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FOREST      I'l^"^ 


IS 


CEYLOT^. 


rOB'MT 


BY    W.    KNIGHTON,    M.A. 


XN    TWO    VOLUMES. 


mmST   AKD   BLACKETT,   P^LISEEUS, 

,3,    GBT^^T   MAULBOUOUGH    STUEEl. 

1854. 


LONDON : 
Printed  by  <chulze  and  Co.,  13  Poland  Street. 


DS 


CONTENTS  OF  VOLUME  I. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ARRIVAL  IN  CEYLON — GALLE  TO  COLOMBO         ...  1 

CHAPTER  H. 

COLOMBO  AND  THE  CINNAMON  GARDENS  .  .  .41 

CHAPTER  HI. 

JOURNEY  TO  KANDY  ,.  .  .  .  .  .81 

CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  ESTATE COFFEE         .  .  .  .  .  .115 

CHAPTER  V. 

A  NATIVE  CHIEF,  MARANDHAN     .  .  .  .133 

CHAPTER  VI. 

A  DAY  AT  A  FRIEND's SNAKES  AND  MONKEYS  .  .160 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Adam's  peak  .  .          .  .          .          .  .215 


a2 


4    f^a(i^'\.ji'u.i><*<J 


IV  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
A  planter's  party         ......     266 

CHAPTER  IX. 

SPORTI>{G — ELKS  AND  ELEPHANTS  ....       294 

CHAPTER  X. 

THE  PAKSEES — ZOROASTER     .....   319 

CHAPTER  XI. 

HORMANJEE  .......        337 


APPENDIX. 

THE  REIGN  OF  PKACKKAMA  THE  GREAT  .  .  .        390 


PREFACE. 


In  journeying  through  a  desert  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  lingers  with  interest  and  pleasure  upon 
the  oasis  he  has  left,  and  which  he  is  not  again 
likely  to  revisit ;  and  so,  in  the  life  of  every  man, 
there  is  probably  some  period  of  shorter  or  longer 
duration  on  which  the  memory,  in  subsequent 
years,  delights  to  dwell.  Of  such  a  character  to 
the  author  was  his  residence  in  Ceylon. 

During  four  years  he  lived  in  that  interesting 
island   as  a  Coffee-planter  and  the  Editor  of  a 


VI  PREFACE. 

newspaper,  and  those  four  years  were  so  filled 
witli  incident,  with  employment,  with  variety  and 
adventure,  that,  despite  the  pecuniary  losses  sus- 
tained in  a  ruinous  speculation,  they  have  ever 
since  afforded  him  ample  and  pleasing  themes  for 
reflection. 

In  the  following  pages  it  has  been  his  aim 
to  give  an  interesting,  and,  at  the  same  time,  a 
truthful  picture  of  jungle  Hfe — such  a  picture  as 
may  bring  it  before  the  mind  of  the  European 
reader  without  exaggeration  or  false  glitter.  The 
scenes  described  and  the  incidents  recorded  are 
such  as  every  resident  in  the  East  will  acknow- 
ledge to  be  common  and  usual  to  a  life  spent 
in  the  recesses  of  an  Oriental  forest.  •  In  such  a 
life,  scenery,  inhabitants,  costume,  and  charac- 
teristics are  so  different  from  those  to  wdiich  the 
novice  has  been  accustomed  in  his  European 
home,  that  they  have  for  him  at  first  all  the 
effect  of  enchantment.  It  was  the  author's  lot  to 
return  from  the  East  before  this  fresh  feeling  of 


PKEFACK.  Vll 

pleased  surprise  had  been  quite  removed — before 
the  novel  charm  of  Oriental  life  had  worn  off,  to 
give  place  to  satiety  and  monotony. 

The  lives  of  a  Parsee  and  of  a  Kandian  chief — 
which  will  be  found,  the  one  at.  the  conclusion  of 
the  first,  the  other  near  the  end  of  the  second, 
volume — are  intended  to  show  how  strangely  the 
old  life  of  the  East,  with  its  antiquated  habits 
and  forms  of  thought,  is  influenced  by  the  new 
hfe  of  the  progressive  West — busy,  busthng,  and 
innovating.  These  accounts  are  founded  upon 
facts  related  to  the  author  by  Parsees  and  Bud- 
hists.  Hormanjee  and  Marandlian,  indeed,  are 
fictitious  names,  but  such  men  have  lived,  and  are 
living,  in.  India  and  Ceylon ;  nor  are  the  events 
recorded  of  them  more  extraordinary  than  those 
which,  for  the  last  fifty  years,  have  been  con- 
stantly occurring,  wherever  Eastern  and  Western 
races  have  been  brought  into  collision — a  collision 
as  much  of  souls  as  of  bodies. 


Vlll  PREFACE. 


There  is  something  inexpressibly  pleasing  in 
thus  minutely  recalling  some  of  the  happiest 
passages  of  one's  early  life,  particularly  when  the 
strong  light  of  reality  has  been  mellowed  into  a 
twiUght  glow  by  the  lapse  of  a  few  intervening 
years ;  so  that  if  the  reader  receive  but  a  tithe 
of  the  pleasure  in  its  perusal  which  the  author 
has  obtained  from  the  compilation  of  this  work, 
the  labour  of  both  will  have  been  amply  re- 
munerative. 

London,  November,  1853. 


FOREST    LIFE 


C  E  T  L  0  K 


CHAPTEE  I. 

ARRIVAL  IN  CEYLON— GALLE  TO  COLOMBO. 

"  I  would  entreat  thy  company 
To  see  the  wonders  of  the  world  abroad." 

Two  Gentlemen  of  Verona,  act  i.,  so.  1. 

I  WAS  leaning  over  the  side  of  the  good  ship, 
Parsee,  watching  a  nautilus  hoisting  sail,  and 
steering  its  tiny  shell  over  the  ocean,  when  the 
Captain,  who  had  been  as  usual  peering  through 
a  telescope,  muttered  to  the  chief  officer,  "  0 
yes,  it's  very  plain.     I  see  it  distinctly." 

"  See  what  ?"    I  asked. 

"  Ceylon,"  said  he ;  "I  told  you  we  should 
see  it  to-day." 

He  handed  me  the  telescope — a  group  of  pas- 

VOL.  I.  B 


2  LOOKIXG  OUT  FOR  LAND. 

sengers,  attracted  by  the  interesting  informa- 
tion, surrounded  us,  some  armed  with,  glasses 
of  their  own,  others  eagerly  awaiting  a  loan  of 
one.  I  strained  my  eyes  ;  I  looked  intently  in 
the  direction  indicated ;  I  readjusted  the  glass, 
and  wiped  the  lenses ;  I  looked  again  as  ear- 
nestly as  if  some  important  result  depended  on 
the  issue,  but,  in  vain ;  I  saw  no  Ceylon : 
other  passengers  were  equally  unsuccessful. 
One  tall  j^^ellow-haired  man,  that  prided  himself 
on  his  nautical  dress  and  knowledge,  declared 
he  did,  but  no  one  ever  minded  what  he  said. 

"  You  don't  see  it,"  said  the  Captain,  "  that's 
strange — it's  very  distinct — -just  on  the  horizon, 
by  the  end  of  the  jib-boom  —  look  again." 
"  Keep  her  three  points  off,"  said  he  to  the 
steersman,  as  he  walked  away. 

I  looked  again,  but  there  was  the  same  im- 
penetrable haze  on  the  horizon — everything 
misty  and  obscure. 

"  Very  distinct  indeed,"  said  the  chief  officer, 
as  he  too  walked  away. 

The  sun  was  shining  as  fiercely  as  the  sun  only 
can  shine  towards  the  end  of  May  at  the  Equa- 
tor. We  were  all  griUing — the  boards  of  the 
ship  hot — the  pitch  and  tar  clammy  on  the  ropes, 
and  in  the  oakum  between  the  planks  of  the  deck 


LOOKING  OUT   FOR   LAND.  3 

— ^the  awning  scorching — the  air  agitated  into 
the  faintest  possible  wind,  dry  and  stifling — 
whilst  an  incessant  drop,  drop,  drop,  coursing 
each  other  from  the  forehead  to  the  neck,  plainly 
proved  that  there  was  still  moisture  left  in  us. 

"  "We  must  see  it,"  resolved  the  passengers, 
and  away  we  went  in  a  body,  into  the  broiling 
sunsliine,  to  the  fore-part  of  the  ship.  The  tall 
man  with  the  yellow  hair,  smiled  at  our  want 
of  nautical  vision,  and  followed  us — the  ladies, 
one  by  one,  threw  handkerchiefs  and  veils  over 
theu'  necks,  and  came  too. 

"  This  is  much  better,"  we  all  exclaimed,  as 
we  poised  our  glasses,  like  rifles,  some  on  the 
bulwarks,  some  on  the  ropes,  and  looked  in- 
tently. Still  it  was  no  use  !  not  a  hill  the  size 
of  a  grain  of  sand  could  we  discern  on  the  hori- 
zon, close  by  the  jib-boom  or  elsewhere — all  was 
haziness  and  impenetrable  gloom  ahead,  watery- 
looking  decidedly,  but,  to  our  unpractised  eyes, 
far  from  land-looking.  The  ladies  tried.  One 
lad}^  thought  she  discerned  something. 

"  Bravo,"  said  the  tall  yellow-haired  man,  in 
ecstacy,  "  you  see  it.  I  thought  you  would,  as 
I  placed  the  glass." 

She  looked  again.  "  Why,  bless  me,"  said  she, 
"  that's  the  end  of  a  stick,  of  that  stick  there 

b2 


4  LOOKING  OUT  FOR  LAND. 

with  the  sail  tied  to  it — the  jib — -jib,  what  do 
you  call  it?" 

It  was  tantalizing  to  know  that  the  glorious 
island  was  right  ahead,  visible  to  the  eye  of  the 
Captain,  the  chief  officer,  and  our  tall  yellow- 
haired  friend,  and  that  we  could  not  even 
faintly  discern  it.  Yet  so  it  was,  and  so  it 
continued  to  be  all  that  day.  With  heroic  per- 
severance we  combated  the  sun  and  the  heat, 
again  and  again,  but  all  to  no  purpose — at  last 
coming  to  the  conclusion  that  imagination  had 
a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  matter,  and  that 
the  Captain,  the  chief  officer,  and  the  yellow- 
haired  man,  knew  the  land  ought  to  be  there, 
and  therefore  they  saw  it. 

Even  during  the  night,  before  we  went  to 
bed — a  clear  star-light  night,  without  a  moon — 
we  gazed  intently  in  the  direction  indicated,  as 
if  then,  without  glass  or  sun,  we  might  per- 
chance succeed  in  catching  a  ghmpse  of  the 
wished-for  island.  Those  only  who  have  spent 
four  monotonous  months  on  the  ocean,  without 
touching  at  a  single  port,  as  was  our  case,  can 
realize  to  themselves  the  eagerness  with  which 
the  weary  passengers  look  out  for  land.  And 
Ceylon  too !  such  an  island  of  mysterious  in- 
terest and  beauty — "  its  breezes,  perfumes ;   its 


SIGNAL   FOR  PILOT.  5 

forests,  the  rarest  and  clioicest  trees;  its  peb- 
bles, gems,"  as  a  flowery  writer  describes  it. 
Only  two  of  us  had  ever  been  there  before — the 
only  two  that  seemed  to  know  nothing  of  the 
island  indeed,  for  all  the  others  had  read  of 
it,  had  talked  of  it,  had  studied  it ;  they,  on  the 
other  hand,  thought  they  should  have  enough 
of  it  when  they  got  there,  as  had  been  the  case 
before,  and  were  therefore  but  too  anxious  to 
banish  it  from  their  thoughts. 

The  next  morning  the  line  of  hills  on  the 
horizon,  although  still  distant,  was  near  enough 
to  be  distinctly  seen  by  the  naked  eye — ^the  sea 
had  lost  much  of  its  deep  blue  shade,  and  was 
more  greenish  and  dull,  even  the  sun  did  not 
appear  to  shine  so  brightly  to  those  whose 
thoughts  were  drawn  off  from  a  contemplation 
of  him,  and  fixed  on  the  island,  on  which  we 
soon  hoped  to  enjoy  liberty  and  the  delights  of 
shore,  after  we  had  escaped  from  the  imprison- 
ment of  our  floating  castle. 

The  Par  see  was  bound  for  Point  de  Galle, 
on  the  south-western  coast  of  Ceylon,  and  it 
was  not  until  the  following  morning,  that  we 
neared  the  harbour  sufficiently  to  fire  off  a  gun 
as  a  signal  for  a  pilot ;  for,  open  and  safe  as 
the  bay  looks,  it  is  filled  with  sunken  rocks 


6  PILOT   BOAT. 

and  hidden  dangers  of  all  kinds.  The  - 
line  of  green  vegetation  which  fringed  the  si 
consisting  entirely  of  cocoa-nut  trees,  contrast  ^ 
beautifully  with  the  wliite  foam  of  the  sea  as 
broke  impetuously  on  the  rocks,  wliilst,  fai 
away  in  the  harbour,  masses  of  white  and  red, 
without  apparent  order  or  regularity,  indicated 
the  to\\ai.  Above  all  rose  the  eternal  hiUs, 
stretching  away  liigher  and  higher  into  the 
distance,  and  ending  in  irregular,  hazy  lines  of 
considerable  elevation,  particularly  to  the  north, 
where  Adam's  Peak  was  pointed  out  to  us — by 
far  the  most  celebrated  of  Ceylonese  mountains. 
We  fired  another  gun — the  loud  booming 
report  coming  back  to  us  from  the  shore,  as  if 
the  genius  of  the  place  resented  our  intrusion 
and  the  noise — and,  as  the  Captain  swept  the 
harbour  Avitli  his  glass,  he  descried  a  boat  pull- 
ing towards  us,  and  was  satisfied.  I  shaU 
never  forget  the  impression  made  upon  me  by 
that  boat  and  its  occupants,  as  it  slowly  came 
nearer  and  nearer  to  the  huge  vessel.  About 
the  boat  itself  there  was,  perhaps,  notliing  that, 
in  any  other  place,  would  have  much  attracted 
my  attention ;  but  when  I  compared  it  with 
the  unclad,  attenuated  individuals  that  occupied 
it,  it  seemed  to  me  the  widest  and  deepest  boat, 


APPEARANCE   OF   ITS  CREW.  7 

for'  s  length,  I  had  ever  seen.  In  England, 
b]  '  associates  the  idea  of  stout  frames,  well 
r  >apped  up,  glazed  hats,  and  groggy -looking 
aces,  with  a  pilot-boat,  or  any  other,  in  fact, 
that  makes  its  way  at  all  into  the  sea.  To  my 
unsophisticated  eyes,  the  crew  of  this  boat 
appeared  to  be  tame  monkeys.  So  completely 
was  my  conception  of  humanity  mixed  up  with 
clothes  and  white  or  black  skins,  that  it  was, 
for  a  time,  impossible  for  me  to  realise  to  my- 
self the  idea  that  these  gibbering,  long-armed, 
brown,  naked  animals  were  fellow-creatures. 
Even  now,  after  having  had  many  years'  ex- 
perience of  the  East,  I  still  believe  that  more 
unfavourable  specimens  of  the  natives  of  Ceylon 
could  scarcely  have  been  met  with  than  those 
in  that  boat.  Tliree  of  them  were  old  men, 
their  ribs  too  distinguishable  through  their 
leather-like  skin,  their  arms  dry  and  slirivelled ; 
yet  their  advanced  age  was  not  to  be  seen  at 
once  —  their  long,  bony,  and  muscular  arms, 
deprived  of  every  particle  of  fat ;  their  fingers 
rendered  remarkable  by  the  white  nails  at  the 
tips ;  the  palms  of  their  hands  white  from  con- 
stant labour;  and  the  contrast  between  their 
brown,  shrivelled-up,  wrinkled  skins,  and  the 
scanty  white  or  blue  cloth  which  they  wore 
round  their  loins,  all  formed  a  picture  so  like 


PORTUGUESE   PILOT, 


that  which  a  party  of  tamed  monkeys  would 
present,  that  it  was  not  without  disgust  I  gazed 
at  them  —  disgust,  mingled  with  something 
of  indignation,  that  these  animals  should  be  of 
the  same  species  as  myself.  Nor  did  the  griz- 
zled beards,  and  the  bare,  shaggy  heads,  from 
which  they  had  removed  then-  straw  fisher- 
men's hats,  tend  to  improve  the  picture,  or 
make  them  more  human-hke.  My  feehngs 
were  shared  by  my  companions,  and,  as  we 
muttered  to  each  other,  "  These  are  the 
natives,"  we  could  not  help  wondering  how 
humanity  could  degenerate  into  such  figures ; 
forgetting  that  the  want  of  dress  and  difierence 
of  colour  were  the  only  real  points  of  contrast 
between  them  and  similar  specimens  of  our  own 
countrymen. 

Our  Portuguese  pilot  interested  us  much ; 
he  was  dressed  in  a  neat  nautical  uniform;  a 
blue  jacket,  tightly  buttoned  up,  white  unmen- 
tionables, and  an  enormous  straw  hat  that  con- 
trasted oddly  with  the  sHght  form  wliicli  it 
crowned — a  form  which,  although  far  from  tall, 
appeared  to  be  so,  in  consequence  of  its  extreme 
spareness ;  his  face  and  hands  were  much  darker 
than  those  of  the  natives ;  but,  strange  to  say, 
whilst  we  were  astounded  by  the  dusky  brown 
skins  of  his  crew,  we  saw  nothing  wonderful  in 


SINGHALESE   CANOE.  9 

the  black  one  of  the  pilot ;  so  apt  are  we  to 
take  the  accustomed  for  the  natural,  the  unac- 
customed and  strange  for  the  unnatural. 

The  anchor  had  scarcely  been  dropped  ere  we 
were  surrounded  by  a  little  fleet  of  boats  of  the 
most  heterogeneous  characters.  The  majority 
of- them  had  the  curious  "outrigger,"  peculiar 
to  Ceylon  and  some  of  the  Pacific  Islands.  A 
hollowed  trunk  forms  the  canoe-proper,  and, 
from  one  side  of  it,  project  two  or  three  beams, 
to  the  end  of  which  is  attached  a  solid  block  of 
the  shape  of  the  canoe  itself,  but  considerably 
smaller.  This  contrivance  prevents  the  boat 
from  upsetting,  and  as  the  outrigger,  as  it  is 
called,  is  always  of  a  light,  buoyant  wood,  even 
should  the  canoe  fill  with  water,  the  conse- 
quences are  not  likely  to  be  serious.  The 
occupants  were  not  less  strange  and  new  to  us 
than  were  the  spider-like  machines  which  they 
guided  so  skilfully.  The  long  hau*  tied  up  on 
the  back  of  the  head,  with  a  high  tortoise-sheU 
comb  stuck  into  it,  the  petticoats — scanty  though 
they  were — and  the  small  feet  and  hands,  were 
all  things  we  were  so  much  accustomed  to  asso- 
ciate with  the  idea  of  the  fairer  sex,  that  there 
was  something  repulsive  in  seeing  them  belong 
to  fellows  with  huge  black  beards  and  mous- 

B  3 


10  DEESS  OF  THE   SINGHALESE. 

taches;  wliilst,  to  our  wondering  eyes,  there 
seemed  no  other  difference  between  the  men 
and  women  than  the  presence  or  absence  of  the 
beard.     True,  one  becomes  famiharised  to  these 
things  after  a  time  ;  but  I  do  not  think  any  one 
can  first  witness  them  without  a  sentiment  of 
disgust — so  utterly  incongruous  do  the  long 
twisted  hair,  with  the  crowning  comb,  appear 
to  be  with  the  hirsute  and  unshaven  faces.    But 
these  were  the  Singhalese-proper  alone.    There 
were,  besides,  several  Moors,  more  man-hke  in 
their  habihments  and  character,  and  infinitely 
more  dangerous  to  the  purse  of  the  newly-ar- 
rived European,  or  "  Griffin,"  as  he  is  elegantly 
styled.     The  small  white  cap  stuck  on  the  very 
top  of  his  shaven  crown,  gives  the  Moorman 
of  Ceylon  and  the  Southern  Indian  coast  quite 
a  distinctive  character,  which  is  rendered  more 
marked  by  the  ample  volume  of  the  cloth  girdle, 
worn  round  his  waist,  and  in  which  he  keeps 
his  money,  his  accounts,  his  writing  materials, 
and,  very  often,  liis  stock  in  trade  too. 

Om"  decks  soon  presented  a  strange  appear- 
ance. Singhalese  and  Moormen  having  ob- 
tained the  Captain's  permission  to  come  on 
board,  were  wandering  about  to  effect  sales  of 
their  various  wares,  oddly  contrasting  with  the 


Moormen's  jewels.  11 

sun-burnt  countenances  and  square  forms  of  tlie 
sailors,  forms  with  whicli  our  long  voyage  had 
made  us  so  intimately  acquainted.  The  scraps 
of  English  the  Asiatics  had  picked  up,  and  of 
whicli  they  now  made  their  utmost  use,  rose 
shrilly  above  the  din  of  ropes  being  coiled  up, 
sails  furled,  hatches  opening,  chains  rattling, 
and  all  the  other  usual  concomitants  of  a  ship's 
arrival  in  port.  The  Moormen,  for  the  most 
part,  had  "jewels,"  toys,  ornaments,  and  knick- 
knacks  of  various  kinds  for  sale.  People  natu- 
rally expect  to  find  jewels  in  an  island  so  cele- 
brated for  them,  from  the  time  of  Plin}^*  to  the 
present  day.  As  the  wily  Asiatic  produces  a 
little  bundle  from  his  ample  girdle,  carefully 
wrapped  up  in  man}?-  folds,  and,  after  a  time, 
exhibits,  imbedded  m  the  downiest  cotton, 
some  sparkling  particles,  whispering  the  im- 
posing name  "diamonds,"  the  European  feels 
as  if  it  would  be  folly  to  lose  the  cliance — he 
is  a  young  officer  going  home  from  Calcutta 
or  Madras,  or  an  enterprising  traveller  from 
China  or  Singapore — ^there  are  sisters,  cousins, 
and  fair  flames  afar  ofi",  awaiting  presents,  and 
he  thinks  if  he  can  get  the  whole  quantity  for 
a  trifle,  it  will  be  very  hard  indeed  if  there  be 

*  Vid.  Hist.  Nat.  vi.  22. 


12  ^  ASIATIC   CRAFT. 

no  real  ones,  however  small,  amongst  tliem; 
and  so  he  makes  an  offer — he  is  almost  ashamed 
to  make  it,  so  small  an  offer  for  so  valuable  a 
collection.  The  crafty  Asiatic  grins,  laughs 
outright,  but  submissively,  at  the  sum  named, 
and  commences  to  refold  his  store,  glancing 
sideways  at  the  victim  to  see  if  the  laugh  has 
not  moved  him,  and  then  offers  the  collection 
for  double  liis  bid.  John  Bull  often  bites  at 
this — he  has  been  but  nibbhng  before — and 
exclaiming,  "Well,  it  is  but  a  trifle  after  all," 
pulls  out  his  purse.  Should  he  still  continue 
immovable,  however,  he  will  have  them  at  his 
own  price,  for  Moorman  protests  he  must  sell 
them  to  get  a  little  bread  for  himself  and  his 
star^dng  children,  although  they  cost  him  so 
much  more.  But  what  does  Jolin  find  them  to 
be  when  he  gets  home  ?  The  following  inci- 
dent will  show — a  true  incident,  well  known 
to  most  of  the  residents  at  Point  de  Galle : — 

Mr.  E,.,  an  English  merchant  there,  had 
imported  some  coloured  glass.  Several  panes 
were  smashed  in  the  landing,  and  all  the 
broken  pieces  were  thrown  into  an  empty 
barrel  in  his  warehouse.  There  they  lay  un- 
heeded for  a  time,  until  Zambo,  a  well-known 
Moorman,  made   his   salaam   to   Mr.  E.  one 


GLASS   DIAMONDS.  13 

morning,  just  as  he  had  arrived  at  home  after 
his  matutinal  ride. 

"  Well,  Zambo,"  said  the  Englishman,  *'  how 
do  you  do  ?     What  brings  you  so  early  ?" 

"  You  -  have  -  got  -  the  -  broke  -  up-glass-in-your- 
godowns,-Saar,"  said  Zambo. 

"Broken  glass,"  said  the  merchant,  musing. 
"Yes,  yes,  there  were  several  panes  of  that 
coloured  glass  broken.  I  suppose  they're  there 
stiU." 

"  Your  -  coohes  -  do  -  steal  -  it  -  every  -  day  - 1 
know,"  said  Zambo  mysteriously.  "  I-will-buy- 
it-all-at-once-now. ' ' 

Grlad  to  get  so  worthless  an  article  ofF  his 
hands,  Mr.  E.  readily  consented  to  Zambo's 
proposal,  and  agreed  to  let  him  have  the  glass 
at  his  own.  price. 

"  And  now,  Zambo,"  said  the  Enghshman, 
"may  I  ask  what  you  want  with  the  glass ?" 

Zambo  looked  round  to  see  that  there  was 
no  one  witliin  hearing-distance,  and  then, 
stretching  his  hairy  chin  forwards,  said  "  You- 
no-tell- though  ?" 

"TeU,"  said  the  merchant,  "no,  I  don't 
want  to  tell  anything.  Wliat  do  you  want 
this  glass  for?" 

"To-make-diamonds-for-steamer-passengers," 


14  LANDING  AT  CEYLON. 

said  Zambo,  his  small  grey  eyes  twinkling  with 
cunning. 

No  one  need  ask,  after  having  heard  that, 
what  our  friend  Jolin  wiU  find  his  diamonds, 
emeralds,  and  garnets  to  he,  when  he  reaches 
the  paternal  roof. 

This  sort  of  trade  is  almost  entirely  confined 
to  the  Moormen,  by  far  the  most  expert  retail 
dealers  in  the  island.  I  was  not  disposed  on 
landing  to  encumber  myself  with  jewellery, 
wisely  consideruig  that  if  precious  stones  were 
so  common  in  Ceylon,  I  should  have  innumer- 
able opportmiities  of  collecting  them  whilst 
living  in  the  jungle. 

The  scene  wliich  presented  itself  on  landing 
had  all  the  interest  and  freshness  of  unwonted 
novelty  for  us.  Accustomed,  as  I  had  been, 
previously  to  an  English  life,  diversified  by 
two  hurried  trips  to  the  Continent  alone,  there 
was  nothing  in  the  reminiscences  TNdth  which 
my  memory  was  stored  to  detract  from  the 
novelty  of  the  picture  that  now  spread  widely 
around  us  on  every  side.  The  small  huts  of 
mud,  with  their  cocoa-nut  leaf  thatch;  the 
wicker-work  trays  exhibiting  heaps  of  chillies 
or  other  equally  piquant  stimulants ;  the 
amazing  variety  of  fruit  common  to  all  tro- 


APPEARANCE   OF   NATIVES.  15 

pical  countries ;  the  strange  costume  of  the 
women  and  still  stranger  of  the  men ;  their 
shrill  voices  as  they  called  upon  the  passers- 
by  to  purchase,  or  loudly  conversed  with  each 
other  across  the  street,  all — men,  women,  and 
children — squatted  on  their  heels  ;  the  fish- 
women,  as  in  all  countries,  most  voluble  of 
tongue,  light-hearted,  and  merry,  exchanging 
badinage  with  the  male  passers-by,  or  making 
their  own  remarks  on  the  pale  faces — aU  was 
new  and  striking,  and  told  us,  with  all  the 
eloquence  of  vision,  that  we  had  left  the  cold 
north  behind,  with  its  frosts  and  snows,  and 
wintry  chui-lishness,  and  brave  battling  with 
a  thousand  evils  that  more  favoured  chmes 
know  nothing  of,  and  that  we  had  reached  a 
land  of  the  sun  where  there  was  food  upon 
every  tree,  and  clothing  was  little  more  than 
an  encumbrance,  where  the  battle  of  life  was 
not  for  existence,  but  for  luxury  and  enjoy- 
ment. 

The  soldiers  seemed  the  only  melancholy 
objects  in  the  bright,  ever-moving  panorama. 
Malays,  with  horsehair  -  like  whiskers  and 
moustaches,  dressed  up  in  the  darkest  and 
most  sombre  green,  the  "Ceylon  Eifles"  as 
they  axe  called,  stood  at  their  posts,  or  marched 


16  FORT   AND   BAZAAR. 

or  loitered  about  the  verandah  of  their  guard- 
house, as  if  they  were  only  gloomy  visitants 
upon  the  glorious  island,  but  not  of  it — as  if 
they  felt  that  their  execrable  trade  was  a  thing 
in  which  man  should  not  rejoice,  which  should 
stifle  all  mirth — a  necessary  evil.  It  may  not 
be  so  in  other  parts  of  the  island,  and  I  do  not 
remember  that  the  idea  was  impressed  after- 
wards upon  my  mind,  but  certainly  the  first 
few  specimens  of  the  Ceylon  Rifles  that  we 
saw  loitering  about  the  great  archway  that 
leads  from  the  harbour  into  the  old  Dutch 
fort  suggested  the  idea  of  gloom,  moroseness, 
taciturnity,  and  cruelty  to  our  entire  party. 

The  fort  itself  was  by  no  means  so  interest- 
ing an  object  to  us  as  the  bazaar  that  stretches 
along  the  shore  without  it.  The  kaleidoscopic 
aspect  of  that  strange  scene  was  gone,  and  the 
lines  of  glistening  white  houses,  with  their 
green  or  black  Venetians,  diligently  barri- 
cading them  from  the  sun  and  the  intense 
glare  without,  were  but  poor  substitutes  for 
it.  Arrived  at  the  hotel,  which,  with  very 
questionable  taste,  like  almost  all  the  other 
European  buildings,  is  situated  within  the 
fort,  our  party  separated.  Some,  fatigued 
with  their  walk,  spoke  energetically  of  beef- 


PALANQUIN  CAERIAGE.  17 

steaks  and  pine-apples,  as  they  threw  them- 
selves upon  the  various  couches,  whilst  others, 
of  whom  I  was  one,  ordered  vehicles  to  call 
upon  those  to  whom  they  had  letters  of  intro- 
duction. I  had  but  one  visit  to  pay,  to  a 
merchant  of  whom  I  had  no  personal  know- 
ledge, but  whom  my  uncle,  the  head  of  a  mer- 
cantile house  in  Colombo,  wished  me  particu- 
larly to  become  acquainted  with ;  so,  having 
fii'st  enjoyed  the  luxmy  of  a  glass  of  Allsopp 
or  Bass,  I  made  my  way  into  the  palanquin- 
carriage, — a  conveyance  not  very  disisj^imilar 
from  a  London  cab,  denuded  of  its  coach-box, 
save  that  Venetian  bhnds  take  the  place  of 
the  panelled  sides  and  glass  front — and  was 
soon  rapidly  whirled  along  tlirough  a  few  nar- 
row and  uneven  streets  to  my  destination.  Yet 
although  the  vehicle  was  one  that  not  even  an 
idle  crossing- sweeper  would  turn  to  gaze  after 
in  London,  and  although  the  horse  was  only  a 
respectable  grey  hack,  without  either  pomts  or 
sores,  what  a  sensation  we  should  have  created 
in  the  Strand  or  Eegent  Street,  had  our  course 
lain  there  instead  of  tlirough  Point  de  Galle  ! 
At  the  head  of  the  horse,  and  firmly  grasping 
the  rein  in  one  hand,  whilst  in  the  other  he 
held  a  short  whip,  ran  a  wild  savage-looking 


18  SINGHALESE   DRIVER. 

fellow,  with  a  red  handkerchief  wrapped  round 
his  head,  and  a  scanty  red  cloth  round  his  loins. 
Fast  as  the  horse  could  trot  did  this  Jehu 
scamper  along  by  his  side,  bounding  over  the 
road  with  bare  feet,  his  well-oiled  skin  ghsten- 
ing  in  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun  as  the  moving 
muscles  of  the  back  caught  and  reflected  the 
light.  I  thought  it  was  very  barbarous,  but 
what  could  I  do  ?  it  was  "  the  custom  of  the 
country  "  evidently,  for  there  was  no  coach- 
box on  the  carriage,  and  no  one  seemed  to 
consider  it  strange.  At  length,  as  I  saw  a 
stream  of  perspiration  making  its  way  down 
his  back  between  his  shoulder-blades,  I  shouted 
out  in  English,  a  language  of  which  he  appa- 
rently did  not  understand  a  single  word.  He 
looked  round,  still  running  on  as  before.  I 
cried  out  ^'  stop  "  with  an  energy  that  I  hoped 
would  force  him  to  arrest  his  wild  race.  He 
pointed  with  his  whip  as  he  turned  round,  and 
went  on  more  rapidly  than  ever.  Poor  fellow  ! 
he  evidently  thought  that  I  was  chiding  liim 
for  not  going  fast  enough  instead  of  being 
full  of  benevolence  for  him,  so  he  cut  the 
horse  with  a  skilful  back-hand  stroke  of  the 
short  whip,  and  coursed  on  still  faster.  I  saw 
it  was  no  use  to  attempt  anything  fui-ther,  so 


SINGHALESE   DRIVER.  19 

I  threw  myself  back,  tired  and  hot,  into  the 
carriage,  and  allowed  him  to  do  as  he  pleased. 
I  mentioned  the  matter  to  my  newly-acquired 
friend  on  reaching  his  house,  and  he  smiled, 
assuring  me  that  every  one  went  about  so,  that 
the  natives  were  used  to  it,  and  that  if  I  had 
spoken  the  language  and  told  the  syce  or  horse- 
keeper,  to  get  up  on  the  top  whilst  I  drove,  he 
would  not  have  done  so.  Under  these  circum- 
stances, heartily  as  I  pitied  the  poor  fellow,  I 
interfered  no  further,  and,  in  the  same  vsdld 
style,  we  made  our  way  back  to  the  hotel — 
horse  and  man  rushing  madly  along,  up  one 
street  and  down  another,  over  shingle  and 
gravel  and  a  little  piece  of  good  macadamised 
road,  with  the  same  indifference.  We  passed 
another  veliicle  too,  of  the  same  kind,  similarly 
led,  and,  as  I  felt  assured  from  this,  that  other 
people  were  equally  barbarous,  my  mind  was 
quite  relieved — a  circumstance  that  might  be 
well  moralised,  were  one  ^'  i'  th'  vein,"  or  did 
one  feel  one's  self  equal  to  it. 

We  had  a  very  comfortable  dinner  at  the 
hotel — our  party  having  diminished  to  four, 
of  whom  I  was  the  only  one  intending  to  pro- 
ceed the  following  morning,  by  the  mail  coach, 
to  Colombo.     The  native  servants,  in  spotless 


20  CONTENTMENT. 

white,  petticoats  and  all — proud  that  they  un- 
derstood how  to  wait  at  table — their  black 
beards,  and  large  tortoise-shell  combs  stuck  in 
the  back  of  their  heads,  appearing  to  me  so 
incongruous,  that  I  felt  disposed  to  laugh  every 
time  I  looked  at  them.  Nor  was  it  without  a 
feeling  of  unpleasantness  that  I  saw  my  plate 
handed  about  by  the  dark  fingers — a  transient 
feehng,  which  I  distinctly  remember  having  once 
felt,  but  which  must  very  soon  have  passed  away 
with  use.  After  a  long  voyage,  people  are  not 
disposed  for  some  time  to  be  very  critical  re- 
specting their  meals.  We  found  everything  ex- 
cellent at  our  dinner,  including  the  beef — the 
fact  is,  people  get  so  much  mutton  on  board, 
that,  I  believe,  they  would  willingly  declare 
the  roast  ribs  of  a  sexagenarian  cart-horse  ex- 
quisite after  a  four  months'  voyage — my  sub- 
sequent experience  of  Point  de  Galle  did  not 
lead  me  to  believe  that  anytliing  like  good 
beef  was  ever  to  be  got  there  in  those  days 
(1843),  and  therefore  I  attribute  om^  satisfac- 
tion to  our  position  and  condition.  There 
was  something  so  completely  novel  in  being 
waited  upon  by  the  brown  natives  in  white 
garments;  in  the  open  room  leading  into  an 
equally  open  verandah ;  in  the  lai-ge  fan,  called 


FIRE-FLIES.  21 

a  punkah,  pulled  backwards  and  forwards  by  a 
servant,  to  create  a  cui'rent  of  air  in  the  room — 
there  was  something  so  novel  in  all  this,  that 
one  could  not  be  critical ;  and  soup,  beef,  curry, 
tarts,  and  fruit,  were  all  found  to  be  equally 
excellent  and  palatable,  although  I  have  no 
doubt,  had  the  same  dinner  been  presented  to 
any  one  of  us  a  month  after,  we  should  have 
found  the  soup  bad,  the  tarts  worse,  and  the 
beef  worst  of  all ;  that,  in  fact,  the  cmTy  and 
the  fruits  would  be  pronounced  to  be  the  only 
eatable  things  on  the  table.  Indeed  I  must 
say,  that  notwithstanding  the  variety  of  Indian 
cookery — the  pillaws,  and  coftahs,  and  cabobs, 
and  kitchery  of  the  presidencies — there  is  no 
place  where  better  curries  are  made  than  in 
Ceylon,  and  this  I  say,  not  as  a  griffin  just 
arrived  from  England,  but  as  an  experienced 
quyhy — one  who  knows  Ceylon,  and  who  has 
lived  both  in  Madras  and  Calcutta. 

That  evening  I  first  made  acquaintance  with 
the  fire-flies,  and  was  surprised  and  dehghted 
with  the  appearance  produced  by  numbers  of 
them,  shining  like  so  many  tiny  stars  upon 
a  tree.  The  effect  was  altogether  so  strange 
and  pretty,  rather  than  grand  or  beautiful,  that 
it  looked  far  more  like  an  artificial  one,  pro- 


22  BED   AND   BED-ROOM. 

duced   by  the   handiwork   of  man,   than  the 
simple  operation  of  nature. 

Having  heard  that  the  coach  to  Colombo 
started  at  gun-fire,  or  the  first  faint  dawn  of 
day,  I  retired  early,  requesting  to  be  called  at 
four  o'clock.  The  bed-room  differed  as  much 
from  what  a  bed-room  would  have  been  in 
England,  as  everything  else  in  the  house 
from  their  European  prototypes.  The  object 
in  it  was  to  obtain  air  and  some  slight  de- 
gree of  coolness,  not  to  be  snug  and  com- 
fortable as  one  expects  a  bed-room  to  be  in 
colder  climes.  A  mat  that  crackled  under  the 
feet  covered  the  floor.  The  bed  itself  was  near 
the  middle  of  the  room,  detached  from  the 
wall,  completely  isolated.  Thin  net  curtains 
hung  round  it,  tucked  under  the  mattrass, 
which  bore  no  similarity  at  all  to  a  feather 
bed.  The  feet  were  elevated  upon  curious 
little  blocks,  that  reminded  one  of  extremely- 
small  flower-pots,  with  an  elevation  in  the 
centre  to  support  them,  a  deep  groove  all 
round  which,  was  full  of  water  or  some  other 
fluid.  I  had  no  idea  of  the  use  of  these  stands 
at  the  time,  but  subsequently  found  that  they 
prevented  the  ants  from  making  their  way  into 
the  bed,  and  that  many  other  articles  of  fuini- 


THE   PUNKAH-WALLAH.  23 

ture,  sucli  as  sideboards,  were  similarly  pro- 
tected. Altogether,  as  I  advanced  lamp  in  hand 
into  the  apartment,  it  struck  me  that  there  was 
a  cold,  cheerless,  uncomfortable  look  about  it, 
even  after  having  spent  months  in  the  cabin  of 
a  ship — a  reflection  that  the  oppressive  heat  of 
the  atmosphere  might  have  convinced  me  was 
a  fooKsh  one,  for  the  cooler  such  an  apartment 
could  be  made  the  better.  The  true  model, 
indeed,  of  an  Indian  bed-room,  is  a  large 
empty  apartment,  with  a  bed  in  the  middle, 
surmounted  by  a  fan  or  punkah,  to  be  pulled 
backwards  and  forwards  all  night  by  servants 
employed  for  the  purpose.  In  the  Presidencies 
this  arrangement  is  common — ^the  rope  from 
the  punkah  going  through  the  wall  into  the 
verandah,  where  the  punkah-wallah,  as  he  is 
called,  sits  and  nods — pulling,  however,  as  he 
nods — easy,  though  monotonous  work.  To 
prevent  his  going  to  sleep  over  the  operation — 
an  accident  that  but  too  frequently  happens, 
and  wliich  causes  the  sleeper  within  to  start 
up  bathed  in  perspiration,  and  infuriated  with 
musquitoes — some  benevolent  individual  has 
invented  the  plan  of  perching  punkah-wallah 
upon  a  high  stool,  made  for  the  purpose,  when, 
if  he  goes  to  sleep,  his  balance  must  be  lost, 


24 


EXCESSIVE   HEAT. 


and  he  comes  to  the  ground  with  sufficient  vio- 
lence to  wake  him  were  he  never  so  drowsy. 

I  jumped  into  ni}^  novel  bed  at  Point  de 
Galle  as  yet  innocent  of  the  greatest  plagues  of 
Indian  existence.  The  window,  which  looked 
into  the  verandah,  with  a  garden  beyond,  had 
the  glass  compartments  open  and  the  Venetian 
shutters  closed,  wliilst  the  laths  of  the  Vene- 
tians themselves  were  laid  perfectly  horizontal, 
to  admit,  through  the  interstices,  as  much  air 
as  possible.  As  I  lay,  covered  with  one  flimsy 
sheet,  I  could  see  the  stars  through  the 
window,  peering  brightly  above  the  trees 
without,  and  the  fire-flies  flitting  ceaselessly 
from  leaf  to  leaf,  and  lighting  up  the  dark 
shadows  of  a  dark  moonless  night  with  ever- 
changing  variety.  I  should  have  enjoyed  the 
scene  with  infinitely  more  gusto,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  excessive  heat.  Throwing  ofi"  the 
sheet,  with  wliicli  alone  I  was  covered,  was 
but  a  temporary  relief.  I  tossed  about  from 
side  to  side  to  find  some  cooler  corner,  but  as 
fatigue  threw  me  into  a  short-lived  doze,  the 
stifling  heat  laid  its  hand  heavily  u^^on  me, 
and  I  awoke  with  a  sense  of  oppression  and 
liquefaction  that  was  anything  but  comfortable. 
At    length,    as    I   looked   through   the   open 


arusQuiTOES.  25 

jalousies  of  the  window,  it  struck  me  that  the 
net-curtains  by  which  I  was  surrounded,  thin 
as  they  were,  must  tend  to  increase  the  heat 
considerably,  and  to  prevent  that  circulation  of 
the  cool  night  air  about  my  person,  which  I  so 
much  desired.  I  wonder  they  don't  think  of 
that,  I  thought,  as  I  threw  the  curtains  up 
over  the  roof  of  the  bed, — they  have  much  to 
learn  yet  in  order  to  accommodate  this  Indian 
climate  to  British  constitutions.  The  change 
was  dehghtful ;  the  cool  air  of  the  night  with- 
out was  wafted  insensibly  around  me,  and  I 
dozed  off  into  what  promised  to  be  a  dehghtful 
sleep. 

I  was  awoke  by  a  sharp  stinging  pain  upon 
my  forehead,  accompanied  by  a  similar  sensation 
on  both  my  feet.  I  put  my  hand  to  all  three 
places  successively,  but  could  discover  nothing, 
at  the  same  time  that  a  little  rubbing  on  each 
was  agreeable.  Never  mind,  thought  I,  I  have 
got  rid  of  the  excessive  heat  at  all  events,  I 
shall  soon  be  asleep.  The  quiet  that  now 
reigned  in  the  house,  assured  me  that  the  others 
had  similarly  sought  their  couches,  but,  like 
myself,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  not  to  sleep. 
I  had  scarcely  settled  myself  into  a  new  and 
more  comfortable  position  than  any  I  had  yet 

VOL.  I.  c 


26  MUSQUITOES. 

found — I  had  scarcely  had  time  to  close  my 
eyes,  and  fancy  myself  on  the  high  road  to  a 
sound  slumber — four  o'clock  always  looming  in 
the  distance,  as  the  hour  of  rising — when  I 
felt  a  number  of  similar  sharp  pains  over  various 
parts  of  my  exposed  person,  whilst  a  ringing 
"hum-m"  in  my  ears  told  me  of  formidable 
enemies  I  had  forgotten — the  musquitoes.  In 
getting  rid  of  one  evil  by  raising  the  curtains, 
I  had  induced  another  and  a  more  formi- 
dable one.  True,  I  was  as  yet,  or  rather  I  had 
been,  up  to  this  moment,  ignorant  of  the  ap- 
pearance and  character  of  those  blood-thirsty 
insects,  save  what  I  had  heard  from  others,  but 
their  descriptions  had  made  me  too  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  pecuhar  "hum-m-m,"  in 
which  the  little  wretches  deHght,  to  feel  a 
doubt  as  to  the  nature  of  my  assailants.  The 
more  I  rubbed  the  places  they  had  bitten,  the 
more  they  swelled,  until  I  was  Hterally  covered 
with  small  excrescences,  red  and  pm'ple,  such  as 
a  devoted  attachment  to  the  brandy  bottle  often 
produces  upon  the  nose  of  the  toper ;  and,  what 
was  worse,  each  pimple  itcliing  most  acutely. 
At  length  I  could  stand  it  no  longer.  I  sprung 
from  the  bed,  and  determined  to  seek  a  light. 
I  had,  fortunately  for  my  convenience,  a  small 


MUSQUITOES.  27 

box  of  lucifers  in  my  dressing-case,  and  soon 
lit  the  lamp.  My  first  visit,  lamp  in  hand,  was 
to  the  looking-glass,  in  which  I  discovered  my 
forehead  all  blotched  over  in  the  most  fria"htful 
way.  I  then  went  to  the  bed,  and  as  I  held 
the  light  over  the  pillow,  I  saw  two  of  the 
ugliest-looking  Kttle  monsters  I  had  ever  set 
my  eyes  upon.  "  These  are  musquitoes,"  I 
muttered,  as  I  surveyed  them — gnat-like  in- 
sects, with  swollen  bodies,  curved  up  at  the 
tail.  I  brought  my  hand  down  heavily  upon 
one  of  them,  I  fancy  indeed  he  was  too  full  to 
fly,  and  a  blot  of  blood  upon  the  pillow  marked 
where  he  had  been.  I  felt  glad,  although  I 
knew  but  too  well  whose  blood  it  was,  that  I 
had  thus  scattered;  at  the  same  time  that 
sundry  smarts  upon  my  leg;?  assured  me  that 
many  of  them  had  not  yet  had  enough. 

I  put  down  the  lamp  on  a  chair,  and  then 
jumped  into  bed,  carefully  tucking  the  curtains 
below  the  mattrass  as  I  had  seen  them  at  first, 
preparatory  to  engaging  in  a  general  battue 
against  all  the  musquitoes  that  they  imprisoned. 
I  commenced  by  arming  myself  with  the  pillow, 
and  having  swept  it  round  the  sides  of  the  en- 
closure to  collect  them  all  as  much  as  possible 
into  the  middle,  I  brought  it  down  three  or 

c2 


28  A  COUP-DE-MAIX. 

four  times  with  terrible  energy  upon  the  bed. 
A  sohtary  clehnquent,  however,  was  the  sole  re- 
sult, and  as  I  surveyed  him  with  interest,  others 
attacked  me  in  the  rear,  and  I  was  obhged 
to  renew  operations.  I  found,  after  a  time, 
that  the  pillow  would  not  do — ^my  exertions 
had  thrown  me  into  a  perfect  bath  of  perspira- 
tion, and  only  two  victims  the  result !  so  depo- 
siting the  pillow  in  its  place,  I  proceeded  to 
close  quarters,  first  wrapping  myself  well  up  in 
the  sheet,  and  then  endeavouring  to  squash  my 
adversaries  between  my  open  palms.  What 
other  people  without  must  have  thought  of  the 
various  noises  I  was  making,  if  any  were  hsten- 
iug,  I  did  not  stop  to  inquire,  for  I  was  de- 
lighted to  find  that  my  new  mode  of  procedure 
was  more  successful  than  the  former.  Clap, 
clap,  clap,  went  my  hands,  and  one  after  another 
of  the  assailants  lost  his  life,  until  I  could  find 
no  more  of  them.  I  then  lay  down,  hot, 
weary,  and  exliausted  with  my  recent  energetic 
proceedings,  and,  notwithstanding  the  heat, 
fell  asleep. 

I  had  not  slept  long,  however,  when  I  was 
again  awoke  by  heat  and  musquitoes  combined 
— some  of  the  latter,  I  suppose,  having  made 
their  way  in  subsequently,  or  escaped  my  san- 


SINGHALESE    SERVANT.  29 

guinary  onslauglit.  Again  forsaking  my  bed,  I 
partially  dressed,  and  spent  the  remainder  of 
that  dreadfully  long  night  in  the  verandah. 
Most  heartily  did  I  wish  that  the  coach  left  at 
three  instead  of  five,  but  wishes  were  unavailing, 
and,  for  more  than  three  hours,  I  walked  up  and 
down,  smoking  the  while,  and  listening  to  the 
strange  hum  of  insect  and  reptile  life,  that 
makes  the  night  of  the  tropics  far  noisier  than 
the  day. 

Wlien  it  was  four  o'clock,  I  returned  into 
my  room  to  dress.  I  had  more  than  half  got 
through  my  toilet,  when  a  knock  at  my  door 
informed  me  that  the  servant  who  had  promised 
faithfully  to  wake  me  at  four,  had  just  awoke 
himself.  It  was  then  twenty  minutes  past,  and 
as  my  kind  Mentor  informed  me  it  was  "  plenty 
time  for  master  to  get  up."  I  quite  agreed  with 
him,  informing  him  at  the  same  time  that  I 
had  been  up  since  two  o'clock,  and  was  then  in 
expectation  of  coffee,  not  of  being  called.  In 
ten  minutes  the  coffee  made  its  appearance,  and 
as  the  old,  grey-bearded  "  boy,"  (for,  strange  to 
say,  they  call  all  servants  of  all  ages,  hoys  in 
Ceylon,)  informed  me  that  the  coach  office  was 
not  five  minutes'  walk  distant,  I  had  another 
long  wait  in  the  verandah,  feeling  considerably 


30  COLOMBO   MAIL. 

refreshed,  however,  by  the  abhition  and  the 
coffee.  At  length  it  was  ten  minutes  to  five, 
and,  with  a  coohe  or  porter  carrying  my  port- 
manteau, I  bid  adieu  to  the  "  hotel,"  and  com- 
menced my  journey  to  Colombo — my  heavier 
luggage  having  been  left  in  the  Parsee,  which 
was  to  proceed  to  Colombo  in  a  few  days. 

The  moon  had  risen  an  hour  before,  and  its 
light,  with  that  of  the  stars,  was  sufficient  to 
enable  us  to  distinguish  objects  faintly  as  we 
went  along.  At  length  we  arrived  opposite  a 
large  door,  with  two  stunted  trees  on  each  side. 
"  Here,  Saar,"  said  the  coolie,  as  he  put  my 
portmanteau  down  against  one  of  the  trees, 
exhausting  in  those  two  words  nearly  his  whole 
available  stock  of  English.  I  looked  around, 
but  saw  no  signs  of  coach  or  horses,  of  people 
or  bustle.  All  was  still.  The  coolie  has  made 
some  mistake,  thought  I,  and  can't  speak 
Enghsli.  Perhaps  the  coach  starts  from  some 
other  place. 

"  Wliere's  the  coach  that  goes  to  Colombo  ?" 
shouted  I  in  his  ear,  hoping,  by  the  loudness 
with  which  I  spoke,  to  make  him  comprehend 
me. 

"  Here,  Saar,"  said  he  again,  as  he  coolly 
proceeded,  having  found  a  large  stone,  to  ham 


COLOMBO   MAIL.  31 

mer  it  on  the  iron  liinges  of  the  door,  shouting 
out  some  words  all  the  time,  that  seemed  in- 
variably to  end  with  "  man  gee,"  in  a  singing 
tone.  At  length  the  violent  knocking,  and  no 
less  violent  shouting,  elicited  a  reply  from 
within.  The  coolie  turned  to  me  with  a  grin, 
as  if  he  would  have  said,  "  You  see."  I  so 
understood  his  look  at  all  events,  and  replied, 
"I  see  nothing  extraordinary  in  your  waking 
somebody  with  all  that.  But  where's  the  mail- 
coach  ?" 

"  Here,  Saar,"  shouted  he  again,  grinning; 
and  again  commencing  the  vociferation  of  the 
Singhalese  sentence  invariably  ending  in  "  man 
gee."  At  length  the  door  opened,  and  a  huge, 
half-dressed,  negro-like  Portuguese  stood  before 
us.  His  black  hair  stood  up  straight  from  his 
head  like  the  bristles  of  a  hedgehog,  and  added 
some  inches  to  his  height,  which  was  in  itself 
great. 

"  Does  the  coach  start  from  here  ?"  I  asked, 
delighted  to  see  a  pair  of  pantaloons  under 
such  circumstances. 

"  Yes,  Sir,"  he  replied,  squeakingly ;  "  in 
five  minutes  it  will  be  off." 

"  0,  then  it  only  calls  here,"  I  observed. 

"  No,  Sir,"  said  he,  in  a  half-feminine,  half- 


32  DIFFICULTY   OF   STARTING 

boyish  voice,  tliat  contrasted  strangely  witli  his 
uncouth  figure — "  No,  Sir,  it  starts  from  here  ;" 
and,  as  he  said  so,  T  saw  a  strange  waggon-Hke 
vehicle  lumbering  up  to  us,  drawn  by  four 
coohes.  This  was  the  mail-coach — a  miserable 
cart,  with  canvas  curtains  hanging  down  on 
either  side,  and  room  inside  for  six  at  the 
utmost,  whilst  the  driver  might  possibly  ac- 
commodate one  or  two  on  his  box  !  A  flat 
roof  covered  it,  whence  depended  the  aforesaid 
canvas  curtains,  and  on  which  I  suppose  lug- 
gage is  sometimes  packed.  Two  horses,  that 
did  not  look  as  if  they  were  particularly  dis- 
posed to  go  on,  were  speedily  harnessed,  and 
after  another  delay  of  five  minutes  for  the 
coachman,  also  a  Portuguese,  preparations  were 
made  for  starting.  It  took  the  united  force  of 
the  establishment — coachman,  grooms,  coolies, 
and  all — to  set  the  macliine  in  motion.  Some 
turned  round  the  wheels,  others  belaboured  the 
horses,  others  pushed  from  behind,  whilst  two 
pulled  vigorously  at  the  horses'  heads  and  ears. 
At  length  we  were  fairly  ofl" — I  the  only  pas- 
senger, my  leathern  portmanteau  constituting 
all  the  luggage !  It  was  then  a  quarter  past 
five ;  when  they  would  have  started,  had  I  not 
been  going,  I  cannot  conjecture.     We  rattled 


THE  COLOMBO  MAIL.  33 

through  the  streets  at  a  capital  pace ;  but  to 
my  surprise,  as  I  looked  round  I  found  our 
vehicle  literally  covered  with  natives  holding 
on,  on  all  sides,  hke  shell-fish  stuck  to  a  ship's 
bottom.  Even  my  friend  the  negro-like  Por- 
tuguese, in  the  same  elegant  deshabille,  was 
sitting  composedly  on  the  step  by  which  I  had 
mounted.  I  thought  it  very  odd,  but  for  a 
time  said  nothing.  At  length  I  asked  my 
mop-headed  companion  whether  they  were  all 
coming  to  Colombo.  "  No,  Sir,"  he  squeaked 
out;  "but  there's  another  start  at  the  post- 
office."  That  explained  it,  and  I  was  satisfied. 
Arrived  at  the  post-office,  we  stopped.  There 
was  a  man  in  the  verandah  to  be  woke  first, 
which  took  some  time.  He  then  proceeded  to 
wake  those  within,  by  a  repetition  of  the  same 
process  my  coolie  had  employed  to  wake  the 
"  mail-coach  office."  There  was  the  same  ham- 
mering of  a  stone  on  the  iron-work  of  the  door 
— 'the  same  vociferation  of  sentences  ending  in 
"man  gee" — the  same  intervals  of  repose  and 
renewals  of  the  assault,  and  with  the  same  re- 
sult, A  voice  answered  from  witliin  ;  the  door 
was  slowly  opened;  and  at  length  the  mail- 
bags  were  deposited  in  Her   Majesty's  mail- 

c  3 


34  SECOXD   STAKT. 

coach.  I  have  heard  that  there  are  many 
strange  veliicles  employed  by  the  post-office  in 
England  to  convey  letters  about,  mcluding 
hand  and  wheel-barrows,  with  the  royal  arms 
on  them ;  but  I  do  not  think  that  in  all  Her 
Majesty's  dominions  there  was  a  conveyance  in 
1843  that  would  have  more  surprised  the  royal 
lady  herself,  had  she  seen  it  starting,  than  the 
Galle  and  Colombo  mail-coach. 

Portuguese  mop-head  was  right.  There  was 
another  start ;  and  again  was  the  enthe  force 
of  the  mail  coach-office  put  in  requisition — aided 
by  sundry  volunteers  jfrom  the  post-office — to 
set  us  in  motion,  and  again  with  the  same 
triumphant  success.  We  rattled  under  the 
gate  of  the  Fort,  and  were  gone.  I  looked 
round,  but  grooms,  Portuguese,  and  coolies 
had  disappeared.  Their  morning's  duty  was 
performed,  and  they  were  doubtless  retiring  to 
sleep  oif  the  fatigue  of  the  exertion.  What 
amused  me  most  was  the  perfect  gravity  with 
which  the  whole  operation  was  gone  through. 
There  was  no  smihng,  no  loud  laughter,  no 
jest  or  answer.  It  seemed  to  be  regarded  by 
all  as  far  other  than  a  laughing  matter.  The 
scientific  precision  with  which  the  horses'  ears 


KOAD   TO  COLOMBO,  35 

were  grasped — the  grim  determined  air  with 
which  the  spokes  of  the  wheels  were  handled — 
the  dogmatic  sternness  with  which  the  horses 
were  flagellated — all  showed  that  it  was  an 
accustomed  affair,  too  common  to  be  at  all 
amusing — rather,  indeed,  the  reverse  to  all 
parties. 

The  Portuguese  coachman,  a  native  groom, 
and  myself  constituted  the  entire  occupants  of 
the  vehicle ;  and  right  glad  was  I  when  I  saw 
the  sun  rising  over  the  forests  and  hills  on  our 
right,  as  we  made  our  way  rapidly  along  a 
beautiful  road,  hned  on  either  side  by  masses 
of  cocoa-nut  trees — their  graceful  stems  and 
the  dehcate  tracery  of  their  foliage  becoming 
every  moment  more  distinct.  Occasionally  we 
were  near  the  sea,  its  waves  breaking  into  foam 
on  one  side,  wliilst  thick  vegetation  bounded 
our  path  upon  the  other. 

The  road,  throughout  the  entire  distance, 
was  beautifully  variegated  by  wild  and  culti- 
vated scenery,  and  yet  it  was  completely  level, 
scarcely  a  hill  to  compare  even  with  Ludgate, 
throughout  the  entire  journey  of  more  than 
seventy  miles.  Occasionally  we  caught  glimpses 
of  fishing-boats  making  their  way  out  to  sea 
or  returning  to  shore,  whilst  on  land,  as  we 


36  BUDHIST   PRIEST. 

passed  tlie  various  villages,  the  people  seemed 
to  be  employed  principally  in  tlie  expressing  of 
oil  from  tlie  cocoa-nut  by  a  rude  species  of 
machinery,  turned  by  the  most  diminutive  of 
bullocks.  Women  were  to  be  seen  occasionally 
pounding  rice  in  a  wooden  mortar  with  a  large 
iron-shod  stick  for  a  pestle,  labour  that  seemed 
to  be  by  far  the  most  active  and  energetic  in 
which  any  portion  of  the  people  were  employed. 
Tliree  or  four  times  during  the  journey,  a  priest 
of  Budha  passed  us  by — to  me  one  of  the  most 
interesting  of  objects,  anxious  as  I  was  to  learn 
sometliing  of  the  strange  faith  which  the 
Budhists  professed.  The  yellow  robes  of  these 
priests,  encircling  the  body  and  legs,  and  thrown 
over  the  right  shoulder,  whilst  the  left  remained 
bare — the  small  leaf-fan  which  they  held  in 
theh  hands — theu'  abstracted  air,  so  befitting 
those  who  professed  to  have  higher  thoughts 
than  "  of  the  earth,  earthy " — all  tended  to 
invest  them  with  an  interest  in  my  mind  far 
superior  to  that  with  which  I  regarded  any 
other  class  of  the  inhabitants.  Generally 
speaking,  they  passed  us  by,  without  so  much 
ag  lifting  theu'  eyes  to  the  carriage,  making 
one  almost  beheve  that  they  had  succeeded  in 
effecting  what  appears  to  be  the  great  object  of 


FEMALE   DEESS.  37 

their  philosophy  and  religion — the  detachment 
of  the  mind  from  all  cleaving  to  external  ob- 
jects, and  the  fixing  of  it  on  itself,  and  on 
higher  subjects  of  meditation. 

I  was  as  yet  by  no  means  reconciled  to  the 
colour  of  the  Singhalese,  and  therefore  regarded, 
more  with  disgust  than  benevolence,  the  troops 
of  naked  children  whom  we  saw  playing  in 
every  village  or  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
cottages.  Occasionally  the  little  imps  treated 
us  to  a  friendly  cheer  as  we  passed,  and  there 
was  so  much  that  was  human  in  the  honest 
sound  that  I  felt  it  open  my  heart  to  them ; 
but,  for  the  most  part,  they  contented  them- 
selves with  a  quiet,  silent  stare,  and  then  a 
short  run  after  the  vehicle.  As  for  the  women, 
I  do  not  beheve  it  would  be  possible  for  female 
humanity  to  dress  itself  more  unbecomingly 
than  the  majority  of  the  Singhalese  do.  Some, 
indeed,  I  remarked  who  dispensed  with  all 
covering  above  the  loins,  but  they  were  chiefly 
old  withered  hags,  engaged  in  beating  the  coir 
which  surrounds  the  cocoa-nut.  Those  w^ho 
were  more  respectable  wore  a  white  jacket, 
closed  in  front,  loosely  dangling  over  their 
shoulders  and  breast — no  attempt  whatever 
being  made  to  fit  it  to  the  shape,  or  to  confine  it 


38  FEMALE   DRESS. 

at  tlie  waist.  A  piece  of  cloth  wrapped  round  the 
lower  part  of  the  person,  resembhng  scanty  pet- 
ticoats, and  similar  to  what  the  men  wear,  formed 
their  nether  habiliments,  whilst  between  the 
two  a  dreadful  hiatus  was  often  left,  disclosing 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  chest  or  stomach, 
over  which  the  white  jacket  above  projects  un- 
gracefully, the  further  in  proportion  to  the  ful- 
ness of  the  bust,  thereby  casting  a  shadow  on 
the  exposed  skin  below,  that  renders  the  contrast 
between  it  and  the  white  jacket  all  the  greater. 
Altogether,  a  more  unbecoming  and  a  more 
ungraceful  dress  it  would  not  be  easy  for  women 
to  adopt ;  and  yet  I  found  that  this  abominable 
style  was  general  tliroughout  the  island  amongst 
the  middle  classes.  The  higher  classes  show 
some  attention  to  elegance,  by  fitting  the  vest, 
to  a  certain  extent,  to  the  figm-e ;  but  such 
women  are  only  to  be  seen  in  the  interior,  or  in 
remote  villages,  where  the  chiefs  have  taken  up 
their  abodes. 

As  we  made  our  way  briskly  to  the  north, 
occasionally  impeded  by  the  difficulty  of  getting 
some  fresh  horses  to  start,  and  sometimes  cross- 
ing wide  rivers  or  small  arms  of  the  sea  in 
large  flat-bottomed  boats  prepared  for  the  pur- 
pose, I  was  joined  by  two  gentlemen  from  some 


BREAKFAST.  39 

of  the  stations  in  the  neighbourhood,  who  were 
likewise  on  their  way  to  Colombo.  We  stopped 
at  a  village  called  Bentotte,  about  half-way  be- 
tween Galle  and  our  destination,  for  breakfast. 
The  village  is  celebrated  for  its  fresh  and  salt 
water  fish ;  and  a  more  palatable  or  more  ex- 
cellent breakfast,  of  its  kind,  it  would  not  be 
easy  to  get  anywhere  than  the  hospitable  little 
rest-house  at  Bentotte  afforded  us.  The  light 
curry  and  rice,  or  fish  and  rice  breakfasts  usually 
partaken  of  in  India  and  Ceylon,  are  admirably 
adapted  to  the  climate,  and  to  the  European 
constitution — far  more  so,  I  beheve,  than  the 
extensive  and  heterogeneous  collections  of 
viands  with  which  Anglo-Indians  load  their 
tables  at  dinner. 

The  views  afforded  by  the  wider  river-estu- 
aries on  the  road  from  Galle  to  Colombo  par- 
ticularly as  one  approaches  the  latter  town,  are 
strikingly  beautiful,  as  examples  of  what  might 
be  called  landscape-garden  scenery.  The  broad 
expanse  of  water  closely  hemmed  in  by  thick 
fohage  nodding  over  the  banks  of  the  stream, 
and  stretching  far  up  into  the  country  in  wind- 
ing, luxurious,  and  graceful  curves,  wants  but 
the  light  skiff  of  the  West,  with  its  glistening 
white  sails,  to  render  it  picturesque  as  well  as 


40  CALTURA. 

beautiful.  At  Caltura,  one  of  these  outlets, 
the  wild  loveliness  of  the  scene  is  enhanced  by 
the  ruins  of  an  old  Dutch  fort,  situated  on  the 
only  hill  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  as 
the  traveller  is  wafted  slowly  across  the  broad 
and  placid  sheet  of  water,  he  must  have  a  quiet 
imagination  indeed,  if  he  does  not  associate 
traditions  and  tales  of  bravery,  and  war,  and 
love,  with  the  old  moss-covered  walls  that  look 
down  so  silently  and  sad  upon  the  variegated 
landscape  below. 


COLOMBO.  41 


CHAPTEE  II. 

COLOMBO  AND  THE  CINNAMON  GARDENS. 

"  In  Ephesus  I  am  but  two  hours  old, 
As  strange  unto  your  town,  as  to  your  talk." 

Comedy  of  Errors,  act  ii.,  sc.  2. 

But  few,  even  of  oriental  towns,  are  built  in 
so  scattered  a  manner  as  the  capital  of  Ceylon. 
The  old  Dutch  fort  forms  the  nucleus,  on  all 
sides  of  which  stretch  the  Em-opean  and  native 
suburbs.  Due  north  and  south,  hning  the  sea- 
shore, are  situated  detachments  of  neat  white 
houses,  with  picturesque  verandahs,  occupied 
by  the  European  community,  whilst  in  an  island 
formed  by  the  Colombo  lake — a  flat,  unvarie- 
gated  island,  by  no  means  of  a  picturesque 
character — others  of  the  same  fraternity,  parti- 
cularly mihtary,  have  taken  up  their  quarters. 
From  these  different  stations,  the  drive  into  the 
fort,  the  great  centre  of  Governmental  and 
mercantile    business,    is   a   pleasant   one — the 


42  SHOPS   AXD   WAREHOUSES, 

roads,  for  the  most  part,  skirting  tlie  sea  or  tL 
lake.  East  from  tlie  fort  lies  the  native  town 
or  pettali,  as  they  call  it,  a  collection  of  narrow 
intricate  streets,  in  wliich  Singhalese,  Malabars, 
Portuguese  and  Dutch  descendants,  Moormen 
and  Parsees,  are  all  to  be  found  in  close  proxi- 
mity to  each  other,  professing  as  many  different 
kinds  of  faith,  and  speaking  as  many  different 
languages.  The  main  street  of  this  district  is 
entirely  occupied  by  shops  and  warehouses, 
where  the  native  merchants  and  shopkeepers 
carry  on  their  business,  and  it  would  not  be 
easy  to  find  elsewhere,  a  collection  of  goods  so 
various  and  miscellaneous,  as  some  of  these 
shops  contain.  Chandeliers,  plate,  dressing- 
cases,  crockery,  cloth,  shawls,  haberdashery, 
cigars,  harness,  saddlery,  and  perfumery,  are  all 
to  be  found  in  the  well-stored  warehouse  of 
Neine  Mereker  for  instance,  a  celebrated 
Mohammedan  shopkeeper  of  this  street.  Neine 
Mereker  is  a  small  instalment  of  the  name  of 
the  owner — the  only  portion  of  it  known  to  Eu- 
ropeans— for  the  entire  appellation  is  lengthier 
than  that  of  a  Portuguese  princess. 

"Well,  Sir,  what  you  want  to-day?"  asks 
Neine,  as  your  buggy  draws  up  before  the  door, 
making  his  portly  way  cai*efiiUy  through  a  crowd 


MOHAMilEDAN   SHOPKEEPER.  43 

,.'  more  plebeian  purchasers — that  is,  of  pur- 
jjhasers  who  do  not  drive  buggies. 

"  I  want  some  cheroots,  Neine,"  is  the  an- 
swer. 

"  Aha,  you  know  I  got  plenty  good  cheroots 
in  the  other  day,  Sir,  fresh  from  Singapore  ?" 
says  Neine,  as  he  again  makes  his  way  through 
the  crowd — "  you  not  seen  these  new  dressing- 
cases  I  got  from  Paris,  day  before  yesterday  ?" 

"  No,  I  have  not,"  says  the  complaisant 
visitor,  "  they're  very  pretty.  But  they  make 
these  in  Birmingham,  Neine." 

"  No,  no,  no — ha,  ha  ! — no,  no.  Sir,  they  not 
make  that  kind  in  Birmingham,  I  know.  They 
make  plenty  good  in  Birmingham,  but  not  that 
kind.  All  from  Paris.  Now  look  at  these 
papier  r7iac/ie  things.  You  think  that  come  from 
Birmingham.  I  know,  no.  All  Paris,  all  Paris. 
See,  plenty  pretty  pictures,  eh !  The  ladies  do 
like  them  so  much.  There  was  Mrs.  Cubb," 
whispers  Neine  confidentially,  mentioning  the 
belle  of  Colombo,  "  did  want  to  make  her  hus- 
band buy  one,  she  wanted  it  so  much.  But  he's 
aU  the  same  as  one  black  bear — he  turns  his 
back  to  her,  to  look  at  his  watch,  and  says  he  is 
plenty  time  to  go  home."  So  sapng,  Neine 
leads  the  way  to  the  glass  case  in   which  a 


44  MOHAMMEDAN   SHOPKEEPER. 

tempting  display  of  patent  leather  boots  and 
shoes  is  presented  to  the  eye  of  the  visitor. 

"  Hoby's  boots,  Sir,"  he  mutters,  as  he  points 
to  the  glistening  collection.  Saddlery  comes 
next.  Neine  points  to  a  specimen — "same 
kind  Prince  Albert  rides  on,"  he  insinuates, 
"all  London  made,  Christy's,  plenty  good." 
The  visitor,  still  taciturn,  is  next  swept  past  a 
case  of  harness,  and  so  Neine  would  take  him 
all  round  his  shop,  certain  of  finding  something 
he  would  buy  ultimately,  did  not  the  impatient 
visitor  speak  of  "  cheroots"  again. 

"  Ah,  ah,  I  know,"  says  Neine,  disappointed, 
and  opening  a  large  chest,  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  spot  whence  they  had  set  out, 
displays  a  tempting  array  of  boxes  of  five 
hundred  and  a  thousand,  Nos.  2,  3  and  4— all 
fresh  from  Manilla,  he  declares,  for  Neine  is 
well  aware  that  the  Manillas,  unhke  the  Havan- 
nahs,  do  not  improve  with  age. 

If  it  be  a  lady  that  he  thus  escorts,  Neine 
has  a  whole  host  of  articles  to  show  her 
fresh  from  London,  from  Paris,  fr'om  Canton. 
Silks,  shawls,  bonnets,  and  flowers,  all,  strange 
to  say,  obtained  within  the  last  few  days ;  not 
an  article  a  week  old  in  his  shop  by  his  own 
account ;  nor  do  I  doubt  that  he  will  often  show 


FOKT  OF   COLOMBO.  45 

to  the  fair  purchasers  the  very  counterpart  of 
the  last  bonnet  worn  by  Her  Majesty  herself. 
Shopping  may  be  a  pleasant  thing  for  ladies  in 
London,  and  doubtless  pleasant  it  is  to  judge  by 
the  quantity  of  time  devoted  to  it,  but  I  doubt 
if  it  can  be  considered  pleasant  under  any  cir- 
cumstances in  India  or  Ceylon.  The  intense 
heat,  and  the  unpleasant  close  smell  of  any  col- 
lection of  new  goods,  of  whatever  kind,  render- 
ing the  shops  almost  unsupportable. 

The  Fort  of  Colombo  is  a  very  large  and  a 
very  badly  constructed  one.  I  have  heard 
mihtary  men  say  that  it  would  take  five  thou- 
sand men  to  garrison  it  properly.  At  the  time 
of  which  I  speak,  there  were  seventeen  gunners 
in  it,  and  two  companies  of  a  European  regi- 
ment. It  is  situated  on  a  rocky  projection, 
nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  western  coast, 
washed  partially  by  the  sea  on  three  sides, 
and  with  a  lake  stretching  away  to  the  south- 
east. There  ai'e  several  small  streets  in  it, 
Hned  with  low  houses  on  either  side,  some  occu- 
pied by  merchants  as  ofl&ces  and  warehouses, 
others  by  Em-opean  shopkeepers,  and  a  few  used 
as  dwelling-houses  by  subaltern  military  officers 
and  others.  Government  house,  where  the 
Governor  resides,  a  large  pubHc  library,  two 
churches,  a  bank,  the  principal  offices  of  Govern- 


46  FOKT   OF   COLOMBO. 

ment,  together  with  a  small  esplanade,  and 
barracks,  are  all  hkewise  contained  within  its 
walls.  From  all  sides  in  the  morning,  may  be 
seen  buggies  and  dog-carts,  and  palanquin- 
carriages  (with  grooms  running  at  the  horses' 
heads,  or  %ing  behind  hke  the  tail  to  a  boy's 
kite,  attached  by  one  arm  to  the  vehicle,) 
making  their  way  vigorously  into  the  Fort.  Its 
drawbridges,  and  covered  ways,  and  embank- 
ments and  gates,  however  useless  against  an 
enemy,  forming  formidable  obstacles  to  the  un- 
lucky driver  who  happens  to  have  a  spirited  horse. 
Merchants,  military  and  commissariat  officers, 
and  those  employed  by  the  local  Government, 
keep  perpetually  rolling  in  from  nme  to  eleven 
in  the  morning,  in  the  whitest  possible  habili- 
ments— white  pantaloons,  wliite  waistcoat,  and 
white  jacket,  surmounted  but  too  frequently  by 
as  white  a  face,  out  of  which  the  heat  and  the 
musquitoes  have  sucked  every  trace  of  colour 
and  of  blood.  Towards  evening  again,  between 
three  and  six,  the  same  stream  makes  its  way, 
through  the  only  two  gates  available  for  the 
purpose,  back  to  the  suburbs,  the  grooms  run- 
ning at  the  horses'  heads,  or  flying  behind  the 
buggies  and  dog-carts  in  the  same  wild  style  as 
in  the  morning.  A  few  ride  from  the  Fort  in 
the  evening,  but  this  exercise  is  generally  re- 


THE   LIBRARY.  47 

served  for  a  later  liour,  when  a  large  piece  of 
unoccupied  ground  south  of  the  Fort,  raid  by 
the  sea  shore,  called  the  Gralle  Face,  is  crowded 
by  carriages  and  equestrians,  some  seeking  the 
cool  breeze  from  the  sea,  others  exhibiting  their 
horses  and  new  hveries,  and  others  their  fine 
dresses  and  habits,  just  as  on  the  Strand  in 
Calcutta — the  only  difference  of  importance 
being  that  whilst  a  carriage  with  two  horses  is 
the  exception  in  Colombo,  it  is  the  rule  in  the 
City  of  Palaces,  where  a  far  larger  number  of 
barouches  and  chariots  make  their  appearance 
than  of  any  other  description  of  vehicle. 

The  library  is  the  principal  resort  in  the 
daytime  for  those  in  the  Fort  who  have  leisure 
or  desii'e  to  read  the  periodicals.  An  ad- 
mirable institution  it  is,  well  supplied  with  the 
current  and  standard  literature  of  England, 
and  containing  many  valuable  classical  and 
foreign  works  of  travels.  The  principal  news- 
papers and  periodicals  of  England  and  the 
Presidencies  are  to  be  found  on  its  tables,  and 
although  the  character  of  the  literature  monthly 
added  to  its  shelves,  is  principally  popular  or 
light,  there  are  but  few  valuable  works  pub- 
lished in  England  respecting  the  East,  which 
do  not  find  their  way  into  it.  To  the  ex- 
patriated Briton  there  can  be  no  greater  plea- 


48  "  THE   DRY   CANAL/' 

sure  than  to  be  able  to  visit,  when  he  pleases, 
an  institution  in  which  he  finds  himself  sur- 
rounded by  the  old  familiar  magazines  and 
reviews,  and  newspapers,  from  which  he  daily 
received  instruction  or  amusement  when  at 
home — yes,  at  home — for,  let  liim  go  where  he 
will,  home  means,  not  his  dweUing-place  or 
temporary  residence,  but  the  country  he  has 
left,  and  to  which  he  hopes  some  day  to  return. 

The  trees  with  wliich  the  Dutch  bordered 
the  roads  and  streets  in  the  Fort,  form  an 
agreeable  contrast  to  the  glistening  white  and 
red-tiled  houses,  and  an  agreeable  shade  to  the 
pedestrian  who  makes  his  way  im^der  so  tropical 
a  sun  as  that  of  Colombo,  from  one  part  of  the 
curious  old  fortification  to  another.  These 
trees,  however,  are  fast  disappearing  under  the 
innovating  reformations  of  John  Bull,  and  he 
does  not  see  the  propriety  of  planting  new 
ones  as  fast  as  the  old  are  removed.  In  fact, 
he  does  not  consider  them  business-like  enough, 
and  hence  his  aversion  to  what  is  merely  in- 
tended to  adorn  and  to  gratify. 

A  canal,  of  which  no  one  knows  the  use 
apparently,  and  which  is  so  seldom  filled  with 
water  that  it  might  be  correctly  styled  "the 
dry  canal,"  divides  the  barracks  and  parade- 
ground  from  the  business  portion  of  the  Fort, 


DRESS   OF   THE   MILITARY.  49 

and  as  the  visitor  looks  across  it,  lie  may  see 
numbers  of  sturdy  warriors,  doomed,  perhaps 
for  their  sins  in  a  former  birth,  a  native  would 
say,  to  dress  themselves  daily  in  heavy  red 
cloth  coats,  as  unfitted  for  wear  in  such  a 
climate  as  the  constitution  of  the  wearers  for 
exposure  to  such  a  sun — some  leaning  over  the 
railing  of  their  verandah  to  watch  and  remark 
upon  the  native  idlers  below,  others  lying  pas- 
sively on  mats,  engaged  in  the  meditative 
process  of  smoking,  but  all  listless  and  quiet, 
as  if  unable  or  unwilhng  to  exert  themselves  in 
any  wa}^  in  such  an  atmosphere. 

The  cinnamon  gardens  in  the  vicinity  of 
Colombo,  form  one  of  its  chief  attractions, 
both  to  the  occasional  visitor  and  to  the  resi- 
dent. My  buggy  has  been  left  at  the  library 
— we  will  drive  to  them.  The  horse -keeper  is 
dozing  as  he  sits  on  his  heels  right  in  front  of 
the  horse's  head,  doubtless  under  the  convic- 
tion that  it  will  be  impossible  for  the  vehicle 
to  go  on  very  far  without  awakening  liim.  A 
word  or  two  recalls  him  to  himself,  although 
he  is  not  always  so  easily  awoke,  and  we  are 
off.  Government  house  is  left  on  om'  right — a 
building  of  little  pretension — ^too  low  to  be 
grand,  and  too  Dutch-like,  in  its  broad  massive 

VOL.  I.  D 


50  ENTEANCE   TO   THE   FORT. 

expansion  on  either  side,  to  be  mistaken  for 
tlie  erection  of  any  other  people.  The  banks — 
for  there  were  two  in  those  days  of  coffee- 
planting  and  enterprize,  although  only  one 
remains — are  on  our  left ;  one  of  them  a  fine 
three-storied  building,  well-built,  and  remark- 
able amidst  the  architectural  poverty  around. 
The  post-office  we  pass  rapidly  on  our  right, 
and  find  ourselves  between  two  avenues  of 
trees  leading  down  to  the  gate  of  the  Fort. 
Here  we  plunge  into  danger  and  gloom  under 
a  dark  tortuous  archway,  where  any  enemy 
might  be  easily  arrested  by  half  a  score  of 
brave  determined  fellows,  if  the  said  enemy 
would  be  but  polite  enough  to  make  his  way 
into  the  fort  that  way,  and  leave  untried  the 
far  easier  road  over  the  battlements.  Emerg- 
ing from  this  subterranean  defile, — invented, 
some  say,  by  a  coach-builder,  who  had  become 
by  accident  Governor  of  Colombo,  when  the 
Fort  was  being  built — emerging  from  it,  with- 
out having  taken  off  the  wheel  at  the  sharp 
angle  in  the  midst  of  the  Tartarean  passage, 
or  dislocated  the  hood  against  the  envious  pro- 
jecting buttress  a  httle  further  on,  we  find 
ourselves  on  a  narrow  level  road  skirted  by 
what  ought  to  be  a  ditch  I  believe,  but  is  a 


THE   GALLE   "FACE."  51 

green  level  plot  of  grass,  leading  down  to  a 
draw-bridge  outside  another  gateway,  at  which 
a  second  sharp  angle  invites  buggies,  palanquin- 
carriages,  and  dog-carts  to  destruction.  The 
sea  is  before  us — a  narrow  strand  only  broad 
enough  for  a  road,  separates  the  frowning 
walls  and  muddy  ditch  of  the  Fort  from  the 
glorious  ocean  beyond.  On  our  right  the  surf 
is  dashing  against  the  huge  rocks  incessantly, 
and  then  scattering  it  in  showers  of  spray 
over  the  ramparts,  whilst  before  us,  in  all  its 
magnificent  grandeur  and  sublime  vastness, 
stretches  the  placid  bosom  of  the  deep,  meet- 
ing, in  a  distinct  line  beyond,  the  overarching 
blue. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  Gralle  Face — 
the  favoured  haunt  of  the  beauties  and  beaux 
of  Colombo,  when  the  sun  is  taking  his  de- 
parture for  the  day,  and  precipitating  himself 
into  the  ocean.  Not  a  cloud  obscures  the 
grand  luminary  at  some  seasons  of  the  year, 
whilst  he  sinks  away  to  the  horizon,  now 
touching  the  water  with  his  reddened  disc, 
anon  cloven  in  two  by  the  clear  line  that 
divides  earth  and  sky,  and  scattering  glorious 
rays  lavishly  over  the  ocean  and  the  heavens 
until  the  whole  western  welkin  shines  with  a 

D  2 


52  AN   EVENING   ON 

blood-red  glow,  wliich,  reflected  on  tlie  surface 
of  the  water,  is  beautiful  to  behold. 

"  The  sun  is  djdng  like  a  cloven  king 

In  his  own  blood ;  the  while  the  distant  moon, 
Like  a  pale  prophetess,  whom  he  has  wronged, 
Leans,  eager  forward,  with  most  hungrj'  eyes, 
Watching  him  bleed  to  death,  and,  as  he  faints, 
She  brightens  and  dilates  ;  revenge  complete, 
She  walks  in  lonely  triumph  thro'  the  night." 

It  is  only  in  the  tropics  that  such  a  scene  as 
the  poet  pictures  here  can  be  seen  in  aU  its 
vivid  reahty,  although  of  course  it  may  be  im- 
agined, in  the  more  cloudy  north. 

But  leaving  the  contemplation  of  the  gran- 
deur and  magnificence  of  nature,  let  us  turn 
our  attention  to  the  scene  which  humanity 
displays  on  this  strip  of  green  that  fringes  the 
lake  on  one  side,  and  the  ocean  on  the  other. 
It  is  a  fine  evening,  the  day  has  been  mtensely 
hot,  and  all  Colombo  is  on  the  "  Face."  By 
the  sea-shore  roll  quietly  lines  of  carriages  of 
all  kinds,  drawn  by  horses  as  various  looking. 
Some  of  the  vehicles  one  might  almost  fancy 
had  left  England  when  Charles  the  Second 
reigned,  and  carriages  were  becoming  for  the 
first  time  extensively  used,  so  antiquated  and 
dilapidated  do  they  appear  to  be,  whilst  the 
poor  horses,  labouring  along,  find  it  useless  to 
attempt  anything  more  than  a   solemn  walk 


THE   GALLE   "FACE."  53 

with  them.  Others  are  of  the  newest  cut,  and 
that  which  is  most  unsuited  to  the  climate, 
whilst  their  occupants  seem  uneasy  if  their 
horses  have  a  moment's  breathing-time.  I 
have  known  a  young  man,  ambitious  and  ec- 
centric, who  dishked  being  only  like  other 
people,  and  who  imported  in  consequence  a 
London  cab  into  Colombo,  with  front  board, 
C  springs,  and  tiger's  stand  complete,  cooped 
up  in  which,  and  protected  by  it  from  every 
breath  of  air,  he  perspired  and  smiled  amaz- 
ingly, whilst  the  light  Arab  horse  to  which 
it  was  attached,  with  difficulty  tugged  it 
forwards.  The  equestrians  occup}'  the  tm-f, 
and  if  the  carriages  be  outre-looking  and 
absurd,  every  one  must  admire  the  horses  and 
their  riders  that  figure  on  the  "  Face."  The 
elegant  Arab  is  in  his  native  element  when  he 
has  a  firm-handed,  hght  rider  on  his  back. 
The  fat  pursy  Colonel  of  sixty,  whose  huge 
dimensions  no  other  uniform  but  his  own 
would  encase,  does  not  look  either  picturesque 
or  interesting,  mounted  on  a  shghtly-built 
graceful  Arab  of  thirteen  hands  high,  but  he 
is  an  exception.  The  majority  of  the  cavaliers 
are  young  men  and  maidens,  and,  as  they 
sweep  over  the  turf  in  animated  converse  or 


54  HORSEMANSHIP. 

excited  enmlation,  none  can  deny  that  the 
scene  is  one  of  striking  beauty  and  great  at- 
tractiveness. The  fine  forms  of  the  horses, 
exhibited  to  perfection  in  the  bonnding  canter 
or  more  severe  gallop — the  Hght  airy  figures 
of  the  female  equestrians,  bending  gracefully 
over  the  saddle-bow  as  they  manage  their 
steeds  or  converse  with  their  companions — the 
athletic  figures  of  the  young  mihtary  ofl&cers, 
who  love  to  display  at  once  their  skill  in  horse- 
manship and  their  red  coats — altogether  form  a 
scene  of  a  new  and  exciting  character,  in  wliich 
the  various  colours  of  the  horses,  the  hues  of 
the  flowing  riding-habits,  the  black  hats  and 
coats  of  the  civil,  and  the  red  jackets  of 
the  mihtary,  horsemen,  all  combine  and  con- 
trast elegantly  with  each  other,  and  with  the 
green  turf  beneath.  It  is  doubtful  whether 
even  the  drawing-rooms  of  the  private  houses 
or  the  ball-rooms  of  pubhc  assemblies,  are  more 
frequently  the  bu'th-place  of  love  between 
youtliful  members  of  Colombo  society,  than 
the  Galle  Face.  Certain  it  is  that  many 
choose  the  lonely  ride  and  the  confidential 
companionship  which  it  engenders,  for  the 
disclosure  of  afiection  and  the  making  of  what 
is  so  vulgarly  called  "a  proposal."     Nor  would 


THE   CINNAMON   GARDENS.  00 


it  be  easy  perhaps  to  find  a  better  opportunity 
for  such  a  purpose  than  when  the  warm  blood 
has  been  set  rapidly  in  motion  by  the  most 
agreeable  of  all  forms  of  exercise. 

A  smart  trot  through  Colpetty — a  suburb  of 
Colombo,  extending  to  the  south  beyond  the 
"  Face,"  and  almost  exclusively  occupied  by 
the  English — brings  us  to  the  entrance  into 
the  cinnamon  gardens.  Every  cultivated  spot 
of  ground  in  Ceylon  is  called  a  garden,  and 
therefore  in  the  cinnamon  gardens,  the  visitor 
will  be  much  disappointed  if  he  expects  to  see 
neat  walks,  trimly  laid  out,  or  artificial  arrange- 
ments intended  to  heighten  or  improve  the 
efiects  of  nature.  There  is  nothing  of  all  this 
here,  and  yet  gardens  they  undoubtedly  are, 
in  the  noblest  and  truest  sense  of  the  term. 
The  well-kept  road  afibrds  us  an  excellent  view 
of  them  on  either  side.  The  whole  place  re- 
sembles a  wilderness  of  laurel  bushes  growing 
out  of  masses  of  snow  or  salt.  The  fine  sand 
which  forms  the  external  coating  of  the  soil  is 
almost  purely  white,  and  the  bushes  thrive  in 
it  luxuriantly.  They  grow  in  irregular  tufts, 
their  perennial  green  of  all  hues,  varying  from 
the  faintest  yellow  to  the  most  sombre  brown, 
contrasting   pleasantly  with   the   ghmpses   of 


56  DRIVE   THROUGH 

white  sand  beneath,  which  the  visitor  occa- 
sionally gets,  as  he  rides  or  drives  along.  No- 
thing can  be  more  dehcate  in  hue  than  the 
first  tender  leaves  of  the  cinnamon  bush,  as 
they  shoot  forth  variously  from  its  branches — 
half-opening,  half-curling  up,  as  if  afraid  to 
trust  themselves  to  the  broad,  garish  Hght  of 
day.  Their  flavour  too  is  a  faint,  pleasant, 
aromatic  one,  that  tempts  the  early  wanderer 
to  pluck  them  occasionally  as  he  brushes  past, 
and,  whilst  the  dew  is  rising  in  vapour  from 
the  leaves,  caught  up  by  the  morning  sun,  it 
carries  with  it  a  deHghtftd  perfume  of  the  spicy 
shrub,  which  makes  the  air  pecuHarly  pleasant. 
On  horseback,  or  in  a  buggy,  the  visitor's  eye 
sweeps  unimpeded  over  the  wide  extent  of  the 
tops  of  the  bushes,  which  cluster  thickly  on 
the  ground,  here  and  there  a  solitary  tree  ar- 
resting his  attention,  and  looking  as  if  it  were 
sorry  to  have  left  the  agreeable  companionship 
below.  In  the  very  centre  of  the  plantation, 
a  noble  knot  of  lofty  trees,  judiciously  planted, 
afford  an  agreeable  shade,  and  make  the  pedes- 
trian sigh  for  a  bench  on  which  to  enjoy  the 
scenery  and  the  refreshing  air, 

It  is  only  in  the  morning,  as  I  have  said, 
that  the  cinnamon  bush  affords  a  perfume,  just 


THE   CINIS^AMON  GARDENS.  0/ 

when  the  dew  is  being  evaporated  from  the 
young  leaves, — at  all  other  times,  a  strong 
imagination  may  conjure  up  a  "  spicy  breeze," 
but  it  is  entirely  of  the  character  of  a  "  base- 
less fabric  of  a  vision ;"  no  such  breeze  blows, 
no  such  odour  is  wafted  over  sea  or  land — "  the 
only  thing  that  can  ordinarily  be  smelt  about 
them,"  as  my  uncle,  old-bachelor  like,  somewhat 
cynically  observed,  "  being  the  rotten  leaves, 
which,"  he  added,  "  have  very  much  the  same 
perfume  in  all  countries."  There  certainl}^  are 
few  places  in  which  a  ride  is  more  agreeable,  or 
perhaps  more  beneficial,  than  in  these  gardens, 
and  accordingly  on  every  fine  evening,  that 
is,  on  nineteen  evenings  out  of  every  twenty, 
they  are  visited  by  numbers  who  have  become 
weary  of  the  constant  unchanging  round  on  the 
Galle  Face,  and  who  desire  rather  to  obtain 
amusement  and  enjoyment  for  themselves,  than 
to  afibrd  them  to  others.  The  morning  how- 
ever is  the  proper  time  to  visit  these  gardens — 
just  when  the  rays  of  the  sun  are  struggling 
with  the  few  light  misty  clouds  that  impede 
their  progress,  just  when  the  dew  is  beginning 
to  forsake  the  leaves,  and  the  birds,  wakinar 
from  their  night's  sleep,  are  replacing  the 
hoarse   murmur  of  insect   life   by  their   own 

D  3 


Ob  PREPARATION   OF   CINNAMON. 

sweet  cliirping  and  songs — tlien  it  is  that  the 
visitor,  whether  on  foot  or  on  horseback,  may 
truly  enjoy  the  gardens,  and  then  it  is  of  course 
that  they  are  most  deserted. 

The  preparation  of  the  spice  from  the  bush 
is  a  very  simple  operation.  Sticks,  as  straight 
as  possible,  tliree  or  four  feet  long,  are  cut  from 
the  bushes  in  large  numbers,  the  thickest,  not 
much  grosser  than  one's  thumb,  the  thinnest 
not  so  small  as  one's  little  finger.  These 
sticks  are  held  by  the  operator  in  his  left 
hand,  resting  lengthways  on  his  fore-arm, 
whilst  with  a  sharp  knife,  prepared  for  the 
pm-pose,  he  cuts  the  bark  down  the  entire 
length  of  the  stick,  and  then  peels  it  ofiP,  en- 
deavouring to  retain  the  pieces  of  as  great  a 
length  and  breadth  as  possible.  A  slip  of  the 
knife  would  of  course  bury  it  at  once  in  the 
hand  or  arm,  but  practice  makes  them  quite 
jDerfect  in  the  matter,  and  they  seldom  injure 
themselves.  To  the  visitor  who  sees  the  stick 
pressing  into  the  soft  flesh  of  the  arm,  or 
almost  imbedded  in  the  muscle  of  the  bare 
thigh,  whilst  the  knife  is  brought  rapidly 
along,  making  a  deep  incision,  the  labour 
appears  a  higlily  dangerous  one,  nor  can  a 
spectator  witness  it  at  first  without  a  shud- 


LIFE    IX   COLOMBO.  59 

der ;  but  to  the  operators  themselves  the  fear 
of  the  novice  is  merely  a  subject  of  amusement 
— they  see  no  danger  in  it,  and  know  that 
carelessness  alone  can  turn  off  the  edge  of  the 
keen  knife,  even  at  the  hardest  knot.  The 
strips  of  bark,  so  peeled  off,  are  then  thoroughly 
dried  in  the  sun,  rolled  up  into  thin  cyHnders, 
the  smaller  being  placed  witliin  the  larger,  and 
packed  for  exportation. 

There  was  much  in  my  Hfe  in  Colombo  that 
I  enjoyed  with  a  keen  relish.  True  the  heat 
and  musquitoes  were  dreadful,  and  never  was 
there  a  greater  martyr  to  the  latter  than  I  was. 
From  the  moment  of  my  arrival  almost,  they 
had  evidently  marked  me  as  their  own,  wliilst 
the  heat  was  increased  by  my  constant  desire 
for  exertion  of  some  kind.  But  if  the  middle 
of  the  day  was  all  but  unbearable,  the  morn- 
ings and  evenings  were  dehghtfiil;  and  in 
coursing  tlnrough  the  cinnamon  gardens  or 
boating  on  the  Colombo  lake,  I  found  both 
employment  and  exercise  of  the  most  agree- 
able kind.  I  did  not  thmk  much  of  the  Go- 
vernor's dinners,  stiff,  formal,  and  unenjoyable 
as  they  were,  and  even  a  ball  at  Government 
House  did  not  appear  to  me  to  be  the  acme  of 
feUcity,  but  even  these  were  interesting   be- 


60  ECCENTRIC   OLD   BACHELOR. 

cause  they  were  novel,  and  their  very  novelty 
made  up  for  their  duhiess. 

The  coffee-estate,  wliich  I  had  left  England 
to  manage,  was  ah'eady  planted,  and  in  bear- 
ing it  is  true,  and  there  were  all  the  hopes 
and  fears  of  a  new  and  untried  life  yet  to  be  en- 
tered upon  and  to  be  encountered;  but  these 
considerations  did  not  trouble  me  much. 
There  was  something  piquant  in  the  very 
idea  of  life  in  the  jungle  which  made  me 
wish  to  be  there  as  soon-  as  possible.  My 
uncle's  former  partner,  whose  place  I  sup- 
plied, was  dead,  and  a  Portuguese  servant, 
a  confidential  man,  was  at  present  acting 
as  superintendent.  He  was  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  coffee-planting  practically,  and 
I  theoretically,  so  that  I  had  no  doubt  we 
should  form  between  us  an  admirable  estate. 
In  the  mean  time  I  learned  Singhalese  and 
Anglo-Ceylon  customs  in  Colombo,  whilst  re- 
siding with  my  relative.  He  was  a  kind  though 
eccentric  old  bachelor,  who  had  lived  for  fifteen 
years  in  the  island,  and  had  a  profound  con- 
tempt lor  everything  but  commerce  and  coffee- 
planting,  and  for  every  one  except  those  en- 
gaged in  them. 

On  a  native  holiday,    when    there    was   no 


AN  OPPRESSIVE  MORNIXG.  61 

business  doing  in  the  Fort,  he  accompanied 
me  to  the  house  of  a  clergyman,  to  whom  I 
had  recently  been  introduced,  and  who  had  in- 
vited us  to  visit  a  Budhist  temple  at  the 
opposite  extremity  of  the  lake,  by  the  side  of 
which  his  house  was  built.  We  started  very 
early.  Even  the  morning  was  oppressively 
hot,  w^hilst  a  mist,  rising  from  the  ground  just 
preparatory  to  the  sun's  appearance,  rendered 
the  air  hea\'ier  and  more  oppressive  than  it 
would  otherwise  have  been.  We  had  a  journey 
of  several  miles  to  accomphsh  in  this  atmo- 
sphere, cooped  up  in  a  close  palanquin-carriage. 
Mr.  Padre,  our  host,  was  a  pious  man,  an 
exception  to  the  general  rule  in  India ;  and 
as  morning  prayers  were  but  just  beginning  on 
our  arrival,  we  joined  the  family.  I  have  said 
that  the  ground  without  was  steaming  ;  vapours 
were  endeavouring  to  rise  through  the  loaded 
air,  but  ineffectually,  for  there  were  other  va- 
pours above — not  fogs,  such  as  London  dehghts 
in,  but  invisible  steam,  not  to  be  seen,  but  to  be 
most  indubitably  felt.  The  atmosphere  within 
the  house  was  httle  more  tolerable  ;  and  as  I 
took  my  seat  I  felt  two  streams  com'sing  down 
upon  either  side  of  my  forehead,  which  it  was 
useless  to  interrupt  by  occasional  mopping  up. 


62  PERSECUTION   BY 

Not  a  single  musquito  had  remained  out  of 
doors  on  this  particular  morning.  I  was  a 
perfect  mai-tyr  to  them.  They  had  been 
swarming  at  home  when  we  left ;  but  they 
were  swarming  near  the  lake  in  still  greater 
abundance.  I  had  scarcely  taken  my  seat  to 
listen  with  what  devotion  such  an  atmosphere 
and  such  circumstances  would  allow,  when  I 
felt  that  my  old  enemies  were  upon  me.  At 
the  knees  my  pantaloons  were  of  course  drawn 
more  tightly  than  elsewhere,  and,  as  I  never 
could  endure  drawers  in  a  climate  where  aU 
dress  was  superfluous,  the  larger  animals  of  the 
musquito  kind  invariably  found  out  this  weak 
point,  and  perched  upon  my  knee — insinu- 
atingly inserted  their  probosces,  as  if  that  knee 
were  their  own — and  then  commenced  their 
depredations.  I  became  painftdly  conscious  in 
a  moment  that  they  were  at  work,  and,  look- 
ing down,  distinguished  two  monsters  aheady 
bloated  with  excessive  sucking.  I  put  my 
hand  out  quietly,  as  if  intending  notliing  par- 
ticular, and  allowed  it  gently  to  descend  upon 
the  smarting,  itcliing  knee;  but  they  were 
gone ;  the  rascals  had  been  too  quick  for  me. 
I  rubbed  the  wounded  member  a  little,  and 
then  placed  the  other  knee  upon  it,  for  the 


THE   MUSQUITOES.  63 

pressure  was  agreeable.  Amidst  the  sonorous 
reading  of  tlie  Scriptures  there  was  a  constant 
buz,  buz,  buz  from  my  bloodthirsty  enemies 
around  my  ears,  longing  for  a  bite.  By  skilfal 
evolutions  of  the  head  and  hand  I  contrived  to 
keep  them  from  settling.  The  pmikah  was 
pulled  but  lazily,  and  it  would  not  have  done 
to  have  shouted  out  under  such  circumstances. 
I  directed  many  an  agonized  glance  at  the 
wretch  who  was  puUing  it,  but  he  heeded  them 
not,  for  he  was  dozing;  his  head  had  sunk 
upon  his  breast,  and  his  closed  eyes  showed 
that  he  was  utterly  oblivious  of  my  woes,  and 
likely  to  remain  so ;  whilst  his  hand  moved 
mechanically  backwards  and  forwards,  lazily, 
heavily,  and  uncertainly.  In  the  mean  time  a 
smart  of  more  than  ordinary  poignancy,  caused 
by  some  monster  musquito  I  suppose,  made  me 
almost  jump  from  my  chair.  I  forgot  where  I 
was  for  an  instant,  and  brought  down  my  hand 
with  terrific  force  upon  my  leg,  with  force 
enough  to  have  killed  a  thousand  of  the  in- 
sects had  they  been  collected  there ;  but  the 
stai't  had  warned  the  poacher  away,  and  he 
was  quietly  performing  gyrations  round  my 
chair,  waiting  for  the  next  convenient  oppor- 
tunity.     I  felt  ashamed  of  myself;    all  eyes 


64  PERSECUTION   BY 

were   upon   me    for    an    instant;    my    uncle 
was  grave ;    and  it  was  quite  evident  that  Mr. 
Padre's  family,  consisting  of  Mrs.  Padre  and 
two  Misses  Padre,  looked  upon  me  already  as 
a  dissipated  character.     But,  alas !  these  were 
but  the  beginnings  of  sorrows.     I  was  seated 
upon  a  cane  chair,   and  through  "the  inter- 
stices between  the  intersections"  {vide  Johnson's 
definition  of  network),  these  insatiable  blood- 
suckers made  their  way  to  another  portion  of 
my  frame,  where  the  pantaloons  were  equally 
tight,  and  v/here  it  was  impossible  for  me  to 
get  at  them.     The  loud  report  which  my  hand 
had  caused  in   coming  down  with  such  force 
upon   my   thigh    had    roused   my    friend   the 
punkah-puller.     I  saw  a  malicious  grin  upon 
liis  countenance,  as  he  fixed  his  eyes  on  me 
and  pulled  harder  and  more  regularly.      The 
agitation  of  the  air  caused  by  his  vigorous  ex- 
ertions reheved  me  from  the  enemies  who  had 
been   swarming   round   my  head ;    but,    alas ! 
they  had  only  made  their  way  under  the  chair, 
where  the  influence  of  the  punkah  was  not  to 
be  felt.     I  could  sit  at  ease  no  lonarer.     It  was 
only  by  constantly  changing  my  posture  that 
I  could  detach  those  who  had  attacked  me  from 
beneath ;    and   what   with   the   pain   and  the 


THE   MUSQUITOES.  65 

endeavour  to  prevent  fresh  assaults,  I  literally 
writhed  in  a  species  of  perpetual  motion.  It 
was  impossible  for  mortal  man  to  endure  it 
long.  That  interminable  chapter  would  ap- 
parently never  be  done ;  and  seeing  a  chair 
with  a  horse-hair  seat  in  my  vicinity — (the 
cane-bottoms  are  generally  preferred  for  cool- 
ness)— I  at  length  mustered  up  courage  to  rise, 
and  convey  my  person  to  the  safer  piece  of 
furniture,  on  which  I  was  at  all  events  secure 
from  such  insidious  attacks  from  beneath. 
Another  general  stare  was  the  result  of  this 
fresh  move  on  my  part,  and  I  felt  as  if  I 
should  like  very  much  to  be  anywhere  but 
where  I  was.  Mauvaise  honte  was  my  pre- 
vaihng  folly;  and  I  blushed  up  to  my  ears 
first,  and  then  down  again  to  my  toes.  Punkah- 
puller  was  grinning  more  indecently  than  ever, 
almost  audibly,  in  fact,  and  I  felt  as  if  I  could 
with  pleasure  have  vented  my  accumulated 
rage  and  shame  and  pain  upon  him.  I  thought 
he  saw  that  in  my  face,  for  he  turned  away  his 
eyes  when  mine  met  his,  and  hid  his  dark 
features  between  his  knees  again.  The  read- 
ing proceeded  as  before — the  temporary  inter- 
ruption caused  by  my  sudden  move  was  at  an 
end — and  I  now  ventured  to  turn  my  atten- 


66  PERSECUTION  BY 

tion  to  tlie  cliair  I  had  left.  From  where  I 
sat,  at  a  short  distance  from  it,  I  conld  dis- 
tinctly see  numerous  musquitoes  quickly  and 
regularly  revoMng  round  the  space  enclosed 
by  the  feet  of  the  chair  beneath,  evidently 
lookhig  for  the  same  consolation  which  some  of 
their  brethren  had  abeady  received  at  the  ex- 
pense of  my  ease  and  comfort.  I  chuckled 
with  satisfaction  as  I  thought  that  they  were 
outwitted  now  at  all  events,  but  was  instanta- 
neously recalled  to  a  consideration  of  my  own 
position  by  an  acute  sting  upon  the  exposed 
knee,  and  another  upon  the  most  prominent 
portion  of  the  calf  of  my  leg.  These  assaults  had 
been  simultaneous,  and  all  the  injury  was  done 
before  my  attention  had  been  called  to  them. 
But  why  linger  upon  so  ticklish  and  painful  a 
subject?  Those  who  have  never  experienced 
the  ferocious  assaults  of  an  army  of  musquitoes 
can  have  no  sympathy  with  me  ,*  those  who 
have,  need  but  few  words  to  recall  the  image  to 
then*  mind — an  imagq  which, — 

"  To  those  who  know  it  not,  no  words  can  paint, 
Whilst  those  who  know  it,  know  all  Mords  are  faint." 

The  reading  of  that  chapter,  which  I  had 
long  looked  upon  as  interminable,  and  which  I 
still  think  must  have  been  the  longest  in  the 


THE   MUSQUITOES.  67 

Bible,  was  at  length  fmislied,  and  we  knelt. 
Any  change,  I  thought,  must  have  been  for  the 
better ;  but  I  was  mistaken.  My  friend,  the 
punkah-puller,  had  relapsed  into  somnolency, 
and  the  breeze  caused  by  his  exertions  was  of 
the  most  gentle  and  harmless  description 
possible.  I  need  scarcely  say  that,  as  I  knelt, 
my  jacket,  exactly  of  the  fashion  of  an  Enghsh 
school-boy's,  only  differing  m  the  material, 
which  was  white  long-cloth,  did  not  defend  me 
from  the  assaults  of  the  musquitoes,  as  a  pale- 
tot, a  frock-coat,  nay,  even  a  dress-coat,  to  some 
extent,  would  have  done.  It  was  impossible 
not  to  become  speedily  and  painfully  sensible 
of  this  fact,  and,  whatever  my  feelings  of  de- 
votion, the  pain  to  which  I  was  subjected  in 
consequence  of  the  want  of  any  posterior  de- 
fence, was  quite  sufficient  to  have  roused  a  saint 
from  his  propriety.  To  attend  to  the  prayers, 
under  such  circumstances,  was  impossible.  One 
of  the  Misses  Padre  was  kneeling  near  me — the 
mother  was  fortunately  at  the  opposite  side  of 
the  study  table — and  my  back  was  tm^ned 
towards  the  reverend  gentleman  liimself.  I 
could  not  shy  a  book  at  the  punkah-puller's 
head,  to  rouse  him  to  greater  exertions.  I 
could  not  openly  rise  from  my  knees  and  seat 


68  PERSECUTION  BY 

myself.  I  thoug-lit  of  quietly  passing  my  hand- 
kerchief round,  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  kilt  worn 
on  the  wrong  side,  but  I  knew  Mr.  Padre  must 
see  such  a  manoeuvre,  and  I  knew  that  these 
sallow-faced,  liver-diseased,  old  Anglo-Indians 
never  give  a  young  man  credit  for  being  so  un- 
mercifully persecuted  as  he  sometimes  is.  He 
would  ascribe  it  all  to  a  species  of  irreverent 
larking,  to  which  I  was  as  httle  disposed  as  he 
was.  The  evil  was  every  moment  becoming 
more  unendm-able.  I  felt  that  a  crisis  was  at 
hand,  that  something  must  be  done ;  and  at 
the  risk  of  losing  the  esteem  of  a  highly  estim- 
able and  worthy  family  for  ever,  I  did  at  length 
muster  courage  to  insinuate  my  handkerchief  as 
well  as  I  could  into  the  desired  position ;  but 
this  could  not  be  done  without  noise,  and  a 
pause  in  the  worthy  clergyman's  reading  con- 
vinced me  that  he  was  watching  my  proceed- 
ings. I  did  not  venture  to  turn  my  head — the 
Miss  Padre  beside  me  was  evidently  disturbed 
in  her  devotions  by  my  uneasiness — and  a  sense 
of  these  accumulated  and  unmerited  wrongs  and 
sufferings  tlirew  me  into  a  heat,  to  which,  what 
I  endured,  when  the  thermometer  was  at  98° 
in  the  shade,  was  a  trifle. 

Throughout  breakfast  I  was  painfully  con- 


THE   MUSQUITOES.  69 

scions  of  the  fact  tliat  every  member  of  the 
family  regarded  me  as  a  reprobate,  and  although 
I  did  all  I  could  to  remove  the  impression,  I 
saw  plainly  that  it  was  fixed  in  the  minds  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Padre.  The  young  ladies  were 
more  just,  and,  forsaking  the  parents,  I  did  my 
best  to  ingratiate  myself  with  the  daughters. 
Whilst  the  preparations  for  departure  to  the 
Budhist  temple,  by  boat,  were  being  made, 
my  uncle  foimd  an  opportunity  of  addressing 
me  privately. 

"  I  thought  you  had  learned  a  little  more 
reverence  for  religion  in  college,"  said  he,  "  than 
to  create  such  a  disturbance  at  prayer-time." 
The  struggling  grin  which  played  round  his 
mouth  as  he  spoke,  proved  to  me  that  he  was 
thoroughly  aware  both  of  the  extent  of  my 
persecution  and  of  its  cause. 

"  There  never  was  a  man  so  beset  by  those 
plagues,  the  musquitoes,  as  I  am,"  I  replied. 
"I  endured  enough  this  morning,  both  at 
prayers  and  at  breakfast,  to  weary  out  the  most 
imperturbable  patience." 

"  They  bite  you  through  your  pantaloons, 
then?"  said  he. 

"  They  bite  me  through  everything,  but  my 
boots,"  said  I. 

"  A  florid  complexion,"  he  answered,  grin- 


70  VISIT  TO  A 

ning ;  "  never  knew  a  florid  complexion  tliat 
wasn't  a  martyr  to  them." 

"  Very  satisfactory  to  know  tliat,  truly,"  I 
replied. 

"  Oil,  but  you'll  get  rid  of  them  on  the 
coffee  estate.  They  don't  go  up  so  high — only 
that  the  leeches  are  worse  there,  a  thousand 
times  worse  there  than  the  musquitoes  here." 

"  A  delightful  country,"  I  sighed,  as  I 
rubbed  my  knee,  still  smarting  with  the 
morning's  infliction. 

"  As  fine  a  country  as  there  is  under  heaven, 
Sii',"  was  his  reply ;  "  and  if  people  will  only 
wear  drawers  and  leech-gaiters,  they  need  not 
fear  either  the  musquitoes  or  leeches  much." 

Mr.  Padre  joined  us  at  the  moment,  and  I 
endeavoured  to  give  liim  some  idea  of  my 
sufferings,  but  evidently  without  success. 

We  were  soon  seated  in  our  host's  boat, 
under  a  comfortable  awning,  and  making  our 
way  slowly  but  pleasantly  over  the  lake,  as  it 
glistened  brightly  in  the  sun's  rays.  The  cool 
breeze  that  played  over  the  surface  of  the  water 
fanned  our  faces  agreeably,  and  made  the  voy- 
age enjoyable.  Behind  us  was  the  sloping  hill 
on  which  stood  the  house  we  had  just  left,  its 
white  walls  and  pillars  contrasting  well  with 
the  green  lawn  that  swept  down  to  the  edge 


BUDHIST  TEMPLE,  71 

of  the  lake,  and  with  green  Venetians  that 
guarded  the  windows.  We  were  rowed  by 
four  boatmen  belonging  to  Mr.  Padi-e's  estab- 
Hshment,  tastefully  dressed  in  his  livery  of 
white  and  blue,  and  by  no  means  exerting 
themselves  to  any  dangerous  degree  to  urge 
the  boat  too  rapidly  along.  The  winding,  well- 
wooded  shores  of  the  lake  stretched  away  from 
us  on  either  side,  more  resembling  those  of  a 
river  in  their  form  than  the  extremities  of  an 
extensive  sheet  of  water — its  broad  expanse  on 
the  northern  side,  being  shut  out  from  view  by 
the  sinuous  Hue  of  forest.  Far  away,  at  the 
extremity  of  the  water,  could  be  seen  the  temple 
to  which  we  were  bound,  agreeably  perched 
upon  the  summit  of  a  hill,  with  its  tapering 
spire  pointing  heavenwards,  whilst  behind  it 
rose  another,  and  a  loftier  liill,  that  seemed  the 
outer  barrier  of  the  extensive  valley  occupied 
by  the  lake  and  forest. 

An  hour  and  a-half's  rowing  brought  us  to 
the  landing  place,  where  a  somewhat  steep 
path  ascended  to  the  temple  and  its  dagobah. 
I  escorted  the  elder  Miss  Padre,  a  demure,  im- 
perturbable young  lady,  very  white,  and  very 
thoughtful — I  doubt  if  she  had  ever,  in  the 
course  of  her  hfe,  acted  once  from  impulse,  even 
when  an  infant,  so  staid  and  sober,  and  me- 


72  DESCRIPTION  OV 

thoclic,  and  calculating  were  her  words  and  her 
actions.  She  was  a  valuable  companion,  how- 
ever, in  the  present  instance,  for  she  explained' 
much  that  would  have  been  other^vise  incom- 
prehensible to  me. 

"  The  Budhist  temples  consist  of  two  parts," 
said  she,  as  we  ascended ;  "a  wiliare,  in  which 
the  priests  live,  and  where  they  read  the  sacred 
books  to  the  people,  and  a  dagobah,  or  monu- 
mental, bell-sha23ed  erection,  covering  some 
relics,  supposed  by  them  to  be  hoty." 

"  Then  it  is  the  dagobah,  of  which  I  see  the 
spire  overtopping  the  trees  yonder,"  I  ob- 
served 

"  It  is,"   said  she. 

"  And  the  other  part,  the  w " 

"  Wihare"  she  suggested. 

"  Wihare,"  said  I,  ''is  a  kind  of  monastery.", 

"  Something  resembling  a  monastery  and  a 
chapel,  amongst  the  Roman  Cathohcs.  One 
part  of  it  is  devoted  to  a  large  image  of  Grotama 
Budha,  which  the  people  worship,  and  another 
to  the  residence  of  the  priests." 

"  They  lead  a  quiet,  peaceful,  happy  kind 
of  hfe,  I  suppose,"  said  I ;  "  w4th  little  to 
do,  save  to  consume  the  food  the  people  give 
them." 

"  They  are  not  wholly  dependent  on  alms ;" 


A  BUDHIST  TEMPLE.  73 

she  explained ;  "  there  are  lands  attached  to  the 
temple,  on  which  they  principally  subsist.  My 
papa  knows  the  chief  priest  of  this  temple  very 
well ;  and  has  often  discussions  with  him ;  and 
I  have  heard  pa  say,  that  he  beheves  the  priests 
for  the  most  part  lead  a  moral,  useful  kind  of 
life." 

'*  How  useful  ?"  I  asked. 

"  In  teaching  the  young,"  was  the  reply. 

By  this  time  we  had  reached  a  square  en- 
closure surrounded  by  low  cottages,  on  one  side 
of  which  the  large  massive  temple  rose, — its 
stuccoed  walls  shining  like  white  marble,  and 
making  the  thatched  cottage-looking  buildings 
in  its  vicinity,  appear  all  the  more  mean  and 
paltry.  Mr.  Padre  and  his  younger  daughter, 
a  lively,  interesting  young  lady,  to  whose  cheek 
'the  exercise  had  lent  a  blush  that  made  her 
look  pretty,  was  close  behind  us  ;  whilst,  as 
we  looked  down  the  path,  we  saw  my  uncle 
and  Mrs.  Padre  labouring  along,  as  well  as 
their  size  and  weight  would  admit  of,  for 
neither  of  them  was  of  small  dimensions. 

A  yellow-robed  priest,  with  shaven  crown, 
and  the  usual  fan  in  his  hand,  soon  joined  our 
party,  and  informed  Mr.  Padre,  that  the  chief 
of  the  temple  was  absent — offering  very  politely 

VOL.  I.  E 


74  BUDHIST   PRIEST. 

to  escort  us  round  the  building  himself.  He 
spoke  in  Singhalese,  which  I  had  been  study- 
ing zealously  ever  since  my  arrival,  and  in 
which  I  had  now  made  some  proficiency ;  and 
from  a  dark-skinned  specimen  of  humanity, 
with  his  left  arm  and  shoulder  bare,  and  with- 
out shoes  or  stockings,  shirt,  coat,  waistcoat,  or 
pantaloons,  nothing  in  fact,  but  a  vast  mass  of 
yellow  cloth  wrapped  round  his  body  in  volu- 
minous folds,  and  stretching  from  his  feet  to 
his  right  shoulder — from  such  a  figure  om* 
European  prejudices  would  not  have  expected 
the  perfect  courtesy  and  good  breeding,  the 
gentlemanly  suavity  and  elegance,  with  which 
he  offered  his  services.  I  was  surprised  and 
pleased ;  and  the  film  of  prejudice  through 
which,  up  to  this  moment,  I  had  regarded  the 
natives,  was  now  torn  from  my  eyes.  Con- 
ventionalism is  the  bane  of  modern  society. 
So  little  that  is  natural  is  left  us,  so  Kttle,  in- 
deed, that  is  not  wholly  and  altogether  arti- 
ficial and  unnatural,  that  even  our  impressions 
and  feelings,  our  thoughts  and  convictions  are 
too  often  not  our  owm,  but  those  of  the  society 
with  which  we  mix,  of  the  limited  circle  in 
which  we  move.  Our  minds,  like  our  bodies, 
are  so  covered  with  tight  trappings,  swathing 


EDUCATION   OF    YOUTH.  75 

bandages  and  drapery,  that  the  form  and  feeling 
within  are  almost  lost,  or  at  all  events,  effectu- 
ally concealed.  Custom  and  society  daily  make 
new  inroads  into  our  individuality  until  little 
or  nothing  is  left  us  that  is  our  own ;  but,  as 
in  the  diamond,  the'  plain  form  of  nature  is 
exchanged  for  the  angularities  and  caprices  of 
the  lapidary — the  twinking  and  sparkling,  per- 
haps, increased,  but  the  gem  certainly  reduced 
in  size,  and  the  inward  light  torn  fi'om  its 
dwelling,  and  thrown  as  much  as  possible  upon 
the  exterior,  so  it  is  with  us — so  is  our  in- 
dividuality destroyed.  I  could  not  help  making 
a  reflection  of  this  kind  as  I  followed  our 
swarthy  friend,  from  the  square,  well-shaded 
court-yard  in  which  we  stood  when  he  ap- 
proached us,  to  the  adjacent  temple. 

We  passed  a  few  youths  seated  on  the  ground 
nasally  intoning  a  portion  of  their  sacred  books 
under  the  direction  of  a  priest,  and  it  was  an 
interesting  sight  to  see  how  little  impression 
the  approach  of  om-  party  made  upon  the  youth- 
ful assembly.  Six  Europeans,  in  what  to  them 
must  have  appeared  to  be  holiday  or  masquerade 
attire,  could  not  have  been  a  common  spectacle 
for  them,  yet  so  well-trained  were  they,  or  so 
apathetic,  that  there  was  no  lifting  of  the  head, 

E  2 


76  IMAGE  OF   GOTAMA. 

no  stoppage  of  the  recitation.     The  priest  in 
charge  of  the  httle  body  did  not  once  take  his 
eyes  from  the  page  as  we  passed,  whilst  the 
youngsters  cast  but  furtive  glances  now  and 
then,  as  the  ladies'  dresses  rustled  together,  or  as 
we  spoke.     So  different  i-s  the  East  from  the 
West ;    so  complete  the  contrast  between  the 
soft,    apathetic,    indifierent    Asiatic,    and    the 
rough,  energetic,  curious,  and  eager  European  ! 
The  massive  walls  of  the  temple  reminded 
me   of  the   Dutch   buildings   in   the  Eort  of 
Colombo  ;  in  their  thickness  and  solidity,  all  the 
more  striking  from  the  flimsy,  temporary  cha- 
racter of  the  wood  and  leaf  cottages  of  the 
priests'   dwellings   without.      Advancing   into 
the  gloomy  interior,  it  was  some  time  before  the 
eye  could  distinguish  objects,  so  abrupt  had 
been  the  transition  from  the  bright  glare  with- 
out to  the  comparative  darkness  within.     At 
length  the  large  outhne  of  a  recumbent  figure 
became  clearly  perceptible  in  the  surrounding 
gloom — a  gigantic  image  of  Gotama  Budha, 
the  man-god  of  Budhism,  reclining  on  his  right 
side,  with  his  right  hand  under  his  head.    There 
was  little  or  nothing  in  the  sculpture  of  the 
figm-e  to  admire,  for  all  was  g  aring  and  exag- 
gerated, but  its  faults  were  hidden  by  the  im- 


HIS  NUMEKOUS  WORSHIPPERS.  77 

perfect  light ;  the  great  fact  which  impressed 
itself  on  my  mind,  and  doubtless  which  impresses 
itself  powerfully  on  the  minds  of  thousands  of 
worshippers,  being,  that  there,  within  two  yards 
of  us,  was  the  image  of  a  man  worshipped  by 
more  votaries  than  any  other  man  or  god,  real 
or  pretended,  that  the  world  has  ever  seen  or 
heard  of !  That  was  the  impression  that  sunk 
deep  into  my  mind,  as  I  gazed,  almost  awe- 
struck with  the  thought,  at  the  huge  uncouth 
figure.  Between  three  and  four  hundred  mil- 
lions of  the  human  race  are  said  to  be  believers 
in  that  wonderful  being,  and  as  many  have 
been  so  for  ages — believers,  not  in  his  good- 
ness, in  his  hoHness,  in  his  wonder-working 
power  merely,  but  behevers  in  him  as  above  all 
gods  and  men ;  "  the  most  exalted  in  the  uni- 
verse ;  the  chief  of  the  universe ;  the  most 
excellent  in  the  universe,"  at  whose  conception 
all  the  worlds  trembled,  a  preternatural  light 
shining  in  each,  the  blind  from  birth  received 
the  power  to  see,  the  deaf  heard  the  joyful 
noise,  the  dumb  burst  forth  into  song,  the  lame 
danced,  the  crooked  became  straight,  those  in 
confinement  were  released  from  their  bonds,*and 
the  fires  of  all  the  hells  became  extinguished  ;* 

*  Hardy's  "  Manual  of  Budhism,"  p.  143. 


78  PROGRESS   OF    BUDHISM, 

and  at  whose  birtli,  men,  angels,  and  gods 
equally  confessed  their  inferiority  and  his  su- 
premacy. The  history  of  the  world  affords 
no  page  more  extraordinary  than  that  which 
records  the  rise  and  progress  of  Budhism  ; 
appearing  to  us  in  these  material,  matter-of- 
fact  days  all  romance  and  falsehood,  but  the 
living  fact  exists  before  our  very  eyes,  and 
although  the  successive  steps  by  which  it 
reached  its  present  greatness  may  be  hidden 
from  us,  unlilvc  the  progress  of  Mohamme- 
danism, for  instance,  yet  its  widespread  diffu- 
sion from  Ceylon  to  China,  from  Malacca  to 
the  Caspian  Sea,  proves  that  it  too  has  strided 
over  the  world  in  grandeur,  and  its  traditions 
assure  us,  not  with  bloody  malignity  and 
violence,  but  mildly,  peacefully,  and  harmlessly. 
Considerations  such  as  these  invest  a  Budhist 
temple  with  a  mystery  and  a  significance  that 
cannot  but  make  it  interesting  to  the  cultivated 
observer. 

The  altar  on  which  the  faithful  make  their 
simple  offerings  of  flowers  stood  at  a  little  dis- 
tance from  the  image,  together  with  a  copper 
iDasin,  in  which  their  donations  of  money  are 
received.  The  walls  were  entirely  covered  with 
paintings,  in  the  stiff  hard  style  of  the  Egyp- 


ALLEGORICAL   PAINTINGS.  79 

tians  and  Assyrians,  althoug-li  with  somewhat 
greater  correctness  of  outhne,  representing,  as 
the  priest  informed  us,  incidents  in  the  life  of 
Grotama,  either  when  on  earth  as  Budha,  or  in 
some  former  state  of  existence.  On  the  outer 
wall  in  a  sort  of  passage  that  surrounded  the 
inner  and  sacred  apartment  were  various  simi- 
larly pictured  scenes,  intended,  according  to 
Miss  Padre,  who  seemed  to  know  all  about 
them,  as  allegorical  representations  of  the  hap- 
piness of  the  blest,  the  advantages  wliich  accrue 
from  embracing  the  faith  of  Grotama,  and  the 
misery  of  the  damned.  Some  of  these  allego- 
rical representations,  if  such  they  really  were, 
were  not  of  a  kind  that  a  European  pubhc 
would  tolerate,  but  Miss  Padre  seemed  quite 
innocent  of  the  fact,  and  it  certainly  was  not 
for  me  to  hint  it.  I  contented  myself  with 
looking  at  them,  as  they  were  described,  won- 
dering, at  the  same  time,  what  the  young  lady's 
ideas  of  indecent  pictures  might  be  if  she  con- 
sidered these  decent — not  that  I  ever  asked 
such  a  question,  or  suggested  a  doubt  on  the 
subject — indeed  I  do  not  suppose  that  so  im- 
perturbable a  soul  as  hers  would  have  been  at 
all  disconcerted  at  the  inquiry,  for,  I  fancy,  she 


80 


THE   DAGOBAH. 


never  supposed  it  possible  that  indecent  figures 
could  be  drawn. 

From  the  wihare  we  directed  our  steps  to 
the  dagohah,  a  large  rounded  mass  of  masoniy 
terminating  in  a  spiral  minaret,  that  ghstened 
brightly  in  the  sun's  rays.  It  was  built,  my 
companion  informed  me,  in  accordance  with 
Budhistic  custom,  over  some  relies  esteemed 
holy — generally  over  the  bones  of  a  saint. 
There  was  little  about  it,  save  its  gigantic  size 
and  strange  form,  to  arrest  attention,  and  as  I 
saw  much  finer  samples  of  the  same  kind  of 
building  subsequently  I  shall  not  stop  to  de- 
scribe it  particularly. 

Our  inspection  of  this  temple  finished,  we 
descended  to  the  beach,  where  the  servants  had 
prepared  a  luncheon  for  us  under  a  banian-tree. 
The  repast,  which  was  an  agreeable  one,  con- 
eluded,  we  returned,  as  we  had  come,  to  Mr. 
Padre's  house,  delighted  with  our  excursion. 


Ji 


PREPARATION  FOR  BUSINESS.  81 


CHAPTEE  III. 

JOURNEY  TO  KANDY. 

"  Our  haste  from  hence  is  of  so  quick  condition, 
That  it  prefers  itself,  and  leaves  unquestioned 
Matters  of  needful  value." — Measure  for  Measure,  act  i.,  sc.  1. 

At  length  it  became  necessary  to  tliink  of 
joining  the  estate  of  which  I  was  aheady  part- 
proprietor,  and  of  which  I  intended,  as  soon  as 
possible,  to  take  the  entire  management  into  my 
own  hands.  My  collegiate  studies  in  England, 
it  is  true,  did  not  appear  to  be  the  best  possible 
preparation  for  such  a  new  and  untried  mode 
of  life,  but  I  was  mistaken.  There  was  not 
so  much  difference  after  all  between  a  wine- 
party  in  college,  and  a  planter's  party  in  the 
jungle.  The  former  a  Httle  rougher,  more 
boisterous  and  more  boyish,  the  latter  a  little 
more  intellectual  often,  and  to  me  more  in- 
teresting from  the  variety  of  character  which 
it  displayed.     I  was  certainly  as  well  prepared 

E  3 


82  TIIE   HOFERS. 

for  cofFee-planting  life  as  three-foui'tlis  of  those 
who  had  already  embraced  it,  whilst,  by  my 
devotion  to  active  physical  exercise  and  to 
study,  I  was  far  better  suited  for  it  than  men 
who  had  abandoned  an  apathetic  Anglo-Indian 
existence  in  the  large  towns  of  the  East,  to 
engage  in  it. 

I  had  met,  whilst  in  Colombo,  an  interesting 
couple,  who,  from  the  contrast  which  they 
exhibited  with  each  other,  powerfully  arrested 
my  attention — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hofer.  Like 
myself,  Mr.  Hofer  had  abandoned  an  English 
home  to  embark  his  capital  and  his  fortunes 
in  coffee-planting,  but  whilst  I  had  come  to 
Ceylon  to  see  what  was  to  me  the  new  world 
of  the  East  as  much  as  to  make  a  fortune,  he, 
on  the  other  hand,  had  already  seen  it,  was 
thoroughly  disgusted  with  it,  and  had  resolved 
to  bury  himself,  as  he  expressed  it,  on  a  coffee- 
estate  for  ten  years.  He  had  been  all  over 
Europe,  and  had  seen  much  of  Asia  and 
America  abeady.  I  regarded  him  with  an 
interest  which  I  could  not  explain  when  I 
heard  him  discoursing,  from  personal  know- 
ledge, of  Broadway,  New  York,  and  of  Chow- 
inghee,  Calcutta.  He  seemed  equally  familiar 
with  Trafalgar  Square  in  London,  the  Place  de 


THE   HOFERS.  83 

la  Concord  in  Paris,  and  the  Neuer  Parade 
Platz  of  Vienna.  His  observations  showed 
that  he  had  gone  through  the  world  with  his 
eyes  open,  and  that  he  had  made  a  good  use  of 
the  opportunities  he  had  had  of  studying  man- 
kind, and  it  was  therefore  with  delight  I  heard 
of  his  having  purchased  land  not  many  miles 
from  Euminacaddee,  the  nearest  post  town  to 
our  estate. 

I  had  a  few  opportunities  of  studying 
Hofer's  character  in  Colombo,  and  many  sub- 
sequently. A  briUiant  fancy,  a  luxm'iant  ima- 
gination, acuteness  of  perception,  warm  but 
regulated  benevolence,  and  an  abiding  sense  of 
justice,  had  all  been  lavished  upon  him  by 
nature  or  developed  by  cultivation,  yet  it  ap- 
peared to  me  that  the  key- stone  of  the  arch 
was  wanting.  The  mind  may  be  compared  to 
the  horse,  the  will  to  the  rider.  It  avails 
nothing  that  we  boast  of  the  powers  of  our 
steed,  of  liis  swiftness,  of  his  endurance,  of  his 
sure-footed  paces,  if  we  cannot  guide  and  con- 
trol him.  The  animal  that  runs  aw^ay  with 
his  rider  may  travel  over  the  most  ground  at 
the  swiftest  rate,  but  the  slower-paced  obeyer 
of  the  rein  is  still  the  more  valuable  of  the 
two.     And  so  of  the  mind.     If  the  will  cannot 


84  CONTRASTED  CHARACTERS. 

control  and  direct  the  other  faculties,  their 
luxuriant  growth  and  power  become  sources 
of  irregular  enjoyment,  but  often  too  of  incon- 
venience, and  result  in  a  want  of  force  of 
character.  He  had  spent  some  months  in  Ja- 
maica to  learn  the  art  of  coffee-planting,  and  he 
had  now  arrived  in  Ceylon  to  turn  his  practical 
knowledge  to  account.  I  was  interested  so 
much,  both  in  him  and  in  his  wife,  that  it  was 
with  extreme  pleasure  I  accepted  his  offer  to 
journey  with  them  to  Kandy. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hofer  had  been  but  four 
months  married.  Their  wedding  trip  was  the 
overland  journey  from  England  to  Ceylon,  and 
the  freshness  of  the  first  months  of  matrimony 
between  the  truly  loving  had  not  as  yet  worn 
off.  A  more  complete  contrast  between  two 
beings,  notwithstanding  their  fitness  for  each 
other,  scarcely  ever  existed.  She  had  never 
left  England  before,  except  to  pay  a  flying 
visit  to  the  Continent,  one  of  those  hurried 
roving  excursions  which  disgust  even  the  oldest 
traveller,  and  implant  indehble  dislike  to  the 
noblest  countries  and  cities,  in  the  breast  of 
the  youngest.  Thus  was  it  with  the  fair 
Emma  Morley.  She  was  hurried  from  place 
to  place,  from  city  to  city,  from   novelty  to 


ROAD   TO   KANDY.  85 

novelty,  until  the  absorbing  "vvish  of  her  heart 
was  to  return  at  once  to  her  peaceful  home  in 
England  again ;  and  when  she  did  so  return, 
nothing  but  the  strong  bond  of  love  could 
have  succeeded  in  once  more  dragging  her 
from  her  beloved  comitry.  Hofer,  then  on  his 
way  from  Jamaica  to  Ceylon,  saw,  and  wooed, 
and  won  her.  He,  the  cosmopolitan,  to  whom 
all  countries  were  equally  indifferent,  and  she, 
the  thoroughly-English  maiden,  shrinking  from 
all  but  English  habits,  alive  to  every  English 
virtue,  nm*tured  from  infancy  in  a  love  and 
admiration  of  every  English  characteristic,  had 
come  together  to  live  in  the  wilderness,  sur- 
rounded by  rude  semi-civiHzed  mountaineers, 
whose  dark  skin  is  not  more  different  from 
ours  than  are  the  constitution  of  their  minds 
and  the  pecuharities  of  their  habits  ! 

The  road  from  Colombo  to  Kandy  leads,  for 
half  its  length,  over  the  even  lowlands  of  the 
coast,  exhibiting  to  the  traveller  on  either  side 
the  usual  aspects  of  tropical  nature.  Eice- 
fields  deluged  with  water,  and  neatl}^  di^dded 
by  thin  httle  mounds  from  each  other,  planta- 
tions of  cocoa-nut  and  areca-nut  trees  with 
thin  graceful  stems  and  umbrella-like  waving 
branches  at  the   top — long  strips  of  land  in 


86  ROAD   TO   KAXDY. 

cultivation  here  and  there  amidst  these,  loaded 
with  various  vegetables  unknown  to  temperate 
regions,  some  protected  partially  from  tlie  sun 
by  coverings,  others  wooing  its  fiery  rays ;  and 
above  them  all,  the  great  luminary  himself, 
small,  of  a  white  heat,  fierce  in  his  scorcliing 
vigour,  and  casting  a  glow  over  the  whole  sky, 
blue  though  it  was,  which  rendered  it  almost 
impossible  to  turn  the  eye  upward  in  any 
direction.  Although  the  forms  of  the  vegeta- 
tion and  the  aspect  of  the  country  were  equally 
new,  yet  there  was  a  monotony  about  this 
first  day's  journey,  in  consequence  of  the  level 
character  of  the  district,  which  we  did  not  sub- 
sequently experience.  Now  and  then  a  group 
of  natives,  naked  generally  to  the  waist,  varie- 
gated the  scene,  their  dark  skins,  and  the  bright 
colours  of  the  handkerchiefs  worn  on  their 
heads,  or  as  girdles,  being  in  vivid  contrast  to 
each  other,  whilst  men,  women,  and  cliildren, 
as  they  proceeded,  seemed  all  equally  at  a  loss 
for  time  to  say  all  that  they  had  to  say,  so 
rapid  and  incessant  was  their  talking. 

We  stopped  for  the  night  at  a  bungalow,  half- 
way between  Colombo  and  Kandy,  beautifully 
situated  in  a  valley,  formed  by  a  semicircular 
group  of  hills,  amongst  wliicli  the  road  wound 


MOONLIGHT  NIGHT.  87 

on  to  the  east  in  its  uninterrupted  course.  As 
the  sun  sank,  large,  clear  and  unclouded  in  the 
west,  the  full  moon  rose  with  a  splendour  pecu- 
Harly  her  own  in  the  clear  air  of  the  tropics, 
upon  the  east.  I  know  not  how  to  give  an 
idea  of  the  loveliness  of  that  night,  as  we  en- 
joyed it,  walking  in  the  verandah  of  the  bunga- 
low, and  bathing  as  it  were  in  the  flood  of  silver 
glory  poui'ed  down  so  profusely  by  the  pale 
queen  of  night  upon  the  earth  ?  Not  even  upon 
the  ocean  have  I  witnessed  a  splendour  equal 
to  that !  The  stars  tmnkled  dimlj  here  and 
there,  obscured  by  the  more  powerful  beams  of 
the  moon,  whilst  the  whole  earth  seemed  lit  up 
with  intensely  burnished  silver  mirrors,  reflect- 
ing floods  of  hght  in  every  direction.  The 
dark  shadows  on  the  hill  sides  were  rendered 
still  darker  by  the  soft  glow  which  diffused 
itself  equally  upon  all  the  salient  points  of  the 
landscape.  If  one  could  choose,  where  all  was 
lovehness,  perhaps  the  palm  trees  presented  the 
most  strikingly  new  and  bewitching  aspect. 
Their  long  graceful  leaves,  wet  with  dew,  shone 
with  a  mild  radiance  as  the  flood  of  light  was 
poured  down  upon  them,  whilst,  between  their 
ever  moving  branches,  the  rays  of  the  moon 
made  their  way  timidly  as  it  were  to  the  earth. 


88  NIGHT   SOUNDS. 

where  an  exact  impression  of  the  graceful 
tracery  above  was  pictured  out  upon  the  grass 
in  black  and  silver,  never  at  rest,  but  always 
lovely.  All  nature  seemed  to  enjoy  the  glorious 
spectacle. — "  Most  glorious  night,"  I  involun- 
tarily exclaimed  with  the  poet,  "  thou  wert  not 
sent  for  slumber."  From  the  minutest  insects 
in  the  air  to  the  hugest  denizens  of  the  forest, 
all  seemed  equally  impressed  with  the  same 
idea,  that  it  were  treason  to  the  majesty  of 
nature  not  to  enjoy  such  a  scene.  The  air  was 
filled  at  intervals  with  the  various  noises  that  a 
luxuriant  tropical  fauna  alone  can  produce ; 
bellowing  from  the  woods,  the  wild  shriek  or 
shrill  cry  of  the  monkeys  minghng  there  with 
the  trumpeting  of  the  elephant ;  croakings  from 
the  river  and  marshes ;  loud  buzzings  from  the 
trees  and  air ;  whilst  birds  called  to  and  an- 
swered each  other  with  incessant  rapidity :  all 
intermingled  and  alternated  with  each  other  at 
intervals,  between  which  a  silence  as  of  uni- 
versal awe  or  death,  crept  over  the  landscape — 
the  nearer  and  sharper  sounds  ceased,  the  silent 
circle  widened,  and  gradually  the  more  distant 
reverberations  ended,  and  then  there  was  a  per- 
fect calm  for  a  time,  holy,  pure,  and  exciting  in  its 
peacefulness  so  different  from  the  tumult  which 


CONNUBIAL   HAPPINESS.  89 

preceded  and  succeeded  it.  The  scene  is  stamped 
upon  my  mind  still,  and  will  probably  never  be 
effaced.  And  yet  I  have  not  mentioned  tlie  most 
exquisite  of  all  the  scenes  of  that  bright  evening  ! 
It  was  love  that  lent  its  charm  to  the  whole. 
I  was  the  witness  of  the  happiness  of  two  noble 
specimens  of  our  race,  as  they  reflected  love  from 
each  other's  eyes,  drinking  in  deep  draughts  of 
the  intoxicating  sentiment  with  every  glance. 
It  would  have  been  a  sin  on  such  an  evening 
not  to  be  grateful  and  happy,  and  no  shade  of 
jealousy  darkened  my  heart  as  I  rejoiced  with 
thera  in  that  glorious  prospect.  I  had  never 
seen  the  lady  otherwise  than  as  the  companion 
of  her  husband,  and  therefore  I  looked  upon 
their  love  and  relationship  as  a  natural  thing, 
which  did  not  interfere  with  me,  and  which,  if 
wise,  I  too  could  afar  off,  participate  in,  or,  at 
all  events,  sympathize  with.  When  I  saw  her 
face  shining  in  the  pale  moonbeams,  her  spark- 
ling eyes  and  black  hair,  contrasting  vividly 
with  the  pure  whiteness  of  her  brow,  and  of  her 
neck,  and  whilst  I  felt  her  warm  hand  resting 
on  my  thinly  covered  arm,  I  looked  upon  her 
as  I  looked  upon  the  landscape,  as  an  object  of 
loveliness,  on  wliich  my  eyes  might  feast,  and 
which  memory  might  treasure  in  my  heart,  but 


90  CONVERSATION  ON 

wMch  nearer  approach  would  probably  but 
sully  or  disturb.  As  I  saw  her  gaze  directed 
towards  the  stars,  and  heard  her  sigh,  saying, 
that  she  was  sorry  she  had  not  studied  astrology, 
yes,  sigh  in  the  very  wantonness  of  happiness, 
and  as  I  saw  the  clear  intelUgent  eye  and  brow 
of  her  husband  turned  towards  her,  whilst  a 
good-humoured  smile  played  around  his  hps,  I 
felt  that  we  require  but  a  sensitive  heart  to 
enjoy  the  happiness  of  others,  and  that  he  must 
have  a  bad  one  who  cannot  see  that  happiness 
without  enYj. 

"  My  husband  smiles  at  the  idea  of  astrology, 
do  you  not  think  there  is  more  in  that  '  poetry 
of  heaven,'  "  said  she,  turning  to  me,  "  than  he 
is  willing  to  admit  ?" 

"  You  are  too  polite,  I  am  sure,  to  say  there 
is  nothing  in  it,  after  such  an  appeal,"  said  he, 
quickly ;  "  but,  Emma,  I  am  equally  sure  your 
own  reason  declares  to  you  the  folly  and 
absurdity  of  the  pretended  science." 

"  My  reason,  as  it  has  been  cultivated,  may," 
was  her  reply,  "  but  my  heart,  my  dear  Ernest, 
wishes  it  were  otherwise,  and  often  tells  me 
that  it  is  so." 

"  The  heart  is  an  erring  guide  in  matters  of 
science,"  said  he. 


ASTROLOGY.  91 

"Why  should  it  be  so?"  she  asked.  "Is 
there,  then,  an  opposition  between  the  two  ?  if 
so,  God  grant  I  may  ever  follow  the  dictates  of 
the  heart,  and  leave  the  reason,  with  its  cold, 
selfish,  calculating  wisdom,  behind  me.  The 
heart  is  everywhere  the  same,  whilst  reason 
differs  everywhere.  The  heart  prompted  a 
thousand  years  ago  as  it  prompts  now ;  reason, 
a  thousand  years  ago,  taught  a  hundred  things 
which  it  laughs  at  now.  I,  at  all  events,  will 
cherish  the  unchangeable." 

"  Your  German  philosophy,  my  dear  Emma," 
he  m'ged,  "  has  misled  you.  There  is  no  oppo- 
sition between  the  two — the  cultivated  heart 
and  cultivated  reason  say  one  and  the  same 
thing — at  least,  the  more  they  are  cultivated  the 
more  nearly  they  assimilate." 

"What  do  you  think  on  the  subject?"  he 
added,  turning  to  me. 

Thus  directly  appealed  to,  I  could  not  avoid 
the  discussion  further,  although  I  feared  it 
might  lead  to  dangerous  ground. 

"  I  am  inclined  to  agree  with  Mrs.  Hofer's 
German  philosophy,  as  you  call  it,"  said  I, 
"  that  where  the  heart  and  the  head  differ,  the 
former  is  to  be  preferred.  The  impulses  of  the 
heart,  eminently   subjective  as   they  are,    are 


92  COXVEESATION  OX 

more  likely  to  be  true  than  tlie  reasonings, 
purely  objective,  for  tlie  most  part,  of  the  head. 
But  both  certainly  require  cultivation,  and  the 
due  cultivation  of  the  heart  appears  to  me  to  be 
a  far  more  difficult  thing  than  that  of  the  head. 
As  to  astrology,  there  is  something  fascinating 
and  poetical  in  the  supposition  that  our  destinies 
are  written  in  the  everlasting  firmament ;  but 
is  it  not  making  ourselves  of  too  much,  and  the 
stars  of  too  little  importance,  to  conceive  such  a 
thing  possible  ?" 

"  Like  my  husband,"  Mrs.  Hofer  replied, 
"  you  are  a  sceptic,  with  reference  to  man's 
higher  and  nobler  nature ;  you  have  no  belief 
in  that  inner  world  which  shadows  forth  so 
truly  the  outer.  Did  I  assert  that  the  stars 
were  there — there,  in  that  glorious  canopy," 
said  she,  disengaging  her  hand  from  my  arm, 
and  stopping  to  point  to  them,  "  merely  that 
man  might  read  his  destiny  in  them,  there 
would  be  truth  in  your  objection — but  no,  I 
beheve  they  are  there  for  other  and  infinitely 
hoher  and  higher  purposes.  Is  it  not,  however, 
consistent  with  the  divine  economy  of  nature, 
that  one  thing  should  serve  many  ends,  and  do 
we  not  see  a  thousand  examples  of  such  on 
earth?" 


ASTROLOGY  AND  ASTRONOMY.         93 

"  There  is  much  ingenuity,  but  little  logic 
in  your  observation,"  repHed  Hofer.  "  Astro- 
nomy reveals  too  much  of  the  stars  to  permit 
astrology  to  be  true,  and  if  astrology  be  true,  all 
our  modern  science  is  false." 

"  And  that  same  modern  science,"  I  observed, 
"  I  fear  Mrs.  Hofer  will  regard  as  destroying 
all  the  poetry  of  life." 

"  Yes,"  she  replied,  "  material  science  goes  far 
to  do  so,  but  not  mental.  I  fear  it  is  too  often 
forgotten,  however,  that  astrology  was  once  the 
universal  belief  of  mankind,  and  is  still  believed 
in  by  a  majority  of  the  human  race." 

"  That, "  said  her  husband,  "  cannot  be 
allowed  to  be  an  argument  in  favour  of  its 
truth.  A  thousand  bubbles  float  over  the  heads 
of  mankind  for  centuries,  are  admired,  examined, 
believed  in,  sung,  and  praised  enthusiastically, 
and  at  last,  burst  to  be  seen  no  more;— -nay, 
men  have  fought,  stranghng  each  other  with 
death-grips,  to  seize  such  bubbles,  and  lo ! 
when  they  touch  them,  they  dissolve  into  thin 
air,  and  leave  not  a  wrack  behind." 

"  Well,"  said  his  fair  partner,  gaily,  "  the 
Budhists  are  astrologers ;  I  will  learn  the 
science  of  them,  at  all  events,  during  my  resi- 
dence in  the  jungle,  and  then  I  shall  be  better 


94  ROAD   TO   KANDY — 

able  to  contest  the  point.  In  the  meantime, 
although  our  hearts  would  prompt  us  to  remain 
here  all  night,  basking  in  this  lovely  moon- 
light, yet  our  heads  tell  us,  if  we  are  to  journey 
early  to-morrow,  we  had  better  retire.  There 
is  no  opposition,  you  see,  between  them ;  shall 
we  obey  both  ?" 

"  A  truly  feminine  method  of  concluding  the 
argument,"  said  her  husband,  as  they  bid  me 
adieu,  leaving  me  to  meditate  a  Httle  longer  in 
the  moonlight. 

The  road,  from  the  bungalow  at  which  we 
passed  the  night,  to  Kandy,  lay  through  some 
of  the  wildest  and  noblest  mountain  scenes  in 
the  East.  Indeed  the  difficulties  in  the  way 
of  its  construction,  presented  by  the  nature  of 
the  country,  were  such  that  it  has  been  justly 
styled  the  "  Simplon  of  the  East."  We  were 
amply  repaid  for  the  monotony  of  the  previous 
day's  travel,  and  as  we  got  deeper  and  deeper 
amongst  "  the  everlasting  hills,"  our  spirits 
became  invigorated  and  our  bodies  refreshed, 
by  the  cooler  air  and  more  variegated  land- 
scape. Such  was  the  steepness  of  the  way  in 
some  places,  that  we  preferred  leaving  our 
carriage,  and  proceeding  on  foot,  often  gaining 
the  brow  of  an  eminence  in  this  way,   from 


ITS   DIFFICULTIES.  95 

wliicli  an  extensive  view  could  be  obtained  on 
every  side.  From  this  eminence,  the  plains  we 
had  left  became  gradually  more  and  more  ap- 
parent, stretching  far  to  the  west,  in  an  ever- 
widening  prospect,  whilst,  before  us,  the  rugged 
and  confused  mountain  masses  rose,  more  and 
more  irregularly  and  with  greater  vastness  and 
wildness.  "  There  is  more  of  the  stern  reality 
of  nature  here  than  one  sees  in  Jamaica,"  said 
Hofer,  "  where  cultivation,  at  least  along  the 
ordinary  highways,  is  more  extended  and  uni- 
versal than  in  Ceylon."  Now  and  then  we 
skirted  the  edge  of  a  primeval  forest  that 
stretched  far  away  amongst  the  hills  and 
valleys,  presenting  a  rich  contrast,  in  its 
gorgeous  green  hvery,  to  the  naked  rocks 
and  bleak  mountain  sides,  with  which  it  was 
often  associated.  In  many  places  the  moun- 
tain rose  almost  perpendicularly  upon  the  left, 
wliilst  on  the  right,  from  the  edge  of  the  road 
on  which  we  stood,  it  descended,  bleak,  fearful, 
and  precipitous,  to  the  valley  beneath ;  not  even 
a  rail,  nothing  but  a  few  scanty  bushes,  sown 
and  nm'tm'ed  by  nature  on  the  hill-side,  inter- 
vening between  the  traveller  and  destruction. 
It  is  a  grand  sight  to  see  the  mountain  tor- 
rents, in  such  situations,  rushing  impetuously 


96  PASS  OF   KADUGANAVA. 

down  tlie  sides  of  the  hills,  foaming  ou  thci.' 
way  as  if  chafed  by  the  opposition  of  the  rocks 
and  the  vegetation  which  impede  their  pro- 
gress. Eoaring  here  over  a  stony  bed,  there 
leaping  indignantly  from  one  crag  to  another, 
as  if  determined  on  snccess — at  one  time  cooped 
up  in  a  deep,  narrow  gorge  hoarsely  complain- 
ing, bnt  still  struggling  onwards, — at  another, 
spreading  out  into  a  wider  reservoir,  as  if  peace 
had  been  attained  at  last,  and  it  were  content. 
But,  no,  ever  restless,  ever  changing,  like  the 
world  of  which  it  forms  a  part,  it  finds  a  vent 
somewhere,  and  resumes  its  brawling,  strug- 
gling, character,  until  lost  in  the  river  or  the 
ocean.  What  an  illustration,  I  have  often 
thought,  of  the  headlong  career  of  passion  ? 

The  pass  of  Kaduganava  is  one  of  the  great 
engineering  feats  of  the  road.  So  rocky  and 
precipitous  were  the  mountains  on  either  side, 
— so  narrow,  rugged,  and  uncompromising  the 
deep  dells  between  them — that  it  was  only  by 
continued  blasting,  a  way  could  be  torn  out  of 
the  sides  of  the  hills.  Indeed,  in  one  place, 
a  complete  tunnel  was  thus  formed  tlu'ough 
a  mass  of  rock,  that  reminds  one  of  the  side  of 
a  gigantic  elephant,  and  wliicli  now  stretches 
over  the  road,  joining  the  almost  perpendicular 


PASS   OF   KADUGANAVA.  97 

Heights  above,  with  the  equally  precipitous  de- 
clivities below.  "  The  nation  that  can  make 
a  road  from  Colombo  to  Kandy,  through  the 
Kaduganava  pass,"  said  an  old  Singhalese  pro- 
verb, "  wiR  ever  be  the  rulers  of  Ceylon."  The 
road  is  made,  and  its  makers  are  the  rulers  of 
the  fair  island, — "  the  pearl  drop  on  the  brow  of 
India,"  as  its  people  delight  to  call  it, — but  all 
that  is  contained  in  that  little  word  "  ever," 
can  never,  as  long  as  time  lasts,  be  fulfilled. 
Fearful  is  it  to  stand  on  the  edge  of  the  fairy- 
like road  that  creeps  so  modestly  along  the 
hill  side,  and  look  down  into  the  awful  chasm 
below.  The  tops  of  a  few  ])ushes  present  them- 
selves at  a  considerable  depth,  deeper  down  a 
few  rocks,  and  the  indistinctly- seen  form  of  a 
torrent,  making  its  way  below — deeper  still  a 
dun,  dark  haze,  impenetrable  to  the  sight,  in 
which  all  distinct  vision  is  lost,  but  fi-om  the 
depths  of  that  vast  chasm  come  up  the  con- 
fused sounds  of  the  strife  of  elements  waged 
there  incessantly — water  and  rocks  in  never- 
ending  conflict,  battling  with  each  other,  the 
weaker  ever  eating  into  and  wearing  away 
the  stronger  in  its  persevering  flow.  One 
shudders  while  fancying  the  sensations  that 
would  accompany  a  fall  into  that  deejD  dell — 

VOL.  I.  F 


98  COFFEE   ESTATES. 

the  lieadlong  passing  by  the  quivering  tops  of 
the  bushes  seen  far  beneath — ^the  rapid  gy- 
rations, as  whii'ling  downwards  to  destruction, 
rocks,  trees,  chasms,  and  smooth  mountain 
sides  would  be  passed — the  bhnd  plunging 
into  the  depths,  beneath  which  the  eye  cannot 
pierce,  and  in  which  imagination  is  almost 
lost ;  a  fitting  emblem  of  the  grave  which 
would  assuredly  be  found  at  the  bottom, 
wherever  that  may  be,  or  if  bottom  there  be 
to  it  at  all. 

On  the  sides  of  this  celebrated  pass,  as  well 
as  upon  its  summit,  there  are  several  valuable 
coffee  estates,  on  one  of  which  we  were  hos- 
pitably entertained  during  the  heat  of  the  day ; 
and  as  the  drive  thence  to  Kandy  was  short 
and  easy,  we  prolonged  our  stay  with  its  kind 
inmates  far  into  the  evening.  Mr.  Massey, 
the  proprietor  and  superintendent  of  the  estate 
at  wliich  we  stopped,  gave  us  a  hearty  welcome; 
and  as  the  Hofers  had  met  him  and  his  wife  in 
Colombo,  the  greeting  between  them  was  like 
that  of  old  friends  rather  than  of  only  casual 
acquaintances.  Out  of  Europe  Englishmen  ap- 
pear to  me  to  form  friendships  sooner  than  any 
other  portion  of  mankind.  Aware,  probably, 
that  they  differ  from  every  other  class  of  the 


THE   PAEAHAEA   ESTATE.  99 

human  species  in  many  notable  respects,  the}" 
who  would  frown  at  each  other  without  knowing 
why  in  England,  will  cordially  extend  the  hand, 
and  welcome  with  a  bright  smde  their  com- 
patriots in  the  far  East  or  West.  So  it  was  in 
the  present  instance.  Hofer  and  Massey  had 
little  in  common,  except  that  they  were  coifee- 
planters  ;  yet  their  greeting  was  of  the  most 
cordial  character.  Mrs.  Hofer  and  Mrs.  Massey 
were  still  more  dissimilar  ;  but  they  were  both 
Englishwomen  in  Ceylon,  and  this  appeared  a 
sufficient  reason  for  their  intimacy  and  friend- 
ship. 

The  bungalow  of  the  Parahara  estate,  as 
Mr.  Massey's  was  called,  was  well  situated  on 
the  side  of  the  liill,  a  deep  mass  of  the  primeval 
forest  rising  behind  it,  and  the  estate  stretch- 
ing on  each  side  and  below,  in  a  wide  amphi- 
theatre. From  the  opposite  hill,  as  we  ap- 
proached, the  effect  was  extremely  picturesque  ; 
and  one  coidd  scarcely  help  thinking,  on  look- 
ing at  it,  that,  with  a  suitable  companion,  any 
man  alive  to  the  beauties  of  nature  might 
spend  his  life  happily  there,  did  not  experience 
too  probably  cut  short  the  reflection  by  asking 
whether  happiness  depended  upon  external  cir- 

F  2 


100  COFFEE   ESTATE. 

cumstances  in  any  great,  or  even  more  trivial, 
degree  ? 

As  we  drove  up  to  the  verandah,  three  fair- 
haired  children,  their  looks  telling  of  northern 
lands  and  more  bracing  climates,  were  playing 
in  it,  watched  and  attended  by  as  many  native 
servants.  One  female  and  two  males,  at  all 
events,  we  saw  pajdng  the  usual  attention  of 
bonnes  to  their  little  charges,  b}^  laughing  and 
chatting  in  the  corner,  whilst  "  Misse  Mary  " 
was  on  the  point  of  poking  out  Httle  "  Masse 
Henry's  "  eye  with  a  pair  of  scissors  she  had 
picked  up  somewhere,  in  vainly  essaying  to  clip 
his  somewhat  redundant  locks.  Our  arrival 
created,  of  course,  a  general  sensation,  and  a 
dispersion  of  the  verandah  group.  The  ayah, 
or  native  female  servant  (catcliing  up  "  Httle 
Masse  Henry  "  just  as  he  was  on  the  point 
of  shrilly  screaming  forth  his  disapprobation 
of  his  sister's  scissors'  performance),  went  to 
inform  her  mistress  of  our  arrival.  The  two 
well-bearded  and  moustached  guardians  of  the 
other  pledges  gazed  intently  on  the  equipage, 
on  the  coachman,  on  the  foreign  mahathmas* 
on  the  servants  that  brought  up  the  rear,  whilst 

*  The  Singhalese  saheh  or  Mr. 


J 


HOSPITABLE   RECEPTION.  101 

they  talked  incessantly  to  each  other,  the  one 
stroking  his  fine  black  beard,  the  other  vigor- 
ously engaged  in  scratching  his  head,  and  then 
examining  his  nails. 

Mrs.  Massey  soon  made  her  appearance,  and 
welcomed  us.  She  was  one  of  those  women 
who  at  thirty  contrive  to  look  as  if  they  were 
between  forty  and  fifty,  and  then  often  retain 
precisely  the  same  expression  of  countenance 
for  tliirty  years  more. 

"  I  knew  you  would  be  here  about  this 
time,"  said  she,  "  and  I  told  WiUiam  so  ;  but 
he  would  go  to  look  after  the  new  sowings  : 
men,  but  particularly  coffee-planters,  are  so 
obstinate." 

"  Especially  when  there  are  new  sowings  to 
look  after,  I  fancy,"  said  Hofer,  bowing. 

"  0,  they  are  never  without  excuses,  Mr. 
Hofer,  as  Mrs.  Hofer  will  one  day  find,"  said 
our  hostess,  leading  the  lady  off,  and  giving 
directions  to  the  servants  respecting  our  enter- 
tainment. 

Mr.  Massey,  a  plain  burly  man  of  about 
fifty,  shortly  after  made  his  appearance,  in  the 
orthodox  plantation  dress  of  a  Ceylon  cofiee- 
planter ;    that  is   to   say,   with  coarse   canvas 


102  JUNGLE   DRESS, 

shoes,  and  leech  gaiters  tied  over  the  checked 
pantaloons  at  the  knee,  a  short  coat  of  a  similar 
check,  a  black  belt  at  the  waist,  and  a  pith  hat 
that  defied  the  sun.  There  is  much  to  be  said 
for  the  comfort  of  this  dress  and  its  adaptation 
to  jungle  wear ;  but  much  certainly  could  not 
be  said  for  its  appearance  on  the  person  of  our 
friend  Massey.  A  rotund  stomach  of  large 
dimensions  loomed  still  larger  over  the  tightly- 
fitting  gaiters,  and  made  a  ridiculous  contrast 
— "  a  barrel  balanced  on  a  pair  of  tongs,"  was 
the  simile  by  which  Hofer  subsequently  de- 
scribed it,  although  I  willingly  confess  there 
was  much  exaggeration  in  the  comparison. 

"  Well,  Mr.  Massey,'*  said  his  spouse,  on 
first  observing  him,  "  did  I  not  tell  you  they 
would  be  here  this  morning  ?  Yet  you  would 
go  out." 

"  You  are  always  right,  my  love,"  he  pru- 
dently answered,  whilst  Hofer  and  his  wife 
exchanged  amused  glances.  "  You  are  always 
right,  my  love.  I  trust  dinner  is  nearly 
ready." 

The  fair  dame  was  mollified  by  her  husband's 
prudent  submission,  and  calling  a  servant, 
.Tayatillike    by    name,   told   him   to   teU   the 


A   FRENCH  PLANTER.  103 

appoo*  or  butler,  to  hurry  the  dinner  as  much 
as  possible. 

As  good  a  dinner  as  a  well-kept  estate  in  the 
jungle  could  afford  was  speedily  provided,  and 
we  attacked  it  with  appetites  such  as  a  moun- 
tain journey  can  alone  supply.  After  it  had 
been  discussed,  the  conversation  turned  on  our 
estate,  and  on  my  uncle's  measures  respecting 
it,  which  met  with  but  quahfied  praise. 

"  I  was  there,"  said  our  host  to  me,  "  when 
your  uncle's  partner,  Mr.  Roquelaire,  the  French- 
man, died ;  and  a  more  melancholy  scene  it  has 
never  been  my  lot  to  witness." 

"  I  heard  that  it  was,  indeed,  a  lamentable 
occurrence,"  said  I,  "  although  I  have  not  been 
able  to  arrive  at  all  the  particulars." 

"  Mr.  Eoquelaire,"  said  our  host,  "  had  been 
in  the  island  for  many  years.  He  was  an 
experienced  Java  planter,  and,  like  all  of  us, 
had  hoped  to  make  enough  to  enable  him  to 
return  to  his  native  land,  and  settle  there,  in  the 
prime  of  hfe.  His  first  speculation  in  Ceylon, 
however,  was  a  failure,  owing  to  the  caprice 
which  directed  the  making  of  roads  in  the 
neighbourhood.  He  spent  much  money  upon 
an  extensive  piece  of  forest  land;   and  had  it 

*  The  Appoo  corresponds  to  the  Indian  Khansamah. 


104  DRAMA   OF   REAL   LIFE. 

been  made  accessible  by  a  high-road  running 
near  it,  as  he  and  every  one  else  expected,  for 
the  estimates  had  been  already  prepared,  and 
Government  had  announced  its  intention  of 
prosecuting  the  work,  it  would  have  been  a 
most  valuable  possession.  The  engineer  had 
advised  the  construction  of  the  road  as  I  have 
said — the  estimates  were  sent  in — nay,  a  com- 
mencement had  actually  been  made  in  its 
formation — when  the  Colonial  Secretary,  unfor- 
tunately for  poor  Eoquelaire,  bought  a  piece  of 
land,  at  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles  from  his, 
and  the  road  suddenly  diverged  in  that  direc- 
tion, forsaking  the  neighbourhood  of  Eoque- 
laire's  property,  and  the  valley  in  which  it 
was  situated,  altogether.  Others  were  equally 
aggrieved  with  himself.  The  case  was  brought 
before  the  Legislative  Council,  but  the  Govern- 
ment majority  carried  the  day  against  the 
planters,  and  there  was  no  redress.  A  private 
road  was  then  talked  of,  but  was  only  talked 
of;  and  as  it  would  have  been  too  extensive 
for  Roquelaire  alone  to  have  undertaken,  he 
entered  into  partnership  with  your  uncle,  and 
opened  the  estate  for  him ;  and  a  more  flourish- 
ing plantation,  up  to  the  period  of  his  death, 
did  not  exist  in  Ceylon." 


DRAMA   OF   REAL   LIFE.  105 

"  Resolved,  tlien,  to  settle  in  the  island,  he 
wrote  to  France,  asking  a  young  lady,  to  whom 
he  had,  from  her  infancy  almost,  been  attached, 
to  hnk  her  lot  with  his,  and  she  consented. 
Louise  Morin  was  a  Parisienne,  delicate,  finely- 
formed,  and  sphHtuelle.  Having  made  ac- 
quaintance with  an  English  family  going  to 
Bombay,  she  accompanied  them  overland. 
Boquelaire  was  counting  the  days  that  would 
intervene  before  he  could  lead  his  bride  from 
Colombo  to  the  estate,  where  he  had  fitted  up 
his  bungalow  with  exquisite  taste  for  her  recep- 
tion. Ere  it  came  near  the  time  for  the  arrival 
of  our  little  island  steamer  with  the  mails  and 
passengers  from  Bombay,  he  had  prepared  every- 
thing for  his  departure  to  Colombo  to  meet  her. 
It  was  on  a  Monday  that  he  was  to  have  left  the 
estate ;  on  the  Satm^day  previous,  with  two 
friends  who  had  joined  him  for  the  purpose,  as 
it  was  an  idle  period  of  the  year,  he  went  out 
elephant-shooting,  a  sport  of  which  he  was 
particularly  fond.  One  of  his  companions  was 
a  rash  young  fellow,  a  countryman  of  his,  who 
unnecessarily  exposed  himself  to  danger.  The 
elephants  were  being  driven  up  the  hill  by  the 
beaters,  near  the  summit  of  which  stood 
Eoquelaire  and  his  companions,  at  some  dis- 

r3 


106  DANGERS  ATTENDANT  OX 

tance  from  each  other.  Eoquelaire  brought  one 
down  in  a  moment  with  the  two  barrels  of  his 
never-faihng  rifle,  and  having  leaped  upon  a 
crag  to  avoid  the  death-rush  of  his  huge  foe,  he 
saw  his  young  friend  in  imminent  danger.  He 
had  awaited,  like  his  more  experienced  compan- 
ions, the  approach  of  an  elephant,  and  had  fired, 
but  without  their  precision,  and  a  large  tusker 
was  rapidly  approaching  him,  mad  with  pain 
and  rage.  Some  rocks  were  near,  amongst 
wliich  the  inexperienced  youth  clambered; 
but  the  elephant  was  intent  on  pursuit,  and, 
had  it  not  been  for  Roquelaire's  devotion  and 
heroism,  he  would  probably  have  lost  his  life. 
As  it  was,  the  immediate  advance  of  Eoquelaire, 
with  a  fresh  rifle,  turned  the  attention  of  the 
monster  upon  himself,  and,  as  the  broad  fore- 
head of  the  enraged  animal  was  turned  directly 
towards  him,  the  experienced  sportsman  felt  no 
fears  for  himself.  The  unerring  rifle  was  raised, 
and  a  zinc  bullet  was  sent  du'ectly  into  the 
brain.  Roquelaire  turned  to  avoid  the  dying 
struggles  and  convulsive  rush  forward  of  the 
wounded  animal,  but  an  unobserved  creeper 
caught  his  foot,  and  he  feU  directly  in  the 
elephant's  path.  He  had  no  time  to  raise  him- 
self again,  for  the  tottering  monster  advanced 


ELEPHANT  SHOOTING.  107 

with  wonderful  rapidity,  and  feU  dead  dii'ectly 
upon  the  body  of  his  destroyer, 

"  It  was  some  time  ere  poor  Roquelaire  could 
be  released  from  his  terrible  situation ;  he  was 
perfectly  insensible,  and  his  companions  be- 
lieved him  dead  as  they  carried  him  to  the 
bungalow;  but  it  was  not  so.  The  natives 
speedily  succeeded  in  restoring  symptoms  of 
life,  and  a  medical  man  was  procm'ed,  with  as 
Httle  delay  as  possible,  from  Kandy.  But 
irreparable  injury  had  been  done — some  of  the 
bones  of  the  chest  were  broken — and  no  hopes 
were  held  out  of  ultimate  recovery,  although 
no  idea  could  be  given  as  to  when  death  would 
actuaU}"  occur. 

"  The  bodily  torture  which  Roquelaire  en- 
dured was  nothing  compared  with  his  mental 
anxiety,  and  this  mental  anxiety,  the  sm-geon 
assured  me,  hastened  his  death.  Knowing  that 
his  bride  was  now  near  Ceylon,  he  was  mad- 
dened at  the  idea  of  her  landing  alone  in 
Colombo,  and  of  her  probably  being  left,  by  his 
death,  without  a  friend  in  the  island.  The 
name  of  Louise  Morin  was  ever  on  his  hps,  and 
the  idea  of  her,  doubtless,  filled  his  heart. 

"  Your  uncle  received  the  bride  on  her  arrival 
in  Colombo,  and  broke  the  intelligence  to  her 


103  DRAMA   OF  REAL   LIFE 

as  delicately  as  possible.  AYhat  a  reviilsion 
must  it  have  caused  in  her  mind !  She  had 
been  looking  out  for  Colombo  with  high  hopes 
of  seeing  her  affianced  lover  anxiously  awaiting 
her,  of  meeting  with  a  bride's  welcome,  when 
alas !  that  of  the  widow  was  in  store  for  her. 
She  called  here  on  her  way  to  the  estate,  and  I 
accompanied  her  during  the  rest  of  her  jour- 
ney." 

"  Leaving  me  at  a  very  critical  period,  I 
must  add,"  said  Mrs.  Massey,  "  but  then 
Mademoiselle  Morin  was  really  very  enchant- 
ing, every  one  said." 

"  The  poor  girl  was  bathed  in  tears  almost 
the  whole  way,"  continued  the  impertm'bable 
Massey,  unheeding  the  interruption  ;  "  at 
Kandy  we  heard  that  Roquelaire  was  better, 
and  as  no  one  could  venture  to  tell  her  that 
there  was  no  chance  of  permanent  recovery,  she 
passed  at  once  from  the  extreme  depths  of  de- 
jection to  aU  the  wildness  of  unbridled  hope. 

"  It  was  towards  evening  when  we  arrived 
at  your  estate  on  horseback,  for  the  road  was 
impassable  for  a  carriage — we  dismounted  at 
some  distance  from  the  bungalow  that  the 
patient  might  not  be  excited  by  the  sound 
of  the  horses'  feet.     As  we  entered  his  bed- 


DRAMA   OF    REAL   LIFE.  109 

room  softly,  the  surgeon  was  sitting  by  his 
side — Eoquelaire's  face  was  turned  from  us, 
as  he  gazed  at  the  setting  sun,  now  half 
concealed  by  the  forest — he  looked  round,  and 
saw  his  bride  who  had  just  completed  her 
long  journey  from  Paris  to  Ceylon  to  be  his  ! 
'  My  Louise,  my  Louise  !'  he  exclaimed  in 
French,  as  she  bent  over  him,  hot  tears  drop- 
ping from  her  eyes  as  she  kissed  his  flushed 
cheek.  '  I  am  happy  now,  very  happy,'  said 
he,  faintly,  '  and,  doubtless,  all  will  yet  be 
well.'  She  could  not  say  a  single  word,  but 
contented  herself  with  pressing  his  hand  in 
her  own.  '  Have  you  seen  the  bungalow?' 
he  asked.  '  Do  you  like  Ceylon?  Shall  we 
not  be  happy,  very  happy  here  ?  0  my  Louise,' 
— the  lips  faintly  moved  further,  and  she  bent 
down  to  hear  his  words — there  was  a  pause — 
she  lifted  her  head,  and,  with  a  terrible  calm- 
ness, said  to  us — '  he  is  dead.'  It  was  even  so  ! 
The  conflict  was  over,  the  joy  of  seeing  her 
had  been  too  much  for  him ;  but  nothing,  the 
sm'geon  assured  us,  could  possibly  have  saved 
him,  even  had  tliis  meeting  never  taken  place, 
as  every  moment  threatened  death.  Who  that 
had  seen  that  fair  and  elegant  form  leaning 
over  the  dead  body  of  her  betrothed  one — who 


110 


DRAMA  OF   REAL   LIFE, 


that  liad  tliought  of  the  thousands  of  miles  she 
had  traversed  to  embrace  a  dead  lover,  could 
help  weeping  like  a  child  as  I  did,  with 
her  ?" 

"  But  what  became  of  her,  Mr.  Massey?" 
asked  Mrs.  Hofer,  earnestly,  her  eyes  bedewed 
with  tears. 

"  She  returned  with  me,"  he  answered,  "and, 
before  we  got  to  Kandy,  she  was  seized  with 
a  brain  fever,  which  was  on  the  point  of  miiting 
again  those  whom  fate  had  so  crueUy  separated. 
But  she  recovered  slowly^ — her  maid,  whom  she 
had  left  in  Colombo,  tended  her,  affectionately, 
and  I  was  seldom  absent  from  the  house.  On 
her  recovery,  she  spent  a  few  weeks  with  us 
here." 

"  My  Henry  was  born  whilst  Mr.  Massey 
was  waiting  upon  her,"  said  his  aggrieved 
spouse. 

"  She  returned  to  Paris,  shortly  after,  and 
has  taken  the  veil,  I  am  informed,"  concluded 
the  worthy  husband. 

"  She  could  not  have  done  better.  One, 
whose  heart  is  dead  to  the  world,  will  still 
find  consolation  and  interest  in  religious  ex- 
ercises and  benevolent  offices,"  said  Mrs.  Hofer. 
"  Would  that  Protestantism  afforded  a  similar 


CONVEESATION  THEREON.  Ill 

refuge  to  the  weary  in  soul  and  the  broken  in 
heart !" 

"  Bless  me,  Mrs.  Hofer,"  exclaimed  Mrs. 
Massey,  "  do  you  wish  that  we  had  nunneries 
in  our  Protestant  rehgion  ?" 

"  I  do,"  replied  the  fair  enthusiast,  stoutly. 
"I  do,  because  I  think  there  are  thousands, 
who,  Hke  Louise  Morin,  are  so  sick  of  the 
world  and  so  sorrow-laden,  that  they  would 
find  the  only  alleviation  their  woes  admitted 
of,  in  a  religious  house,  and  amongst  com- 
panions suited  to  their  tastes  and  dispositions 
— companions  similarly  prostrated  in  mind  or 
body  with  themselves." 

"  Well,  I  have  always  looked  upon  them 
as  dreadful  places,"  replied  the  amazed  Mrs. 
Massey,  "  and  I  thought  aU  Protestants  did  so 
too." 

"  We  are  often  nurtured  in  such  a  belief  from 
infancy  in  England,  and  thus  look  at  these,  as 
at  many  other  things,  through  false  glasses  that 
distort  the  objects  regarded,"  observed  Mrs. 
Hofer ;  "  but  ignore  the  good,  reject  anything 
merely  because  it  has  been  abused  sometimes, 
and  what,  on  the  face  of  this  fair  earth  will 
you  retain  ?  Not  Christianity,  certainly,  for 
have  not  its  holy  precepts,  preaching  love  and 


112 


SYMPATHY. 


benevolence,  been  made  the  pretexts  for  tor- 
turing and  slaughtering  thousands  of  our  race 
— thousands  who  were  better,  nobler  far,  than 
the  milhons  who  were  sj^ared,  or  the  few  who 
have  been  applauded  at  other  times  for  virtues 
that  involved  neither  sacrifice  nor  self-denial  in 
then-  practice  ?" 

"  I  am  content  to  accept  my  religion  as  our 
ancestors  handed  it  down  to  us,"  replied  Mrs. 
Massey,  "  and  should  be  sorry  to  see  any  steps 
taken  that  would  lead  us  nearer  to  Popery,  and 
probably  land  us  there  at  last." 

Here  the  conversation  ended.  Mrs.  Massey 
was  content  as  she  had  had  the  last  word. 
Her  husband  looked  approbation  of  what  Mrs. 
Hofer  said,  but  did  not  venture  to  express  it 
openly.  Time  and  experience  had  taught  him 
prudence,  and  Hofer  and  I  abstained  from  join- 
ing in  the  discussion,  as  it  was  peculiarly  a 
topic  for  the  ladies,  and  the  temper  of  one  of 
them  could  not  be  depended  upon. 

Strangely  are  we  afi'ected  by  the  woes  of 
others,  even  of  those  whom  we  have  little  or 
no  chance  of  ever  seeing  or  becoming  acquainted 
with !  The  story  of  poor  Louise  Morin  and 
the  unfortunate  Roquelaire  made  a  deep  im- 
pression on  our  hearts.     The  Parahara  estate 


MOONLIGHT   DRIVE.  113 

was  sacred  to  us  from  that  hour,  and  was  ever 
afterwards  associated  with  it  in  our  minds. 
We  could  scarcely  endure  the  ordinary  tattle  of 
the  table  after  the  rehearsal  of  this  melancholy 
drama  of  real  life,  and  were  all  equally  anxious 
to  pursue  our  journey.  Mrs.  Massey's  eloquence 
in  describing  the  woes  of  her  existence  was 
powerless  to  arrest  our  attention,  nor  could 
Massey  liimself  say  anything  of  coffee  or  the 
coolies  that  did  not  appear  to  grate  upon 
our  feehngs. 

By  moonlight  that  evening  we  drove  into 
Kandy — our  journey  was,  for  the  most  part,  a 
silent  one ;  nor,  indeed,  was  there  much  to 
excite  our  admiration  or  interest  in  the  way. 
We  descended  into  the  large  valley  which 
encloses  the  hills  that  surround  Kand}^ ;  and 
after  passing  a  few  inequahties  of  ground, 
trifling  in  comparison  with  what  we  had 
already  gone  over,  we  approached  the  great 
bridge  which  leads  across  the  principal  river  of 
Ceylon — the  Mahaweli — directly  into  Kandy. 
This  bridge  is  of  sandal  wood,  and  crosses  the 
river  in  one  wide  span  of  two  hundred  and  five 
feet ;  an  interesting  and  imposing  object  in  the 
variegated  landscape  of  which  it  forms  a  part. 

Arrived  in  Kandy  we  separated.     I  found 


114  APPEARANCE  OF 

Mr.  Pinto,  my  uncle's  Portuguese  agent  from 
the  estate,  awaiting  me  at  the  "  rest-house,"  or 
hotel,  where  I  spent  the  night ;  and,  next 
morning,  rode  off  in  company  with  him, 
anxious  to  inspect  the  property  of  which,  for 
the  future,  I  was  to  be  master — the  scene  of 
the  tragical  death  of  poor  Poquelaire,  and  of 
the  first  keen  agony  of  his  bride.  The  Hofers 
remained  in  Kandy,  partly  to  cultivate  the 
society  which  it  afforded,  and  partly  to  give 
time  for  the  erection  of  a  substantial  bungalow 
on  their  property,  wliich  they  designated  the 
"  Lanka  Estate  " — Lanka  having  been  the 
ancient  native  name  of  Ceylon. 


A   COFFEE   ESTATE.  115 


CHAPTEE  IV. 

THE  ESTATE— COFFEE. 


<•  This  drink,  Sir- 


it  takes  away  the  performance." 

Macbeth,  act  ii.  sc.  3. 

Seen  from  a  distance  tliere  is  little  to  recom- 
mend a  coffee-estate  that  has  been  but  a  short 
time  in  cultivation.  During  the  greater  part 
of  the  year,  the  long  charred  trunks  of  trees 
that  have  been  felled  to  clear  the  land,  and 
have  lain  ever  since  in  the  furrows  between 
the  coffee-bushes,  are  but  too  conspicuous. 
When  the  plant  is  in  flower,  however,  there  is 
a  beauty  in  the  general  aspect  that  makes  up 
for  the  monotonous  ugliness  of  the  rest  of  the 
season.  The  unsightly  trunks  are  lost  in  the 
delicate  white  blossom,  whilst  a  delightful 
perfume  sweeps  over  the  hill  side,  borne  far 
away  into  the  valleys  by  the  wind.     Nothing 


116  MODE    OF   CULTIVATIXG 

can  be  more  grateful  to  the  sight  than  the 
pure  wliite  colour  of  the  blossom  nestling  amid 
the  bright  green  of  the  leaves.  It  has  been 
truly  said,  that  "  although  it  is  an  evergreen, 
few  plants  exhibit  a  greater  variety  of  appear- 
ance throughout  the  year  than  the  coffee- 
shrub."* 

It  does  not  grow  well  in  low  situations,  and 
is  therefore  cultivated  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  between  fifteen  hundred  and  four 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Nor 
will  it  thrive  on  table-lands,  although  they 
may  be  of  the  requisite  elevation,  as  it  requu'es 
shade  and  shelter,  both  from  sun  and  wind, 
in  order  thoroughly  to  develope  its  best  quali- 
ties, and  to  bring  it  to  perfection.  In  Ceylon, 
indeed,  scientific  considerations,  and,  in  many 
instances,  the  experience  of  all  other  countries, 
have  been  so  completely  ignored  and  neglected 
that  the  qualities  of  the  berry  produced  are  as 
various  as  the  situations  in  which  the  plant  is 
reared,  and  the  amount  of  attention  paid  to  its 

*  The  Coffea  is  a  genus  of  Cinchonaceous  plants,  containing  many 
species,  and  known  by  its  tubular  corolla,  with  four  or  five  spreading 
divisions ;  stamens  arising  from  the  naked  throat  of  the  corolla,  and 
either  extending  beyond  it  or  enclosed  within  it ;  and  a  succulent 
berry  containing  two  cells  lined  with  a  cartilaginous  membrane,  like 
parchment,  in  each  of  which  cells  there  is  a  single  seed,  convex  at 
the  back  and  deeply  furrowed  in  fi-out,  in  couscquence  of  the  albumen 
being  rolled  inwards. 


THE   COFFEE    SHRUB.  117 

wants  and  requirements.  The  best  and  the 
worst  descriptions  that  find  their  way  into  the 
English  market  have  been  equally  shipped 
from  Ceylon,  when  a  little  care  and  attention 
on  the  part  of  the  cultivators  would  have  re- 
moved the  bad  specimens  altogether,  and  thus 
given  the  island  a  better  name  as  a  coffee-pro- 
ducing country. 

In  opening  an  estate,  the  situation  of  the 
land,  the  directions  of  the  monsoon  Tvdnds,  the 
amount  of  shade  available,  and  the  probable 
supply  of  moisture  from  the  neighbouring 
heights,  should  all  be  taken  into  consideration 
— ^the  best  estates  having  been  invariably  those 
which,  well  sheltered  and  shaded,  are  situated 
in  such  an  amphitheatre-like  depression  on 
the  side  of  a  lofty  mountain,  as  insures  a  rich 
soil — the  accumulations  of  ages  washed  down 
from  the  hills  above — and  a  plentiful  supply  of 
moisture  even  in  the  dryest  part  of  the  year. 
This  moisture  may  not  always  consist  of 
streams  or  mountain  torrents,  but  merely  of 
the  dews  or  of  the  clouds  condensed  on  the 
hill-top,  and  constantly  percolating  through 
the  hill-side  to  the  soil  beneath.  Much  have 
Ceylon  planters  been  laughed  at  for  asserting 
that   abundance    of  rocks   was    almost   indis- 


118  MODE   OF   CULTIVATING 

pensable  to  tlie  proper  growth  of  the  shrub, 
and  that  no  plantations  should  be  formed 
where  rocks  do  not  abound ;  yet  there  is  truth 
in  the  observation  when  properly  understood. 
The  soil  between  the  large  rocks,  so  plentiful 
on  some  hiU-sides,  is  of  the  richest  possible 
description,  and  plants  placed  in  it  are  sure  to 
tlirive,  just  as  the  forest  did  before,  if  in  other 
respects  the  situation  be  favourable.  But 
when  people  couple  their  observation  about  the 
rocks  with  another,  that  the  coffee-shrub  loves 
a  poor  soil,  they  are  altogether  mistaken,  as 
experience,  all  over  the  world,  proves. 

Clearing  the  ground  of  the  forest  is  an 
arduous  undertaking,  requiring  the  most  un- 
remitting care  on  the  part  of  the  superin- 
tendent to  have  it  properly  done.  The  trees 
on  being  felled  are  not  lopped  into  convenient 
lengths  for  burning  as  in  America,  but  are 
merely  deprived  of  their  branches,  allowed  to 
dry  for  some  time  and  then  set  fire  to,  the 
large  charred  stems  being  subsequently  laid  in 
convenient  rows,  between  which  the  young 
plants  taken  from  the  nursery  are  planted. 
Wlien  the  hill-side  is  steep  and  a  large  mass  of 
the  forest  thickly  fills  the  air,  it  is  sometimes 
sufficient  to  notch  the  trees  half  tlirough  on 


THE   COFFEE   SHRUB.  119 

the  side  turned  away  from  the  valley  beneath. 
This  done,  a  few  of  the  largest  trees  at  the  top 
are  simultaneously  cut  through  and  allowed  to 
faU  with  all  their  weight  on  those  half-notched 
immediately  below  them.  These  fall  with  the 
momentum  of  the  others,  and  in  their  turn 
weigh  down  the  Hne  immediately  below,  and 
so  it  proceeds  until  the  entire  vegetation  of 
the  hill-side  hes  shattered  and  fallen  in  the 
most  fright ftd  confusion.  This  operation  is 
accompanied  by  quick  rapid  reports  from  the 
crashing  timber  that  reverberate  round  the 
hills  and  valleys  like  the  hregular  discharge  of 
cannon ;  the  neighbouring  echoes  taking  up  the 
sound,  tiU  it  is  lost  in  the  distance,  when  all 
is  again  still  for  a  time. 

When  the  berry  is  ripe,  indicated  by  its 
rich  red  colour,  every  one  on  the  estate  is  in  a 
constant  state  of  activity — men,  women,  and 
children  conveying,  in  hot  haste,  baskets  of  the 
berries  to  the  pulping-house,  there  to  be  sepa- 
rated from  the  pulp,  which  surrounds  the 
coffee-bean  within,  just  as  the  rich  juicy  fruit 
smTounds  the  "  stone  "  in  the  cherry.  This 
pulp  is  of  Httle  or  no  use,  although  occasionally 
given  to  animals  that  are  not  fastidious  in  their 
diet;    whilst  the  berry,  still  surrounded  by  a 


1~0  HOW   TO   PRErARE 

liorny  coating  resembling  parchment,  is  dried  a 
little  in  the  sun  to  admit  of  this  covering  being 
the  more  easily  removed.  The  "  parchment,"  as 
it  is  called,  stripped  off,  the  berry  is  fit  for 
packing.  The  different  descriptions  are  sorted, 
the  finer  being  labelled  "  Mocha,"  and  the 
whole  sent  in  canvas  bags  to  the  coast  for 
exportation.  The  pulper  and  a  mill  for  re- 
moving the  parchment  are  the  only  machinery 
required  for  the  working  of  an  estate,  even  of 
large  dimensions,  all  the  rest  being  done  by 
hand,  or  with  the  assistance  of  the  diminutive 
bullocks  of  the  natives. 

Even  the  coarsest-grained  native  coffee  is  by 
no  means  so  inferior  in  flavour  to  the  finest 
peaberry  as  people  in  England  suppose.  The 
great  difference  generally  consists  in  the  way 
in  which  the  beverage  is  prepared.  As  soon 
as  the  operation  of  roasting  is  completed — an 
operation  which  requires  care  and  attention 
not  to  have  it  overdone — the  coffee  should  be 
ground  at  once  and  diluted.  The  subtle  aroma 
which  resides  in  the  essential  oil  of  the  berry 
is  gradually  dissipated  after  roasting,  and  of 
course  still  more  after  being  ground.  In  order 
to  enjoy  the  full  flavour  in  perfection,  the  berry 
should  pass  at  once  from  the  roasting-pan  to 


\ 


COFFEE   IN   PERFECTION.  121 


the  mill,  and  thence  to  the  coffee-pot ;  and 
again,  after  having  been  made,  should  be 
mixed,  when  almost  at  a  boiling  heat,  with  the 
hot  milk.  It  must  be  very  bad  coffee  indeed 
which,  if  these  precautions  be  taken,  will  not 
afford  an  agreeable  and  exhilarating  drink. 
Two  great  evils  are  constantly  perpetrated  in 
England  in  its  preparation,  which  are  more 
guarded  against  in  almost  all  other  countries, 
and  which  materially  impair  its  flavour  and 
strength — keeping  the  coffee  a  considerable 
time  after  roasting  or  grinding,  by  which  its 
strength  is  diminished,  and  its  delicate  and 
volatile  aroma  lost ;  and  mixing  the  milk  with 
it  after  it  has  been  allowed  partially  to  cool. 
Experience  taught  us  to  avoid  these  errors  in 
the  jungle ;  and  it  was  not  till  Mr,  Pinto  had 
repeatedly  made  both  kinds  in  perfection  that 
I  began  to  discover  the  difference  between  the 
exquisitely  delicate  flavour  of  the  peaberry,  or 
finest  description,  and  the  coarser,  equally 
strong,  but  less  dehcate  taste  of  the  larger, 
rougher,  and  more  unsightly  qualities. 

Our  estate  was  situated  on  the  side  of  a 
lofty  mountain,  stretching  down  to  a  rivulet 
that  wound  about  its  base ;  beyond  which  a 
wide  extent  of  level  land  opened  out  to  the 

VOL.  I.  G 


122  LODGING   OF   LABOURERS 

East,  sheltered  on  thi'ee  sides  hj  lofty  i'ed  a 
The  bungalow  was  built  on  a  level  projecti'rio" 
portion  of  the  hill's  side,  in  the  very  centre  o>^ 
the  cultivated  part  of  the  property,  for  as  yet 
but  a  fourth  of  the  land  which  it  comprised 
had  been  cleared  and  planted.  Further  down 
the  mountain,  and  concealed  by  thick  forest 
from  the  bungalow,  lay  the  coohes'  "  lines  " — 
the  residence  of  the  native  laboui-ers — miserable 
sheds,  low,  filthy,  and  stifling,  in  which  they 
and  their  famihes  were  all  huddled  together 
without  decency  or  comfort.  To  this  method 
of  life  they  had  been  accustomed;  and  Mr. 
Pinto  informed  me  that  any  attempt  on  my 
part  to  alter  it  would  but  be  attended  with 
discontent  and  desertion.  Certain  I  am  that 
were  these  labourers  slaves,  it  would  be  for 
their  owner's  interest  to  afford  them  better- 
ventilated,  loftier,  and  more  comfortable  abodes  ; 
yet  they  were  quite  contented  with  them — 
23eals  of  laughter  bursting  from  these  "  lines  " 
at  night,  and  during  Sundays  and  holidays, 
proved  that  their  occupants  did  not  lead  what 
they  considered  a  miserable  or  hopeless  life. 
Nor  were  they  worse  off  with  us  than  with 
others ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  rather  better,  as 
the  rivulet  was  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and 


ON   COFFEE   ESTATES.  123 

the  3  was,  therefore,  no  want  of  water,  did 
afLj  desire  to  render  their  habitations  at  all 
cleanlier.  I  subsequently  made  the  trial  I  in- 
tended, notwithstanding  Mr.  Pinto's  advice,  by 
di"\T.ding  one  of  the  sheds  into  compartments  for 
the  families  ;  but  I  found  it  worse  than  useless. 
It  abridged  the  space  allotted  to  them,  without 
any  corresponding  advantage,  for  the  undivided 
portion  assigned  to  the  bachelors  soon  became 
crowded  with  both  companies,  so  that  the  evil, 
instead  of  being  diminished,  was  increased, 
whilst  my  cdnganies,  or  head-workmen,  informed 
me,  that  they  had  compared  the  rooms  to  cattle- 
stalls,  and  that  those  were  laughed  at  who  oc- 
cupied them.  Perseverance  might  perhaps 
have  overcome  their  prejudices,  but  I  had  not 
the  necessary  time  for  it,  and  gave  up  the  trial 
in  disgust. 

An  amazing  amount  of  sympathy  has  been 
lately  wasted  by  the  British  pubhc  on  the 
condition  of  the  slaves  in  America — that  public 
has  but  to  turn  to  a  portion  of  the  world 
with  which  it  is  more  intimately  connected,  in 
order  to  discover  abuses  as  gross,  methods  of 
life  as  repulsive,  tyranny  as  flagrant,  as  any 
that  exists  on  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
In  India  aU  these  are  to  be  found,  if  the  inquiry 

G  2 


124  BURLESQUE    PAPER   ON   THE 

be  but  made.  As  a  class,  I  believe  the  Ceylon 
cofFee-planters  were  kind  and  humane,  as  I  have 
no  doubt  the  Carohna  and  Mississippi  cotton- 
planters  are,  but  there  were  Legrees  and  Haleys 
amongst  them  too,  and  always  wiU  be  as  long 
as  human  nature  continues  as  it  is.  Wliat  re- 
dress could  the  poor  cooHe,  for  instance,  have 
against  his  European  master  who  illtreated  him, 
miles  away  in  the  jungle,  far  from  a  magistrate 
or  a  court,  with  aU  his  fellows  up  in  arms 
against  him,  lest  they  should  lose  their  employ- 
ment, and  his  wife  and  family  almost  at  the 
complete  mercy  of  his  persecutor,  or  of  that 
persecutor's  assistants  ?  In  such  circumstances 
there  must  be  despotism  on  a  small  scale,  and, 
wherever  that  exists,  there  wall  occasionally  be 
cruelty  and  injustice. 

The  following  bui'lesque  account  of  a  pre- 
tended paper,  supposed  to  have  been  read  by 
a  member  before  the  Ceylon  Agricultural 
Society,  notwithstanding  its  gross  exaggera- 
tion, proves  the  extent  to  which  the  unfortu- 
nate coohe  is  at  the  mercy  of  his  European 
employer,  even  in  the  matter  of  wages,  how 
much  more  then  in  personal  ill-treatment,  when 
liis  companions  cannot  be  expected  to  take  part 
with  him,  lest  they  should  thereby  endanger 


WORKING  OF   A  COFFEE   ESTATE.  125 

their  situations,  and  lose  their  only  means  of 
liveliliood. 

"  A  member  of  the  name  of  Sqneery  next 
read  a  very  clear  composition,  treating  upon  an 
improved  system  of  working  a  coffee  or  sugar 
estate,  with  the  least  possible  amount  of  funds. 
His  plan  was  to  keep  a  well-paid  agent  in  the 
low-country,  to  offer  high  wages  to  labourers, 
and  of  course  secure  great  numbers  at  all  times. 
By  the  end  of  the  month  great  fault  is  to  be 
fomid  with  the  coolies,  which  ends  in  their 
being  discharged,  minus  their  pay,  and  a  fresh 
lot  is  sent  up  by  the  Colombo  agent.  As  a 
matter  of  course  the  blackguards  go  to  the 
District  Judge,  and  he  issues  summonses  which 
must  be  attended  to ;  in  the  mean  time  fresh 
labour  is  secured,  which,  in  due  course,  is  dis- 
posed of  as  the  last ;  so  that  cases  multiply  ex- 
ceedingly. But  mark  the  result !  By  a  wise 
law  of  nature,  it  takes  an  ordinary  District 
Judge  at  least  three  years  to  decide  a  case  of 
this  kind ;  should  he,  however,  be  so  foolish  as 
to  settle  the  thing  in  two,  you  can  appeal, 
wliich  will  give  you  two  more.  Now  by  the 
time  the  first  of  these  cases  is  decided,  you  are 
getting  in  a  crop,  and  the  proceeds  of  it  enables 
you  to  meet  the  many  claims  against  the  whole 


126 


FIRST   IXTRODUCTION   OF 


for  labour  in  past  years.  So  tliat  the  sum  ac- 
tually required  to  be  spent  in  the  first  instance, 
need  he  but  trifling,  if  these  practical  hints  are 
acted  upon,"* 

It  is  amusing,  when  contemplating  the 
almost  universal  use  of  coffee  at  present,  to 
turn  one's  attention  to  the  storm  which  its  first 
introduction  into  England  created.  In  the 
time  of  the  Commonwealth,  and  under  Charles 
the  Second,  coffee-houses  seem  to  have  been 
first  opened  in  London,  and  this  "  Turkish 
drink,"  as  it  was  called,  to  have  become  a 
general  favourite  with  their  frequenters — the 
beaux,  and  idlers,  and  newsmongers  of  the  me- 
tropoHs.  Great  was  the  wrath,  however,  of  those 
whose  trades  or  employments  were  endangered 
by  the  use  of  the  new  beverage,  and  a  storm  of 
indignation  arose  against  the  innocent  shrub, 
which  threatened  to  drive  it  for  ever  fi'om  our 
shores,  or  to  buiy  it  under  a  load  of  falsehood 
and  abuse.  The  pamphlets  which  appeared  at 
the  time  on  the  subject,  prove  the  violence  of 
the  opposing  parties.  Poetry  and  prose  were 
exhausted  in  depicting  the  evil  effects  of  the 
habitual   use   of  coffee,  in   language  such  as 


*  "  Life  in  the  Jungle,  by  Sami^son  Brown,"  p.  90.     Colombo, 
Herald  Press,  1845. 


COFFEE   INTO  ENGLAND.  127 

cannot  now  be  quoted ;  nay  tlie  very  head  and 
front  of  its  supposed  offending  seems  to  have 
been  of  such  a  character,  that  modern  refinement 
or  modern  affectation  would  scarcely  permit  the 
subject  to  be  hinted  at  at  present,  much  less 
openly  canvassed.  The  following  were  the 
titles  of  a  few  of  the  broad  sheets  which  were 
devoted  to  the  vituperation  or  expulsion  of  the 
obnoxious  drink  :  "  Baccliinaha  Ccelestia  ■ —  a 
Poem  in  praise  of  Punch,"  pubHshed  in  Charles 
the  Second's  time,  for  he  is  named  in  it,  but 
without  date,  in  which  the  various  gods  and  god- 
desses introduced,  do  not  hesitate  to  speak  their 
minds  openly  on  the  subject — aU  lauding,  of 
course,  the  good  old  Punch,  which  cofiee  threa- 
tened to  dethrone.  *'  Eebellion's  Antidote" 
was  another  pamplilet  on  the  subject,  being  "  a 
Dialogue  between  Coffee  and  Tea."  "  Printed 
by  George  Croom,  at  the  sign  of  the  Blue  Bell, 
Thames  Street,  over  against  Baynard's  Castle, 
16S5."  "A  Broadside  against  Coffee,  or  the 
Marriage  of  the  Turk.  Printed  for  J.  L.  1 672," 
was,  as  its  title  imports,  a  fierce  diatribe,  far 
too  coarse,  although  amusing,  for  modern  "  ears 
polite" — the  following  lines,  however,  which  are 
almost  the  only  ones  I  could  quote  without 
censure,  will  give  some  idea  of  its  animus — 


128  OPPOSITION   TO  THE 

"  Bold  Asian  brat !  with  speed  our  confines  flee, 
Water,  the'  common,  is  too  good  for  thee." 

"  This  canting  Coffee  has  his  crew  enricht, 
And  both  the  water  and  the  men  bewitcht." 

"  But  to  cure  Drunkards  it  has  got  great  Fame, 
Posset  or  Porridge,  will 't  not  do  the  same  ? 
Confusion  huddles  all  into  one  scene, 
Lilie  Noah's  ark,  the  clean  and  the  unclean. 
But  now,  alas  !  the  Drench  has  credit  got. 
And  he's  no  Gentleman  that  drinks  it  not. 
That  such  a  Dwarf  should  rise  to  such  a  stature ! 
But  Custom  is  but  a  remove  from  Nature  ; 
A  little  Dish,  and  a  large  Coffee-house, 
"What  is  it,  but  a  Mountain  and  a  Mouse  ?" 

But  enough  of  J.  L.'s  doggerel — useful, 
IVDwever,  in  two  respects,  to  prove  at  once  the 
abuse  still  lavished  on  coffee  in  1672,  and  also 
its  common  use  at  that  time  in  London ;  for 
"  he's  no  Grentleman  that  drinks  it  not,"  ac- 
cording to  J.  L.'s  own  confession, 

A  few  years  before,  in  1663,  an  anonymous 
writer  had  similarly  railed  against  it  in  good 
set  terms,  under  the  title  of  "  A  Cup  of  Coffee ; 
or,  Coffee  in  its  true  Colors."  The  follo\ving 
is  quoted  from  this  "■  Cup  :" — 

"  Fie,  friends  to  the  gross  Turkey-shore,  shall  then 
These  less  than  Coffee's  self,  tliese  Coffee-men, 
These  sons  of  nothing,  that  can  hardly  make 
Their  broth,  for  laughing  liow  the  jest  docs  take. 
Yet  grin,  and  give  you  for  the  Vine 's  pure  Blood 
A  loathsome  Potion,  not  yet  understood, 
Syrrup  of  Soot,  or  Essence  of  Old  Shooes, 
Dasht  with  Diuruals  and  the  Books  of  News?" 


INTRODUCTIOX  OF   COFFEE.  129 

"News  from  the  Coffe-House.  Printed  by 
E.  Crooch,  for  Thomas  Vere,  at  the  Cock,  in 
St.  John's  St.,  London,  1667,  with  Alowance  " 
— was  equally  severe. 

"  The  Maiden's  Complaint  against  Coifee  " 
was  certainly  not  written  by  a  maiden,  nor 
calculated  to  be  read  by  such.  It  must  have 
appeared  dming  or  before  1663,  although  with- 
out date.  More  able,  but  not  more  decent, 
was  "  The  "Women's  Petition  against  Coifee ; 
representing  to  Public  Consideration  the  grand 
Inconveniences  accruing  to  their  Sex  from  the 
Excessive  Use  of  that  Drymg,  Enfeebling 
Liquor.     1674." 

Under  such  a  load  of  abuse,  and  such  tor- 
rents of  hostile  verse  and  prose,  it  might  be 
supposed  that  the  much-hated  berry  would 
have  lost  ground,  but  such  was  not  the  case ; 
its  advocates  were  up  in  arms  in  its  defence, 
and  were  probably  quite  as  disinterested  in 
their  praise  of  it,  as  its  adversaries  in  their 
hostihty.  Whilst,  on  the  one  side,  there  was 
scarcely  an  evil  under  which  humanity  laboured 
that  was  not,  in  some  form  or  other,  attributed 
by  its  enemies  to  the  use  of  coffee  ;  so,  on  the 
other,  there  was  not  a  disease  which  it  was 
incapable  of  curing — so  rife  were  assertions  of 

g3 


130  EARLY   PRAISE   OF   COFFEE. 

the  boldest  and  tlie  most  absurd  character. 
Perhaps  the  earliest  defence  of  it,  although  un- 
fortunately without  date,  was  "  The  Vertue  of 
Coffee  Drink,  first  publiquely  made  and  sold  in 
England,  by  Pasqua  Eosee."  "  Made  and  sold 
in  St.  Michael's  Alley,  in  Cornhill,  by  Pasqua 
Eosee,  at  the  signe  of  his  own  head." 

"  The  Vertues  of  Coffee,"  a  long  panegyric 
of  the  new  beverage  in  verse,  appeared  in  1663, 
Ijut  was  far  inferior,  both  in  wit  and  in  point, 
to  the  tirades  which  it  professed  to  answer. 

A  more  interesting  and  more  able  produc- 
tion was — "  The  Coffee-Man's  Granado,  dis- 
charged upon  the  Maiden's  Complaint  against 
Coffee,  wherein  is  discovered  several  strange, 
wonderful,  and  miraculous  cures  performed  by 
Coffee  (the  like  never  heard  of  since  the  Cre- 
ation). Written  by  Don  Bellicosgo  Armuthaz, 
to  confute  the  Author  of  that  lying  pamphlet," 
wherein  the  valorous  knight  stoutly  denied 
the  evils  said  to  be  produced  upon  the  frame 
by  the  use  of  coffee,  and  challenged  investiga- 
tion, asserting,  furthermore,  that  rheumatism, 
gout,  stone,  quinsy,  and  a  host  of  other  dis- 
eases, were  curable  by  its  use.  Don  Bellicosgo 
Armuthaz's  warlike  production  made  its  appear- 
ance likewise  in  1663. 


INTRODUCTION  OF  COFFEE.  131 

"  The  Men's  Answer  to  the  Women's  Pe- 
tition against  Coffee,"  was  not  a  whit  more 
dehcate  or  refined,  than  the  pamphlet  to  which 
it  professed  to  reply.  It  bears  the  date  of 
1674. 

In  the  same  year  appeared  a  far  more  tem- 
perate production  on  the  subject,  although 
equally  extravagant  in  its  broad  and  unqua- 
lified assertions,  entitled,  "  A  brief  Description 
of  the  excellent  Virtues  of  that  sober  and  whole- 
some Drink  called  Cofiee,  and  its  incomparable 
Effects  in  preventing  or  curing  most  Diseases 
incident  to  Human  Bodies.  London,  printed 
for  Paul  Grreenwoocl,  and  are  to  be  sold  at  the 
sign  of  the  Coffee-Mill  and  Tobacco  EoU,  in 
Cloth  Pair,  near  West  Smithfield,  who  seUeth 
the  best  Arabian  Coffee-Powder  and  Chocolate 
made  in  Cake  or  Eoll  after  the  Spanish 
fashion,  &c." 

"  The  Natm'al  History  of  Coffee,  printed  for 
Christopher  Wilkinson,  at  the  Black  Boy,  over 
against  St.  Dunstan's  Church,  in  Fleet  Street," 
in  1682,  professed  to  be  a  scientific  treatise  on 
the  subject,  exhibiting  a  caricature  of  a  coffee- 
bush  as  a  frontispiece,  but  was  in  reality  no- 
thing more  or  less  than  a  preposterous  pane- 
gyric of  the  drink,  which,  by  that  time,  had 


132  FIRST   INTKODUCTION   OF   COFFEE. 

doubtless  firmly  established  itself  as  a  common 
article  of  consumption  in  London. 

There  is  something  at  once  interesting  and 
humiHating  in  now  looking  back  at  the  strug- 
gle which  ensued  upon  the  introduction  of  the 
harmless  berry — interesting  in  the  proofs  which 
it  affords  of  the  frequency  with  which,  even 
then,  the  press  was  appealed  to,  and  humiliating 
when  we  consider  the  character  of  the  struggle 
and  the  way  in  which  it  was  carried  on.  Some 
interested  in  its  abuse  and  disuse,  others  in  its 
more  extensive  diffusion,  but  both  employing 
the  same  weapons — wit,  lying,  and  obscenity — 
to  sustain  their  assertions,  and  give  piquancy 
and  attractiveness  to  their  effusions.  In  a 
survey  of  the  entire  struggle  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  discover  the  simple  truth  from  a 
consideration  of  the  opposite  statements,  and 
is  not  the  same  true  at  present  of  all  discus- 
sions in  which  unlimited  and  unbounded  as- 
sertion can  be  hazarded  ? 


NEW   ACQUAINTANCE.  J  38 


CHAPTEE  V. 

A  NATIVE  CHIEF,  MARANDIIAN. 

"  I  cannot  hide  what  I  am ;  I  must  be  sad  wlien  I  have  cause,  and 
smile  at  no  man's  jests ;  eat  when  I  have  stomach,  and  wait  for  no 
man's  leisure;  sleep  when  I  am  drowsy,  and  tend  on  no  man's  business ; 
laugh  when  I  am  merry,  and  claw  no  man  in  his  humour." 

Much  Ado  About  Nothinc;,  act  i.,  sc.  3. 

Shortly  after  my  arrival  on  the  estate,  wliich 
I  found  in  a  flourishing  condition,  under  Mr. 
Pinto's  management,  I  made  acquaintance  with 
some  of  the  European  and  native  gentry  of  the 
vicinity.  Of  the  latter  I  was  particularly  struck 
with  the  appearance  and  intelligence  of  a  Mod- 
liar,  or  Kandian  Colonel,  named  Marandhan. 
My  first  visit  to  him  made  such  an  impression 
upon  my  mind,  that  I  have  never  forgotten  it, 
notwithstanding  the  friendship  which  subse- 
quently sprang  up  between  us. 

The  sloping  mountain's   side  whicJi  formed 
the  most  accessible  portion  of  oui*  estate,  and 


134  ROMANTIC  SCEXERY. 

on  whicli  the  bungalow  was  situated,  stretched, 
as  I  have  said,  to  a  rivulet  in  the  valley  beneath. 
Crossing  the  rivulet,  I  made  my  way  tlu'ough  a 
patch  of  forest,  abruptly  terminated  by  a  mass 
of  overhanging  rocks  of  the  most  wild,  irre- 
gular, and  desolate  description.  Stretching 
for  five  miles  from  east  to  west,  this  natural 
barrier  formed  the  boundary  of  om-  property — 
its  weather-beaten  summits  exhibiting  forms 
the  most  fantastical  and  picturesque  that  can 
be  imagined.  In  some  places  covered  with 
moss  or  some  species  of  tropical  lichen,  in 
others  bare  and  bleached  with  the  constant 
exposure,  these  rocks  reminded  me  forcibly  of 
the  similar  groups  upon  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains in  Dove  Dale,  in  Derbyshire,  resem- 
bling— 

"Temples  like  those  amongst  the  Hindoos, 
Churches,  spires  and  abbey  windows, 
And  turrets  all  with  ivy  green." 

To  find  a  way  for  one's  horse  through  tliis 
strange  natural  barrier,  was  by  no  means  an 
easy  matter,  but,  once  through,  my  further 
progress  was  unimpeded,  although  it  was  some 
time  before  I  met  with  a  road.  The  ground 
was  uncultivated,  even,  and  covered,  for  the 
most  part,  with  long  tufted  grass — such  land 


NATIVE   LABOURER.  135 

as  is  in  Ceylon  called  "  patua  " — resembling,  I 
suppose,  the  prairies  of  the  far  West. 

Dashing  then  through  this  tufted  grass, 
with  a  salutary  dread  of  snakes  and  serpents, 
I  make  my  way  rapidly  along  ;  keeping  on 
either  side  and  ahead,  what  the  sailors  would 
call  a  bright  look-out  for  some  wild  adversary, 
or  more  subtle  assailant,  for  the  leopards  and 
tic-polongas  are  equally  fond  of  the  open 
grass  land  at  some  seasons  of  the  year.  At 
length  there  are  symptoms  of  cultivation  in 
the  neighl3ourliood.  A  large  open  plot  of 
ground,  saturated  with  water,  bears  traces  of 
having  borne  a  recent  crop,  and  "Uncle  Toby," 
my  redoubted  steed,  covers  his  fetlocks  at  every 
plunge,  as  he  flounders  through  it.  There  is  a 
hard  bank  at  one  side,  however,  which  has 
evidently  served  the  purpose  of  a  road,  and, 
making  my  way  to  this,  "  Uncle  Toby "  is 
more  contented  and  snorts  forth  his  approba- 
tion. A  little  further  on  we  meet  a  labourer 
apparently  going  forth  to  plough,  or  more 
probably,  passing  from  one  field  to  another 
for  that  purpose.  His  plough,  a  miserable 
piece  of  wood  with  a  crooked  stick  fas- 
tened on  the  end,  (one  extremity  of  which  he 
holds  wiiilst   the  other  scratches  the  ground 


136  KANDIAX  HOUSE 

when  actually  "  ploiigliing,"  as  they  designate 
that  operation),  is,  for  the  present,  thrown  over 
liis  shoulder,  w^hilst  two  diminutive  hullocks 
creep  on,  at  a  snail's  pace,  before  him.  They 
go  quickly  enough  for  him,  however,  for  he  is 
in  no  hurry  whatever.  My  appearance  on  the 
bank  has  e^ddently  disconcerted  him,  and, 
putting  his  plough  on  the  ground,  he  stares 
vacantly  at  me — eyes,  mouth,  and  nose,  all 
dilated  to  their  utmost ;  for  a  white  man  on  a 
horse  is  not  an  every-day  sight  in  this  out-of- 
the-way  district.  The  bullocks  calmly  crop 
what  little  vegetation  they  can,  whilst  their 
master  thus  enjoys  his  stare. 

"  Is  that  Marandhan  Modliar's  house  ?"  I 
shout  to  him  in  my  best  Singhalese. 

"  It  is,  my  lord,"  is  the  reply  wafted  to  me 
after  a  httle,  and  I  pass  on. 

The  house  to  which  I  pointed,  a  white- 
walled,  thatched,  and  somewhat  extensive  cot- 
tage-looking tenement,  surrounded  by  nume- 
rous mud  cabins,  stood  right  before  me  in  a 
kind  of  hollow  formed  by  the  undulating 
ground.  "  Uncle  Toby "  seemed  perfectly 
aware  of  the  state  of  the  case,  for  he  pushed 
on  bravely  and  briskly,  Avhilst,  looking  over 
my  shoulder,  I  saw  my  friend  the  ploughman 


AND  ITS  OCCUPANTS.  137 

slowly  picking  up  his  plough  and  creeping  on 
again  after  his  cattle,  as  I  disappeared  from  his 
gaze  round  the  corner, 

IIa\ing  met  Marandhan  at  the  magistrate's 
in  our  post  town  of  Euminacaddee,  I  had 
informed  him  of  my  intention  of  calling  on 
him  on  tliis  particular  day.  He  was  therefore 
prepared  for  my  approach,  and  I  found  him 
hospitahly  awaiting  me  in  the  verandah  as  I 
rode  up.  Except  for  the  group  of  poor  cot- 
tages which  surrounded  liis  tenement,  and  for 
the  amazing  numbers  of  little  darkies  aU  jab- 
bering Singhalese,  and  running  hither  and 
thither,  for  the  most  part  in  a  state  of  complete 
nudity,  there  was  not  much  to  distinguish  his 
house  from  that  of  a  European,  externally. 
Amongst  the  smaller  fry,  the  children  doubtless 
of  the  dependants  on  this  small  feudal  lord, 
(for  I  could  not  believe  that  he  was  the  father 
of  the  maU,)  my  arrival  created  a  great  sensation, 
and  many  of  them  whispered  conunents  to  each 
other  on  my  white  face,  which,  had  I  caught 
them,  would  not  probably  have  been  considered 
by  me  as  very  flattering,  for  they  have  an  ugly 
habit,  these  Singhalese,  to  us  perfectly  un- 
natural, of  painting  their  devils  white  instead 
of  black.     Many   of  these   little   ones,  those 


138  KANDIAJ^  CHILDREN. 

especially  who  kept  carefully  at  a  respectable 
distance,  and  peeped  from  behind  a  wooden 
pillar,  or  over  the  shoulder  of  a  braver  com- 
panion, or  from  behind  their  mother's  scanty 
drapery,  had  never  seen  a  white  man  before, 
although  the  aforesaid  paintings  in  their  tem- 
ples were  familiar  to  them,  and  there  is,  there- 
fore, no  necessity  to  indicate  further  for  whom 
they  probably  took  me.  Even  a  few  pice 
which  I  scattered  amongst  them  did  not  seem 
to  relieve  their  minds  on  this  point  ;  yet 
some  of  the  bolder,  those  who  had  remained 
nearest,  bravely  laughed  at  their  fears,  and 
advanced  one  step  nearer,  to  show  that  they, 
at  all  events,  were  not  afraid. 

Eising  from  his  chair,  Marandhan  saluted 
me  with  a  hearty  shake  of  the  hand,  and  ex- 
pressed fluently  in  English  his  pleasure  at  tliis 
the  first  visit  with  which  a  European  gentle- 
man had  ever  deigned  to  honour  him.  He  was 
a  fine  specimen  of  his  class.  Let  me  try  and 
bring  him  before  the  reader,  as  he  stood  before 
me  at  that  moment.  Imagine,  then,  a  middle- 
sized  man,  with  a  darkish  face,  not  by  any 
means  black,  scarcely  approaching  to  black  by 
any  conceivable  degrees  ; — the  colour  of  well- 
milkcd   colfee,    is    the    simile   that   naturally 


KANDIAJSr  chief's  DRESS.  139 

suggests  itself  to  me ;  a  variegated  silk  hand- 
kerchief, tied,  turban-fashion,  round  his  head ; 
a  close-fitting  vest  covering  the  upper,  and  a 
roll  of  muslin,  forming  an  ample  girdle,  the 
middle,  whilst  full  petticoats,  looped  up  be- 
tween the  legs,  giving  the  appearance  of  wide 
trousers,  concealed  the  lower  portion  of  his 
person,  liis  feet  being  tlu:ust  into  a  pair  of 
Chinese-looking  slippers,  peaked  and  turned  up 
at  the  toes.  In  such  a  guise,  his  hand  ex- 
tended to  grasp  mine,  Marandlian  was  a  notice- 
able object,  such  as  no  one  could  pass  by, 
whose  eyes  and  mmd  were  active,  without 
feeling  an  impression  that  it  was  a  Hving, 
breathing  man,  of  some  mark  and  likehhood, 
that  was  thus  tricked  out  externally — as  we  all 
are,  according  to  the  fashion  of  our  time  and 
country. 

The  reader  is  disposed  to  smile  at  the  looped- 
up  petticoats,  the  ample  muslin  girdle,  and  the 
rings  which  adorned  his  ears.  Nay,  let  us  not 
smile ;  let  us  begin  to  judge  men  by  other 
than  tailors'  eyes,  and  to  think  more  of  the 
furniture  within  the  cranium  than  of  its  ex- 
ternal ornaments ;  for  whether  a  man  wears  a 
silk  handkercliief  tied  round  it,  or  a  beaver  hat 
a  foot  high  above  it,  makes  httle  matter  in  the 


140  INTERIOR   OF   HOUSE, 

long  run ;  nor  to  tlie  world  within  is  it  of  the 
shghtest  consequence  whether  the  hair  be  long, 
lank,  tied  in  a  knot  behind,  as  Marandhan  wears 
his,  or  more  artistically  disposed  in  well-cared 
ringlets  on  the  reflecting  European's  head. 
Noble  thoughts  and  grand  ideas  may  have  oc- 
cupied both  internally,  and  doubtless  both  are 
seeking  ardently,  as  aU  tliinking  men  do  seek,  to 
solve  this  strange  enigma  of  a  nineteenth-cen- 
tury world,  with  such  lights  and  helps  as  Europe 
and  Asia  respectively  can  aflbrd  for  that  purpose. 
Having  conducted  me  to  an  apartment 
within,  ornamented  with  several  elaborately- 
carved  articles  of  Singhalese  workmanship,  and 
the  walls  of  which  were  hung  with  various 
trophies  of  the  Marandhan  family — a  family 
once  of  great  note  in  the  island — my  host 
pointed  to  a  chair,  and  we  seated  ourselves. 
A  servant  shortly  after  entered  with  fruits, 
sweetmeats,  and  wine,  which  I  found  pleasant 
and  refreshing  after  my  long  ride.  Cigars 
were  subsequently  introduced,  and  we  smoked 
in  concert  till  the  conclusion  of  my  stay ;  an 
energetic  and  interesting  conversation  being 
maintained  between  us  during  the  whole  time. 
Of  this  conversation  I  noted  down  shortly  after 
a  few  fragments. 


CONVERSATION.  141 

"  So  many  of  ni}'-  countrymen,"  I  began, 
"  have  assured  me  that  the  native  chiefs  desire 
to  withdi'aw  themselves  from  European  society, 
that  I  fear  I  may  have  been  rude  in  visiting 
you  as  I  have  done." 

"  Far  from  it,"  said  he ;  "  we  of  the  Kan- 
dian  provinces  do  not  certainly  desire  to  be 
measured  by  the  standard  of  our  coast  fellow- 
countrymen,  whose  meanness  and  sycophancy 
we,  for  the  most  part,  despise ;  and,  as  Euro- 
pean gentlemen  know  httle  of  the  distinction 
between  the  Singhalese  of  the  coast  and  the 
Kandians  of  the  mountains,  we  shun  that 
supercihous  contempt  to  which  the  others  sub- 
ject themselves.  You  are  certainly  the  first 
Eui'opean  gentleman  that  has  taken  the  trouble 
to  find  out  my  poor  abode  and  to  visit  it ;  but 
I  have  all  my  hfe  hved  in  intimacy  with  some 
or  other  of  your  countrymen,  either  here  or  in 
Kandy." 

"  You  do  not,  then,  regard  the  natives  of 
the  coast  as  being  equal  to  those  of  the  inte- 
rior?" I  observed,  surprised. 

"  I  regard  them  as  being  as  much  our  in- 
feriors in  intellectual  and  moral  quahties  as 
they  certainly  are  in  physical,"  said  Marandlian, 
firmly. 


142  CONVEESAtlON  WITH 

"  I  am  inclined  to  agree  with  you,"  said  I, 
"  short  as  has  been  my  acquaintance  mth  either. 
Of  their  physical  inferiority  there  cannot  be  a 
doubt — and  to  this  the  bracing  air  of  3'our 
mountains  and  table-lands,  doubtless,  much 
conduces,  whilst  their  lives  are  spent  amid  the 
heat  and  enervating  tropical  luxmiance  of  the 
lower  coast  district.  But  this  fact  seems 
generally  understood  by  Enghslmien,  so  far  as 
my  experience  goes — they  invariably  ranlt  the 
Kandian  far  above  the  lowland  Singhalese." 

"  They  do,  I  beheve,  in  words,"  he  answered, 
"but  not  always  in  act.  Accustomed  to  the 
servility  and  debasement  of  the  coast,  they 
treat,  too  frequently,  with  supercilious  injustice, 
the  claims  of  the  Kandian  to  be  recog-nised  as 
a  man,  and  not  to  be  cuffed  and  petted  alter- 
nately, as  a  spaniel  of  the  tamest  character. 
Hence,  frequently,  our  shyness.  I  have  always 
remarked,  however,  that  those  who  have  but 
lately  left  England  have  less  of  this  intolerable 
hauteur  than  those  long  resident  on  the  coast." 

"Your  words,  Modliar,  convey  a  quiet  sarcasm, 
which  I  fear  we  too  often  deserve,"  said  I. 
"  We  are  all  creatm-es  of  habit,  indeed,  and  if 
a  man  has  been  brought  up,  or  has  even  only 
associated   for    years,   with   '  spaniels   of    the 


A   KANDIAN  CHIEF.  143 

tamest  character,'  he  is  likely  to  became  some- 
what overbearing." 

"  It  is  erroneous  to  suppose,  however,  that 
the  contrast  between  the  Kandian  and  the 
Singhalese  is  solely  the  result  of  physical  cir- 
cumstances or  conditions,  or,  indeed,  chiefly 
so,"  continued  mine  host ;  "  the  history  of 
oui-  country,  which  few  Englishmen  know  any- 
thing about,  shows  plainly  that  other  causes 
besides  temperature  and  situation  have  been  at 
work  to  produce  this  contrast." 

"  I  fear  I  too  must  plead  ignorance  of  the 
liistory  to  which  you  allude,"  I  observed. 

"  It  would  be  weU  for  us,  Sir,"  he  continued, 
"  if,  indeed,  it  can  at  aU  be  well  with  slaves 
such  as  we  are,  did  all  Englishmen  know  some- 
thing of  our  history,  ere  they  came  to  govern 
or  to  dwell  amongst  us ;  they  would  respect  us 
more,  believe  me — if,  as  I  said,  any  Hngering 
remnants  of  respect  can  anywhere  be  fished  out 
of  deep  human  contempt  for  slaves.  Our  royal 
and  noble  families  can  trace  back  thek  pedi- 
grees through  lines  of  statesmen  and  warriors  to 
the  time  of  your  era  and  before.  A  noble  whose 
family  only  boasted  of  such  antiquity  as  ,your 
Howards  and  Stanleys,  would,  amongst  us,  be 
considered  '  a  new  man.'     You  smile  at  these 


144 


CONVERSATION   WITH 


comparisons,  doubtless,  if  not  externally,  at  least 
internally ;  jou.  may  so ;  yet,  what  your 
Howards  and  Stanleys  are  now,  and  have  been 
in  days  gone  by,  our  Molhgoddes  and  Kapitti- 
polas,  with  similar  lights  and  influences,  might 
have  been.  Nor  are  we  without  our  Agin- 
courts  and  Cressj^s,  our  Blenheims  and  AVater- 
loos,  although  on  a  smaller  scale.  There  was 
a  time.  Sir,  when  Ceylonese  arms  conquered  all 
Southern  India,  the  country  of  om'  natural 
enemies — our  France,  in  fact.  There  were  in- 
vasions on  both  sides  frequently,  and  the  Gulf 
of  Manaar  has  as  often  been  covered  by  warhke 
armaments  as  the  English  Channel ;  for  years 
our  superiority  was  confessed — our  kings  carried 
all  before  them,  extending  their  arms  from 
India  to  the  Eastern  peninsula,  where  our  re- 
ligion was  permanently  planted,  a  living  monu- 
ment of  our  former  prowess.  Not  very  long 
after  William  the  Conqueror  destroyed  Saxon 
liberty  in  England,  Prackrama,  om*  Idng,  was 
successfully  carrying  the  arms  and  warriors  of 
Ceylon  into  Bui'mah  and  Cambodia,  which  he 
thorougld}"  subdued.'*  Pardon  me,  Sir,  but  I 
love  to  linger  over  these  deeds  of  other  years. 


*  In  the  Appendix  will  be  fotind    an   account  of  the  reign   of 
Prackrama. 


A   KANDIAN  CHIEF.  145 

when  the  title  I  bear*  was  the  symbol  of  com- 
mand over  a  thousand  men,  and  not  an  almost 
mimeaning  civic  distinction.  Miserable  is  the 
nation  that  can  but  boast  of  the  deeds  of  its 
ancestors,  whilst  it  mourns  existing  debasement, 
without  the  faintest  hope  of  eradicating  it ! 

"  I  intended  to  show  you  why,  as  history 
tells  us,  the  Singhalese  of  the  coast  and  the 
Kandian  of  the  mountains  are  not  like  fellow- 
countrymen,  nay,  are  most  unlike.  It  was 
early  in  the  sixteenth  century,  as  you  count 
centuries,  although  in  our  twenty-second,  that 
the  Portuguese  first  landed  in  this  island. 
Their  guns  and  sliips  equally  astonished  the 
degenerate  men  of  the  day,  for  civil  wars  and 
inhuman  tyranny  had  accomphshed  their  usual 
feat  of  destroying  the  spirit  of  the  nation. 

"  The  coast  was  speedily  conquered  by  them, 
but  all  their  attempts  upon  the  mountainous 
interior,  defended  as  it  was  by  Kandian 
valour,  miserably  failed,  and,  for  one  hundi'ed 
and  fifty  years,  the  heart  of  our  island  beat  as 
freely  and  as  manlike  as  ever,  although  the 
extremities  had  been  trained  to  obey  their  new 
masters.  The  Dutch  came,  and,  aided  by 
Kandian  arms,  they  drove  out  the  Portuguese, 

*  That  of  Modliar. 
VOL.   I.  H 


140  CONVERSATION   WITH 

under  the  promise  of  liberating  the  island,  but 
the  forts  were  strong  upon  the  coast,  its  wealth 
was  enticing,  and  they  seized  for  themselves 
that,  of  which  they  had  succeeded,  by  our  help, 
in  depriving  their  enemies.  Violent  were  the 
efforts  to  dislodge  them — the  low-lands  con- 
tinued theii'S  notwithstanding — and  for  nearly 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years  more  seemed  con- 
tented with  its  new  masters.  Thus  you  see 
oui*  coast-Singhalese  fellow-countrymen  have 
served  three  sets  of  sovereigns  in  succession, 
whilst  our  bondage,  I  mean  that  of  the  Kandian 
provinces,  is  but  as  that  of  yesterday  in  compa- 
rison ;  free  for  more  than  two  thousand  years, 
we  have  been  slaves  for  thirty,  and  what  are 
tliirty  years  in  the  life -time  of  a  nation  ?  Is 
it  any  wonder  then  that  there  should  be  a  con- 
trast between  the  two  ?" 

"  Yes,"  I  rcpHed,  "  this  does  indeed  suffi- 
ciently account  for  the  wide  difference  between 
the  Kandians  and  the  Singhidese,  but  it 
appears  to  me  that,  with  a  very  pardonable 
national  vanity,  you  attribute  the  long  inde- 
pendence of  the  Kandians  to  a  different  motive 
from  the  true  one.  Sm-ely  the  natm-al  features 
of  the  country  would  be  sufficient  to  repel  any 
invaders.     Do  not  mistake  me.     My  object  is 


A  KAJSTDIAN  CHIEF.  147 

not  to  prove  that  the  Kandians  are  not  brave — 
all  allow  that  fact — but  where  natural  difficul- 
ties of  an  almost  insuperable  character  presented 
themselves,  surely  we  need  not  look  for  any 
other  cause  of  defeat.  The  immense  superio- 
rity of  European  over  Asiatic  arms,  and  the 
perfection  to  which  the  science  of  slaughtering 
man  has  been  brought  in  the  West,  puts  the 
consideration  of  personal  bravery  almost  out  of 
the  question." 

"  The  rugged  mountains,"  replied  Marand- 
han,  "  wliich  encircle,  like  the  quiUs  on  the 
porcupine,  the  heart  of  our  island,  doubtless  did 
much  to  protect  us,  but  these  difficulties  were 
again  and  again  surmounted  by  the  enterprising 
Portuguese.  Their  armies  frequently  made 
their  way  to  Kandy,  but  were  always  ulti- 
mately expeUed.  They  took  advantage  to  the 
utmost  of  the  disputes  of  the  princes,  and 
always  added  new  elements  of  discord  when 
they  could,  in  disputed  successions  or  contests 
for  the  throne ;  but  without  ultimate  success. 
Nay  so  far  from  assured  success  of  any  kind, 
that  often,  of  all  their  coast  possessions,  a  fort 
or  two  was  alone  left  to  them — the  hard  walls 
of  which  formed  impenetrable  obstacles  to  un- 
scientific Asiatic  valour.     Yet  there  were  they 

H  2 


148  CONVERSATION  WITH 

cooped  up  for  months,  sometimes  for  years,  by 
a  blockading  army  of  Kandians,  wliich,  without 
artillery  and  the  command  of  the  sea,  could  do 
notliing  effectual,  till  in  their  despair  and 
famine,  whilst  still  looking  anxiously  sea-ward 
for  supplies,  they  actually  began  to  eat  one 
another !  This  is  no  romance,  Sir,  nor  the 
coinage  of  an  overheated  brain,  but  these  are 
the  words  of  sober  history  and  truth,  as  the 
Portuguese  chroniclers  and  your  own,  avouch, 
for  I  have  taken  some  pains  to  make  myself 
acquainted  with  their  works." 

"  You  are  right,  Modliar.  These  facts  are 
but  little  known,  I  fear,  to  Em'opeans  generally, 
and  it  would  probably  be  well  for  her  children, 
if  the  history  of  Ceylon  were  more  studied  by 
all  who  make  her  rich  low-lands,  or  her  rugged 
mountain  sides,  their  home." 

"  The  study  of  that  history  would,  1  believe," 
said  he,  somewhat  bitterly,  "  make  your  coun- 
trymen think  something  more  of  us — spaniels 
though  we  may  appear  to  be  upon  the  coast — 
at  the  same  time  that  it  must  make  the 
Englishman  think  more  of  himself,  and  of  his 
country ;  for  must  not  the  reflection  occur  to 
him — what  the  Portuguese  and  Dutch,  whilst 
living  in  the  island  for  three  hundred  years, 


A  KANDIAN   CHIEF.  149 

could  not  accomplisli  by  force  or  fraud,  we,  be- 
fore we  had  been  twenty,  had  fully  effected?" 

"  But  were  not  the  British  invited  into  the 
interior  to  aid  in  dethroning  some  inhuman 
monster,  and  then  forced  to  extend  their  domi- 
nion by  breach  of  treaty  on  the  part  of  the 
Kandian  authorities,  involving  the  massacre  of 
some  British  troops  ?"  I  asked.  "  I  retain  some 
confrised  images  of  this  kind,  dimly  floating 
over  the  surface  of  my  memory,  from  what  little 
I  have  read  of  these  matters." 

*'  A  people  in  possession  of  the  coast,"  re- 
pHed  the  Modhar,  "  all  powerful  by  sea,  and 
completely  masters  of  the  adjoining  continent, 
would  find  httle  difiiculty  in  getting  invitations 
into  the  interior ;  nor  was  there  an  Eastern 
despot,  I  suppose,  that  ever  hved  that  might  not 
be  made  to  appear  inhuman  when  his  actions 
were  properly  coloured  to  horrify  an  European 
audience,  I  know  nothing  of  the  secrets  of 
cabinets,  or  of  the  working  of  that  pohtical 
machine,  a  Court,  but  I  can  easily  conceive  a 
disappointed  or  discarded  minister  wishing  to 
embarrass  his  successor  in  every  possible  way, 
and  little  scrupulous  of  the  means,  when  passion 
or  interest  urged  him  on ;  such  a  minister,  we 
are  told,  fled  to  Colombo,  and  asked  the  assist- 


150  CONVEESATION   WITH 

ance  of  a  British  force  against  the  tjTant  who 
would  employ  him  no  longer,  and  against  the 
stability  of  whose  throne  he  had  been  plotting. 
I  have  known  some  who  were  intimately 
acquainted  with  the  private  hfe  of  the  last 
King  of  Kandy,  and  they  accused  him  of  weak- 
ness of  intellect,  and  of  headlong  fits  of  passion, 
but  of  nothing  worse.  Certainly  not  of  worse 
things  than  sovereigns  now  upheld  in  India 
at  Hyderabad  and  Lucknow,  by  the  British 
authorities,  and  whose  tlirone,  in  fact,  rests 
upon  British  bayonets,  are  constantly  guilty 
of.  But  the  nation  that  has  not  the  spirit  to 
die  in  the  struggle  for  freedom  deserves  its 
abasement,  and  it  is  useless  to  extenuate  the 
circumstances  on  either  side ;  the  result  is  pal- 
pable— on  all  sides  we  have  but  to  half  open 
our  eyes  to  see  it  too.  A  country  enslaved — 
a  nobility  falling  into  the  depths  of  servility — 
a  rehgion  tottermg  under  the  incessant  attacks, 
open  and  secret,  of  that  patronized  by  our 
rulers.  Altogether  as  miserable  and  lament- 
able a  spectacle  as  the  eye  of  man  probably 
ever  witnessed." 

"  The  theme  is  a  melancholy  one  for  you, 
who  feel  so  acutely,  Modliar,"  said  I ;  "  but, 
beheve  me,  I  did  not  introduce  it  from  any 


A   KANDIAN   CHIEF.  151 

evil  motives,  or  even  from  a  vain  curiosity. 
If  it  be  any  consolation  to  you  to  know  that 
you  have  made  one  European  think  better 
of  you  and  of  Ceylon,  you  have  that  consola- 
tion ;  and  it  will  be  long  indeed  ere  I  forget 
the  eloquence,  both  of  tongue  and  eye,  with 
which  you  assert  your  country's  claims  to 
respect.  But  surely  there  are  lights  as  well  as 
shadows  in  this  grand  historic  painting.  Is 
there  not  social  improvement  visible  ?  Is  not 
education  spreading  amongst  the  people  ? 
Are  not  war  and  bloodshed  put  an  end  to 
in  the  island  ?  No  more  disputes,  their  history 
written  in  characters  of  blood,  for  the  throne  ; 
no  more  warring  of  coast  with  hills,  or  hills 
with  coast ;  no  more  foreign  invasion  or  domes- 
tic disturbance."  * 

"  Thanks  for  your  kind  words,"  said  he. 
"  They,  like  cool  draughts  for  the  fevered 
blood,  have  their  value  and  their  use.  As  to 
the  present  state  of  tilings,  we,  in  our  Oriental 
pahn-leaf  books,  have  a  fable,  often  referred  to, 
that  illustrates  it.  A  company  of  ants  had 
collected,  with  long  toil  and  incessant  labour,  a 
great  heap    of  corn.     '  Now,'   said  they,   '  we 

*  It  must  be  remembered  that  this  conversation  was  held  some  years 
before  the  late  rebellion  under  Lord  Torrington's  administration. 


152  CONVERSATION  WITH 

have  worked  enough,  let  us  enjoy.'  Hereupon 
violent  disputes  arose  amongst  them  as  to  the 
division  of  their  store.  Some  would  have  too 
much  for  the  present ;  others  wanted  their 
whole  portion  at  once ;  others  declared  they 
should  feed  in  common.  At  length  they 
decided  that  a  venerable  grey -beard,  assisted 
by  able  diplomatists,  should  decide  the  disputes, 
having  authority  to  enforce  his  decisions.  A 
big  burly  fellow,  with  an  excellent  appetite,  got 
a  good  round  share,  and  professed  himself 
contented,  but,  in  the  night,  tried  notwith- 
standing to  steal  some  more.  He  was  brought 
before  the  grey-beard.  'Let  his  portion  be 
taken  from  him,'  said  the  judge,  '  and  distri- 
buted amongst  others.  Nevertheless,  he  shall 
be  fed  daily,  if  he  works  hard,  and  must  not 
starve ;  and  if  he,  by  repentance,  proves  his 
sorrow,  he  shall  be  restored  to  our  favour,  and 
get  a  share  at  last  nearly  equal  to  that  which 
he  has  forfeited.'  The  big  burly  fellow  was 
discontented  however,  and  stealing  off,  like  a 
thief  as  he  was,  came  to  a  sparrow  who  had 
found  great  difficulty  in  providing  for  her 
numerous  young  ones.  Her  he  told  of  the 
store,  and  of  the  weak  point  of  the  ant-hill. 
Collecting   her   Httle   ones,    she   flew  directly 


A  KAISTDIAN  CHIEF.  153 

to  the  neighbourliood,  and  conveyed  them  all 
there  in  safety,  one  by  one.  Then  speedily 
making  an  entry  into  the  ant-hill — '  My 
friends,'  said  she,  '  you  are  all  quarrelhng 
here ;  brethren  should  live  in  peace  and  amity. 
These  stores  of  corn  are  the  cause  of  all  your 
troubles.  I  wish  to  make  you  happier,  and 
therefore  I  shall  relieve  you  of  what  is  to  you 
a  serious  annoyance.'  So  saying,  she  caUed 
her  brood,  and  the  corn  stores  were  speedily 
demoHshed — all  that  could  not  then  and  there 
be  eaten,  being  conveyed  to  her  nest.  '  And 
my  share,'  whispered  the  big  burty  fellow 
that  had  brought  her.  '  Traitor,  you  do  well 
to  remind  me  of  your  treachery  to  your  rela- 
tions,' she  exclaimed,  as  she  picked  him  up  in 
her  bill,  and  he  disappeared.  AU  that  re- 
mained of  the  ants,  from  that  moment,  were  on 
a  footing  of  equality — there  was  no  fear  of  any 
further  disputes  respecting  the  division  of  pro- 
perty amongst  them." 

"  Your  apologue  is  amusing,  Modhar,  at  aU 
events,"  said  I,  smiling,  "  if  not  very  apt ;  but 
it  does  appear  to  me  that  you  take  the  gloomiest 
view  of  things.  You  surely  will  allow  that 
the  civilization  of  the  West,  with  its  world- 

H  3 


154  COITVERSATION   WITS 

traversing  ships  and  engines  of  every  kind  to 
diminish  human  toil,  is  a  superior  tiling  to  that 
of  the  East,  with  its  empty  despotic  shows,  and 
stand-still-do-notliingness.  Progress  is  the  law 
of  humanity  as  estabhshed  by  nature ;  immo- 
bility was  the  law  of  Eastern  despotism,  and 
hence  it  was  unnatural ;  and,  like  all  unnatural 
tilings,  was  destined  to  speedy  destruction,  root 
and  branch." 

"  I  am  not  by  any  means  insensible  to  the 
grand  facts  of  European  civilization,"  replied 
Marandhan ;  "  but  whether  they  lead,  with 
their  restless  uneasy  change,  to  heaA^en  or  to 
hell,  I  am  not  aware.  No  paradise  of  man,  it 
appears  to  me,  is  to  be  found  in  this  ever-roU- 
ing,  never-stopping  whirl  of  frothy  commotion. 
Far  otherwise.  Ships  capable  of  traversing  the 
ocean  in  all  directions,  and  journeying  from 
pole  to  pole,  and  from  antipodes  to  antipodes, 
are  grand  facts  in  tliis  new  civilization  of  the 
West ;  but  we,  in  times  past,  have  had  the 
like,  although  by  no  means  equal — far  inferior, 
doubtless,  to  yours :  but  these  very  ships  are 
themselves  an  element  in  that  ever-whirling 
frothy  change.  They  make  men  look  to  change, 
and  not  to  permanence,  as  their  greatest  happi- 


A  KANDIAN  CHIEF.  155 

ness ;  and  that  is,  in  my  mind,  a  lie.  And 
then,  as  to  your  engines,  that  diminish  human 
labour,  do  your  people  work  less,  or  require  to 
work  less,  now  than  before  ?  nay,  if  the  ac- 
counts I  see  in  books,  be  true,  the  labouring 
poor  of  England  find  it  difficult  to  keep  ragged 
or  naked  starvation  from  their  very  doors. 
Indeed,  I  have  heard  gentlemen  from  England 
say,  that  the  poor  of  Ceylon  are  infinitely  better 
ofi"  than  those  of  their  own  country.  In  God's 
name  then,  may  we  not  ask,  if  not  for  the 
benefit  and  happiness  of  your  own  people,  for 
whose  do  you  come  and  make  India  and  Ceylon 
subject,  the  Cape,  America,  and  innumerable 
islands  here  and  there  ?  Strange  advance  that 
leaves  more  misery  at  home  than  it  finds  abroad ! 
strange  glory  that  cannot  even  hide  hunger, 
destitution,  and  want  of  all  things,  in  its  ample 
cloak !" 

"  The  very  superabundance  of  the  population 
of  England  proves  the  prosperity  of  the 
country,"  said  I. 

"  Then  so  did  that  of  Bengal  under  its  worst 
tyrants — tyrants,  at  whose  doings  virtuous 
England  has  held  up  her  hands  in  horror,"  was 
his  reply. 

*'  The  cases  are  not  analogous,"  I  argued. 


156  CONVERSATION   WITH 

"  Tropical  luxuriance  supplies  that  food  in  the 
one  case,  which,  in  the  other,  must  be  wrung 
hardly  from  a  scanty  soil.  But  it  is  not  so 
much  in  physical,  as  in  moral  and  mental 
respects,  that  European  civilization  stands  so 
pre-eminent.  The  science,  the  pliilosophy  of 
Eui'ope,  is  of  the  liighest  character  that  tliis 
earth  has  yet  seen.  Man,  with  a  hammer  in 
his  hand,  breaks  the  rocks,  and  finds  the  hand- 
writing of  ages  on  them  ;  from  which  hand- 
writing he  decyphers  the  history  of  his  planet, 
thousands,  perhaj)s  millions,  of  years  before  he 
appeared  on  it.  He  shapes  a  tube,  and  wanders 
in  the  immensity  of  space,  through  other 
systems  and  other  suns,  and  sees  wide  universes 
on  every  side.  Surely,  Modliar,  there  is  a 
nobility  in  such  thoughts,  which  even  the 
meanest  may  conceive,  that  tells  well  for  our 
European  civilization  in  this  much  abused 
nineteenth  century  ?" 

"  You  are  younger  than  I  am,"  said  he, 
quietly,  "  and  have  higher  and  brighter  hopes. 
Thoughts  such  as  you  have  hinted  at,  wonder- 
fully feed  our  vanity,  and  are,  in  my  mind, 
extremely  deceitful.  Man,  as  you  say,  finds  out 
everything  about  everything,  except  about  him- 
self ;  and  that  knowledge  about  himself  is  pre- 


A  KANDIAN   CHIEF.  157 

cisely  of  the  most  importance  to  him.  Wliether 
he  knows  more  of  himself,  with  aU  those  pyro- 
teclinic  flashes,  that  dazzle,  but  do  not  iUumine 
some  of  us,  at  all  events,  I  cannot  pretend 
absolutely  to  determine.  But  I  shall  bring  in 
the  testimony  of  a  man  who,  for  fifty  years  I  have 
heard,  was  at  the  head  of  European  literature, 
and  who  was  an  ardent  cultivator,  and  success- 
ful explorer  in  that  field  of  science  you  praise 
so  much.  What  says  he,  with  all  his  modem 
lights,  pyrotechnic  and  otherwise  ? 

'  Stars  silent  roll  over  us, 
Graves  under  us  silent.' 

Profoundly  significant  appear  to  me  these  few 
words,  meaning,  among  other  things,  that  he, 
for  his  part,  had  not  learned  much  of  the 
origin  or  destiny  of  humanity  from  all  his  re- 
searches," 

"  I  am  amazed,"  I  replied,  "  at  your  depre- 
ciation of  these  ennobling  thoughts.  To  me 
they  appear  to  be  of  practical  importance  the 
most  extraordinary,  inasmuch  as  they  cultivate 
the  soul,  and  make  it  look  something  farther 
than  the  eye  can  see.  They  give  it  a  tone  it 
cannot  otherwise  acquii-e — an  elevation,  a  supe- 
riority, a  power  and  vigom'  unattainable  in  any 
other  way.     Nor  did   I   conceive   it   possible 


158  COXVERSATION  WITH 

that  an  enlightened  mind  like  yours  should 
for  a  moment  uphold  Eastern  in  preference  to 
Western  civilization." 

"  Let  us  talk  over  the  matter  then/'  replied 
mine  host,  bringing  his  chair  nearer  to  mine, 
"  quietly  and  argumentatively.  Take  another 
cigar;  it  conduces  to  thought.  Yes,  I  must 
confess,  I  look  upon  these  noble  thoughts  as 
so  many  air  balloons,  yielding  mighty  rumb- 
lings when  struck  and  wonderful  to  gaze  at, 
but  difficult  of  practical  application  to  any  useful 
purpose  on  this  earth.  To  ask  me  to  prefer 
Western  to  Eastern  civihzation  is  to  ask  me  to 
prefer  Christianity  to  Budhism,  which  I  cannot 
do.  The  civihzation  of  Ceylon,  of  Tartary,  of 
Chin-India  is  Budhistic — that  of  Europe  is 
Clmstian ;  and  retaining  my  prejudices,  if  you 
will — convictions,  I  should  have  said — in  favour 
of  Budhism,  I  must  prefer  its  influence  in  most 
ways.  But  I  am  ready  to  talk  over  the  matter 
quietly  with  you." 

"  At  some  other  time,  then,"*  said  I.  "I 
have  ah'cady  trespassed  too  much  on  your 
goodness,  and  am  deeply  grateful  for  the  in- 


*  My  subsequent  conversations  with  Marandhan  on  the  subject  of 
Budhism  and  Christianity  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix  to  the 
second  volume. 


A   KANDIAX   CHIEF.  159 

formation  you  have  given  me,  and  the  pleasure 
I  have  received  in  conversing  with  you." 

So  saying,  I  took  my  leave,  my  stock  of 
knowledge  increased,  my  eyes  very  considerably 
opened  on  many  points,  by  this  conversation. 


160  INCIDENTS   IX 


CHAPTEE  YI. 

A  DAY  AT  A  FRIEND'S-SNAKES  AND  MONKEYS. 

"  There  was  more  foolery  yet,  if  I  could  remember  it." 

Julius  Casar,  act  i.|  sc.  2. 

The  incidents  of  the  planter's  life  are  not  gene- 
rally of  a  very  strange  or  exciting  character. 
The  felling  of  a  new  piece  of  forest ;  the  plant- 
ing of  the  newly-cleared  ground ;  the  engaging 
of  a  new  gang  of  coolies  or  labourers,  and  their 
subsequent  dismission,  when  the  picking  and 
manufacturing  periods  are  over ;  the  occasional 
starting  of  a  leopard  or  bear  in  the  uncleared 
land;  the  destruction  caused  by  some  wild 
elephant,  banished  from  his  herd,  and  an  out- 
cast from  society  generally ;  the  happy  antici- 
pations of  a  heavy  crop,  or  the  gloomy  fore- 
bodings of  a  more  than  ordinarily  hght  one  ; 
these,   with   an   occasional    journey   to    some 


A  planter's  life.  161 

friends  in  the  neighbourhood,  to  Kandy  or  to 
Colombo,  form  the  staple  of  the  varieties  of  his 
existence.  To  these  must  be  added  the  arrival 
of  his  letters,  and  particularly  of  the  EngHsh 
mail.  That  is,  indeed,  a  joyous  time  !  How 
he  luxuriates  in  the  well-known  address  that 
heads  the  letter  from  home,  telling,  probably, 
of  boyish  days,  raising  happy  associations,  re- 
calling a  host  of  incidents  that  the  cobwebs  of 
memory  have  been  gradually  rendering  dim 
and  dingy  in  his  mind.  The  old  famihar  hand- 
writing, too — it  is  dear  to  the  banished  exile, 
nay,  beloved  by  him.  But  how  much  more 
the  quaint  old  thoughts,  the  remarks  on  his 
letters,  so  fall  of  home  and  simpHcity — it  is 
breathing  English  air  again  to  read  them ! 
Tlie  same  stereotyped  advice  that  a  fond  mother 
has  been  inculcating  from  the  day  he  first  left 
her  watchful  eye — the  same  anxious  exhorta- 
tions of  sisters  and  maiden  aunts  to  be  careful, 
and  not  to  expose  himself  heedlessly  or  rashly 
to  danger  from  wild  animals,  and  by  no  means 
to  associate  much  with  that  horrid  Mr.  A., 
that  reckless  Mr.  B.,  or  that  plausible,  but 
dangerous,  Mr.  C.  The  sly  hints  of  the  more 
"  knowing  ones,"  that  it  would  be  well  to 
avoid  exaggeration   of  all  kinds,  are  equally 


162  LIFE   IN  THE   JUNGLE. 

amusing,  as  an  exhibition  of  self-satisfied  hu- 
manity, that  would  show  itself  so  much  above 
the  common,  gently  liinting  many  things, 
openly  asserting  few  or  none  —  quahfication 
built  on  quahfication,  until  the  entire  epistle 
grows  into  one  gigantic  "if"  and  "  but." 

The  fact  is,  no  man  can  hve  long  in  the 
jungle  without  encountering  many  adventures, 
which  the  aforesaid  "knowing  ones"  would 
deem  highly  problematical,  if  not  absolutely 
false;  brought  into  constant  contact,  in  some 
way  or  other,  with  the  wild  denizens  of  the 
forest,  he  must  either  be  a  Avitness  to,  or  hear 
of,  dangers,  escapes,  struggles,  and  accidents, 
that  many  would  doubt,  and  some  absolutely 
reject  as  untrue.  Unhmited  scepticism  leads, 
perhaps,  to  more  errors  than  unlimited  credu- 
lity ;  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  latter 
is  the  happier  quahty  of  the  two.  Every  one 
has  heard  of  the  sagacity  of  that  good  old 
Scotch  dame,  whose  son,  an  apprentice  on  board 
a  West  Indian  ship,  returned  to  her,  brimful 
of  news,  from  his  first  voyage.  "  Plying  fish, 
Jock,"  said  she,  with  a  wise  shake  of  the  head ; 
"  na,  na,  lad,  ye'se  no  get  me  to  believe  that. 
Sich-a-lilve  monsters  I  never  heerd  tell  on 
before ;  and  dootless,  Jock,  an'  ther'  war  sich 


LIFE   IN   THE   JUNGLE.  163 

the  Bible  would  say  someat  aboot  them." 
"  Oh,  then,"  said  Jock,  "  I  suppose,  mither, 
there's  no  use  in  teUing  you  of  the  sugar- 
mountains  and  the  rum-river  in  Jamaica  ?  But 
you  speer't  at  me,  mither,  about  what  I  saw, 
and  sae  I  teU't  you."  "  Noo,  Jock,"  said  the 
old  dame,  smiling  sagaciously — "  noo,  Jock, 
your  talkin'  the  words  of  truth  and  soberness, 
I  ken  weel,  for  a'  the  sugar  and  the  rum,  I 
heerd  your  father  often  say,  comes  from  that 
part,  and  sae  I  see  nae  reason  why  they  should 
na  have  their  mountains  of  sugar  there  weel 
eneugh,  ay  and  their  rivers  of  rrnn  tae." 

We  had  been  very  busy  getting  in  our  crops 
— every  hand  hard  at  work — every  corner  of 
the  plantation  alive  with  men  from  earliest 
dawn  to  the  latest  glimpse  of  Hght,  picking  the 
berry  or  bringing  it  by  bullocks  or  by  hand  to 
the  pulping  machine  or  to  the  drying  platform. 
New  cooHes  at  work  to  be  looked  after,  much 
of  every  kind  of  work  requiring  to  be  done,  and 
but  Httle  time  to  do  it  in — the  manager's  eyes 
required  everywhere,  whilst  he,  heated  and  ex- 
cited, moves  rapidly  from  place  to  place,  now 
inspecting  the  pickers,  and  anon  galloping  off 
to  the  machinery,  forming  all  the  way  abstruse 
calculations  as  to  the  probable  result  of  the 


164  THE    HOFERS. 

season.  All  bustle  and  excitement,  healthy 
hopeful  work  too  that  year — the  "  out-turn," 
as  we  called  it,  rather  above  the  average. 

At  such  a  period,  there  was  no  time  for 
calling,  and,  for  some  months,  I  saw  httle  or 
nothing  of  the  Hofers.  At  length,  when  the 
bags  of  coffee  were  almost  all  despatched  on  the 
road  to  Colombo,  and  a  little  breathing  time  al- 
lowed, a  servant  from  Lanka  brought  me  a  note 
from  Hofer,  asking  me  to  come  and  spend  the 
following  day  with  them.     I  joyfully  assented. 

Starting  early  I  reached  their  estate  in  time 
for  breakfast.  Their  bungalow  was  situated  on 
the  levelled  top  of  a  round  and  gently  sloping 
hill — a  small  round  hill,  about  twice  the  size  of 
that  Primrose,  which  reminds  the  true  Londoner 
of  the  AljDs,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  lofty 
mountains ;  a  vast  amphitheatre,  in  fact,  from 
the  centre  of  which  rose  this  Lanka  hill,  and 
on  the  flattened  summit  stood  then-  bungalow. 
A  strange  situation,  and  picturesque,  but  not 
more  so  than  that  of  many  other  bungalows 
in  the  district;  highly  couvenient,  moreover, 
inasmuch  as  the  sides  of  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains, on  which  the  cultivation  was  chiefly 
carried  on,  were  all  more  or  less  distinctly 
visible  from  its  verandas.     As  I  crested  the 


THEIR   BUNGALOW.  165 

southern    hill,    and   turned    "  Uncle    Toby's " 
head   downwards  into  the  vaUey,  now  inter- 
vening between  me  and  the  Lanka  bungalow,  I 
had  a  beautiful  bird's  eye  view  of  the  entire 
estate — the  sides    of  the   gigantic  mountains 
contrasting  strangely  with  the  little  artificial- 
like mound  in  the  centre,  on  the  summit  of 
which  the  bungalow  and  works  seemed  like 
those  little  painted  toy-houses  of  which  chil- 
dren are  so  fond.     A  small  stream  completely 
encircled  the  central  hiUs,  entering  "  the  happy 
valley,"  as  we  planters  called  it,  from  the  west, 
and  dividing,  so  as  to  encircle  the  mound,  be- 
fore it  made  its  exit,  brawling  and  foaming 
through  a  chasm  on  the  east.     Here  and  there 
on  the  sides  of  the  amphitheatre  by  which  I 
was  surrounded,  patches  of  the  forest  remained 
in  the  narrow  chinks  or  chasms  with  which 
the  hills  abound,  affording  to  the  eye  a  pleasant 
rehef  in  the  dull  uniformity  of  the  hues  of  fallen 
trees,  with  the  small  coffee  bushes  just  begin- 
ning to  be  visible  at  a  Kttle  distance  between 
them.     On  the  northern  side,  that  facing  me  as 
I  rode  downwards,  the  jungle  was  untouched, 
and  still  w^aved  in  its  primeval  luxm'iance. 

Arrived  at  the  little  stream,  over  which  a 
substantial  bridge  led  the  way  to  the  bungalow 


166  JUNGLE   LIFE, 

above,  I  passed  the  "  lines,"  or  dwellings  of  the 
coolies,  situated  behind  a  clump  of  mangoe 
trees,  through  which  the  eager  occupants  in- 
spected the  strange  mahathma  and  his  horse, 
both,  to  the  uncultivated  natives,  equal  objects 
of  interest. 

On  reaching  the  summit  of  the  hill,  on  which 
the  bungalow  stood,  I  found  the  breakfast- 
table  most  invitingly  laid  out  on  the  western 
or  shaded  side  of  the  verandah,  whilst  the  tall 
graceful  figure  of  mine  hostess,  garnished  with 
a  broad-brimmed  Spanish  hat,  tended  the 
flowers  bordering  the  road.  A  servant  having 
held  my  bridle  and  stirrups,  I  dismounted  and 
advanced  to  salute  Mrs.  Hofer,  who  was  now 
standing  at  the  edge  of  the  verandah  to  receive 
me.  The  Spanish  hat  added  a  new  charm  to 
her  lovely  countenance,  which  was  flushed 
vdth  heat  and  toil,  whilst  her  hair  feU  in 
thick,  massive,  black  ringlets  over  her  shoul- 
ders. Her  form  was  well  set  ofi"  in  a  tasteful 
dressing-gown,  tied  round  the  waist  with  cords 
from  which  depended  two  tassels.  Altogether 
there  was  a  bizarre,  and  yet  an  exquisitely 
graceful,  air  about  her,  which  heightened  the 
charm  of  her  purely  feminine  beauty. 

"  Ernest,  like  yourself,"  said  she,  as  I  shook 


JUNGLE  LIFE.  167 

hands  with  her,  "  has  been  taking  a  long  ride 
this  morning,  and  would  have  gone  to  meet 
you  had  not  business  taken  him  in  another 
direction.  But  you  would  hke  to  wash  your 
hands — Mamdeli !"  Mamdeli  appeared.  "  Take 
the  mafiathma  into  Mr.  Hofer's  dressingr-room." 

Hofer  soon  after  made  his  appearance,  and 
we  sat  down  to  breakfast. 

We  were  seated  in  the  open  verandah, 
thoroughly  shaded  from  the  sun,  with  a  view 
to  the  west  of  the  most  striking  character. 
There  were  the  two  gigantic  hills  opposite 
and  at  some  little  distance,  whilst  tlurough 
the  valley  between,  the  Paloya  flowed  into 
this  happy  region,  as  if  lovingly  to  embrace 
the  bungalow-crowned  Mil  on  the  summit  of 
which  we  sat.  Nearer  to  us  was  a  garden 
tended  by  Mrs.  Hofer  herself,  the  walks  and 
flowers  of  which  ended  in  the  thick  brush- 
wood and  mightier  forest  vegetation  stretching 
down  to  the  little  stream.  It  was  a  scene  to 
make  any  man's  heart  glad  who  could  find 
gladness  anywhere  in  nature.  Yet  I  thought 
I  could  distinguish  a  shade  of  melancholy  pass 
over  my  fair  hostess'  features,  as  the  joyous 
laugh  of  children  was  borne  faintly  on  the 
breeze  from  the  labourers'  cottages  below.      It 


168  PLANTING  TOPICS. 

might  possibly  have  been  fancy  on  my  part, 
but  it  certainly  left  the  impression  on  my  mind 
that  she  would  be  happier  had  she  a  little  one 
to  rear  tenderly  and  wisely  amid  this  profusion 
of  natural  beauty.  Hofer  w^as  in  excellent 
spirits,  and  seemed  to  be  ignorant  of,  or  to 
ignore,  this  feehng,  if  any  such  existed,  on  his 
wife's  part.  Our  conversation,  as  might  be 
supposed,  was  principally  of  the  crops,  of  our 
late  bustle  and  hurry  and  hard  work,  of  his 
felling  and  planting,  of  his  nui'sery,  of  the 
laziness  of  the  coolies,  and  the  cunning  false- 
hoods of  the  cang allies,*  of  the  miserable 
bullocks,  and  the  difficulty  of  getting  an  ade- 
quate supply,  of  the  comparative  excellences 
and  defects  of  the  various  pulping  machines  in 
use,  and  of  the  various  measures  wdiich  we 
severally  adopted  in  many  matters — aU  inte- 
resting themes  to  each  of  us,  but  by  no 
means  so  to  others.  Nor  did  the  state  of 
the  market  escape  our  astute  observations,  the 
last  mercantile  circulars  and  private  advices 
being  frequently  referred  to,  as  we  discussed 
that  point. 

Breaki'ast  concluded,  Hofer  took  me  to  see  a 


*  Each  gang  of  coolies  has  a  head-man  to  watcli  over  and  direct  it, 
and  he  is  called  its  canyuny. 


A  PLEASANT   RIDE.  169 

new  piece  of  machinery,  lately  contrived  and 
erected  by  himself,  which  he  had  found,  but 
for  one  or  two  accidents  caused  by  the  exces- 
sive stupidity  of  the  coolies,  as  he  said,  work 
admirably  well.  He  had  adopted  too  a  new 
method  of  preserving  the  roads  on  his  planta- 
tion during  the  rains,  with  which,  at  present, 
he  was  very  busy,  but,  as  this  new  method  had 
not  yet  been  tested  by  our  tropical  deluges,  I 
did  not  feel  much  anxiety  to  witness  it. 

About  twelve  o'clock,  Mrs.  Hofer  being 
ready,  we  started  eastward  for  a  ride,  for  she 
was  an  excellent  horsewoman,  and  fond  of  the 
exercise.  Hofer  accompanied  us  for  a  short 
distance,  and  then  darted  off  in  another  chrec- 
tion  to  see  what  success  had  attended  the 
fishing  in  the  Paloya,  which  he  had  ordered  in 
the  morning.  Crossing  the  stream,  we  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  hill  on  the  other  side, 
which  we  performed  leisurely  and  cautiously, 
the  road  not  being  of  the  best.  Here  we  had 
an  opportunity  for  some  conversation. 

"You  seem  to  have  resigned  yourself  com- 
pletely to  a  jungle  life,"  said  T,  "  and  to  have 
determined  to  make  yourself  content  with  it." 

"  There  is  much  in  it,"  she  replied,  "  that  I 
like  exceedingly.     I  was  always   passionately 

VOL.   I.  I 


170  THE   COOLIES. 

fond  of  tlie  country  and  of  a  country  life,  and 
the  beauty  of  nature  here  charms  me — the 
want  of  society  is  not  very  distressing,  hut  I 
should  he  happier  if  the  natives  were  more 
imj)rovahle — they  look  upon  me  with  suspicion, 
and  do  not  seem  capable  of  believing  that  I 
can  wish  to  assist  them  from  a  benevolent 
motive.  There  is  a  httle  village  at  the  other 
side  of  this  liiU  to  wliich  I  have  frequently 
ridden,  in  the  hope  of  being  of  service  to  some 
of  its  inhabitants,  but  there  is  only  one  woman 
in  it  that  seems  at  aU  disposed  to  be  grateful, 
or  even  to  like  my  approach,  and  she,  poor 
thing,  finds  a  reHef  in  my  visits  only  probably 
because  she  is  miserable." 

"  The  Kandians  are  naturally  shy,  I  fancy," 
was  my  reply,  ^"presenting,  in  this  respect,  a 
striking  contrast  with  the  frank  confidence  of 
the  coolies  from  Malabar." 

"  I  do  not  know  much  of  these  coolies,"  said 
she,  "  being  totally  ignorant  of  theu'  language, 
but  what  little  I  do  know  of  them  is  far  from 
favom'ablc.  They  seem  deceitful,  mercenary, 
and  lost  to  all  sense  of  decency  and  propriety." 

"  If  you  judge  Asiatics  by  your  Enghsh 
standard,  you  will  certainly  find  them  wanting 
sadly,"  I  remarked,  smiling.     "  You  must  re- 


THE   KANDIAN  CHARACTEE.  171 

member  these  are  the  poorest  and  least  civihzed 
of  their  class,  who  travel  himdreds  of  miles  to 
work  for  a  season  on  our  plantations,  starving 
themselves  the  while,  in  order  to  return  with 
their  paltry  savings  (to  them,  valuable  hoards) 
to  their  country  and  families.  This  alone  is, 
in  my  mind,  a  redeeming  characteristic — they 
slave  here,  not  so  much  for  present,  as  for 
future,  advantage,  and  very  often,  to  share 
their  little  pittance  ultimately  with  starving 
relations  at  home.  Such  is  the  result  of  a 
superabundance  of  population,  the  greatest 
evil,  I  am  beginning  to  think,  whatever  po- 
litical economists  may  say  to  the  contrary,  that 
can  afflict  a  nation." 

"  There  is  doubtless  much  reason  in  what 
you  say  in  their  favour,"  she  replied,  after  a 
pause,  "  but  with  all  the  shyness  of  the  Kan- 
dians,  I  prefer  them." 

"  The  hardships  these  Malabar  cooHes  un- 
dergo, in  travelHng  on  foot  through  the  jungles 
of  southern  India  and  those  of  northern  Ceylon, 
are  but  Httle  known,"  I  added.  "  They  must 
arrive,  within  a  certain  limited  period,  in  the 
plantation  district,  for  their  supply  of  food  is 
small,  or  otherwise  they  would  perish  in  the 
forests — hence   accidents   of    a    comparatively 


17.2  DANGERS  OF  TRAVELLIXG 

trivial  kind  arc  often  death  to  them,  for  their 
comrades  cannot  wait ;  the  race  is  for  life,  and 
they  must  sacrifice  one,  or  run  the  risk  of 
being  all  destroyed.  Hence  the  disabled 
member  of  the  gang  is  necessarily  abandoned, 
and  deep  in  the  recesses  of  the  forests,  amid 
mid  beasts  and  serpents,  the  poor  sufferers  are 
left  with  a  handful  of  rice  and  a  shell  of  water 
to  meet  death,  all  alone  under  the  most  hor- 
rible of  all  possible  forms.  Can  any  picture 
that  the  most  highly-coloured  romance  ever 
presented,  be  more  terrible?  The  outcast  is 
stretched  perhaps  beneath  a  tree  by  the  side 
of  the  seldom -trodden  path  in  that  cheerless 
waste — rich  vegetation  in  ample  profusion  all 
around  him,  but  no  hope !  He  begs  and  in- 
treats,  but  the  other  members  of  his  gang  are 
inexoralile.  It  is  his  life  or  theirs !  The}"- 
have  carried  him  ten  or  twenty  miles  abeady, 
the}^  can  do  no  more — he  seems  to  become 
worse  instead  of  better,  and  now  lying  help- 
lessly at  the  foot  of  that  tree,  he  sees  them 
leave  the  little  bowl  of  rice,  the  little  shell  of 
water,  by  his  side.  His  outstretched  hands, 
his  agonizing  wailings  are  disregarded ;  he 
sees  them  making  their  way,  one  by  one, 
through  the  thick  vegetation  in  front,  the  long 


THROUGH  THE   JUNGLE.  173 

line  ever  pressing  onwards  —  hope  before, 
misery,  despair,  and  death,  behind.  At  length 
they  are  all  gone,  and  in  the  heaven  or  on  the 
earth,  there  seems  for  him  no  comfort,  no  ray 
of  hght.  Think  of  night  gradually  approaching 
under  such  circumstances — another  human 
being  will  probably  not  approach  the  spot  for 
days  or  weeks,  and  he  knows  that  well.  Fancy 
the  shmy  snake  or  wilder  leopard  steahng  to- 
wards him,  glaring  on  him,  whilst  he  sees  the 
fiery  eyes  or  the  forked  tongue  gradually  ap- 
proaching, without  a  chance  of  avoiding  the 
intended  slaughter." 

"  0,  it  is  too  horrible  to  think  of,"  exclaimed 
my  fair  companion,  shuddering,  "  and  yet  I 
know  that  not  a  season  approaches  without 
some  such  scenes  occurring  in  the  recesses  of 
the  jungle." 

"Some  such,"  I  repeated,  "many  such. 
Have  you  ever  questioned  your  canganies 
about  them  ?" 

"  Never,"  said  she,  "  nor  is  it  a  pleasant  task 
to  probe  the  recesses  of  human  misery.  But 
now  that  you  have  brought  the  matter  so 
vividly  before  me,  I  shall  look  upon  them  more 
pitifully  than  I  have  done." 

"  Such  a  scene  only  described  to  you,  believe 


174  A    GRATEFUL   NATIVE. 

me,  Mrs,  Hofer,"  I  replied,  "  makes  you  feel 
more  deeply  than  its  enactment  before  their 
eyes,  affects  them.  The  most  feeling  of  God's 
creatures  on  earth,  women,  are  almost  daily 
mtnesses  to  such  scenes,  and  they  survive 
them;  nay,  not  merely  survive  them,  but  are 
as  merry  as  though  they  had  been  witnesses  of 
joy  all  their  lives,  a  week  after." 

"  A  fact  which  certainly  does  not  say  much 
for  then'  '  feeling,'  "  she  rephed. 

"  Nay,  we  must  not  judge  them  by  too  high 
a  standard,"  I  urged.  "  It  is  a  mercy  to  these 
women  that  their  feelings  are  not  acute,  in  our 
acceptation  of  the  word,  for  acute  they  certainly 
are,  even  amongst  them,  when  compared  with 
those  of  the  men." 

"  All  which,  in  my  mind,  amounts  to  this," 
she  answered,  "  that  the  women  are  unfeeling 
enough,  the  men  absolute  brutes." 

I  did  not  argue  the  point  further,  for  the 
road  here  improved,  and  we  cantered  on. 

Arrived  at  the  little  village  Mrs.  Hofer  had 
spoken  of,  the  poor  woman  whose  gratitude  had 
been  excited  by  her  kindness,  came  forth  from 
her  cottage  to  bless  and  praise  her  in  the  most 
glowing  terms.  A  few  inquiiies  respecting  the 
prospects  of  the  little  piece  of  land  her  son  and 


PICTURESQUE   WATERFALL.  175 

she  were  now  cultivating,  enabled  so  to  do  by 
my  companion's  liberality,  were  asked  and 
answered,  and  we  proceeded  on  our  ride  to  a 
waterfall  in  tbe  neighbourhood,  a  favourite  re- 
sort of  the  excursionists  from  Lanka.  It  was  a 
beautifully-secluded  spot — one  of  those  natural 
scenes  of  surpassing  loveliness  with  which  the 
magnificent  island  abounds.  Two  vast  rocks, 
with  almost  perpendicular  faces,  covered  with 
moss,  or  something  resembling  it,  met  at  right 
angles,  and  stretched  far  apart  on  either  side  at 
their  extremities.  The  stream,  a  tributary  of 
the  Paloya,  darted  from  the  corner  at  the  sum- 
mit, in  one  mibroken  sheet,  into  an  abyss  below, 
a  depth  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet,  whilst  a  grassy 
knoU,  covering  a  rocky  base,  du-ectly  in  front, 
afforded  an  excellent  platform  for  witnessing  it. 
This  grassy  knoll  was  bordered  by  bushes  which 
fringed  the  base  of  the  huge  masses  of  rock  on 
either  side,  and  behind  it  was  bounded  by  a 
tliick  forest ;  altogether,  a  spot  more  completely 
sheltered  from  the  rays  of  the  sun,  or  affording 
a  more  beautiful  view,  it  would  not  be  easy  to 
discover  anywhere.  It  owed  its  suitabihty  for 
a  pic-nic  party  partly  to  nature,  and  partly  to 
Mrs.  Hofer's  judicious  improvements — improve- 
ments which  consisted  alone  in  repressing  the 


176  PIC-NIC    PARTY. 

luxuriant  vegetation,  which,  if  allowed,  would 
have  encroached  again,  as  it  had  done  before, 
upon  the  table-like  plot  of  grass  so  admirably 
adapted  for  accommodating  a  party. 

Servants,  who  had  arrived  before  us,  by  a 
shorter  path  thi'ough  the  hiUs,  were  here  in 
attendance  to  take  our  horses,  and  we  found  a 
carpet  spread  upon  the  turf,  ready  for  our  re- 
ception, with  an  inviting-looking  basket  in  its 
midst.  Seating  ourselves  in  oriental  fashion 
(after  the  manner  of  tailors,  as  a  European 
would  say),  sans  ceremonie,  we  dived  into  the 
recesses  of  the  aforesaid  basket,  in  which  we 
found  some  sandwiches,  a  cold  fowl,  and — 
greatest  luxury  of  all,  after  our  fatiguing  ride  of 
an  hour  and  a-half — some  bottles  of  deliciously 
cool  beer.  I  fear  when  the  genuine  Cockney 
so  carelessly  reads  the  words,  "  Allsopp's  Pale 
Ale,"  or  "  Bass's  India  Ale,"  in  going  through 
the  streets  of  London,  he  seldom  realises  to 
himself  the  delight  A\dth  which  the  weary 
traveller  in  India  or  Ceylon  sees  these  words 
on  the  outside  of  a  full  bottle — I  say  a  full 
bottle,  for  your  planter  has  as  little  affection 
for  an  empty  one  as  Falstaff  had  for  an  "  unfilled 
can  " — champaign  is  an  excellent  drink,  if  you 
don't   anticipate  a   dinner  after  it,  but  for  a 


1 


i 


PIC-NIC   PARTY.  177 

breakfast  after  a  hard  ride,  or  a  lunclieon  in  the 
jungle,  there  is  nothing  equal  to  the  sparkling 
glass  of  cool  Bass  or  AUsopp.  The  frame  is, 
perhaps,  on  fire,  this  is  the  condiment  to  extin- 
guish the  flames ;  exhausted  with  physical  or 
mental  fatigue,  with  a  thermometer  ranging 
between  80°  and  90°,  nothing  half  so  gently- 
inspiriting  as  the  white-capped  draught  of  pale 
India  ale  ;  but  then  it  must  be  of  the  right  de- 
scription, not  opened  a  month  too  early  or  too 
late — a  gentle  simmer  of  white  foam  on  the  top, 
not  breaking  out  into  a  deluge  of  froth,  which 
proves  it  over-ripe,  nor  havmg  to  be  coaxed 
into  a  little  foam,  which  proves  it  too  fiat. 
They  say  George  the  Fourth  could  take  a 
longer  time  to  drink  a  glass  of  generous  wine 
than  any  other  man,  thereby  enjoying  it  to  the 
utmost ;  but  such  Epicurism  will  not  do  with 
our  genuine  pale  India ;  it  must  be  quaffed,  not 
hurriedly,  but  without  pause — be  the  quantity 
large  or  small,  it  should  not  remain  in  the  glass 
a  minute. 

"  This  jungle-life  has  a  strange  tendency  to 
develope  Epicureanism  in  the  male  portion  of 
humanity,"  observed  Mrs.  Hofer,  as  I  made 
some  of  these  remarks  to  her,  on  her  putting 
down  her  glass  of  ale,  half-finished  only. 

I  8 


178  PIC-NIC   PARTY. 

•'  If  Epicureanism  mean  the  making  the  best 
of  the  circumstances  in  wliich  we  are  placed, 
yoiu'  remark  is  a  very  just  one,"  I  answered ; 
"  there  is  so  little  of  accustomed  comfort  and 
luxury  here — I  mean  that  comfort  and  luxury 
to  which  every  Englishman  above  actual  want 
is  used — that  it  is  incumbent  on  us  to  make 
the  most  of  the  cu'cumstances  in  which  we  are 
placed,  and  of  the  few  enjoyments  left." 

"You  remind  me  of  Hudibras,"  answered 
my  companion. 

*'  He  was  in  logic  a  great  critic, 
Profoundly  skill'd  in  analytic  ; 
He  could  distinguish  and  divide 
A  hair  'twixt  south  and  south-west  side." 

"  Nor  was  he  unhke  you  in  being  able  to  give 
reasons  for  everything, 

"  For  when  he  happened  to  break  off, 
In  th'  middle  of  his  speech,  or  cough, 
H'  had  hard  words  ready  to  show  why, 
And  tell  what  rules  he  did  it  by." 

"  Laugh  at  me  if  you  will,"  was  my  reply, 
"  but  to  me  the  making  the  most  of  the  cir- 
cumstances in  which  we  are  placed  appears  the 
truest  philosophy." 

"As  an  abstract  truth  notliing  can  be  more 
certain,"  quickly  rejoined  my  fair  antagonist, 


J 


ALARM  FROM  A   SNAKE,  179 

"  but  wlien  your  dictum  is  applied  to  the  proper 
method  of  quaffing  glasses  of  ale,  methinks  it 
has  little  to  do  with  philosophy." 

"  Here  comes  Hofer,"  said  I,  "  we  will  refer 
the  point  to  him." 

Hofer  had  scarcely  taken  his  place  beside  us, 
and  given  us  the  best  possible  illustration  of 
how  glasses  of  ale  should  be  drunk,  when  a 
servant,  who  had  been  in  attendance  at  a  little 
distance,  came  towards  us  with  the  starthng 
intelligence  that  a  snake  at  that  moment  was 
making  its  way  into  the  folds  of  Mrs.  Hofer 's 
riding-habit.  He  was  a  judicious  fellow,  that 
servant,  cool  and  cautious,  prefacing  his  infor- 
mation with  the  remark  that  he  was  not  him- 
self aware  whether  it  was  a  venomous  one  or 
not,  but  that  if  it  was,  our  only  chance  of  safety 
lay  in  not  disturbing  it  at  that  moment !  It 
was  a  frightful  state  of  things — the  joy  and 
hilarity  which  had  beamed  on  our  countenances 
a  moment  before,  were  changed,  as  by  the  wand 
of  a  magician,  into  anxiety  and  terror.  Mrs. 
Hofer  tm-ned  deadly  pale,  but  maintained  her 
position  heroically,  feeling  or  fancying  she  felt 
— at  that  moment  the  same  thing — the  gliding 
of  the  slimy  reptile  over  the  folds  of  her  dress, 
fortunately  voluminous  and  thick.     But  what 


ISO  ALLURING   THE    SNAKE 

was  to  be  done?  To  attack  it  as  it  lay,  was 
fraught  with  the  most  imminent  danger  to  the 
lady,  whose  marble-like  featui'es  sufficiently  at- 
tested the  agony  she  endured. 

''  I  have  sent  one  of  the  grooms  for  a  httle 
milk  to  a  cottage  not  far  off,  where  they  keep 
goats,"  coolly  observed  the  servant,  "  the  snake 
will  come  out  to  the  milk,  and,  as  long  as  it  is 
undisturbed,  there  is  nothing  to  fear,  it  will 
bite  no  one."  I  know  not  at  this  moment 
which  of  us  endured  the  most  suffering  for 
those  few  brief  minutes.  The  milk  came  in  an 
open  saucer-like  vessel,  and,  advancing  as  near 
as  he  considered  judicious,  the  servant,  dehbe- 
rately,  as  if  about  to  feed  a  favourite  kitten, 
put  down  the  bait  which  was  to  lure  the  enemy 
to  its  destruction,  whilst  he  departed  into  the 
forest  for  a  bamboo.  Om'  riding  whips  were 
near  us,  and  these  Hofer  and  I  grasped  ^vith 
grim  resolution.  For  another  minute  all  was 
silence  and  anxious  expectation.  At  length, 
as  Hofer  subsequently  informed  me,  for  sitting 
nearly  opposite  as  I  was  to  the  lady,  I  could 
not  see  it — at  length  tlie  head  of  the  snake,  its 
forked  tongue  playing  over  its  jaws,  emerged 
from  the  folds  of  the  riding-liabit,  and  gradually 
approached  the  milk,  gradually  but  too  slowly. 


FROM   ITS   POSITION.  181 

for  Mrs.  Hofer  could  endure  no  more.  Seeing 
by  her  liusband's  face  that  the  crisis  had 
arrived,  her  nerves  failed  at  the  moment,  and, 
with  a  loud  shriek,  she  threw  herself  forward. 
I  caught  her  in  my  arms,  and  she  almost  im- 
mediately became  insensible,  whilst  the  snake 
retreating  into  the  folds  of  the  dress,  which 
was  not  yet  sufficiently  extended  to  discover 
the  disgusting  animal  completely,  remained 
motionless. 

One  would  scarcely  believe  it,  but  as  long 
as  the  reptile  remained  quiet,  I  cared  not  at 
that  moment  how  long  it  might  so  continue. 
There  was  an  enjoyment  in  feeling  that  lovely 
head  upon  my  shoulder,  the  mouth  almost 
touching  my  cheek,  and  in  grasping  that  ex- 
quisite form  round  the  waist,  awkward  though 
our  attitude,  half-standing,  half-kneeling,  was, 
that  rendered  me  obhvious,  for  the  time 
being,  of  the  danger,  and  whilst  Hofer  and 
servants  were  engaged  with  the  snake  in  the 
tail  of  the  dress,  I  was  occupied  solely  with 
the  statue-like  head.  I  poured  out  a  glass 
of  brandy,  and  tried  to  get  her  to  swallow 
a  mouthful,  and  I  bathed  her  temples  with 
the  same  hquid  immediately  after.  At  length 
— I  cannot  tell  how  long  afterwards,  her  eyes 


182  THE   SNAKE   DESTROYED. 

gradually,    languisliingly,    opened   and  looked 
up  at  me. 

No  remedy  could  more  effectually  have  roused 
lier,  tlian  the  position  in  which  she  found  her- 
self on  recovering — the  eyes,  half-shut  hefore, 
opened  at  once,  a  faint  frown  contracting  the 
brow — the  head  was  raised,  and  whispering,  in 
a  terrified  way,  "  the  snake,"  she  stood  up,  as 
well  as  the  disarranged  habit  would  permit. 
The  snake  thought  I,  ay  truly,  the  snake! 
what  of  it  ?  Why  the  poor  animal  was  on  the 
grass,  at  no  great  distance,  and  they  were  all 
belabouring  it  vigorously — tlie  servants  with 
bamboos,  Hofer  with  his  riding  whip.  It  had 
been  dead  long  ago  doubtless.  I  felt  certain  of 
that  fact,  and  laughed  at  them  heartily. 

"  And  after  all,"  said  I,  approacliing  them, 
"  it's  perfectly  harmless." 

"  Is  it  ?"  said  Hofer,  turning  quickly  round, 
his  whole  face,  grim  and  determined  before, 
relaxing  at  once  into  a  smile — "  Is  it  ?" 

"  Of  course  it  is,"  said  I,  taking  a  hold  of 
the  head  (for  I  felt  morally  certain  it  could  not 
have  endured  one-half  that  it  had  endured  and 
retain  a  spark  of  life) ;  "of  course  it  is.  You 
see  there  are  no  fangs  here,"  and  I  boldly 
opened  the  mouth.     Whether  it  was  a  venom- 


A   PLEASANT  EVENING'.  183 

ous  snake  or  not,  I  was  and  am  profoundly 
ignorant,  but  not  a  tenth  of  the  snakes  in  the 
world  are  venomous,  they  say ;  so  the  proba- 
bility is  I  was  right.  The  natives  said  nothing. 
They  are  wonderfully  judicious  people.  Hofer 
and  I  laughed  long  and  heartily  at  the  trans- 
action, and  even  the  lady  herself,  after  sipping 
a  little  brandy  and  water,  condescended  to 
smile ;  so  that  we  rode  back  in  the  best 
possible  spirits.  I  thought  she  rather  avoided 
my  eyes  during  the  rest  of  the  day,  but  her 
manner  was  as  kind  as  ever;  so  I  suppose  it 
was  all  fancy  on  my  part.  One  is  so  fond  of 
flattering  oneself ! 

We  spent  a  wonderfully  pleasant  evening 
after  this  little  adventure;  the  incident  it- 
self, indeed,  lending  a  zest  to  our  enjoyment, 
and  affording  an  ample  theme  for  conver- 
sation. The  waterfall  lost,  from  that  day, 
however,  a  kind  patron  in  our  hostess,  but  such 
a  result  was  natm^al,  and  could  not  possibly  be 
averted. 

The  party  which  assembled  at  Hofer's  to 
dinner  consisted  of  the  magistrate  of  Eumina- 
caddee  and  his  wife,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mouat  by 
name,  Captain  Lister  of  the  Ceylon  Eifles, 
and  Mr.  Fowler  a  coffee-planter  of  the  vicinity. 
How  instinctive  are  not  our  fu'st  likings  and 


1S4  A   CEYLOX   MAGISTRATE 

dislikings  of  strangers  !     I  had  met  Mr.  Mouat 
on  joining  the  estate  ;  he  had  visited  me  two 
or  three   times    since,   proved  himself  an  ad- 
mirable companion,   full  of  hfe  and  anecdote 
and  humour,  and  yet  I  felt  an    antipathy  to 
liim.     He  was  a  small  muscular  man,  with  an 
intelligent  face,  surmounted  by  an  ample  fore- 
head, shaded  on  either  side  by  straight  black 
hair.     Detracting  from  these  advantages,  how- 
ever,   and    neutralizing   their    effect    on    the 
observer's   mind,    were    two    cold,    lack-lusire 
eyes,     ever     staring,    or     if    twinkling,    the 
twinkle  seemed  one  of  malice  rather  than  of 
benevolence    or    humour.      Not   his   pleasant 
manner,    nor   his   racy  stories,   nor  his   keen 
enjoyment  of  a  pleasant  party,  could  remove 
the  impression  which  his  eyes  first  made  upon 
my  mind  ;  and  I  found  in  the  course  of  conver- 
sation  with   mine   hostess  before  his   arrival, 
that  Mrs.   Hofer's  impression  was  similar  to 
my  own.     He  had  evidently  observed  this,  and 
took  the  most  assiduous  pains  to  remove  that 
impression,  at  all  events  from  the  mind  of  our 
fah    hostess,    and   doubtless    had   taken   such 
pains  before.     Mrs.  Mouat,  his  wife,  was  a  fat 
pui'sy  little   body,    whose    impression  seemed 
constantly  to  be  that  she  was  always  in  some- 
body's way.     She  would  look  round  the  room, 


AND   HIS   WIFE. 


185 


as  if  to  find  some  hole  or  corner  where  she 
would  certainly  not  incommode  any  one.  With 
an  overwhelming  sense  of  her  own  nonentity, 
as  far  as  importance  went,  she  amused,  or 
vexed,  or  distressed  those  around  her,  according 
to  their  temper  and  disposition.  Twitching 
her  chair  the  half-quarter  of  an  inch  to  one 
side,  she  hoped  she  was  not  incommoding  you. 
You  assured  her  not  in  the  least — quite  the 
contrary,  and  would  fancy  it  was  all  over ;  but, 
no !  a  minute  after  she  begs  you  will  forgive 
her  for  shaking  the  table,  or  spilling  the  salt, 
or  scattering  the  pepper  about,  or  some  other 
delinquency  which  you  would  never  have 
noticed  had  not  she  herself  called  your  atten- 
tion to  it.  Her  conversation  consisted  prin- 
cipally of  yes  ! — no  ! — ah  ! — indeed  ! — very  ! 
and  such  like  monosyllables,  expressive  of  any- 
thing or  nothing  at  will.  Nor  was  she  par- 
ticular as  to  the  way  in  which  these  interesting 
monosyllables  were  applied.  After  a  pleasant 
narration  that  would  make  Saturn  himself,  the 
gloomiest  of  men  and  gods,  break  forth  into  a 
smile,  she  would  merely  salute  you  with  an 
unmeaning  and  insipid  "indeed!"  casting  a 
furtive  glance  under  the  sideboard  opposite,  at 
the  same  time,  as  if  the  reflection  crossed  her 


186  AN  ELEPHANT  HUNTEK. 

mind  at  the  instant  that,  safely  ensconced 
under  that,  she  woiikl  he  in  nohody's  way.  I 
sometimes  felt  tempted  to  assure  her  that  it 
would  he  well  to  try  some  of  these  holes  and 
corners,  in  order  to  relieve  her  mind ;  hut  I 
refrained.  She  had  three  children,  and  how 
she  ever  contrived  to  get  through  life  with 
them  I  never  could  discover,  for  she  was 
precisely  the  same  at  home  as  ahroad,  at  least 
on  two  or  three  occasions  that  I  happened  to 
call.  Seated  uneasily  on  the  corner  of  an 
ottoman  or  the  edge  of  a  chau',  she  stroked 
her  dear  hoy's  head,  and  simpered  out,  yes  ! — 
no! — ah! — indeed! — very!  just  as  usual, 
until  I  felt  strongly  tempted  to  smash  the 
pier-glass  with  a  chair,  to  see  if  I  could  not  get 
anything  else  out  of  her. 

Captain  Lister  was  an  excellent  elephant- 
hunter — one  of  those  fine  sportsmen  with  whom 
Ceylon  abounds.  And  yet  to  look  at  him  one 
would  not  fancy  he  was  a  likely  person  for  such 
sport.  TaU  and  corpulent,  he  was  the  oihest 
of  living  men.  His  hair,  which  had  a  slight 
tinge  of  yeUow  in  it,  otherwise  one  would  call 
it  white,  was  scanty,  whilst  his  whiskers  of  the 
same  hue,  were  abundant.  Constantly  mopping 
his  forehead  with  his  handkercliief,  he  seemed 


.  AN  ELEPHANT   HUNTER.  187 

to  have  worn  tlie  hair  away  above  it,  and  hence 
its  great  height.  He  was  fond  of  a  good 
dinner;  and  the  time  which  he  could  spare 
from  mihtary  duties  and  elephant  shooting  (a 
sport,  of  which  his  success  in  it  probably  made 
him  inordinately  fond)  was  devoted,  according 
to  his  friend  Mouat,  to  experimentahzing  in 
sauces.  Although  somewhat  heavy,  Lister  was 
a  decidedly  good  fellow,  with  an  amazing  fund 
of  anecdote  and  story,  chiefly  relatmg  to  his 
favoui'ite  pursuit  and  his  own  exploits  in  it ; 
not  that  I  would  insinuate  that  he  was  vain  or 
ostentatious — ^quite  the  reverse — no  one  who 
who  had  ever  looked  upon  his  glowing,  mild, 
and  benevolent  countenance  could  fancy  so  for 
a  moment.  Circumstances  threw  him  and 
Mouat  much  together,  on  their  first  arrival  in 
the  island,  and  they  maintained  a  friendly  in- 
tercom'se  up  to  this  time,  although  meeting  but 
seldom.  Lister,  I  suppose,  was  not  always  so 
corpulent  as  at  the  time  of  which  I  write,  and 
having  been  successful  in  early  hfe  as  a  mighty 
hunter,  had  been  thus  led  on  to  consider  the 
sport  an  essential  employment  for  him-=— the 
slaughtering  of  elephants  in  fact,  one  of  those 
things  he  was  sent  into  the  world  to  do,  and 
which  must  be  done. 


iS8  COXVERSATIOX   OX   NATIVE 

Our  conversation  at  dinner  turned  chiefly 
upon  snakes  in  general,  and  tlie  snake  in  par- 
ticular, on  which  subject  Lister  and  Mouat 
both  gave  us  much  information,  long  since  for- 
gotten. I  have  a  distinct  recollection,  however, 
of  having  been  comphmented  on  the  discovery 
that  our  adversary  of  the  morning  was  a  harm- 
less one;  and  of  having  borne  my  budding 
honours  with  all  possible  modesty.  The  con- 
versation subsequently  turned,  how  I  know  not, 
upon  native  duplicity  v.  native  honesty ;  Hofer 
maintaining  that  the  Kandians  were  not  a  whit 
worse  than  other  people  in  similar  positions 
elsewhere. 

"  I  quite  agree  with  you,"  said  the  magis- 
trate ;  "  duphcity  is  the  rule  all  over  the  world, 
honesty  the  exception." 

"  I  should  be  very  sorry  to  adopt  j^our 
estimate  of  humanity,  Mr.  Mouat,"  said  Mrs. 
Hofer,  ever  ready  to  do  battle  for  the  noble, 
the  virtuous,  and  the  true. 

"  If  you  judge  mankind  by  yourself,  you  will 
certainly  think  honesty  the  invariable  rule,  and 
duplicity  an  impossibility,"  answered  he ;  "  but 
alas !  it  is  a  truth,  that  men  in  my  position 
particularly,  and  all  men,  I  fancy,  in  every 
position,  who  have   seen  mucli  of  Kfe,  must 


DUPLICITY   OE   HONESTY.  189 

sooner  or  later  discover,  that  men,  when  they 
are  honest,  are  so  from  habit,  interest,  or  fear, 
not  from  principle — that  falsehood  and  dis- 
honesty are  natural  to  the  nine  hundred  and 
ninety-nine ;  truth  and  honesty  to  the  thou- 
sandth only." 

"  I  cannot,  in  your  presence,"  said  she, 
"  speak  of  my  experience  in  Ceylon  ;  but  during 
the  entfre  course  of  my  life  in  England  I  was 
brought  much  into  connexion  with  the  country 
people,  in  Bedfordshire,  and  truth  and  honesty, 
I  can  truly  assert,  amongst  them  at  least,  are 
a  hundred-fold  more  common  than  you  would 
lead  us  to  suppose.  Nay,  truth  and  honesty 
are,  amongst  them,  the  rule,  whatever  you  may 
fancy  to  the  contrary." 

"  My  experience,"  was  his  reply,  "  has  lain 
principally  with  the  town-people  and  the  natives 
of  Ceylon,  and  that  may  perhaps  be  the  cause 
of  our  difference." 

"  I  do  not  adopt  Mr.  Mouat's  opinion  in  its 
mdest  acceptation ;  but  you  must  remember, 
Emma,"  said  Hofer,  "  that  you  saw  the  country 
people  of  Bedfordshire  under  the  most  favour- 
able circumstances.  Your  family  was  known 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  had  been  stationary 
there  a  long  time — the  poor  around  were  grate- 


190  COISrVERSATION  ON  NATIVE 

fill  for  assistance  received  from  it,  and  the 
worst  features  of  their  characters  would  be 
hidden  from  the  view  of  a  young  lady  with 
some  pretensions  to  refinement." 

"  Under  what  circumstances  then,  would  yon 
judge  of  mankind  ?"  boldly  argued  the  fair  en- 
thusiast ;  "  if  those  who  have  lived  in  the 
midst  of  a  certain  population,  constantly  see- 
ing, and  being  seen  by,  them,  are  not  to  judge 
of  the  virtue  or  vice  they  daily  exhibit,  who 
shall  do  so?  You  object,  and  probably  Mr. 
Mouat  also  objects,  to  my  experience,  but  I 
have  a  more  weighty  objection  to  bring  against 
his — the  experience  of  a  magistrate  lies  amongst 
the  worst,  not  amongst  the  best,  of  mankind, 
no,  nor  even  amongst  the  average,  and  if  such 
experience  is  to  be  accounted  that  most  fit  for 
forming  the  foundation  of  a  judgment,  the 
dweller  in  a  hospital  might  be  excused  for  con- 
sidering all  mankind  diseased.  Do  you  not 
agree  with  me,  Mrs.  Mouat  ?" 

"  Yes,"  said  that  interesting  lady,  casting 
her  eyes  fiirtively  behind  the  door. 

Both  the  gentlemen  were  silent. 

"  In  my  opinion,"  said  Fowler,  "  your  expe- 
rience is  the  most  valuable  of  the  three,  Mrs. 
Hofer,  for,  as  you  say,  Mr.  Mouat  sees  more 


DUPLICITY   OR  HONESTY.  191 

of  tlie  knavery  than  of  the  excellence  of  man, 
and  my  friend  Hofer  has  spent  his  life  in  mov- 
ing so  rapidly  from  place  to  place,  and  country 
to  country,  that  he  cannot  liave  obtained  that 
intimate  acquaintance  with  any  one  district 
or  population,  necessary  to  form  an  opinion  of 
this  kind.  Those  who  remain  long  in  one 
locality  alone,  mingling  much  amongst  the 
various  classes  of  people  resident  there,  appear 
to  me  to  be  the  only  people  capable  of  forming, 
or  likely  to  form,  a  correct  estimate." 

"  There  is,  doubtless,  much  truth  in  your 
observation,  so  far  as  I  am  concerned,"  said 
the  magistrate ;  "  but  it  must  also  be  re- 
membered that  much,  very  much  depends 
upon  the  point  of  view  from  which  we  regard 
the  world.  If  influenced,  like  our  hostess,  by 
benevolence  and  philanthropy  alone,  we  shall 
shut  our  eyes  to  the  vices,  and  open  them  to 
the  virtues,  of  those  aromid  us." 

"  Precisely  in  the  same  way,"  said  Captain 
Lister,  "  as  a  planter  judges  a  horse — that  is, 
he  has  a  point  of  view,  as  Mouat  calls  it,  of  his 
own ;  he  doesn't  care  for  points  or  pedigree,  all 
he  wants  is  go — go  of  all  kinds,  up  hiUs  and 
down  hills,  and  over  rocks  and  through  marshes, 
without  any  reference  to  paces  or  appearance." 


192         CONTRASTED  CHARACTERS. 

"  Undoubtedly,"  said  Mrs.  Hofer,  always 
strenuous  and  earnest  in  upholding  her  convic- 
tions— "  Undoubtedly,  the  aspect  of  anything 
is  modified  by  the  subjective  bias  and  idiosyn- 
crasy, the  strength  and  cultivation  of  the 
mind  that  considers  it,  as  well  as  by  the  cir- 
cumstances in  which  the  individual  is  placed, 
hence  the  impossibility  of  making  all,  or  even 
a  majority  of,  mankind  think  alike  on  any  one 
subject ;  but  if  we  find  around  us  in  the  world, 
self-denial  and  benevolence,  a  firm  adherence  to 
\'irtue  and  religion,  honour  and  integrity,  even 
under  the  most  unfavourable  cu-cumstances, 
are  we  not  bound  to  raise  our  voices  against 
the  monstrous  doctrine,  that  all  virtue  is  hy- 
pocrisy, all  excellence  selfisliness,  all  honesty 
disguised  interest !" 

"  I  probably  expressed  myself  too  unguard- 
edly," said  the  magistrate,  his  cold,  inanimate 
eyes  hghting  up  for  an  instant,  as  he  looked  on 
the  warm  and  animated  face  of  our  chivahous 
hostess,  — "  I  certainly  did  not  mean  to  go  so 
far  in  my  assertions.  I  meant  merely  that  it 
appeared  to  me  that  vice  was  more  common 
than  virtue;  but  even  in  that  I  may  be  mis- 
taken— I  should  not  at  all  wonder  if  I  were." 

Tliis  conversation,  trivial  as  it  may  be  con- 


ASTKOLOGY.  193 

sidered,  left  a  deep  impression  upon  my  mind  ^ 
I  could  not  lielp  contrasting  the  honest,  hearty, 
open  convictions,  openly  expressed,  of  the  lady, 
with  the  half-implied,  half-asserted  hesitations 
and  retractations  of  the  worthy  magistrate — 
the  one  symbolic  of  the  daring  confidence  of 
youtliful  ardom-  in  the  pursuit  of  the  noble 
and  the  true ;  the  other  typical  of  the  doubt, 
hesitation,  uncertainty,  and  craft,  which  an 
extended  acquaintance  with  mankind  but  too 
often  fosters  in  the  minds  of  the  u'resolute  or 
the  vicious. 

"  AVliat  of  astrology?"  I  asked  of  Mrs. 
Hofer,  before  she  and  her  automaton-like  guest 
left  the  table — "  You  talked  at  Ambepusse  of 
studying  it  when  you  got  into  the  jungle." 

"  I  have  begun  the  study,"  she  replied, 
"  and  Hke  it  well.  An  old  priest  from  the 
wihare  at  MirrepoUa,  comes  to  me  thrice  a- 
week,  and  from  him  I  get  lessons  in  Singhalese 
and  in  astrology." 

"  You  don't  mean  to  say  you  beheve  in 
astrology?"  asked  Lister,  bluntly. 

"  No,"  she  replied — "  I  do  not  yet  know 
enough  of  it  to  beheve  or  disbelieve  it,  but  my 
impression  is,  that  there  must  be  more  in  a 
science,  once  so  universally  admitted  as  truth, 

VOL.  I.  K 


194  ASTROLOGY. 

than  men  now-a-days  are  willing  to  acknow- 
ledge." 

"  That  there  is  some  great  or  leading  truth 
at  the  bottom  which  the  mystifications  of  ages 
have  but  enveloped  in  a  mass  of  absurdity  and 
no-meaning  verbiage,  appears  probable  enough," 
said  Mouat. 

"  If  you  can  arrive  at  that  truth,"  said 
Hofer,  "  you  may  be  recompensed  for  the 
trouble  and  toil  of  the  investigation,  but  my 
impression  is,  that  you  will  indignantly  thrust 
the  whole  study  from  you  some  day  soon,  as  a 
vast  lie." 

"  I  do  not  think  so,"  she  rephed,  and  then 
tm-ning  to  Mrs.  Mouat,  she  added — "  your 
husband  and  I,  I  am  happy  to  discover,  are 
Hkely  to  find  some  points  of  agreement  in  our 
various  opinions." 

"  Very,"  rephed  the  fat  httle  lady,  for  she 
had  just  emerged  from  a  long-protracted  yawn, 
and  was  now  feeling  her  jaws  perhaps  to  make 
sure  that  there  was  no  dislocation — the  proba- 
bihty  was,  therefore,  that  she  had  not  heard 
the  observation  addressed  to  her,  but  had  only 
a  vague  idea  that  a  word  was  required,  and 
thought  "  very"  the  safest.  The  ladies  soon 
after  left  the  table. 


AFTER-DINNER   STORY.  195 

"  You  hinted  at  dinner,  Mouat,"  said  Hofer 
to  liim,  after  a  pause,  "  that  our  friend  Captain 
Lister  had  a  peculiar  antipathy  to  monkeys. 
Am  I  right  in  supposing  that  thereby  hangs  a 
tale?" 

"  You  are,"  replied  the  Httle  man,  his  eyes 
absolutely  twinkhng  with  malicious  wit,  as  he 
turned  them  upon  the  Captain,  who  had  moved 
uneasily  in  his  chair  when  he  heard  Plofer's 
question. 

"  An  absurd  story,"  said  Lister ;  "  but  yet 
one  that  Mouat  is  fond  of  relating — why,  I 
could  never  discover,  for  really  it  does  not  ap- 
pear to  me  worthy  of  the  flourish  of  trumpets 
with  which  he  introduces  it." 

"  But  you  will  let  us  hear  it,  Captain,"  I 
urged. 

"  Why  Mouat  will  be  sure  to  tell  it  to  you 
some  time  or  other,  and  therefore  I  had  rather 
he  told  it  now,  as  I  can  point  out  his  exaggera- 
tions and  misstatements  as  he  proceeds." 

"  It  was  a  simple  enough  matter  in  itself," 
began  Mouat ;  "  and  really  I  do  not  see  why 
Lister  fears  exaggerations  on  my  part.  As  an 
illustration  of  the  accidents  that  one  is  Kable 
to  in  this  '  garden  of  the  East,'  it  is  right  that 
you  grifhns  should  be  made  acquainted  with  it, 

k2 


196  AFTER-DINXER   STORY. 

for  it  is  only  by  the  misfortunes  of  ourselves  or 
others  that  Ave  can  learn  experience.  There 
are  two  things  that  Lister  is  fond  of — a  good 
dinner  and  a  fair  encounter  with  an  elephant. 
He  is  not  more  dehcate  in  carving  his  haunch 
of  venison  than  in  striking  a  tusker  ;  and  he  is 
equaU}''  good  in  making  away  with  both.  Mrs. 
Mouat,  3^ou  are  aware,  keeps  her  own  sheep, 
and  I  always  try  and  have  a  supply  of  good 
claret  in  the  house,  in  the  hope  of  alluring 
him  occasionally  to  Enminacaddee.  No  man 
should  come  to  Ce34on  to  satisfy  his  gastro- 
nomic propensities ;  and  Lister  has  been 
heard  to  say  that  the  tough  beef  and  scraggy 
mutton  of  Ceylon  had  required  an  amount 
of  patience  and  endurance  on  his  part  during 
the  days  of  the  3^ears  of  his  pilgrimage  in  the 
island,  to  which  that  of  Job  only  could  be 
advantageousl}?"  compared." 

"  You  see  what  a  long-winded  peroration  he 
comes  out  with,"  said  Lister,  interrupting  him. 
"  I  may  have  made  some  remark  of  tliat  kind 
at  a  time  when  execrable  food  only  was  to  be  got ; 
but  what  has  that  to  do  Avith  the  monkeys  ?" 

"  Softl}^  Lister,  softly,"  was  the  reply ;  "  I 
am  coming  to  them.  The  preliminary  circum- 
stances require   explanation.      I   was   on   the 


AFTER-DIITNER   STORY.  197 

bench  one  afternoon,  about  three  o'clock,  when 
a  servant  made  his  way  to  me  with  a  scrap  of 
paper,  on  which  were  written  a  few  lines  in 
pencil,  intimating  that  Lister  was  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood ;  that,  being  on  duty  not  far  from 
Ruminacaddee,  he  had  determined  on  paying 
us  a  A-isit,  and  that  lie  had  sent  his  horse- 
keeper  on  before  with  his  horse,  whilst  he  took 
a  bath  in  the  httle  lake  which  the  Paloya  forms 
about  a  mile  from  our  house,  in  the  Sreepah 
valley.  I  sent  the  note  to  Mrs.  Mouat,  in 
order  that  she  might  take  care  that  our  repu- 
tation for  hospitahty  should  not  suffer  on  the 
occasion.  About  half  an  hour  afterwards  I  left 
the  bench,  expecting  to  find  Lister  at  home ; 
but  he  had  not  arrived.  Having  waited  for 
some  time  longer,  and  still  seeing  no  sign  of 
om'  guest,  I  proposed  to  Mrs.  Mouat  that  we 
should  take  a  walk  towards  the  valle}^  and 
meet  Lister  on  his  route  to  our  bungalow. 
She  assented,  and  we  set  off  in  the  direction  of 
the  pleasant  httle  lake,  through  which  the 
Paloya  flows  so  quietly.  You  have  seen  it,  I 
suppose  ?" 

Hofer  and  I  intimated  together  that  we  had 
not.     Fowler  had. 

"  Have  you  not  ?"  he  continued.     "It's  a 


198  AFTER-DINNER   STORY. 

remarkably  nice  place  for  swimming,  and  per- 
fectly safe." 

"  A  remarkably  nice  place,  and  perfectly 
safe  !"  echoed  Lister,  with  a  groan. 

"  The  hills  rise  gently  on  all  sides  of  it," 
continued  Mouat,  "  but  particularly  so  on  that 
leading  to  our  bungalow,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  a  dense  forest,  tlirough  which  I 
have  had  a  path  constructed.  The  jungle  does 
not  extend  to  the  water's  edge,  for  there  is  a 
pleasant  shingly  beach  on  all  sides,  sloping 
gradually  down  to  the  water.  Clear  as  crystal 
is  the  lake  itself,  and  uninfested  either  by 
snakes  or  alligators. 

"  Advancing  towards  the  valley  along  the 
path,  Mrs.  Mouat  and  myself  were  equally  sur- 
prised at  not  seehig  anything  of  our  portly 
friend.  At  length,  we  approached  a  little 
ridge,  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  from  which  the 
whole  lake  could  be  discovered,  and,  feeling 
firmly  convinced  that  no  man  could  have  been 
so  long  bathing,  I  insisted  on  my  wife's  ad- 
vancing with  me,  which  she  did  rather  reluc- 
tantly. Standing  on  this  little  ridge,  to  our 
astonishment,  we  saw  Lister  upright  in  the 
middle  of  the  miniature  lake,  with  his  hat  on 
his  head,  and  the  water  up  to  his  neck.     '  Why, 


AFTER-DINNER   STORY.  199 

Lister,'  I  shouted  out,  '  in  the  name  of  all  that 
is  wonderful,  what  are  you  doing  there  in  the 
middle  of  the  water,  dressed  ?'  '  Ahem,'  said 
he,  '  I  heard  you  coming — I'm  not  exactly 
dressed;  in  fact — '  and  as  he  spoke  he  took 
off  his  hat,  disclosing  in  the  action  a  bare 
arm  and  shoulder.  My  wife  returned  precipi- 
tately to  the  bungalow,  and  I  advanced.  '  In 
fact,'  continued  Lister,  as  he  walked  deliberately 
to  the  shore,  '  I've  lost  all  my  clothes,  and  as 
you're  magistrate  here,  I  trust  you'll  investigate 
the  matter.  It  does  not  speak  much  for  the 
vigilance  with  wliich  justice  is  executed  in 
Huminacaddee,  that  a  man  cannot  bathe  a  mile 
from  the  magistrate's  bungalow,  without  having 
all  his  clothes  stolen,'  " 

"  A  very  natural  reflection  on  my  part,"  in- 
terposed Lister,  interrupting  Mouat's  recital, 
"  considering  the  circumstances  I  was  placed  in, 
and  ignorant  as  I  was — " 

"  '  All  your  clothes  !'  said  I,  "  continued 
Mouat,  '  all,  except  your  hat !  and,  let  me 
see,  why  you've  got  one  stocking  on.'  That 
was  the  enthe  stock  of  clothing  with  which  he 
made  his  exit  from  the  lake,  and  sat  down  upon 
a  large  smooth  stone  to  talk  about  it.     His  hat 


200  AFTER-DIXXER   STORY. 

and  one  stocking  !  It  was  all  that  I  could  do 
to  keep  my  countenance ;  but  in  spite  of  tlie 
most  vigorous  resolutions  to  tliat  effect,  a  grin 
would  occasional!}'-  distend  my  mouth  and  dis- 
close my  teeth,  as  I  contemplated  the  portly 
figure  before  me,  sitting  on  a  stone,  the  hat 
and  one  stocking  forming  his  entire  available 
wardrobe.  '  It's  no  laughing  matter,'  said 
Lister,  indignantly ;  '  the  suit  of  clothes  I 
have  lost  is  a  jungle  suit  of  checked  cloth, 
and,  anticipating  a  ride  back  to  our  quarters 
early  to-morrow,  I  did  not  bring  any  others, 
and  now,  as  you  see,  they  are  all  gone.  I  can- 
not dine  at  your  house,  or  ride  to  Neapla  in  this 
condition.'  '  Certainly  not,'  said  I.  *  You 
can  neither  do  the  one  nor  the  other — as  magis- 
trate it  is  my  duty  to  see  that  decency  is  not 
outraged  in  my  district.'  '  I  suppose,  then,  it 
is  your  duty  likewise  to  see  that  robberies  of 
this  nefarious  kind  are  not  committed  with  im- 
punity,' said  he.  '  Where  did  you  put  your 
clothes  ?'  I  asked,  mustering  up  all  the  gravity 
possible  under  the  circumstances,  in  order  to 
investigate  the  matter  judicially.  '  I  put  them 
all  on  this  stone,'  he  answered,  '  on  which 
I  am  now  sitting,  together  with  two  bathing 


AFTER-DINNER   STORY.  201 

sheets,  left  by  my  horsekeeper.'  *Ancl  where  did 
you  find  the  hat  and  the  odd  stocking  ?'  I  asked 
again.  '  Finding  my  clothes  gone  when  I  came 
out  of  the  lake,  about  an  hour  ago  I  suppose,  I 
searched  on  every  side,  at  first  supposing  that 
some  one  was  playing  a  very  unpleasant  practi- 
cal joke  upon  me  ;  not  being  able  to  find  them, 
I  returned  into  the  water  and  took  an  additional 
swim,  in  the  hope  that  they  would  be  restored. 
Finding  them  still  gone,  however,  when  I  again 
came  out,  I  got  annoyed,  and  shouted  out 
lustily,  but  no  one  heard  me.  I  searched 
vigorously  eveiywhere  in  the  neighbouring 
jungle,  as  far  as  I  could  safety  penetrate  in  this 
condition,  and  at  length  I  found,  over  there, 
my  hat,  and  a  httle  further  on,  one  stocking ; 
but  more  there  was  not,  although  I  advanced 
considerabty  fui'ther.'  '  I  have  it,'  I  exclaimed ; 
'  the  monkeys  have  been  here,  and  have  run 
off  with  the  clothes ;  they  often  play  pranks 
of  that  kind,  and,  not  being  able  to  manage 
the  huge  pith  hat,  they  abandoned  it ;  one 
of  them  must  have  dropped  the  stockmg.' 
'  Hang  the  monkeys  !  '  exclaimed  Lister, 
energetically ;  '  but  it  is  only  a  very  slight 
consolation  to  know  that  your  sagacity  has  dis- 
covered that  fact,  if  it  cannot  do  more.'     '  And 

k3 


202  AFTER-DINNER   STORY. 

your  watch  ?  '  I  asked.  '  My  watch  is,  for- 
tunately, safe,'  was  the  reply ;  '  I  put  it  on 
the  flat  branch  of  that  tree,  and  there  it  is 
stUL' 

"  A  servant  from  the  bungalow  here  interrup- 
ted our  colloquy  by  informing  us,  as  he  stared, 
open-eyed,  at  Lister's  appearance,  that  Mrs. 
Mouat  had  sent  her  compliments,  and  told  him 
to  say  that  dinner  was  ready. 

"  '  Dinner  ! '  groaned  Lister,  as  he  surveyed 
his  forlorn  condition,  '  dinner  ready,  dished, 
perhaps,  and  I  in  this  state  !' 

" '  Bring  down  a  suit  of  clothes  from  the 
bungalow,'  said  I  to  the  servant,  '  and  tell  the 
peons*  to  search  the  jungle  on  that  side  for  the 
Captain's  clothes.'  " 

" '  Bring  down  a  suit  of  clothes  from  the 
bungalow,'  re-echoed  Lister;  '  whose  clothes  ?' 
'  Wliy,  mine  to  be  sure, '  I  rephed ;  '  you 
would  not  have  Mrs.  Mouat's,  would  you  ?'  " 

"  It's  all  very  laughable,  I  don't  doubt,  gen- 
tlemen," said  Lister,  again  interrupting  Mouat, 
and  rising  from  his  chair,  '^but,  by  Jove,  I 
never  heard  a  man  tell  a  simple  anecdote  with 
so  much  verbiage  as  Mouat.     For  my  part  he 

*  Native  police. 


AFTER-DINNER   STORY.  203 

gives  me  a  headache,  he  talks  so  much.  I'll  go 
and  join  the  ladies." 

So  saying,  the  Captain  left  us,  and  Mouat 
proceeded  with  his  story — 

"  '  Bo  you  seriously  think  that  I  shall  ever 
get  your  clothes  on?'  asked  Lister,  when  the 
servant  had  gone,  not  a  muscle  of  his  coun- 
tenance betraying  the  shghest  inclination  to  a 
smile.  '  I  really  don't  know,'  said  I,  '  but  we 
must  try  at  all  events.  Something  must  be 
done.'  '  True;  something  must  be  done,  as 
you  say,'  he  repeated ;  '  and,  besides,  the 
dinner's  ready, — spoilt  by  this  time,  I  dare 
say,'  and  he  brought  down  his  open  hand  with 
startling  energy  upon  his  bare  thigh.  I 
endeavoured  to  keep  my  countenance  still,  but  it 
was  useless  ;  the  Sreepah  valley  rung  with  my 
laughter  as  I  contemplated  the  extraordinary 
pictm-e  before  me.  Would  that  I  were  an  artist, 
and  I  should  commit  it  at  once  to  canvas  ! 

"  The  peons  soon  made  their  appearance, 
and  commenced  searching  the  jungle  ener- 
getically for  the  missing  garments,  whilst  I 
secured  the  watch.  At  length  the  servant  re- 
turned with  the  suit  of  clothes,  and,  as  Lister 
seized  the  pantaloons  and  held  them  up  before 
him  for  inspection,  I  felt  convinced   at  once 


204  AFTER-DINNER   STORY. 

that  they  would  never  encase  those  herculean 
limbs  or  that  protuberant  form.  Lister  sighed 
deeply  as  he  looked  at  them,  and  shook  his 
liead  ominously.  '  But  the  sliirt,'  I  suggested, 
'  why  not  put  it  on  first?'  '  0,  certainly,'  said 
he,  'that  must  go  on.'  With  some  coaxing 
the  shirt  was  insinuated  over  his  ample  shoul- 
ders, and  his  hands  were  got  out  at  the  proper 
extremities.  True,  the  wrists  and  collar  would 
not  button,  and  the  whole  aifair  scarcely 
reached  beyond  his  hips,  but,  as  he  said,  these 
were  mmor  inconveniences  ;  the  important  fact 
was,  that  he  had  a  shirt  on. 

"  The  pantaloons  were  essayed  next.  It  was 
not  without  much  insinuation,  coaxing,  and 
management  that  the  shirt  had  been  got  into 
its  natural  position,  but  what  shall  I  say  of  the 
persevering  efforts  made  to  drag  the  pantaloons 
into  their  proper  places !  Could  they  have 
spoken  they  would  doubtless  have  remonstrated, 
stating  that  they  had  never  been  intended  to  fit 
limbs  double  the  size  of  their  owner's,  especially 
when  the  aforesaid  limbs  were  quite  wet,  for, 
in  his  haste,  Lister  had  forgotten  to  dry  them 
properly  before  essaying  the  nether  garments. 
It  was  utterly  impossible  for  me  to  assist  him 
in  any  way — the  stern,  grim  air  of  determina- 


AFTER-DINNER   STORY.  205 

tion  mtli  which  he  tugged   and  pulled,  and 
writhed   and   twisted   the   garment  upon   his 
limbs,  and  his  limbs  into  the  garment,  would 
have  been  too  much  for  the  most  imperturbable 
countenance  that  ever  a  man  possessed.     He 
was  too  intent  upon  his  exertions,  however,  to 
heed  me,  and  when  one  of  the  servants  gently 
offered    assistance,    he    knocked     liim    aside. 
'  Hurra !  hur-r-r-ra !'  he  shouted  at  length,  as 
he  seated  himself  once  more,  overcome  with 
his  indefatigable  exertions,  aud  the  big  round 
drops  coursing  each  other  from  his   forehead. 
He  had  hallooed,  however,  before  he  was  out  of 
the  wood;    true,  both  his  legs,   quivering  in 
their  tight  covering,  were  encased;  and  the  feet 
were  both  apparent  at  the  |)roper  ends,  but  the 
unfortunate  article  of  dress,  straining  almost  to 
bm'sting  in  every  stitch,  was  yet  to  be  drawn 
up  over  the  ample  rotundity  of  the  Captain's 
portly   figure,    and  this    I   foresaw  would  be 
no  joke  to  accomplish,  if  not  absolutely  im- 
possible. 

"  At  length,  muttering  '  dinner  '  again,  he  re- 
sumed his  exertions  with  a  forced  air  of 
desperate  calmness.  This  time  I  endeavoured 
to  assist  by  dragging  the  pantaloons  up. 
'  Stop  !  stop  !'    shouted  Lister ;  '  easy,  Mouat, 


206  AFTER-DIXXER   STORY. 

easy ;  they're  splitting.'  They  were  splitting, 
and  scarcely  liad  one  thread  gone  when  another 
followed  it,  till,  notwithstanding  the  cessation 
of  our  exertions,  it  was  very  apparent  that  the 
two  legs  of  the  garment  would,  in  a  moment, 
be  entirely  separated  the  one  from  the  other. 
Such  was  soon  actually  the  case ;  and  Lister, 
groaning  again,  sat  himself  disconsolately  down 
upon  the  stone  to  vent  his  disappointment  and 
annoyance  upon  me,  the  servants,  the  pan- 
taloons, and  the  monkeys.  '  These  must  be 
taken  off  again,'  said  I  to  him,  anxious  that 
the  whole  transaction  were  ended,  for  I  felt 
hungry  and  exhausted  with  laughter.  '  Taken 
off  again  !'  he  growled  forth,  in  no  very  amiable 
key ;  '  yes,  I  suppose  they  must  ;  a  worse- 
made  pair  I  never  saw ;  I  wonder  you  wear 
such  clothes.' 

"  To  put  them  on  had  been  a  matter  of  no 
Httle  difficulty — to  take  them  off  was  appa- 
rently impossible.  The  legs  not  having  been 
properly  dried,  as  I  said,  the  pantaloons  stuck 
to  them  with  a  tenacity,  increased  tenfold  by 
the  tightness  with  which  they  were  stretched 
over  the  hmbs.  There  was  this  in  favour  of 
their  removal,  however,  a  circumstance  not  to 
be  undervalued  in  such  a  position — that  the 


AFTER-DINNER  STORY.  207 

legs  of  the  j)antaloons  had  now  completely 
parted  company,  and  might  therefore  be  taken 
off,  one  at  a  time.  '  Gatchee,  pull  them  off,' 
said  I  to  the  servant,  whose  exertions  to  assist 
Lister  before  had  been  so  ill-requited.  Gatchee 
squatted  down  in  front  of  the  huge  figure  on 
the  stone,  and  catching  a  hold  of  one  of  the 
legs,  attempted  to  drag  its  close  bandage  off  it. 
He  tugged  and  strained,  and  puffed  and  pulled, 
sometimes  standing,  sometimes  kneehng,  some- 
times squatting  again,  as  Singhalese  servant 
never  had  done  before,  but  all  to  no  purpose. 
The  tenacious  garment,  so  laboriously  fixed  in  its 
position,  resisted  all  efforts  to  be  removed  with 
a  force  and  perseverance  that  completely  belied 
Lister's  statement  that  they  were  rotten — to 
this  day  he  maintains  that  they  could  not  have 
been  a  sound  pair,  or  they  would  not  have  split 
as  they  did ! 

"  Whilst  Gatchee  was  thus  pulling  and 
straining  to  remove  what  had  been  got  on 
with  so  much  difficulty,  one  of  the  peons  re- 
turned with  the  Captain's  waistcoat,  which  he 
had  found  in  the  jungle,  mforming  us  at  the 
same  time,  that  the  monkeys,  knowing  they 
were  pursued,  were  travelling,  in  an  immense 
herd,  rapidly  away  to  the  south-east,  still  obsti- 


208  •AFTER-DINNER   STORY. 

nately  retaining  possession  of  their  unwonted 
booty.  '  Why  don't  you  throw  something  at 
them,  you  donkeys,  and  they  will  throw  the 
clothes  at  you?'  asked  Lister,  savagel}^,  as  he 
arrayed  himself  in  the  waistcoat  which  com- 
pletely hid  many  of  the  defects  of  the  shkt,  as 
it  buttoned  up  almost  to  the  throat.  '  We 
tried  that  MaJiathma'  said  the  peon,  making 
sidewa3^s  for  the  forest,  for  he  did  not  like  the 
expression  of  Lister's  face — '  we  tried  that, 
Mahathma,  and  they  would  not  throw  anything 
down.  The  waistcoat  cauo-ht  in  a  branch  of 
the  tree  by  the  arm-hole,  and  the  monkey  tore 
it  a  little  in  trying  to  pull  it  awa}^'  '  Either 
the  monkey  that  ran  away  with  it,  or  the 
donkey  that  got  it  off  the  tree,  tore  it,  I  see,' 
said  Lister,  '  but  I  don't  believe  you  pelted  the 
scoundrels  well,  or  else  they  M^ould  throw  them 
all  at  3^ou.'  '  They  are  far  away  in  the  forest, 
Mahathma,^  urged  the  peon,  still  making  silently 
and  stealthily  for  the  jungle,  '  and  they 
can  travel  there  faster  than  we  can.'  '  I  shall 
put  a  bullet  into  every  grinning  jackanapes  of 
them  all  that  I  can  catch  henceforth,'  muttered 
Lister,  sternly,  *  I  have  always  spared  them 
hitherto,  but  I  shall  not  do  so  for  the  future — 
baboons,  chimpanzees,  orang  otangs,  or  mon- 


AFTER-DINNER   STORY.  209 

keys,  whatever  name  tliey  may  go  under,  it's 
all  the  same  to  me ;  I'll  pay  them  off'  for  this, 
some  day.' 

"  Another  servant  now  made  his  appearance 
from  the  bungalow,  bearing  a  fr-esh  bundle  of 
clothes,  which  we  proceeded  to  investigate. 
Mrs.  Mouat,  doubtless  informed  of  the  difficulty 
wliich  detained  us,  had  discovered  the  only 
possible  means  of  overcoming  it — she  had  sent 
down  a  pair  of  my  pyjamas,*  and  a  dressing 
gown.  It  was  strange  we  had  not  thought  of 
these  before,  for  the  pyjamas  were  wide  enough 
to  go  round  three  men  of  my  bulk,  and  the 
dressing  gown  was  ample  and  loose.  '  Yes,' 
said  Lister,  a  ray  of  light  animating  his  coun- 
tenance, as  I  distended  the  wide  pyjamas  to 
their  utmost,  '  yes,'  those  look  hopeful ;  but  I 
must  have  these  off'  first — here  Gatchee,  pull 
like  a  man !  and  he  seated  himself  for  that 
purpose  again.  Gatchee  pulled  again  more 
violently  than  ever,  but  as  unsuccessfully,  and 
Lister,  irritated  by  these  repeated  mishaps  and 
annoyances,  put  his  foot  against  the  unfortu- 
nate darkey's  chest,  and  sent  him  headlong  into 
the  lake — '  there,'  said  the  much-tormented, 
half-naked  Captain,  as  the  turbaned  head  dis- 

♦  Sleeping  trowsers,  made  full  and  wide,  in  Oriental  fashion. 


2J0  AFTER-DIXXER   STORY, 

appeared  in  the  water, — '  there,  I'll  teach  you  to 
grin,  you  coffee-faced  monkey ;  have  you  learned 
nothing  better  yet,  under  your  worshipful 
master,  than  to  laugh  at  his  guests,  when  they 
get  into  misfortune?'  Gatchee  soon  emerged 
from  his  involuntary  bath  unhurt,  and  made  his 
way  to  the  bungalow,  not  feehng  disposed  to  offer 
his  services  to  the  much  persecuted  Captain  any 
more.  '  Quite  right,  Lister,'  said  I,  apologeti- 
cally, seeing  there  was  no  harm  done, '  the  rascal 
had  no  right  to  grin  at  you — in  fact  there  is 
nothing  to  laugh  at :  but  how  are  we  to  remove 
these  casings  of  which  jour  legs  seem  so  tena- 
cious.' '  They  must  be  ripped  up,'  said  Lister, 
eagerly,  the  bright  thought  striking  him  at  the 
instant,  as  he  hastily  surveyed  the  aspect  of 
affairs.  '  Ripped  up,  certainly,'  said  I,  '  a 
capital  idea,'  and  I  took  out  my  penknife  forth- 
with. A  few  threads  cut  down  the  side,  the 
rest  speedily  gave  way,  and  a  few  seconds  after 
we  had  thus  dissected  the  unfortunate  panta- 
loons. Lister  was  decently  clothed  in  the 
pyjamus  and  dressing  gown.  '  Can  I  sit  at 
yom'  table  in  this  condition  ?'  he  asked  in  a  la- 
clirymose  tone,  as  he  surveyed  himself  '  Cer- 
tainly, '  I  replied, '  you'll  do  admirably  now.  You 
know  we  are  not  over-particular  in  the  jungle.' 


AFTER-DINi!^ER   STORY.  211 

"  And  truly  the  figure  he  then  presented  was 
a  strange  one  !  The  dressmg-gown,  loose  and 
easy  as  it  was  for  me,  was  straining  in  every 
stitch  between  the  shoulders  and  down  the 
arms,  whilst  such. was  its  tightness  that  it  was 
absolutely  impossible  for  him  to  put  his  arms 
straight  down  by  his  sides,  so  that  they  curved 
out  hke  the  handles  of  some  of  those  antique 
vases — '  the  ears,'  as  they  classically  term  them 
— which  jut  out  semicircularly  on  either  side. 
The  sleeves  reached  more  than  half  way  between 
the  elbow  and  the  wrist,  wliilst  the  slm*t  was 
apparent  an  inch  further.  Round  the  portly 
person  of  the  ill-used  Captain  the  dressing- 
gown  would  not  of  course  meet  by  several 
inches,  '  but  that,'  said  he,  as  he  attempted  it, 
'  is  of  Httle  consequence,  seeing  that  I  have  my 
own  waistcoat  on.'  If  the  upper  portion  of 
his  person,  however,  was  ludicrous,  the  lower 
was  infinitely  more  so.  The  pyjamas  were 
by  no  means  loose  for  him,  and  as  they 
were  well  hoisted  up  to  conceal  the  top  under 
the  waistcoat,  they  did  not  reach  very  far 
below  the  knee,  leaving  the  rest  of  the  leg 
exposed,  for  he  had  discarded  the  odd  stocking, 
and  was  now  endeavouring  to  walk  in  an  ample 
pair  of  slippers. 


Jii:^  after-dinot:r  story. 

"  No  sooner  was  the  outer  man  tlius  encased 
in  the  Lest  way  that  circumstances  would  per- 
mit, than  his  thoughts,  as  I  anticipated,  turned 
upon  dinner.  '  The  mutton  will  be  done  to 
rags,'  said  he,  as  he  tramped  vigorously  towards 
the  bungalow.  '  That  will  be  the  fault  of  the 
monkeys,  not  of  the  cook,'  said  I.  '  Monkeys 
— monkeys,'  he  repeated,  '  I  owe  them  one. 
Of  all  the  shouting,  roaring,  jabbering,  grin- 
ning, crawhng,  jumping  inhabitants  of  the 
forest,  I  hate  them  most.  I  always  hated 
them.  Thejr're  the  ugliest  and  nastiest  ani- 
mals ahve.'  '  To  say  nothing  of  their  thieving 
propensities,'  I  added.  '  Yes,  to  say  nothing 
of  their  thieving  propensities,'  said  he,  '  but 
I'U  pay  them  off.  Not  another  reptile  of 
them  sliall  escape  me  when  I  have  a  gun  in 
my  hand ;'  and  so  saying  he  brought  down  his 
hand  vehemently,  as  is  his  wont,  upon  his 
thigh. 

"  A  few  twitches  from  the  shoulder  of  the 
dressing-gown  warned  him  that  he  must  not 
be  too  energetic,  or  else  the  arms  would  part 
company,  as  the  legs  of  the  other  garment  had 
before.  '  Miserably  made  clothes  jow  do  wear 
in  the  jungle,'  said  he,  turning  his  head  to  try 
if  by  any  means  he  could  see  the  threatened 


AFTEK-DINNER   STORY.  213 

danger ;  and  then  brooding  over  his  late  mis- 
hap, and  anticipating  the  coming  diimer,  he 
made  his  way  in  silence  to  the  bungalow. 
Mrs.  Mouat's  gravity  was  a  Httle  upset  when 
she  first  saw  him,  but  once  seated  at  dinner, 
all  went  off  well,  nor  had  so  much  injury  been 
done  to  the  viands  as  we  had  feared — the  claret 
at  all  events,  as  he  triumphantlj^  remarked, 
would  not  be  spoiled  hy  waiting.  His  coat, 
torn  almost  to  shreds,  was  brought  in  late  in 
the  evening  hy  the  peons,  but  of  none  of  the 
other  articles  missing  could  they  discover  a 
trace.  Doubtless  the  monkeys  had  hidden 
them  on  finding  themselves  pursued.  Next 
morning,  therefore,  Lister  had  to  ride  back  to 
Neapla  in  nij  pj'jamas,  and  an  odd  enough 
figure  he  cut  in  them  on  horseback." 

Mouat's  strange  narrative  concluded,  we 
rose  to  seek  Lister  and  the  ladies,  but  my  im- 
agination was  so  busy  with  the  various  inci- 
dents that  had  been  thus  recently  related,  that 
I  could  pay  but  Httle  attention  to  anything 
else,  and  once  or  twice  when  Mrs.  Hofer  was 
telling  us  of  the  sorrows  of  some  poor  Sing- 
halese in  the  neighboru'hood,  who  would  have 
been  starved  to  death  had  not  she  assisted 
them,  I  found  myself  grinning  egregiously  as 


214  MOONLIGHT   RIDE. 

I  looked  at  Lister,  and  thought  of  his  mis- 
fortunes, greatly  to  the  astonishment,  and 
sometimes  to  the  indignation,  of  the  fair  nar- 
rator. 

It  was  late  that  night  ere  I  turned  my 
horse's  head  homewards,  for  our  long  moon- 
light ride.  For  a  short  distance  my  route  lay 
with  that  of  the  party  of  Ruminacaddee,  which 
was  not  much  more  than  tlu'ee  miles  from 
Lanka,  and,  on  leaving  them,  Fowler  and  I 
rode  leisurely  along  conversing  of  many  things, 
— the  adventure  of  the  snake,  the  misfortunes 
of  Lister,  and  the  worth  and  amiabihty  of 
Mrs.  Hofer. 


Adam's  peak.  215 


CHAPTEE  VII. 


ADAM'S  PEAK. 


"  These  high  wild  hills,  and  rough  uneven  ways, 
Draw  out  our  miles,  and  make  them  wearisome." 

Richard  II.,  act  ii.,  sc.  3. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  natural  object  in  Ceylon 
that  so  powerfully  arrests  the  attention  of  the 
visitor  or  traveller  as  the  remarkable  mountain 
called  Adam's  Peak.  It  can  be  seen  clearly 
from  all  the  south-western  coast,  and  from  a 
considerable  distance  at  sea,  ever  pointing 
with  its  bare,  insulated,  cone-shaped  sum- 
mit to  the  skies — sometimes  clear  and  well- 
defined  on  the  bright  blue,  or  white,  behind  it, 
but  more  generally  cloud-capped,  and  either 
altogether  enveloped  in  its  watery  shroud,  or 
only  partially  seen  here  and  there,  as  if  batthng 
manfully  with  its  enemies. 

It  is  sacred  to  every  class  of  the  natives. 


216  LEGENDARY   HISTORY 

The  Mohammedans,  equally  ^\dth  the  unedu- 
cated and  ignorant  Christians,  heheving  that 
the  Grarden  of  Eden  was  situated  in  Ceylon, 
further  assert  that,  on  the  summit  of  this 
mountain,  Adam  stood  for  a  thousand  years  on 
one  leg,  as  a  penance,  leaving  behind  him  an 
impression  of  his  foot  in  the  granite  rock.  The 
Hindus,  not  to  he  l^ehind  them  in  absm'dity, 
state  that  one  of  their  legendarj?-  kings  or  gods 
— a  giant,  called  Eama,  or  Siva,  for  traditions 
differ — in  making  his  wa)^  into  India,  put  one 
foot  on  the  summit  of  the  peak,  whilst  he 
stepped  out  to  Adam's  Bridge,  in  the  extreme 
north  of  the  island,  with  the  other,  a  distance 
of  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  and  so 
left  the  foot-impression  on  the  summit  which 
has  been  ever  since  so  remarkable  an  attesta- 
tion, at  once  of  his  power  and  size.  But  the 
Budhists  alone  crowd  to  the  top  to  worship 
there,  notwithstanding  all  the  dangers  and 
I'atigues  of  the  way ;  and  their  story  of  course 
connects  this  strange  foot-impression  with  the 
legendary  liistory  of  their  own  great  prophet. 

The  genius  of  the  place,  says  their  tradition, 
having  heard  of  Budha's  arrival  in  Ceylon, 
went  to  him,  and,  worshipping,  requested  him 
to  leave  an  impression  of  his  foot  on  the  moun- 


i 


OF  Adam's  peak.  217 

tain  of  which  he  was  the  guardian,  that  it  might 
be  worshipped  during  the  five  thousand  years 
his  rehgion  would  last  on  earth.  To  induce 
the  man-god  to  comply  with  his  request,  the 
crafty  genius  repeated  at  length  the  praises  of 
the  mountain.  The  flowers  on  its  sides  and 
near  the  summit,  he  compared  to  a  magnificent 
garment  and  head-dress — the  hum  of  the  bees, 
as  they  sped  through  the  air,  laden  with  honey, 
to  the  music  of  lutes — the  birds,  to  bells  send- 
ing forth  sweet  chimes — the  waving  trees, 
agitated  by  the  v/ind,  to  a  band  of  dancers, 
x'^ll,  he  declared,  acknowledged  the  supremacy 
of  Budlia.  The  trees  ofiered  fruits  and  flowers 
to  him  ;  the  reptiles  on  the  marshes,  the  fish  in 
the  streams,  the  birds  on  the  branches,  the 
elephants,  leopards,  bears,  deer,  monkeys,  hares, 
and  other  animals  in  the  jungle,  all  worshipped 
liim.  Budha  consented.  He  went  througli 
the  air  with  liis  five  hundred  followers,  and 
great  was  the  concourse,  and  magnificent  the 
assembly  that  crowded  the  mountain  in  con- 
sequence. 

The  genius  of  the  place,  attended  by  thou- 
sands of  similar  spirits,  with  their  queens,  who 
made  music,  and  carried  flags  and  banners,  and 
scattered    about    gold    and    gems,    stood    by 

VOL.  I.  L 


218  PROJECTED  ASCENT 

Budlia's  right  hand.  The  gods  were  all  there 
— Sekra  and  Maha,  Brahma  and  Iswara — aU 
inferior  to  the  Budha — with  their  attendant 
trains,  were  there,  "  and  like  the  rolling  of  the 
great  ocean  upon  Maha  Meru,  or  the  Yugand- 
hara  rocks,  was  the  sound  of  their  arrival."  In 
the  midst  of  the  assembled  spirits,  Budha, 
looking  towards  the  east,  put  his  foot  on  the 
liard  granite,  and  lo  !  the  impression  was  made 
— "  a  seal  to  show  that  Lanka,  or  Ceylon,  is 
the  inheritance  of  Budha,  and  that  his  re- 
Kgion  ^viH  here  ilourish  for  ever."* 

I  had  determined,  from  the  first  moment 
that  I  saw  Adam's  Peak,  when  at  Point  de 
(iaUe,  to  ascend  it,  if  the  ascent  were  possible ; 
and,  finding  that  it  was  so,  that  several  pilgrims 
3'early  went  up,  although  at  considerable  risk,  I 
was  determined,  sooner  or  later,  to  make  my  way 
to  the  summit.  Wlien  the  idle  season  had  ar- 
I'ived  on  the  estate — all  the  year's  produce 
bagged  and^  despatched,  and  nothing  but  the 
ordinary  routine  of  weeding  to  be  done,  I  found 
myself  called  off  to  Colombo  by  business — 
Hofer  was  there  too,  and  we  detennined  toge- 
ther to  ascend  the  Peak,  before  we  returned 
to  the  jimgle.     It  was  not  much  out  of  our 

*  Abridged  from  the  "  Manual  of  Budhism,"  by  K.  S.  Hardy. 


OF  Adam's  peak.  219 

way,  and  a  delay  of  a  few  days  on  tlie  route 
would  be  amply  recompensed  by  tbe  novelty  of 
an  ascent,  and  the  pleasure  of  spending  a  niglit 
upon  the  summit,  to  say  notliing  of  the  inspec- 
tion of  the  far-famed  foot-impression  itself. 
True,  it  was  not  the  time  when  pilgrims  usually 
made  their  way  to  the  top  from  motives  of 
piety ;  but  that  did  not  disconcert  us  much, 
rather,  perhaps,  on  the  other  hand  added  a  zest 
to  our  anticipated  enjoyment,  as  we  should  be 
alone,  far  away  from  all  abode  of  humanity, 
after  plmiging  into  the  recesses  of  the  moun- 
tain. 

It  was  therefore  with  considerable  pleasure 
that  we  made  our  way  together  one  morning 
about  four  o'clock,  from  the  Fort  of  Colombo, 
mounted  upon  horses  with  •which  we  were 
thoroughly  acquainted,  and  wdiich  were  equally 
well  acquainted  with  us.  My  steed  was  the 
redoubted  Uncle  Toby,  a  small,  black  Arab, 
strong  as  an  elephant,  muscular  to  excess,  and 
withal  enjoying  a  spirit  and  energy  that  would 
have  made  him  work  till  he  dropped  down 
dead,  merely  by  the  incitement  of  the  voice, 
had  any  one  been  barbarous  enough  to  make 
the  trial.  His  figure  reminded  me  of  the  por- 
traits of  the   Godolphin   Arabian,   whom   he 

L  2 


220  SETTING   OUT   FROM   COLOMBO. 

resembled  in  his  strange  length  and  breadth 
of  neck,  in  his  glossy  black  coat,  and  in  the 
tine  curve  of  his  back.  Yet  he  was  no  racer, 
far  from  it ;  merely  a  serviceable  hack,  of  great 
strength  and  indomitable  perseverance ;  '^  go  of 
all  kinds  in  him,"  as  Captain  Lister  would 
have  expressed  it,  "  up  hill  and  down  hill, 
in  jungle  or  on  cleared  land,  on  an  estate  or  in 
the  streets  of  Kandy,  go  of  every  description, 
and  good  go  too,  though  not  absolutely  the 
best,  good  in  safety,  in  perseverance,  in 
courage,  though  not  the  best  in  speed." 
Hofer's  horse  was  a  well-trained  country  ani- 
mal, admirably  suited  for  the  jungle,  and  by 
no  means  bad-looking ;  so  that  we  regarded 
ourselves  as  well  mounted  for  the  journey. 
Our  few  traps  and  considerable  quantity  of 
provisions  were  carried  by  ten  coolies,  headed 
by  a  guide,  a  Singhalese,  who  had  been  to  the 
summit  before,  knew  a  Httle  English,  and  was 
to  act  as  cook  during  the  expedition 

The  coolies  and  the  guide — the  latter  de- 
lighting in  the  euphonious  appellation  of  Poon- 
chy — had  been  despatched  to  the  first  station 
the  day  before,  and,  on  our  arrival,  we  found 
Poonchy  busily  engaged  in  the  mysteries  of 
cooking  ;  he  and  the  coolies  occupying  a  large 


BREAKFAST   ON   THE   KOAD.  221 

bam-like  building,  which  had  been  tastefully 
prepared  for  our  reception  by  placing  two 
three-legged  chairs,  obtained  from  the  neigh - 
boui'ing  head-man  or  village  chief,  near  a  non- 
descript board  elevated  on  four  sticks  stuck 
into  the  earthen  floor,  which  contrivance  the 
aforesaid  Poonchy  dignified  by  the  name  and 
title  of  a  "  table."  It  appeared  strange  to  us 
that  they  had  put  the  table-cloths  on  the  chairs 
instead  of  the  table,  but  we  learned  on  inquiry, 
that  this  was  the  head-man's  contrivance  to 
show  "  plenty  honour  to  masters,"  as  Poonchy 
expressed  it.  Having  sufficiently  admired 
these  arrangements  we  washed  and  then  sat 
down  to  breakfast,  all  the  time  exposed  to  the 
wondering  or  curious  gaze  of  every  man,  wo- 
man, and  child  the  little  village  contained, 
who  crowded  one  side  of  the  building  on  which 
the  architect  had  forgotten  to  construct  a  wall, 
and  pertinaciously  remained  there,  not  with - 
standuig  Poonchy 's  incessant  abuse  of  them. 
It  was  useless  talking  to  him;  he  was  one 
of  those  hopeless  individuals  who  will  have 
their  own  way,  feeling  quite  sure  that  whoever 
else  may  be  wrong,  they  must  be  right. 

Breakfast  dispatched,  we  set  about  making 
ourselves  comfortable,   and,   for  this  purpose, 


222  UNFORTUNATE   MISHAP. 

Hofer  took  two  of  tlie  chairs,  the  one  to  sit 
upon,  the  other  for  his  feet,  whilst  I  endea- 
vom-ed  to  make  myself  equally  comfortable 
with  a  chair  and  the  "  table,"  an  additional 
chair  having  been  added  to  om'  stock  of  furni- 
ture by  the  indefatigable  Poonchy,  as  a  "  side- 
board." The  endeavour  however,  to  render 
ourselves  more  at  ease  was  unsuccessful ;  in  a 
moment  of  thoughtlessness,  Hofer,  his  feet 
resting  on  one  chau',  tilted  himself  back  on  the 
hind  legs  of  the  other,  a  position  for  which 
they  were  e\ddently  not  prepared,  for,  giving 
way,  he  and  they  sought  the  ground  together. 
Nor  did  I  fare  better.  The  extraordinary 
contrivance  which  Poonchy  dignified  with 
the  name  of  table,  disdained  the  ignoble 
duty  of  supporting  my  feet,  and  no  sooner 
did  Hofer,  who  had  been  leaning  against  it 
on  the  opposite  side  to  me  disappear,  than  it 
gradually  and  gracefully  descended  after  him. 

Our  road,  during  our  journey  in  the  evening, 
lay  through  a  fine  sporting  countiy.  A  few 
years  have,  I  believe,  made  a  great  change 
in  the  district  in  the  way  of  improvement,  but 
in  1843,  the  neighbom-hood  of  Sitawaka  was 
as  wild  as  any  tiger-hunter  could  desire.  The 
leopards    were    more    numerous    perhaps    in 


ALARM   OF  THE   NATIVES.  223 

other  parts  of  the  island,  but  every  other 
species  of  game  abounded  in  the  countr}"^ 
tln'ough  which  we  were  journeying.  Oiu- 
progress,  therefore,  it  may  be  easily  conceived, 
was  by  no  means  a  rapid  one,  for  as  we  had 
not  very  far  to  go,  and  had  plenty  of  time 
in  which  to  accompHsh  our  journey,  we  in- 
dulged in  a  little  straggling  shooting  by  the 
way.  We  were  now  approaching  our  destina- 
tion for  the  evening,  and  perceiving  symptoms 
in  the  sky  of  a  coming  storm,  pushed  on  our 
horses  to  get  under  shelter  as  soon  as  possible. 
A  smart  trot,  however,  brought  us  speedily  up  . 
to  a  company  of  natives,  whom  we  soon  recog- 
nized as  our  guide  and  coohes.  They  had 
started  many  hours  before  us,  and  we  fondly 
anticipated  that  akeady  preparations  for  dinner 
were  far  advanced.  The  cause  of  their  deten- 
tion was  speedily  made  apparent  to  us  in  the 
huge  footmarks  of  an  elephant  which  appeared 
to  have  recently  passed  along  the  road  in  the 
same  direction  as  that  in  which  we  were  travel- 
hng.  There  were  numerous  indications  around, 
to  prove  that  it  was  a  rogue  elephant,  and 
hence  their  alarm  and  hesitation.  One  who 
has  not  witnessed  it  can  scarcely  have  an  idea 


224  WILD   ELEPH-YXT. 

of  the  dread  with  which  a  native  of  Ceylon  is 
affected  when  under  the  impression  that  a 
rogue  elephant  is  in  his  vicinity. 

A  herd  of  wild  elephants  is  comparatively 
harmless,  and  I  have  frequently  passed  within 
a  short  distance  of  them  unmolested.  On 
horseback  the  sohtary  traveller  is  perfectly  safe, 
though  he  may  accidentally  find  himself  in  the 
middle  of  a  herd;  and  even  the  pedestrian 
runs  little  chance  of  molestation  under  similar 
circumstances  ;  but  with  a  rogue  the  case  is 
altogether  different.  Why  this  particular  de- 
signation was  applied  to  them  I  never  could 
discover,  it  being  quite  inadequate  to  convey  any 
idea  of  the  mad  and  savage  fuiy  of  the  animal. 
The  "  rogue "  appears  to  be  one  banished, 
for  some  misdemeanour  probably,  from  his 
herd — generally,  but  not  invariably,  a  male — 
and  from  that  moment  devoting  himself  to  the 
slaughter  of  all  animal  hfe  and  the  destruction 
of  all  property  tliat  comes  within  his  reach. 
Hence,  whilst  the  natives  have  little  dread  of 
travelling  on  a  road  on  which  the  footmarks  of 
numerous  elephants  are  apparent,  they  are 
almost  paralyzed  by  fear  when  they  find  the 
recent  traces  of  a  solitary  wild  prowler  on  their 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  ATTACK.         225 

path.  To  a  European  these  traces  would  pro- 
bably never  be  perceptible.  He  might  travel 
across  them  for  days,  and  never  observe  them  ; 
but  to  the  quick  eye  of  the  natives  the  huge 
footmark  is  at  once  apparent ;  the  direction  in 
which  the  animal  travels  is  discovered  in  a 
moment,  and  indications  at  once  sought  to 
ascertain  the  fact  of  its  being  alone  or  in 
company — a  rogue  or  tame. 

The  halting  of  our  coolies  was,  therefore,  at 
once  accounted  for,  although  they  had  no  hesi- 
tation to  advance  with  us,  feeling  safe  in  our 
horses  and  rifles.  Even  a  rogue  elephant  will 
scarcely  attack  a  man  on  horseback,  unless 
wounded  or  greatly  enraged,  such  is  the  natural 
antipathy  between  his  species  and  that  of  the 
horse- — an  antipathy  wliich  is  quite  reciprocal. 
Having  carefully  loaded  our  rifles  with  zinc 
bullets — the  lead  being  often  too  soft  for  the 
forehead  of  the  elephant — we  proceeded  with 
increased  alacrity,  neither  Hofer  nor  myself 
displeased  at  the  prospect  of  an  adventure. 
Having  judiciously  made  all  necessary  dispo- 
sitions and  arrangements  in  case  of  an  attack, 
and  determined  on  our  line  of  conduct,  we  pur- 
sued the  train  of  thought  until  we  were  can- 
vassing what  was  to  be  done  with  the  monster's 

L  3 


226  DIXNER   DELAYED. 

tusks  after  he  had  fallen,  when  the  huge  foot- 
steps branched  off  from  our  path  deep  mto  the 
jungle,  whither,  at  that  late  hour,  it  would 
have  been  madness  to  pm'sue  our  intended 
antagonist.  Our  guide  was  certain  that  we 
had  not  seen  the  last  of  him,  declaring  that  he 
had  only  left  the  road  to  skht  the  village, 
which  we  were  approaching,  and  that  we 
should  probably  hear  or  see  more  of  him  next 
day. 

Nothing  particularl}^  interesting  occurred  at 
the  little  village  where  we  passed  the  night, 
save  that  our  good  humour  was  not  increased 
by  the  delay  which  attended  the  preparations 
for  dinner — a  delay  occasioned  by  the  stoppage 
of  the  coohes  on  their  road,  but  which,  to  our 
astonishment  and  indignation,  we  found  was 
increased  by  Poonchy's  determination  to  have 
his  own  dinner  before  he  provided  us  with  ours 
— liis  only  excuse  being,  that  such  was  always 
"  black  man's  custom." 

Next  morning  we  departed  in  excellent 
spirits,  more  anxious  than  ever  for  a  glimpse 
at,  and  an  encounter  with,  our  disturber  of  the 
previous  evening.  Nor  were  om*  wishes  vain. 
The  coohes,  with  our  guide,  had  as  usual  gone 
on  ahead  in  the  morning,  and  we  were  waging 


SHOOTING  A   DEER,  227 

a  desultory  warfare  against  the  few  jackals  and 
hares  which  we  occasionally  met,  when  a  re- 
markahly  fine  spotted  deer  crossed  our  path, 
and  rushed  into  the  adjoining  forest.  Our 
horses  were  fresh,  the  forest  was  open,  and 
neither  of  us  could  resist  the  temptation  of 
dashing  after  it,  for  it  had  appeared,  and  disap- 
peared so  rapidly  as  to  prevent  our  having  a 
shot.  Five  minutes  hard  riding  brought  us  to 
the  foot  of  a  hUl,  comparatively  destitute  of 
vegetation ;  up  which,  straight  before  us,  the 
deer,  which  was  a  large  noble  one,  was  rapidly 
fleeing.  We  pulled  our  horses  up  on  a  spot 
commanding  a  full  view  of  the  entire  hill  side, 
our  i-ifles,  loaded  with  ball  in  both  barrels, 
being  in  our  hands.  Hofer  fired  as  he  sat, 
whilst  I,  less  confident  of  my  horse's  steadiness, 
jumped  from  his  back,  and  fired  somewhat 
more  leisurelj'-.  The  animal  received  both 
balls — one  in  his  foot,  the  other  close  to  the 
spine- — and,  staggering  on  a  few  paces,  fell 
dead  under-  a  magnificent  mangoe  tree.  Our 
grooms  were  speedily  at  our  heels,  and,  in  com- 
pany with  them,  we  ascended  the  hill,  near  the 
summit  of  which  the  deer  had  fallen,  at  once 
to  inspect  our  prize  and  to  obtain  a  view  of  the 
surrounding  country.     The  animal  was  a  beau- 


228  ATTACK   OF   THE   ELEPHANT. 

tiful  specimen  of  the  class  to  which  he  belonged 
— large  in  size,  comparatively  speaking,  that 
is,  about  the  size  of  a  full-grown  goat,  and 
covered  with  the  most  variegated  and  lovely 
variety  of  spots  upon  his  glossy  coat.  As  we 
were  not  likely  to  have  anything  better  for 
dinner  at  Ratnapoora,  we  resolved  to  have  liim 
conveyed  there,  and,  for  that  purpose,  ordered 
the  grooms  to  carry  him  to  the  nearest  station, 
where  two  extra  cooHes  could  be  pressed  into 
our  service. 

This  matter  concluded,  we  leisurely  skirted 
the  hills,  proceeding  towards  the  summit,  and 
advancing  in  the  same  direction  as  the  road 
which  wound  round  its  base.  From  our  new 
position  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  country 
around.  Tlie  coolies  were  just  visible  at  a 
considerable  distance  a-head,  fear  or  laziness 
evidently  preventing  them  from  advancing 
with  any  rapidity.  We  were  on  the  point  of 
mounting  to  resume  our  journey,  when  Hofer 
called  my  attention  to  a  strange  commotion  in 
the  jungle  at  a  httle  distance  from  the  cooUes, 
who  were  tlyiug  from  it  in  all  directions.  In 
another  moment  we  saw  a  large  tusk  elephant 
emerging  from  the  thicket,  and  making  directly 
i'or  the  little  part}^ 


DISMAY   OF   THE   NATIVES.  i2d 

A  more  formidable  tiling  than  a  charge  from 
an  enraged  elephant,  can  scarcely  l»e  imagined. 
His  trunk  elevated  in  the  air,  whilst  he 
trumpets  forth  loudly  his  rage  or  hatred,  he 
shuffles  his  huge  carcase  along  at  a  pace  more 
rapid  than  any  one  would  conceive  possible 
when  regarding  the  unwieldy  bulk  of  the 
animal  alone.  The  bushes  bend  before  liim  as 
he  advances — the  branches  of  the  trees  snap 
off  with  sharp,  rapid  reports — the  animals  in 
the  neigbouring  jungle,  alarmed  at  the  danger, 
hoot,  whoop,  scream,  cry,  bellow,  and  roar  to 
the  utmost,  in  alarm  or  in  anger,  and  the 
whole  welkin  rings  with  the  commotion. 

Our  baggage  was  of  course  flung  down  in  all 
directions  by  the  coohes  as  they  made  for  the 
nearest  trees.  The  elephant  paused  for  a 
moment  over  the  articles  strewed  in  his  way, 
but  only  for  a  moment,  and  hurhng  a  port- 
manteau high  into  the  air,  advanced  as  before, 
bellowing  madly.  The  natives  are,  of  course, 
expert  climbers,  so  that,  ere  he  approached,  all 
the  coolies  had  made  their  way  into  the  trees, 
and  appeared  to  be  perfectly  safe — all  but  one, 
who  had  still  a  leg  within  reach  of  the 
monster's  trunk  when  he  approached  the  tree 
in  which  the  unfortunate  man,  paralyzed  by 


230  COOLIE   KILIiED   BY 

fear,  no  doubt,  was  climbing.  To  tbe  others 
who  siuTOTiiided  him,  and  to  us  from  the  Ijrow 
of  the  neigbouring  hill,  it  appeared  that  the 
man  was  sufficiently  high  in  the  tree  to  prevent 
Ills  being  caught  and  dragged  down  by  the 
infiuiated  animal.  Wliether  he  was  so  caught, 
however,  or  was  only  struck  and  fell  through 
excessive  fear,  certain  it  is  we  saw  him  fall 
backwards  on  the  uplifted  head  of  the  ele- 
phant !  In  a  moment  the  body  of  the  unfor- 
tunate man  was  whirling  high  in  the  air,  and 
at  length  descended  with  a  frightful  thump 
upon  the  ground,  only  to  be  trampled  imme- 
diately afterwards  into  a  shapeless  mass  ! 

His  success  in  tliis  mstance,  which  was  all 
the  work  of  a  moment  or  two,  appeared  but  to 
increase  the  savage  fury  of  the  monster.  He 
rushed  at  the  tree  nearest  to  him,  into  which 
two  of  the  httle  band  had  climbed,  his  broad 
forehead  coming  with  thundering  force  upon 
the  ti'unk,  and  shaking  it  m  every  twig — he 
stiiick  and  dug  at  it  with  Ms  tusks — he  grasped 
it  Avith  his  trunk — retreated  to  a  httle  distance 
and  made  another  assault  with  his  broad,  heavy 
forehead,  butting,  as  a  ram  would  do  against 
an  antagonist — again  was  the  tree  shaken, 
every  leaf  quivering  violently,  but  no  sign  of 


THE   DTFURIATED  ANIMAL.  231 

tumbling  about  it,  a  slight  list  to  one  side  was 
the  only  percej)tible  result  —  its  occupants 
holding  on  for  life  all  the  time,  and  shouting 
violently  in  the  extremity  of  their  fear,  or  in 
the  vain  hope  of  frightening  the  animal  away. 

Wliilst  all  tliis  was  proceeding  we  were 
reloading  the  discharged  barrels  of  our  rifles, 
and,  having  mounted,  drew  ofl"  the  attention  of 
the  elephant  from  the  cooHes,  by  shouting,  as 
we  awaited  him  on  om-  vantage  ground,  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill.  No  sooner  did  the  enemy 
perceive  us  than  he  turned  away  from  the  tree, 
which  he  seemed  intent  on  bringing  down,  and 
made  directly  for  the  spot  on  which  we  were 
drawn  up  ready  to  receive  him — our  grooms 
having  climbed  high  into  the  largest  tree  in 
om'  vicinity.  We  were  aware  that  firing  at 
random,  or  at  any  great  distance,  was  useless, 
and  that  our  only  chance  of  bringing  him  down 
lay  in  the  accuracy  of  our  aim  and  his 
proximity  when  we  fixed.  We  therefore 
awaited  his  approach  with  what  calmness  we 
could.  Before  the  elephant  had  come  within 
range,  however,  *'  Uncle  Toby,"  my  excellent 
steed,  took  fright  at  the  dreadtul  pictm-e  before 
him,  and,  starting  off,  bore  me,  with  frightful 
rapidity,  down  the  steepest  part  of  the  hiU's 


232  SUCCESSFUL   FIRE. 

side.  Wliat  became  of  Hofer  I  did  not  then 
know,  althougli  I  heard  the  clear  ring  of  his 
rifle  behind  me  as  I  was  borne  triumphantly 
down  the  bank.  His  horse,  as  I  subsequently 
learned,  had  behaved  admirably  well,  never 
swerving  in  the  least  until  he  had  fired.  His 
ball,  we  afterwards  discovered,  had  entered  the 
left  eye,  and  must  have  given  excruciating 
pain,  but  was  not  fatal.  Hofer  then  wheeled 
round  his  horse,  and  followed  me  down  the 
dechvity,  aware  that  the  elephant,  from  the 
great  weight  of  its  head,  is  unable  to  go  down 
a  steep  hill  with  any  rapidity.  There  was  this 
difference,  however,  between  us,  that  wliilst 
Uncle  Toby  had  the  bit  clenched  in  his  teeth 
and  was  perfectly  unmanageable  from  excessive 
fear,  Hofer' s  horse  was  completely  in  hand, 
and  he  could  do  with  him  w^hat  he  pleased. 
The  elephant  laboured  after  us,  blood  streaming 
from  his  eye,  and  liis  whole  appearance  indi- 
cating excessive  fury  and  intense  pain.  When 
I  had  now  nearly  reached  the  base  of  the  hill — 
our  enemy  having  been  left  far  behind — my 
horse,  in  his  wild  gallop,  threw  his  fore-legs 
into  a  httle  swamp,  where  they  sank  deeply. 
I  was  thrown  far  away  over  his  head,  whilst 
he  rolled  helplessly  on  his  side.     I  was  not 


DEATH   OF  THE   ELEPHANT.  233 

hurt,  but  the  loss  of  a  moment  might  have 
been  the  loss  of  my  life,  so,  jumping  up,  I 
grasped  my  rifle  more  firmly  than  ever,  and 
stood  upon  the  defensive.  A  moment  of 
intense  interest  to  both  of  us  succeeded — life 
or  death  hmig  upon  the  issue,  for  the  elephant, 
having  witnessed  the  accident,  left  the  pursuit 
of  Hofer,  and  directed  his  steps  towards  me. 
There  might  have  been  time  to  climb  into  a 
tree,  but  I  did  not  make  the  attempt — my 
whole  mind  being  on  fire  with  the  earnest 
desire  to  bring  down  the  monster.  Hofer, 
seeing  what  had  happened,  drew  up  his  horse 
on  the  hill's  side — the  elephant,  still  ad- 
vancmg,  soon  came  in  a  line  with  him,  his  left, 
and  now  blind  side,  being  turned  towards  him. 
Seeing  that  he  was  not  observed,  Hofer  dis- 
mounted, and  proceeded  to  take  aim  imme- 
diately behind  the  shoulder-blade,  as  the 
animal  laboured  heavily  along.  Precisely  at 
the  moment  when  I  discharged  both  barrels 
full  into  the  broad  forehead,  Hofer's  ball  pene- 
trated liis  side.  A  momentary  check  to  the 
animal's  progress  seemed  the  only  result  of 
this  double  fire  at  the  instant — he  advanced 
twenty  paces  or  so  further,  and  then  fell  head- 
long to  the  earth,  turning   over  gradually  on 


234  NERVOUS  EXCITEMENT. 

his  right  side,  and  beating  the  ground  ineffec- 
tually ^vith  his  trunk.  Uncle  Toby  had  only 
just  left  tlie  spot  a  few  minutes  before  to 
scamper  ^dldly  away  on  the  road  that  we  had 
come,  where  the  elephant  now  lay  extended 
before  us,  an  occasional  conTulsive  twitch  of 
one  of  his  legs  or  of  his  trunk  the  only 
failing  symptoms  of  life.  The  huge  mass  of 
his  body  stood  higher  than  my  chest  as  he  lay 
thus  helplessly  where  he  had  fallen,  making 
an  occasional  but  ineffectual  effort  to  hft  his 
head  off  the  marsh  in  which  it  was  half  im- 
bedded. 

IMost  people,  I  beHeve,  feel  danger  affect  the 
nei^es  to  the  greatest  degree  after  it  has 
passed.  I  am  sm^e  it  was  so  with  me.  When 
the  enormous  brute  was  charging  rapidly  down 
the  hill,  when  there  seemed  no  chance  of  escape 
by  flight,  and  the  slightest  accident  might 
have  been  death — under  these  circumstances 
my  nerves  were  so  strung  to  their  greatest 
tension  that  there  was  no  agitation.  I  was  as 
able  then  to  take  advantage  of  the  slightest 
turn  in  my  favour,  as  if  our  sport  had  been 
most  harmless,  and  we  had  been  hunting  a 
hare  instead  of  an  elephant.  But  now  that 
the  peril  was  past,  now  that  the  body  of  the 


TALES  OF   TILE  NATIVES.  235 

huge  animal  lay  extended  before  me  in  all  the 
impotence  of  death,  a  sense  of  the  danger  I 
had  been  in  rushed  'upon  me  with  redoubled 
force,  and  I  was  amazingly  agitated. 

It  may  be  easily  unagined  with  what  plea- 
sure we  added  the  tusks  to  our  trophies,  and 
with  what  self-gratulation  and  laudation  we 
Hstened  calmly  to  the  tales  which  Poonchy 
had  collected  or  invented  of  the  numerous  de- 
predations made  in  the  neighbourhood  by  our 
slaughtered  foe — of  the  lives  lost,  of  the  planta- 
tions destroyed,  the  trees  uprooted,  the  terror 
inspired,  and  the  dangers  to  which  travellers 
were  exposed — all  done  or  caused,  according 
to  Poonchy's  account,  by  the  animal  of  which 
we  had  just  rid  the  country.  Nor,  strange 
to  say,  although  at  other  times  we  regarded 
Poonchy  as  an  unconscionable  bar,  did  we 
perceive  at  the  moment  anything  absurd  or 
unlikely  in  his  assertions — nay,  we  were  quite 
wining  "for  that  occasion  only,"  to  swallow 
all  he  gave  us,  however  hard  the  pabulum 
might  subsequently  prove  of  digestion. 

At  Eatnapoora  we  were  obhged  to  leave  our 
horses — Uncle  Toby  having  been  recovered 
only  after  great  labour  and  a  day's  loss — as 
the  rest  of  our  journey  was  to  be  performed  on 


236  RATIS'APOORA. 

foot.  Tlie  principal  dangers  wliicli  we  antici- 
pated for  the  future  were  swollen  torrents, 
precipitous  rocks,  and  the  stoppage  of  the  pro- 
vision supplies,  by  the  accidents  to  which  the 
coolies  were  as  liable  amongst  the  mountains 
as  ourselves.  We  were  now  at  the  base  of  the 
extraordinary  mountain  hallowed  by  the  super- 
stitions of  so  many  different  races  and  religions, 
and  as  its  vast  sides  and  conical  top  were  made 
more  apparent  by  our  proximity,  and  were 
better  defined  to  the  gaze,  the  desire  to  attain 
tlie  summit  became  all  the  stronger  and  more 
intense.  No  village  can  be  more  pictm-esquely 
situated  than  Eatnapoora,  "  the  city  of  dia- 
monds," as  the  name  imports.  Built  on  irre- 
gular hilly  ground,  sloping  down  on  one  side 
to  a  fine  river,  the  Kalany,  and  on  the  other 
into  an  extensive  valley,  of  which  there  is  an 
excellent  view  from  almost  every  portion  of  the 
town,  it  is  itself  in  a  very  amphitheatre  of 
mountains,  large  and  small.  Its  principal 
height  crowned  by  an  old  fort,  long  since 
deserted  by  the  mihtaiy,  and  handed  over  to 
the  district  judge  for  a  court,  and  to  the  mis- 
sionaries for  a  chapel — there  is  something 
venerable  about  its  character,  at  the  same  time 
that  the  extreme  beauty  of  its  situation  makes 


CROSSING   THE   KALAXY.  237 

that  in  it  remarkable  and  interesting  which 
elsewhere,  perhaps,  would  be  common-place  or 
even  ngly. 

.  Unfortunately  the  day  after  our  arrival  at 
Eatnapoora  was  a  very  Avet  one,  and  the  con- 
sequence was  that  every  little  stream  on  our 
road  was  considerably  swollen.  The  first  we 
crossed  was  the  Kalany  Eiver,  that  which 
flows  into  the  sea,  near  Colombo,  and  we  found 
it  in  one  part  of  the  ford,  near  the  left 
bank,  much  deeper  than  we  had  anticipated. 
Wading  tlirough  the  water  was  the  onlj 
method  of  crossing  available,  and,  for  some  time 
after  we  had  left  the  Eatnapoora  side,  it  was 
shallow  enough,  although  raging  rapidly  on, 
and  covered  with  white  foam.  When  we  came 
into  the  deepest  part  of  the  bed,  however,  it 
was  with  difficulty  that  we  could  keep  our 
long  sticks  fixed  at  the  bottom  of  the  stream 
to  serve  as  a  support  and  assistance ;  such  was 
the  violence  with  which  the  stream  rushed  on. 
Our  coolies  managed  to  support  each  other 
across  with  admirable  tact — their  bundles  slung 
on  bamboos  raised  on  their  heads,  each  bamboo 
being  carried  on  the  heads  of  two  men,  one  at 
each  end.  We  were  obliged  to  put  up  for  the 
night  in  a  miserable  shed,  at  a  wild  place  called 


23S  IXCONVEXIENCES  CAUSED   BY 

Ginnemallee,  and  as  it  rained  during  tlie  night 
wo  were  plentifully  bedewed,  tlirough  oui'  half- 
thatched  roof,  whilst,  from  the  open  sides,  the 
fine  rain  heat  in  too  copiously  for  our  comfort. 
Nor  did  the  next  day's  traveUing  make 
amends  for  the  discomfort  of  the  preceding 
night's  lodging.  "We  had  no  sooner  set  out 
than  we  found  ourselves  assailed  on  all  sides 
by  one  of  the  greatest  plagues  in  Ceylon — the 
leeches.  The  previous  rain  had  moistened  the 
soil  and  brought  them  out  in  hundreds  on  our 
path.  Every  portion  of  the  ground,  nay  even 
the  vegetation  was  ahve  with  them — they  were 
to  be  seen  leaping  from  the  stones  or  dried 
branches  in  every  direction,  fidl  of  life  and 
vigour.  Few  who  have  not  practically  ex- 
perienced it  can  have  any  idea  of  the  annoy- 
ance caused  by  these  disgusting  reptiles.  The 
le^ch-craiters,  made  of  closelv-woven  cotton- 
clotli,  and  tied  over  the  pantaloons  at  the  knee, 
defend  the  feet  from  their  assaults — without 
these,  the  legs  would  be  covered  with  them, 
for  they  will  penetrate  any  ordinary  description 
of  stocking,  and  find  their  way  above  and  be- 
neath any  ordinary  boot.  But  on  the  entire 
distance  between  Grinnemallee  and  Pallabatula, 
the  last-inliabited  district  on  the  ascent,  they 


THE   NTJMEEOUS   LEECHES.  239 

abounded,  not  on  the  ground  only,  as  is  usual 
in  tlie  coffee  estate,  but  on  the  bushes  and 
branches  of  the  trees,  so  that  as  we  brushed 
past  them  in  the  narrow  jungle  path,  we  were 
literally  covered  with  tlie  blood-thirsty  vermin. 
At  every  little  bungalow,  by  the  road-side  at 
wliich  we  stopped,  we  were  obliged  to  make  a 
general  inspection  of  our  persons  to  rid  them 
of  the  enemy — nor  was  this  inspection  a  plea- 
sant operation,  seeing  that  it  had  thrice  to  be 
made  in  the  presence  of  a  miscellaneous  crowd 
of  men,  women,  and  children,  who  pertina- 
ciously maintained  their  positions  around  the 
open  sheds,  dignified  on  the  ascent  with  the 
name  of  "  bungalows,"  and  in  which  we  di- 
vested ourselves  'of  om*  clothing  and  engaged 
in  the  disagreeable  search.  However,  it  was 
necessary  to  do  so  and  there  was  no  help  for  it ; 
if  the  female  portion  of  the  population  in  the 
wild  recesses  of  Adam's  Peak  were  lost  to  de- 
cency, it  was  not  our  fault. 

Often  did  we  discover  six  or  eight  of  the 
leeches  forming  a  radiated  circle  around  a 
single  point,  like  the  spokes  of  a  miniature 
wheel,  all  filling  amazingly  at  oiu*  expense — 
at  first,  thin  as  fine  threads,  but  gradually  dis- 
tending till   the  swollen  body  could  scarcely 


240  BITE   OF  THE   LEECH.    . 

remain  attached  by  the  head.  Nor  was  the 
detaching  of  them  so  simple  a  matter  as  many 
would  suppose.  To  have  pulled  them  off  might 
have  produced  sores,  and  caused  a  considerable 
flow  of  blood  from  the  wound  for  a  time  ;  we 
were  obhged  to  sprinkle  salt  upon  them,  before 
they  would  voluntarily  rehnquish  their  hold, 
and  not  even  then  without  giving  a  sharp 
twitch  to  the  sufferer.  Their  first  bite,  on 
attaching  themselves  to  the  skin,  was  imper- 
ceptible, so  insinuatingly  was  the  proboscis 
introduced,  so  that  the  indi^'idual,  honoured 
by  their  attentions,  was  not  aware  of  the  at- 
tack until  the  cold  clammy  body,  distended 
almost  to  bursting,  rolled  about  heavily  on 
the  skin.  It  is  a  consolation  to  know  that 
they  do  sometimes  burst  themselves  outright, 
as  I  have  been  informed,  although  I  vv'iis  never 
a  witness  of  the  fact. 

It  was  with  delight  we  found  that  the  so- 
called  "  rest-house,"  at  Pallabatida,  the  last 
inhabited  station  on  the  ascent,  was  surrounded 
by  a  sandy  gravel  which  precluded  the  leeches 
from  making  their  way  into  it,  and  that  but 
one  more  search  for  them  under  our  clothes 
was  required  to  render  us  free  from  this  plague 
for  a  time.     Having  refreshed  ourselves  after 


1 


A  day's  rest.  241 

our  fatigue  by  a  luxurious  loll  and  a  dinner  of 
rice  and  fowl  curry,  the  best  that  the  culinary 
talent  of  Poonchy  could  supply,  to  which  some 
slices  of  ham  and  some  bottles  of  Allsopp  gave 
the  necessary  European  character  to  render  it 
satisfactory,  we  determined  to  recruit  our 
strength  and  spirits  by  a  day's  rest  to  prepare 
us  for  the  more  arduous  task  which  still  awaited 
us,  Poonchy  having  kindly  informed  us  that  the 
road  yet  to  be  travelled,  was  "  plenty  more 
bad  "  than  that  which  we  had  come. 

A  wihara,  at  Pallabatula,  contains  the  cover 
of  the  sacred  footstep  on  the  summit,  placed 
there  during  the  period  of  pilgrimage  by  the 
wily  priests  annually,  to  prevent  the  too  curious 
eyes  of  the  faitliful  from  discovering  what  a 
humbug  the  far-famed  foot-impression  is  in 
reality.  It  was  a  large  metal  Hd,  something 
of  the  shape  of  a  foot,  the  toes  being  distinctly 
marked  on  it,  the  whole  covered  over  in  a 
gaudy  extravagant  manner,  with  glass  diamonds 
and  gilded  ornaments,  more  ghttering  and 
glaring  than  beautiful.  The  scene,  as  we  sur- 
veyed this  cover,  was  one  well  suited  for  the 
artist.  In  the  large,  gloomy,  half-lighted 
temple,  the  monstrous  foot- cover  (five  feet 
long)    lay    upon   the    ground — two   priests  of 

VOL.  I.  M 


242  IMPRESSIVE   SCENE. 

Bucllia  on  one  side  with  yellow  robes,  bare 
heads,  and  shaven  crowns,  reverentially  look- 
ing down  upon  it  as  the  great  treasure  of  their 
temple,  and  an  honour  to  themselves  as  its 
guardians ;  at  the  other  end,  we,  the  two  Eu- 
ropeans, from  a  far-off  isle  of  North- Western 
Europe,  surveying  the  same  object  with  far 
different  thoughts  and  impressions  ;  whilst  a 
crowd  of  natives  gazed  in  through  the  open 
door,  obstructmg  the  little  light  which  gained 
admission  there,  and  regarding  the  whole  scene 
with  religious  awe.  Not  a  word  was  spoken — 
in  silence  the  priests  stood,  their  eyes  fixed  on 
the  sacred  covering — in  silence  we  stood  op- 
posite to  them,  struck  with  its  great  size,  and 
the  glitter  caused  in  the  obscurity  by  its  nu- 
merous ornaments — in  silence  the  people  with- 
out strained  their  necks  and  eyes  to  catch  a 
glimpse  of  it.  A  scene  like  that,  short  lived 
though  it  was,  lives  in  the  memory  with  a  ro- 
buster  life  than  a  thousand  incidents  of  a  more 
exciting  or  more  animated  character.  As  the 
period  of  pilgrimage  approaches,  this  covering 
is  conveyed,  with  great  ceremony,  to  the  sum- 
mit, where  it  remains  upon  the  foot-impression 
till  the  last  batch  of  pilgrims  has  departed. 
For  the  rest  of  the  jesn  it  is  kept  in  the  centre 


AN  UNTOWAED  ACCIDENT.  243 

of  the  largest  room  at  the  temple  of  PaUabatula 
in  gloom  and  silence — the  door  never  opened 
save  to  admit  a  noiseless  priest  to  dust  the 
apartment,  or  to  exhibit,  to  prying  tourists 
like  ourselves,  the  holy  treasure. 

The  same  day  that  we  inspected  the  cele- 
brated cover,  we  went  out  shooting,  to  provide 
a  few  birds  for  dinner,  and,  unfortunately  for 
the  success  of  our  expedition,  whilst  Hofer  was 
crossing  a  httle  ravine,  a  splinter  of  iron-wood 
penetrated  his  canvas  shoes  and  leech  gaiters, 
and  wounded  his  foot  so  severely,  that  he  was 
obliged  to  give  up  all  idea  of  making  his  way 
to  the  summit.  The  accident  was  not  of  so 
serious  a  character  as  to  excite  alarm  in  our 
minds  for  its  ultimate  consequences,  but  it  was 
evident  his  foot  required  rest  and  care  to  pre- 
vent inflammation,  and,  as  it  was  impossible  to 
have  him  carried  to  the  summit,  greatly  to  his 
mortification  and  my  disappointment,  it  was 
absolutely  necessary  for  me  to  proceed  alone, 
if  I  wished  to  reach  the  object  of  our  journey. 

The  following  morning,  therefore,  we  parted, 
I  taking  with  me  six  coolies  and  the  guide,  for 
the  conveyance  of  cold  ham,  bread,  cuiTy  and 
rice,  a  bottle  of  brandy,  some  beer,  and  such 
warm  clothes  as  I  was  likely  to  require,  not 

M  2 


244  DANGERS  OF 

forgetting  of  course  my  trusty  old  rifle  and 
ammunition.  Om'  road  lay  directly  up  the 
steep  side  of  a  bleak-looking  hill  that  towered 
far  above  the  puny  village ;  two  days  before  it 
had  been  the  bed  of  a  raging  torrent,  that  had 
swept  away  every  particle  of  mould  and  earth, 
leaving  nothing  but  the  huge  rocks,  bleak  and 
grim-looking,  jutting  forth  from  the  moun- 
tain's side,  whilst  the  thickest  jungle  grew  on 
either  hand,  and  was  often  so  interlaced  over 
our  heads  as  to  render  the  path  quite  dark. 
Climbing  up  this  "  road,"  for  it  could  not  be 
called  walldng,  was  laborious  in  the  extreme ; 
it  consisted  in  incessant  clambering  over  the 
smooth  time  and  water  worn  faces  of  the 
projecting  rocks,  sometimes  on  hands  and  feet, 
sometimes  by  the  aid  of  the  overhanging  or 
over- arching  boughs  above,  whilst  frequently 
this  very  vegetation  so  useful  at  one  time,  was 
the  cause  of  our  greatest  difficulties  at  another ; 
the  interlacing  foliage  being  often  so  near  the 
hill-side  as  to  prevent  our  progressing,  until 
we  had  cut  or  torn  away  a  portion  of  it.  I 
now  discovered  why  the  wary  Poonchy  had  in- 
sisted upon  each  coolie  having  the  smallest 
possible  load,  for  it  was  not  long  before  we  all 
exhibited  signs  of  great  fatigue,  and  I  began 


THE   ASCENT.  245 

to  fear  that  the  coohes  might  give  up  in 
despair.  In  addition  to  the  difficulties  of  the 
way  which  I  have  enumerated,  it  must  be 
remembered  that  we  were  constantly  exposed 
to  the  danger  of  meeting  with  wild  animals, 
and  had  we  so  encountered  a  herd  of  elephants 
for  instance,  coming  down  the  mountain  in 
single  file,  I  know  not  what  we  should  have 
done,  or  how  indeed  we  could  escape  destruc- 
tion at  all,  unless  we  succeeded  in  driving  them 
from  our  path.  As  we  proceeded  the  coohes 
and  guide  kept  constantly  shouting  out  at  the 
highest  pitch  of  their  voices,  in  the  hope  of 
scaring  elephants,  leopards,  bears,  and  wolves 
away ;  especially  those  in  the  rear,  whose 
shouts  were  ever  the  loudest  and  shrillest,  for 
those  in  front  had  some  confidence  in  my  rifle, 
and  as  I  never  lost  sight  of  them  whilst  I 
clambered  on,  they  felt  comparatively  safe. 
St.  Pierre,  I  thought,  might  have  taken  tliis 
ascent  to  Deabetme  instead  of  the  black  moun- 
tain of  Bember,  as  an  illustration  of  misfor- 
tune. "  Misfortune  is  hke  the  black  mountain 
of  Bember,"  says  he,  "  at  the  extremity  of  the 
glowing  kingdom  of  Lahore,  whilst  you  are 
mounting  you  see  nothing  before  you  but 
sterile  rocks,  but  when  you  have  attained  the 


246  EXCESSIVE   FATIGUE. 

summit  you  see  the  sky  over  your  liead  and 
the  kingdom  of  Cashmere  at  your  feet."  Bem- 
ber  cannot  be  worse  than  Adam's  Peak,  and  I 
am  siu'e  that  the  skies  and  valleys  of  Ceylon 
will  bear  comparison  with  those  of  Cashmere. 

Two  hours  of  this  excessive  fatigue  brought 
us  to  a  small  empty  bungalow,  only  four  miles 
from  Pallabatula,  situated  on  a  little  level 
plain  that  lay  directly  in  our  way.  A  herd  of 
wild  elephants  were  amusing  themselves  on 
this  plain.  I  did  not  ventm^e  to  distiu'b  them 
for  two  reasons,  first  I  was  very  tired,  and 
secondly,  I  was  afraid  of  another  hfe  paying 
the  forfeit  of  our  curiosity.  Wlien  we  had 
occupied  the  bungalow,  and  the  guide  was 
busy  with  the  preparation  of  breakfast,  they 
slowly  left  the  plain  one  after  the  other,  as 
if  recognizing  our  superior  right  to  occupy  it. 
Before  breakfast  was  ready,  I  had  fallen  into  a 
sound  sleep,  so  overcome  was  I  with  the 
fatigue  of  the  morning's  travel,  and  very 
shortly  after  the  meal  had  been  dispatched, 
and  I  had  refreshed  myself  with  a  contem- 
plative cheroot,  I  was  again  "  in  the  arms  of 
Mm-phy,"*  (as  Paddy  poetically  expressed  it.) 

Before   four  o'clock    in   the   afternoon   our 

*  Anglice— Morpheus. 


FIRST  VIEW   OF   THE   SUJIMIT. 


247 


journey  was  resumed  on  a  road  of  a  precisely 
similar  description  to  tliat  we  had  traversed 
in  the  morning — Poonchy  having  kindly  in- 
formed me  that  we  were  now  in  the  district 
most  noted  for  leopards.  A  wilder  region,  I 
fancy,  could  scarcely  be  found  in  nature.  Steep 
after  steep  of  rocky  acclivities  was  to  be  sm*- 
mounted.  To  om'  right,  at  no  very  considerable 
distance,  rose  the  mysterious  Peak  itself,  wliilst 
on  its  summit  could  be  faintly  discerned  the 
wooden  temple  wdiich  Budhistic  piety  had 
long  ages  before  erected  over  the  sacred  foot- 
impression.  Like  a  child's  Swiss  cottage,  or  a 
fairy -like  toy,  did  the  elegant  httle  structure 
appear,  as  we  got  a  ghmpse  of  it  occasionally 
through  some  natural  clearing  in  the  woods. 
Behind  us,  spread  out  a  large  jungle-filled 
valley,  over  which  the  clouds  and  their  sha- 
dows chased  each  other  as  a  gleam  of  the  sun 
occasionally  broke  through  the  gloom  around. 
Many  a  cloud  did  we  see  floating  near  us,  some 
above,  some  beneath,  for  we  were  now  at  an 
altitude  of  between  four  and  five  thousand  feet, 
and  the  nimbi  were  numerous  in  our  vicinity. 
Here  all  was  nature  in  her  wild,  rude,  ele- 
mental simplicity,  no  trace  of  man  or  of  his 
works  within  our  utmost  ken,  save  the  baby- 


248         UNCOMFORTABLE  QUARTERS. 

like  temple  perched  on  tlie  extreme  summit; 
even  the  very  road  itself  was  scooped  out  of  the 
eternal  liill's  side  by  torrents  ! 

Tliree  miles  of  this  travelling,  occupying 
fully  two  hours,  brought  us  to  Deabetme, 
where  a  stone  bungalow,  without  doors,  which 
owed  its  erection  to  the  piety  and  benevolence 
of  some  early  king,  received  us.  Here  we  were 
obliged  to  take  up  our  quarters  for  the  night, 
and  more  miserable  and  thorouglily  comfort- 
less quarters  could  not  well  be  found  in  Ceylon 
or  out  of  it.  Both  Poonchy  and  the  coolies 
were  anxious  to  push  on,  regarding  the  station 
as  unlucky ;  but  as  there  was  no  better  bun- 
galow to  be  met  with  as  far  as  the  summit,  I 
overruled  their  objections.  The  house  which 
we  occupied  was  situated  in  the  centre  of  a 
small  piece  of  cleared  land,  encompassed  by 
thick  jungle,  which  descended  steeply  on  three 
sides,  and  on  the  fourth  spread  out  into  a  small 
irregular  plain,  through  wliich  the  road  wound 
to  an  adjoining  ravine.  Wlien  we  reached  the 
station,  heavy  masses  of  black  clouds  were 
forming  round  the  hill  on  all  sides  of  us.  We 
were  in  the  very  centre  of  the  rain- cloud,  and 
everything  about  us  was  damp,  cold,  and  com- 
fortless.   The  loud  "  hoo-hoo  "  of  a  large  species 


UNCOMFORTABLE  QUARTERS.        249 

of  monkey  might  be  distinctly  heard  in  our 
vicinity ;  occasionally  the  growl  of  a  leopard 
would  reach  our  ears,  shrill,  sharp,  and  threat- 
ening ;  whilst  more  frequently  the  call  of  the 
elephant  would  boom  forth  from  the  surround- 
ing jungle.  These  were  the  great  guns  amongst 
the  incessant  small-arms'  fire  of  birds  and 
jackals. 

So  dense  was  the  watery  vapour  around,  that 
all  om-  efibrts  to  kindle  a  fire  were  unsuccessful. 
Poonchy's  fiint  and  steel  were  useless,  as,  not- 
withstanding his  most  strenuous  exertions,  the 
tinder  would  not  catch  the  spark.  I  speedily 
secured  a  light  by  means  of  a  httle  gunpowder ; 
but  a  light  was  not  sufficient.  An  old  newspaper 
would  bm-n  at  Deabetme  as  elsewhere,  because  it 
had  been  in  my  pocket  previously ;  but  the  wood 
seemed  to  have  lost  its  combustible  properties 
completely.  So  saturated  was  every  tiling  w4th 
the  enveloping  mist,  that  dried  leaves  smoked 
only,  and  the  wood  followed  their  example ; 
but  no  bright  cheerful  blaze  could  be  extracted 
from  either,  nor  was  it  possible  to  warm  either 
the  provisions  or  ourselves  by  means  of  the 
smoke,  however  dense.  We  had  not  taken  any 
wood  with  us,  it  being  usual  for  parties  stop- 
ping in  these  sheds  to  leave  a  few  boughs  behind 

M  3 


250        UNCOMFORTABLE  QUARTERS, 

them  for  their  successors,  after 'they  have  used 
all  the  store  which  they  find  in  them.  The 
firewood  was  there,  and  the  fire  obtainable ;  but 
after  using  large  quantities  of  gunpowder  and 
paper  to  no  purpose,  we  were  obliged  to  give 
up  the  attempt  in  despair.  I  looked  upon  our 
want  of  success  as  a  matter  that  bore  solely 
upon  our  dinner ;  but  Poonchy  insisted  upon  it 
that  our  safety  was  at  stake  as  well,  for  that, 
in  our  doorless  edifice,  the  only  security  we 
could  have,  during  the  long  hours  of  darkness, 
against  snakes,  bears,  leopards,  or  even  a  rogue 
elephant,  was  a  bright  fire — an  object  which, 
when  blazing  in  the  darkness,  eiffectually  scares 
away  the  most  daring  of  them. 

The  prospect  of  passing  the  night,  therefore, 
as  we  were,  was  a  miserable  one  enough,  to  say 
notliing  of  the  danger ;  and,  however  good  cold 
ham  and  bread  and  beer  may  be  in  their  proper 
places,  one  feels  that,  with  the  air  around  satu- 
rated with  moisture,  the  seats  and  clothing 
wet,  the  wind  cold  and  raw,  they  are  decidedly 
out  of  place.  Yet  pass  the  night  there  we 
must,  for  darkness  had  already  set  in,  and  it 
would  have  been  madness  to  have  attempted  to 
travel  in  either  direction  under  those  cu'cum- 
stances. 


UNCOIVIFORTABLE  QUARTERS.  251 

Nothing  remained  but  to  make  the  best  dis- 
positions we  could  for  the  night.  To  block  up 
the  numerous  doorways  was  impossible,  for  we 
had  nothing  with  wliich  to  do  so  ;  and,  as  we 
examined  our  involuntary  lodging  more  care- 
fully, we  found  abundant  evidence  that  the 
place  was  frequently  visited  by  wild  animals. 
In  one  corner  I  discovered  a  heap  of  bones, 
one  of  wliich  was  so  remarkably  hke  a  human 
thigh-bone,  that  the  very  handling  of  it  gave 
me  an  uncomfortable  creeping  feeling,  as  if  I 
already  felt  by  anticipation  the  gnawing  of  a 
leopard,  pohshing  off  my  own.  I  fancy  it  must 
have  originally  belonged  to  a  monkey :  but  at 
the  time  I  certainly  thought  it  was  part  of  a 
human  skeleton,  and  with  that  pleasant  con- 
viction I  laid  myself  down  for  the  night. 

The  coolies  crowded  into  a  corner,  and  lay 
there  huddled  together,  wet  and  shivering.  I 
put  my  rifle  at  my  head,  leaning  against  the 
wall,  and  kept  a  good  substantial  walking-stick, 
which  had  considerably  aided  my  ascent,  by 
my  side,  to  be  used  in  case  the  rifle  hung  fire, 
wliich,  from  the  state  of  the  atmosphere,  was 
but  too  Hkely  to  take  place.  My  couch  con- 
sisted of  a  number  of  spHt  bamboos,  interlaced 
together  by  strong  creepers   taken   from   the 


252  UNCOMFORTABLE    QUARTERS. 

jungle,  the  whole  supported,  as  usual,  upon 
four  posts  stuck  into  the  damp  floor.  Suppose 
an  ordinary  table,  with  a  number  of  sharp 
grooves  running  lengthways  from  end  to  end,  a 
multitude  of  cords  bound  round  it,  and  plenty 
of  water  sprinkled  over  it,  recently  wiped  off, 
and  you  have  a  tolerably  accurate  idea  of  my 
couch.  On  my  person,  wrapped  up  in  a  warm 
plaid,  I  kept  my  ammunition,  and,  thus  pre- 
pared, lay  down,  not  to  sleep,  but  to  wait  for 
the  morning. 

It  was  almost  as  dark  a  night  as  ever  brooded 
over  the  heavens.  Not  a  star  could  be  seen  in 
the  deep  blackness  that  enveloped  us  on  every 
side.  Opposite  to  the  bamboo  couch  on  which 
I  lay,  half-reclining,  half-sitting,  was  a  small 
hole  in  the  wall  wliich  fronted  me,  evidently 
intended,  originally,  for  a  window;  there  was 
scarcely  light  enough  abroad  to  enable  me  to 
distinguish  this  aperture  at  all.  When  I  had 
lain  down,  it  was,  of  course,  with  the  intention 
of  not  sleeping — indeed,  I  had  slept  so  much 
after  the  severe  fatigue  of  the  morning  that  I 
had  but  httle  desire  for  it.  In  order  to  aid  me, 
however,  in  keeping  my  resolution,  I  placed  my 
brandy-bottle  on  the  ground,  at  the  head  of  my 
couch,  having  filled  it  with  water,  so  as  to  make 


NIGHT   ALARM.  253 

very  stiff  grog  of  the  contents.  But,  notwith- 
standing all  the  sleep  I  had  had  the  previous 
day ;  notwithstanding  the  energy  thrown  into 
me  by  the  contents  of  the  bottle ;  notwith- 
standing the  dangerous  position  I  was  in,  I 
found  myself  soon  nodding  at  the  little  window 
opposite.  Five  or  six  times  had  I  roused  my- 
self, and  endeavoured  to  shake  off  the  sleepy 
god,  who  was  fast  seizing  upon  me,  and  as  I 
did  so,  at  long  intervals,  I  found  that  the  little 
window  was  each  time  becoming  more  and  more 
distinct,  and  that  the  stars  were  beginning  to 
make  their  way  through  the  thick  blackness 
without.  At  length  I  dozed  off  into  a  half- 
waking,  half-sleeping  condition,  in  which  I 
must  have  continued  for  some  time — that  state 
in  which  the  soul  does  not  wholly  resign  her 
office,  but  performs  it  somewhat  heavily. 

I  was  aroused  from  my  lethargy  by  a 
scraping,  stealthy,  crawHng  sort  of  sound  in  my 
vicinity.  It  was  evidently  produced  by  some 
animal  on  the  ground — I  had  little  doubt  at  the 
moment  that  it  was  a  leopard,  or  one  of  those 
horrid  brown  bears,  of  which  I  had  heard  so 
much,  and  I  began  to  think  that  a  second  life 
would  be  lost  in  this  ill-fated  expedition.  I 
could  not  at  first  determine  from  the  sound  in 


254  NIGHT   ALARM. 

what  direction  the  animal  was  proceeding,  but 
I  concluded,  after  a  little,  that  he  was  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  coolies,  and  from  their 
heavy  breathing,  I  further  concluded  that  they 
were  asleep.  If  one  of  the  party  was  to  lose 
his  life,  I  certainly  should  have  preferred  one 
of  the  coohes  being  the  individual  to  myself. 
My  hand  was  on  my  rifle,  but  to  fire  into  the 
corner  would  have  been  madness,  to  shout  out 
and  wake  them,  useless  or  worse,  for  the  ani- 
mal might  then  feel  himself  called  on  to  attack 
— so  I  awaited,  with  what  coolness  I  might,  the 
result.  Slowly  and  stealthily,  I  heard  the  ani- 
mal, with  great  distinctness,  crawling  from  the 
coohe-quarter  in  the  direction  of  the  little 
window  opposite  me.  A  thousand  thoughts 
flashed  rapidly  through  my  mind  as  I  listened, 
with  every  nerve  strung  to  its  utmost  tension, 
to  the  sound,  peering  eagerly,  but  fruitlessly, 
into  the  gloom  within  the  building.  At 
length  he  neared  the  aperture  opposite,  and, 
as  he  passed  it,  a  sudden  jerk  upwards  threw 
his  head  full  into  my  field  of  vision,  that  is, 
the  window.  It  was  not  the  head  of  a  leopard, 
nor  of  a  bear,  nor  of  a  monkey,  though  to  this 
last  it  bore  most  resemblance,  but  the  head  of 
a   man,   and,   of  course,    of  one    of  my  own 


PILFERING   COOLIE.  255 

coolies,  for  there  were  no  other  human  beings 
nearer  than  Pallabatula,  seven  miles  distant. 
EeHnquishing  the  grasp  of  my  rifle,  I  seized 
my  walking-stick  noiselessly,  and  awaited  the 
result,  as  yet  perfectly  ignorant  of  the  fellow's 
intentions,  and  unable,  indeed,  to  form  any 
rational  prognostication  of  them.  The  cer- 
tainty that  it  was  a  man,  and,  besides,  only  a 
Singhalese !  was  a  great  relief,  and  I  breathed 
more  freely.  It  must  be  remembered  that  all 
this  time  the  usual  nocturnal  din  of  the  jungle 
was  going  on  outside  with  unabated  fury,  and 
yet  so  strangely  were  the  nerves  affected,  that 
every  movement  in  the  bungalow  was  perfectly 
distinct  to  my  ears. 

I  followed  the  man's  motions  as  if  by  instinct, 
as  he  slowly  and  stealthily  crawled  round  my 
couch,  and  it  was  not  till  I  heard  the  shaking 
of  the  fluid  in  my  brandy-bottle,  that  I  became 
aware  of  his  intentions.  I  brought  my  stick 
down  heavily  upon  his  back  at  the  moment, 
uttering  some  exclamation  as  I  did  so.  He 
roared  out  lustily,  and,  miserahile  dictu,  let  fall 
the  bottle.  His  cry,  loud  and  piercing,  awoke 
his  brethren.  They,  doubtless,  fancying  a 
dozen  rogue  elephants  were  upon  them,  shouted 
as  loudly  in  chorus — the  whole  bungalow  rung 


256  TUMULTUOUS   SCENE. 

witli  cries  as  they  still  huddled  closely  together, 
their  fears,  probably,  increased  a  thousand  fold 
by  finding  one  of  their  number  absent.  He, 
for  his  part,  lay  where  he  had  fallen,  still  crying 
as  if  a  wild  beast  were  devouring  him.  I 
shouted  out,  I  spoke  in  English  and  in  Sing- 
halese, I  reasoned,  I  intreated,  demanded,  nay, 
I  verily  beHeve,  I  swore  at  them ;  but,  for  a 
time,  without  avail.  Those  in  the  corner  evi- 
dently thought  their  companion  was  aheady  a 
meal  for  some  one,  and  he  who  lay  near  my 
couch  probably  conceived  that  I  was  threaten- 
ing him  for  the  loss  I  had  sustained.  At 
length  he  made  his  way  to  his  fellows ;  they 
shrieked  distractedly  as  he  touched  them ;  but, 
after  a  little,  the  tumult  subsided,  and  I  was 
heard.  I  explained  to  Poonchy  (whose  voice 
had  been  clearly  and  distinctly  recognisable 
througrhout  the  entire  commotion  as  one  of  the 
loudest  of  the  shouters),  the  cause  of  the  scene, 
and  he,  with  many  contemptuous  allusions  to 
their  cowardice,  explained  the  matter  to  them. 
The  moon  was  now  rising  over  the  top  of  the 
peak — the  vapoury  cloud  had  passed  away — our 
bungalow  was  soon  full  of  hght — we  tried  the 
firewood  again,  and,  after  some  trouble,  succeeded 
in  obtaining  a  blaze,  under  the  genial  influence 


ASCENT   OF   THE   MOUNTAIN.  257 

of  which  we  all  slept  soundly  tiH  the  morning ; 
visions  of  the  broken  brandy-bottle,  as  it  lay 
scattered  over  the  ground  beside  my  couch,  the 
precious  liquid  all  spilt,  alone  troubled  my  re- 
pose. 

The  journey  of  the  ensuing  morning  did  not 
greatly  differ  from  that  of  the  preceding  day, 
save  that  it  was  of  a  more  varied  character.  In 
some  places  we  were  descending  for  a  short 
time,  instead  of  ascending — at  others,  we  were 
obhged  to  clamber  over  the  faces  of  almost  per- 
pendicular rocks  of  great  altitude.  One  of  these 
rocks  is  between  fifty  and  sixty  feet  high,  and 
its  ascent  would  be  impossible,  were  it  not  for 
steps  which  some  of  the  early  kings  caused  to  be 
cut  over  the  entire  face.  At  length  I  stood  at 
the  foot  of  the  extraordinary  cone  which  forms 
the  summit  of  the  mountain.  It  rises  from  the 
surrounding  range  like  a  huge  sugar-loaf,  two 
hundred  feet  high — rocky,  and  bleak,  and  stern, 
with  a  few  hardy  and  stunted  plants  of  temper- 
ate climates  chnging  to  its  sides.  The  air  was 
dehghtfuUy  cool  and  refreshing  —  the  view 
around  was  magnificent,  and,  right  in  front  of 
us,  as  we  eat  our  morning's  meal  on  a  Httle 
grassy  plot,  by  the  side  of  a  brawHng  stream, 
rose  the  mass  of  rock,  on  the  top  of  which, 


258  DANGERS  OF 

almost  a  point,  the  holy  footstep  is  imprinted, 
surmounted  by  the  picturesque  little  temple 
— ^the  same  mass  that  we  had  seen  and  gazed 
upon  with  such  interest  at  sea,  in  Galle,  in 
Colombo  ;  everywhere  in  the  island  in  fact.  I 
felt  dehghted  at  the  prospect  of  satisfying  my 
curiosity  at  length,  and  even  looked  benevo- 
lently upon  the  coolie  through  whom  I  had 
lost  my  brandy ! 

The  ascent  of  this  cone  is  by  no  means  easy. 
The  steepness  of  the  sides  and  the  force  with 
which  the  wind  whistles  round  it,  at  a  height 
approaching  to  eight  thousand  feet,  are  sufficient 
in  themselves  to  render  it  anything  but  an  easy 
matter  to  make  one's  way  to  the  top,  and  were 
it  not  for  the  chains  which  are  hung  in  some 
places  to  facihtate  the  ascent  of  the  pilgrims,  it 
would  be  both  difhcult  and  dangerous.  The 
road  winds  up  the  western  side  in  a  zig-zag 
direction,  like  a  strung  series  of  Z's,  consisting 
of  a  narrow  pathway,  formed  partly  by  jutting 
rocks,  and  partly  by  incisions  in  the  mountain's 
sides.  The  scrubby  European-looking  vegeta- 
tion affords  the  adventurous  traveller  a  hold 
occasionally  as  he  passes  some  parts  of  miusual 
difficulty,  whilst  in  others,  the  vegetation  shuts 
him  in  completely,  and  he  clambers  along  up  a 


THE   ASCENT,  259 

kind  of  ravine.  In  three  or  four  places  a 
smooth  rock  is  to  he  ascended,  which  would  be 
a  matter  of  no  little  difficulty,  if  not  altogether 
impossible,  were  it  not  for  the  chains  I  have 
mentioned,  which  are  firmly  rivetted  into  the 
rocks  above,  and  let  down  over  the  ascent ; 
even  with  these,  however,  strength  and  agility 
are  both  requh'ed  to  get  up  securely  and  un- 
assisted. The  loss  of  his  hold,  or  an  awkward 
slip,  would  precipitate  the  traveller  or  pilgrim 
into  eternity.  Even  women,  it  is  said,  annually 
ascend  the  Peak,  in  compliance  with  the  dic- 
tates of  rehgious  enthusiasm,  and  there  is 
scarcely  a  dangerous  spot  in  the  ascent,  of 
which  the  guide  will  not  be  able  to  tell  you  some 
story  connected  with  the  loss  of  human  life, 
usually  females.  The  year  in  which  our  guide 
had  previously  ascended,  the  second  before  our 
expedition,  two  unfortunate  female  pilgrims 
had  been  blown  over  the  side  of  the  hill  at  one 
of  those  frightful  corners  on  the  road,  where  a 
square  foot  of  rock  alone  preserves  the  traveller 
from  destruction.  On  looking  into  the  abyss 
below,  I  could  discern  a  fragment  of  cloth 
waving  on  the  gnarled  stem  of  an  oak-hke  bush, 
far,  far,  beneath  us. 

At  length  I  stepped  forth  from  a  little  en- 


260  ARRIVAL   AT   THE   SUMMIT. 

trance  in  the  small  wall,  built  round  the  hal- 
lowed precincts  of  the  foot-impression.  I  was 
on  the  very  summit  of  Adam's  Peak,  and,  in 
my  joy  and  triumph,  I  saluted  the  holy  locality 
with  a  hearty  "  hurrah  !" 

The  wall  which  had  been  built  round  the 
summit  is  about  three  feet  high,  and  confines  a 
quantity  of  earth,  forming  a  pathway  round 
the  huge  rock  in  the  centre,  over  which  the 
little  temple  is  built.  The  temple  itself  con- 
sists merely  of  a  picturesque  roof,  Chinese  look- 
ing, supported  on  strong  wooden  pillars,  and 
preserved  from  being  blow^n  down  by  massive 
iron  chains  inserted  into  the  rocks  around,  re- 
minding one  of  the  cords  from  the  top  of  a 
tent  pole.  On  the  eastern  side  the  pathway  is 
extensive  enough  to  admit  of  a  small  bungalow 
having  been  erected,  in  which  the  priests  reside 
during  the  period  of  pilgrimage.  Here  of 
course  we  took  up  our  quarters,  and  I  then 
proceeded  to  examine  the  great  object  of  re- 
verence, to  adore  which  the  enthusiastic  natives 
encounter  so  many  dangers.  The  sacred  foot- 
step is  emphatically  a  humbug — a  humbug  of 
humbugs  in  fact.  I  had  expected  to  find  it 
something  approaching  a  humbug,  but  not  so 
egregious  a  one,  as  it  proved  to  be.      All  that 


ITS  TEMPERATUKE.  261 

exists  naturally  in  the  rock,  is  two  oval  cavities, 
about  two  feet  from  each  other,  one  of  which 
some  ^dvid  Eastern  imagination  conjured  into  a 
heel,  the  other  into  the  impression  of  the  ball 
of  the  foot — aU  the  rest  is  evidently  artificial — ■ 
too  evidently  to  leave  the  shadow  of  a  doubt  on 
the  subject  in  the  beholder's  mind — the  toes 
indeed  are  made  with  coarse  Hme  or  chunam, 
and,  were  it  not  for  a  border  of  the  same,  the 
outhne  of  a  foot  would  never  be  recognized. 
The  extreme  length  of  this  "  faint  exaggera- 
tion of  a  footstep,"  as  it  has  been  happily 
called,  is  five  feet  three  inches,  its  breadth  vary- 
ing from  two  feet  five  to  two  feet  nine  inches. 

Nothing  could  be  more  bracing  and  delight- 
ful than  the  temperature  at  this  great  altitude. 
I  felt  it  cold  of  course,  but  the  thermometer, 
which  I  carried  with  me,  did  not  descend  lower 
than  47°  during  the  day  and  night  I  was  on 
the  summit — a  sufficient  contrast  from  the 
80°  and  90°  I  had  been  lately  experiencing  in 
Colombo.  The  coolies,  having  first  devoutly 
worshipped  towards  the  "  sri-pada,"  or  holy 
footstep,  but  mthout  venturing  to  examine  it 
too  closely,  next  proceeded  to  kindle  a  fire,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  a  cheerful  blaze  shone  tlu'ough 
the  thatched  walls  of  the  little  priest's  bunga- 


262  MAGNIFICENT  SUNRISE. 

low.  The  natives  were  not  accustomed  to  use 
a  fire  for  warmth,  and,  as  they  crouched  before 
it,  they  found  doubtless  to  their  annoyance  that 
it  did  not  warm  their  backs  equally  with  the 
fronts  of  their  bodies,  and  in  order  to  secure  a 
little  of  the  genial  heat  for  all,  to  my  surprise, 
on  entering,  Avhen  I  had  finished  my  examina- 
tion of  the  summit,  I  found  them  gyrating 
on  their  heels,  like  so  many  monkeys  being 
roasted. 

The  night  passed  away  without  any  incident 
of  importance,  and  next  morning  I  witnessed  a 
scene  Avliich  fully  repaid  me  for  all  my  previous 
toils — the  rising  of  the  sun.  It  was  certainly 
the  most  magnificent  sight  I  have  ever  wit- 
nessed. When  I  rose  in  the  morning  all  was 
black  below,  nothing  whatever  could  be  distin- 
guished, except  a  few  streaks  of  hght  in  the 
East.  Gradually  the  rays  shot  fmtlier  and 
further  over  the  sky,  and  at  length,  standing 
in  the  foot-impression,  on  the  highest  pinnacle 
of  the  summit,  I  could  discern  a  small  portion 
of  the  sun  himself  Still  everything  around 
and  beneath  was  dark — the  sky  alone  glowing 
with  light,  but  all  l^elow  like  a  vast  black  ocean 
of  the  most  forbidding  character.  At  length  a 
hill  in  our  vicinity  Avas  touched  by  the  rays, 


MAGNIFICENT  SUNEISE.  263 

and  there,  in  the  gloom,  it  shone  and  glistened 
like  a  piece  of  burnished  gold  in  a  sea  of  pitch. 
Another  and  another  mountain  top  caught  the 
glow  and  stood  prominently  forth,  shining  gor- 
geously in  the  surrounding  darkness.  And  so 
it  went  on — the  shining  islands  ever  increasing 
in  size  and  becoming  more  numerous  until 
nothing  remained  dark  but  the  valleys  between 
the  highest  hills,  whilst  the  various  tints  of  the 
clouds  that  hmig  on  the  mountain  sides  added 
a  pecuhar  charm  to  the  landscape.  I  could  at 
length  discover  the  Indian  ocean  to  the  west 
and  south,  and  more  than  half  the  island  was 
laid  open,  as  in  a  vast  panorama,  to  my  inspec- 
tion. To  witness  the  rising  of  the  sun  from 
the  summit  of  Adam's  Peak,  is  a  sight  worth 
living  and  toihng  for,  and  once  witnessed,  can 
never  be  forgotten — the  impression,  vivid 
almost  as  the  reality,  will  live  in  the  memory, 
however  far  we  may  be  removed  from  the 
mountain  in  distance,  or  from  the  scene  itself 
by  time. 

In  the  vast  landscape  that  was  thus  spread 
out  before  me  standing  on  that  solitary  cone,  a 
mile  and  a-half  in  perpendicular  height,  from 
the  level  of  the  sea,  I  was  particularly  struck 
by  the  absence  of  any  trace  of  man.     Not  a 


264  VIEW   FROM   THE    SUMMIT. 

single  object  which  I  could  discern  around  or 
below  recalled  him  or  his  works — all  was 
nature  in  its  highest  and  grandest  sense.  The 
thick  forests  that  filled  the  valleys ;  the  rocks, 
massive,  bleak,  and  stern,  that  marked  the  hills' 
sides  ;  the  rivers  or  streams  winding  Hke  threads 
of  silver  through  the  green  or  brown  beneath ; 
the  clouds  white,  grey,  and  black,  that  dotted 
the  landscape  here  and  there — all  was  nature, 
and  nature  only,  without  being  interfered  with 
or  marred  by  man.  The  scene  reminded  me 
of  an  eloquent  passage  in  Jouffroy's  works,  in 
which  he  says  : — "  In  the  bosom  of  cities,  man 
appears  to  be  the  principal  concern  of  creation ; 
his  apparent  superiority  is  there  most  signally 
displayed ;  he  there  seems  to  preside  over  the 
theatre  of  the  world,  or  rather  to  occupy  it 
himself.  But  when  this  being,  so  haughty,  so 
powerful,  so  absorbed  by  his  own  interests  in 
the  crowds  of  cities,  and  in  the  midst  of  his 
fellows,  chances  to  be  brought  into  a  vast  and 
majestic  scene  of  nature  in  view  of  the  illimit- 
able firmament,  surrounded  by  the  works  of 
creation,  which  overwhelm  him,  if  not  by  their 
intelligence  at  least  by  their  magnitude ;  when 
from  the  summit  of  a  mountain,  or  under  the 
light  of  the  stars,  he  beholds  petty  callages, 


RETURN  TO   RATNAPOORA,  265 

lost  in  forests,  which  themselves  are  lost  in  the 
extent  of  the  prospect,  and  reflects  that  these 
villages  are  inhabited  by  frail  and  imperfect 
beings  like  himself;  when  he  compares  these 
beings  and  their  abodes  with  the  magnificent 
spectacle  of  external  nature  :  when  he  compares 
this  with  the  world,  on  whose  surface  it  is  but 
a  point,  and  this  world,  in  its  turn,  with  the 
myriads  of  worlds  that  are  suspended  above 
him,  and  before  which  it  is  nothing — in  the 
presence  of  such  a  spectacle,  he  views  with  pity 
the  miserable  conflicting  passions  of  his  fellow- 
man." 

On  returning  to  Pallabatula  I  found  Hofer 
anxiously  awaiting  me.  He  had  prepared  a 
chair  for  himself,  in  which  he  was  to  be  carried 
back  to  Eatnapoora — two  bamboos  being  merely 
attached  to  it,  one  at  each  side  of  the  seat,  and 
thus  he  hoped  to  make  the  journey,  hoisted  on 
the  shoulders  of  four  coolies.  The  coolies  were 
reHeved  every  mile  or  so,  and  a  dozen  of  them 
contrived  to  carry  him  safely,  though  slowly, 
along,  so  that  we  arrived  at  Eatnapoora,  where 
our  horses  awaited  us,  without  accident. 


VOL.  I. 


206  IDLE   SEASON. 


CHAPTEE  VIII. 

A  PLANTER'S  PARTY. 

"  Which  is  the  villain?  Let  me  see  his  eyes ; 
That  when  I  note  another  man  like  him, 
I  may  avoid  him." 

3Iuch  Ado  About  Nothing,  act  v.,  sc,  L 

Notwithstanding  the  great  distances  of  the 
various  plantations  from  each  other,  the  reunions 
of  their  owners  and  managers  were  common 
and  frequent.  In  the  idle  season  of  the  year 
Europeans  were  to  be  seen  riding  about  in  all 
directions  througli  the  miserable  native  paths, 
over  districts  wliich,  anywhere  else,  would  be 
declared  impassable  for  horses.  But  no  district 
was  regarded  as  of  this  description  in  Ceylon, 
save  the  ascent  of  the  Peak.  Some  would  be 
encountered  making  their  way  to  Colombo,  for 
supplies  of  provisions  or  money  ;  some  on  the 
road  to  Kand}- ;  others  going  to  visit  a  friend,  or 
to  spend  a  week  on  the  table-land  in  the  south 


i 


EXTENSION   OF   COFFEE   CULTIVATION.  267 

east,  called  Newera  Ellia — a  delightful  retreat 
amongst  the  mountains  from  the  heat  and 
monotony  of  the  plains.  Between  1843  and 
1847  the  cultivation  of  coffee  was  so  rapidly  ex- 
tending on  the  island,  as  to  promise  the  hap- 
piest results  from  the  large  influx  of  Europeans 
and  of  European  capital. 

Many  estates  were  opened  only  to  be  sold 
again  as  soon  as  they  came  into  bearing,  to 
some  one  of  the  many  capitalists  who  deter- 
mined on  embarking  their  money  in  the  specu- 
lation, and  in  this  way  perhaps,  there  was  more 
profit  made  than  in  any  other.  Wlien  a  piece 
of  land  judiciously  selected,  was  cleared  of 
forest  and  planted  with  coffee,  there  were  al- 
ways buyers  to  be  found,  ready  to  give  a  much 
larger  sum  for  the  infant  estate  than  it  had  cost 
— men,  for  the  most  part,  quite  ignorant  of  the 
details  of  cultivation  themselves,  and  who  pre- 
ferred trusting  the  judgment  of  others,  whom 
tliey  supposed  to  know  something  of  the  matter. 
The  risks  attending  the  culture  of  the  shrub 
ai'e  considerable,  and  it  is  not,  therefore,  to  be 
wondered  at  that  very  frequently  excellent  pro- 
perties were  thus  brought  into  the  market,  the 
owners  of  which  preferred  realizing  a  profit  at 
once  to  running  the  various  risks  of  bhghts, 

n2 


1 


26S  INJUEY   CAUSED   BY   KATS. 

coffee  bugs,  and  rats,  which  often  appeared  and 
disappeared  unaccountably. 

The  Parala  estate,  on  which  my  friend 
Fowler  was  situated  pretty  much  in  the  same 
way  as  I  on  the  one  which  I  managed,  that  is, 
as  superintendent  and  part  proprietor,  was 
nearly  twenty  miles  distant.  It  consisted  of 
five  hundred  acres  of  coffee,  and  about  one 
thousand  of  forest  land,  up  to  tliis  time  un- 
touched. It  was  a  flourishing  property,  al- 
though it  had  recently  been  attacked  by  the 
rats,  in  the  same  unaccountable  way  as  many 
other  estates  m  the  neighbourhood — the  vermin 
having  appeared  and  disappeared  without  any 
one  being  able  to  explain  either  where  they 
had  come  from,  or  whither  they  had  gone. 
However,  that  they  had  gone  was  certain,  and 
no  one  in  our  district  wished  for  their  return 
merely  that  the  scientific  mystery  should  be 
cleared  up.  By  nibbling  at  the  new  shoots  of 
the  stems  and  branches,  they  had  injui'ed 
thousands  of  plants  and  destroyed  several,  so 
that  we  were  quite  wilhng  to  rest  ignorant  of 
their  whereabouts,  rather  than  to  encounter 
them  again,  to  have  our  theories  on  the  subject 
confirmed  or  disproved. 

Notwithstanding  such  di'awbacks  as  these, 


BRIGHT   PROSPECTS.  269 

however,  Fowler's  estate,  like  most  others  in 
the  neighbourhood,  was  flourishing.  The  cul- 
tivation was  everywhere  extending,  and  the 
future  of  Ceylon  looked  bright  and  cheerful 
for  it  was  never  supposed  that  the  tariff",  on 
the  faith  of  which  all  this  outlay  was  made,  all 
this  capital  embarked,  would  be  suddenly,  and 
without  warning,  altered.  It  was  by  the  help 
of  the  protective  duties  on  colonial  produce 
alone  that  Ceylon  was  enabled  to  compete  with 
Brazil  and  Java,  and  the  anticipation  that 
those  duties  would  be  removed  had  probably 
not  entered  into  the  head  of  a  single  speculator 
in  Ceylon.  At  the  time  of  which  I  write  all 
was  bright  in  the  prospect,  and  there  can  be 
no  doubt  that  fifty  years  of  such  prosperity 
would  have  infused  the  new  life  and  vigour  of 
the  West  into  the  oriental  lethargy  of  the 
island.  The  trackless  forests  would  have  been 
reclaimed,  man  taking  the  place  of  the  wild 
beast.  Happy  homes  and  smihng  faces  would 
have  been  seen  where  now  the  elephant  and 
leopard  roam  undisturbed.  The  high  lands,  so 
admirably  adapted  to  the  Em'opean  constitu- 
tion, would  doubtless  be  the  homes  of  English 
farmers  and  gardeners,  and  Christian  hymns 
ascend  as  thank-offerings  from  Christian  hearts 


270  THE  planters'  life — 

ill  places  liitherto  trodden  only  by  the  wander- 
ing savages,  who,  under  the  name  of  Veddahs, 
lead  a  kind  of  wild-beast  life  in  the  forests  of 
Ceylon.  True,  there  is  little  prospect  at 
present  of  such  ultimate  results  sj)eedily  ap- 
pearing, but  then  I  saw  no  reason  to  doubt 
their  complete  reahzation. 

Under  such  circumstances,  with  increased 
facilities  for  rapid  communication  with  England, 
T  could  scarcely  picture  to  myself  a  happier  lot 
than  that  of  the  successful  planter,  living  upon 
and  working  his  own  estate,  with  his  family 
flourishing  around  him,  spending  the  cooler  por- 
tion of  the  year  with  them  on  his  own  propert}^, 
and  the  warmer  on  some  of  the  elevated  table- 
lands of  the  south-east.  But  we  were  only  the 
pioneers,  I  knew,  of  whose  labours  others  must 
reap  the  advantage  in  comfort  and  plenty,  and, 
as  things  were,  it  was  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that  most  married  men  should  feel  discontented 
with  their  Ceylon  life,  as  Hofer  evidently  soon 
began  to  feel,  but  I  doubted  not  tlien,  that  ulti- 
mately all  that  I  have  shadowed  forth,  and 
more,  would  be  accomplished. 

Nothing  could  be  more  various  than  the 
dress  and  appearance  of  us,  coffee-planters  in 
Ceylon.     Every  man's  clothes  were  cut  after 


THEIR   DRESS   AXD   APPEARANCE.  271 

his  own  fasliion ;  some  consulting  ease  and 
appearance,  but  the  majority  ease  alone,  in 
their  habiliments.  A  short  coat,  not  hkely  to 
impede  or  incommode  one  in  the  saddle  ;  a 
black  belt  to  support  the  pantaloons,  and  no 
waistcoat,  were  the  most  ordinary  forms  into 
which  planting  insouciance  moulded  its  clothes. 
But,  above  all,  were  we  distinguished  by  our 
dihgent  eschewing  of  the  ugly  black  European 
hat.  In  Colombo,  and  indeed  in  the  towns 
generally,  this  extraordinary  appendage,  so 
unsuited  to  a  tropical  climate,  still  maintained, 
and  doubtless  does  maintain,  its  place,  but  the 
race  of  planters  was  wiser  "than  to  incommode 
itself  by  any  such  absurdity.  The  substitutes 
for  it  were  as  various  as  the  tastes  of  the 
wearers,  and  the  ingenuity  of  the  workmen. 
Of  these  substitutes,  of  which  the  great 
majority  were  formed  of  pith,  some  resembled 
copper  boilers  reversed,  in  shape,  with  broad 
brims,  and  innumerable  air-holes  at  the  top ; 
others,  hehnet-fashioned,  had  a  peak  in  front 
and  a  wadded  apron  behind,  just  (as  far  as 
shape  is  concerned)  as  if  a  child's  pinafore  had 
been  tied  behind  upon  a  jockey's  cap,  the 
object  of  this  extraordinary  curtain  being  to 
defend  the  back  of  the  neck  from  the  sun ; 
others  projected  from  the  head  outrageously, 


272  STRIKING   CONTRASTS. 

caldron-fasliion,  as  if  the  unfortunate  individual 
had  fallen,  head  foremost,  into  a  whitewashed 
wooden  washing  basin,  and,  having  made  his 
way  half  through  it,  had  there  been  fixed 
immovably ;  whilst  not  a  few  recalled  to 
one's  mind  the  helmet  of  Mambrino  in  Don 
Quixote.  The  hirsute  faces,  for  I  need 
scarcely  say  that  few  of  us  took  the  trouble 
to  disfigure  ourselves  by  shaving — the  hirsute 
faces  and  strangely-equipped  figures  which  ap- 
peared under  these  extraordinary  head-cover- 
ings, formed  as  striking  a  contrast  as  can  well 
be  conceived,  with  what  the  same  individuals 
would  present  in  Eotten  Row  or  Regent  Street. 
Our  host  Fowler,  with  whom  Hofer  and 
myself  had  become  quite  intimate,  was  a 
superior  and  an  estimable  man,  disguising 
under  a  fierce,  bushy  black  beard,  of  the  most 
warhke  appearance,  great  amiability  and  bene- 
volence. His  acquaintance  Siggins,  from  a 
neighbouring  plantation,  was  a  strange  cha- 
racter, one  of  those  extraordinary  compounds 
who  affect  singularity  in  the  most  trivial 
matters,  and  who  seem  to  consider  it  a  suffi- 
cient reason  for  doing  anything,  that  no  one 
else  would  think  of  doing  so,  or,  for  leaving  it 
undone,  that  other  people  would  do  it.  His 
intensely  red  whiskers  and  moustaches   beau- 


A   NOSE. 


273 


tifully  harmonised  in  colom-  with  by  far  the 
most  prominent  and  peculiar  featm-e  of  his 
countenance — liis  nose;  in  shape  the  organ 
was  a  Brougham,  but  in  size  and  colour  it 
differed  materially  from  the  standard  of  the 
type,  projecting  and  peering  upwards  in  awful 
contrast  with  the  glistening  glasses  of  the 
spectacles  which  were  almost  constantly  above 
it.  Like  its  prototype  too,  Siggins'  remark- 
able nose  was  never  at  rest — ^at  one  time  the 
observer  might  suppose  it  was  holding  dis- 
course knowingly  with  one  eye,  at  another 
that  it  was  setting,  in  a  facial  quadrille,  to 
one  of  the  corners  of  the  mouth.  Now  it 
was  drooping,  with  melancholy  despondency 
over  the  fiery  moustache  and  ample  lips,  and, 
anon,  it  was  raised  twitchingly  aloft  as  if  in- 
ternally singing  an  "  lo  triumphe"  in  grati- 
tude for  some  recent  blessing — depressed  or 
elevated,  however,  in  converse  with  one  side 
or  the  other  of  the  mouth,  it  still  twitched 
convulsively  as  such  a  nose  only  could  twitch, 
its  colour  at  one  moment  scarcely  crimson, 
whilst  during  the  next  it  had  mounted  into 
an  ample  purple  that  threatened  the  precincts 
of  the  eyes  Avith  invasion.  Long  locks  of  light 
brown  hair,  straight  as  a  ship's  masts,  hung 

N  3 


274  bachelor's  party. 

over  Siggins'  coat  collar,  and  formed  an  agree- 
able contrast  with  the  glowing  face.  Imagine, 
reader,  such  a  head  mounted  to  a  height  of 
six  feet  two,  upon  an  ungainly  awkward  body, 
and  you  have  the  individual  daguerreotyped  in 
your  mind's  eye. 

Besides  these,  there  were  a  taciturn 
merchant  from  Colombo,  Mr.  Smith,  not  long 
settled  in  the  island,  and  an  officer  of  the 
Rifle-corps,  a  descendant  of  a  Dutch  family, 
Lieut.  Vanstrut,  who  was  justly  proud  of 
his  uniform,  which  he  would  not  part  with, 
even  in  the  jungle — juL^ly  proud  I  say  of 
his  uniform,  for  he  had  nothing  else  to  be 
proud  of.  He  happened  to  be  on  a  visit 
to  Fowler  at  the  time,  who  was  under  some 
obligations  to  his  family,  or  he  certainly 
would  not  have  been  a  member  of  a  convi^^al 
jungle  party. 

These  were  all  strangers  to  me,  and 
therefore  I  have  taken  the  trouble  to  say 
a  word  or  two  respecting  each ;  but,  be- 
sides these,  there  were  Mouat  and  Hofer — the 
latter  had  quite  recovered  fr'om  the  injury 
done  to  his  foot,  when  ascending  the  Peak.  I 
was  sorry  to  see  Hofer  there — not  that  I 
thought  married  men  should  eschew  bachelor's 


EEFLECTIONS.  275 

parties,    but   that  it  seemed  to  me  a  sort  of 
neglect   to   his    lonely  and  beautiful  wife,  to 
leave   her   thus    constantly  by  herself  in  tlie 
jungle — as  he  did  at  this  period  indeed,  but 
too   frequently.       A    childless  home  is,    alas ! 
likely  to  be  an  unhappy  one,  even  under  the 
most  favourable  circumstances,  how  much  more 
so  when  thus  isolated  in  the  midst  of  the  jungle  ! 
True  she  was  the  first,  as  I  had  seen,  to   urge 
him    to    seek   enjoyment    elsewhere  ;     always 
cheerful,  always  apparently  happy,  and  what 
between  her  household  duties,  her  studies,  her 
practice  of  painting  and  music,  and  her  benevo- 
lent journeys,  invariably  professing  her  perfect 
happiness  and  contentment,  whether  her  hus- 
band remained  with  her  or  not,  but  must  not  the 
quick  eye  of  love  have  speedily  discovered  what 
was  apparent  even  to  the  casual  glance   of  the 
stranger  ?     If  Fowler  and  I  could  perceive  and 
lament  that  he  was  now  fonder  of  absence  from 
home  than  he  had  been,  how  much  more  keenly 
must   she  have    felt   it  !     Who    shall   tell,    1 
thought,   as    I   rode  home  the  next  morning 
with  him,  how  many  bitter,   salt  tears  have 
coursed  each  other  down  her  cheeks  during  his 
absence  !  how  many  sighs  of  regret  have  burst 
from  that  heaving  bosom,  as  thoughts  of  home 
and   past   happiness   have   moved  the   heart ! 


270  REFLECTIONS. 

And  yet,  to  all  outward  seeming,  he  was  still 
the  same  affectionate  husband  he  had  been,  and 
the  few  with  whom  they  were  intimate,  but 
who  did  not  observe  them  so  closely  as  we  did, 
would,  probably,  nay  almost  certainly,  conclude 
that  a  happier,  more  loving,  more  contented 
couple  than  the  Hofers  did  not  exist.  How 
false  a  test  outward  seeming  is  of  real  happi- 
*ness !  How  small  a  portion  the  outward  vi- 
sible calamity  woman  has  to  bear,  forms  of  the 
sorrow  which  her  heart  mourns  over  !  How 
many  a  smiling  face,  particularly  in  her  case, 
hides  an  aching  heart !  How  fatal  a  blessing 
is  not  that  sensibility,  that  sentiment,  wliich 
forms  one  of  her  chief  charms,  and  constitutes 
frequently,  at  the  same  time,  her  greatest  source 
of  misery ! 

It  must  not  be  concluded  from  this  that 
Hofer  was  gloomy  and  his  wife  querulous. 
By  no  means !  He  was  still  hopeful,  full  of 
life,  and  joy,  and  vigour,  as  when  I  first  met 
him  in  Colombo.  He  still  paid  every  attention 
to  his  wife,  anticipated  her  wants  only  to  sup- 
ply them,  was  tender,  affectionate,  nay  loving  in 
his  manner,  and  she  before  him,  and  his  friends, 
and  all  the  world,  was  still  the  same  bright, 
cheerful,  beautiful  model  of  womanly  grace  and 
womanly  fondness  she  had  been,  when  we  tra- 


REFLECTIONS.  277 

veiled  together  from  Colombo.  But  he,  unfortu- 
nately, wanted  determination  and  a  strong  wiU, 
and,  as  a  necessary  consequence,  perseverance. 
Change  and  variety  were  cravings  of  his 
nature  which  he  had  not  learned  to  direct  or 
to  subdue.  New  schemes  and  new  plans  were 
ever  luring  him  on  to  short  bursts  of  exertion, 
and  to  him  the  greatest  of  evils  was  monotony 
and  uniformity.  One  would  have  fancied  that 
his  wanderings  over  the  world,  in  Europe,  in 
America,  in  Asia,  would  have  satisfied  this 
roving,  change-loving  disposition,  but  it  was 
not  so.  With  strong  intellect,  a  briUiant  ima- 
gination, and  a  cultivated  mind,  he  wanted 
that  resolute  will  which  is  necessary  to  success 
and  happiness — Tvithout  wliich,  indeed,  the 
most  shining  quahties  are  but  sources  of  incon- 
venience, nay,  possibly,  causes  of  unhappiness. 
Who  can  over-estimate  the  importance  of  this 
quality,  and  yet  how  shamefully  is  its  cultiva- 
tion neglected  in  our  youthful  studies  and 
training  ?  What  greater  enemy  can  man  have, 
as  an  individual  or  a  community,  than  a  rest- 
less, ever-acting  desire  of  change  ?  the  peevish- 
ness of  the  child  who  tires  of  one  toy  and 
cries  lor  another,  carried  into  the  important 
business  of  life  and  cankering  the  fair  buds 


278  LIFE    rx    THE   JUNGLE   CONTRASTED 

of  happiness  which  the  sunshine  of  home  and 
the  tender  gardening  of  woman,  cause  to 
flourish  so  luxuriantly  around  us.  The  gourd 
that  arrived  at  maturity  in  a  night  perished  in 
a  day,  as  Burke  somewhere  remarks,  but  the 
oak  that  will  last  for  centuries  takes  a  hundred 
years  of  patient  persevering  growth  to  arrive  at 
maturity. 

Let  me  turn,  however,  from  these  melan- 
choly reflections  to  what  I  intended  to  describe. 
Our  party  was  at  first  a  right  pleasant  and 
merry  one,  and  the  fare  of  the  best  that  the 
jungle  could  afibrd.  European  condiments 
here,  as  indeed  all  over  the  East,  amongst 
Englishmen,  being  the  most  highly  esteemed. 
A  good  ham,  or  a  fresh  cheese  giving  exquisite 
dehffht  to  men  who  would  seldom  taste  either 
the  one  or  the  other  at  home  perhaps,  whilst 
the  richest  curries  and  the  most  luscious  tropi- 
cal fruits,  were  despised  in  comparison.  I  have 
so  frequently  seen  this  the  case  in  India,  that  I 
at  length  ceased  to  wonder  at  it ;  yet  surely  it 
was  notable  !  The  very  difficulty  of  procuring 
the  most  ordinary  European  articles  of  food  in 
an  eatable  condition,  seemed  to  render  them 
luxuries  to  the  epicm'ean  palate,  whilst  tropical 
dainties,    that  would  infcdlibly  be  luxuries  in 


WITH   LIFE   IN   LONDON.  279 

England,  were  neglected  because  too  easily  ob- 
tained. A  type  this,  I  fear,  of  humanity  every, 
where.  The  blessing  which  costs  us  little  to 
reach,  either  of  exertion  or  of  wealth,  is  often 
thrown  aside  for  the  inferior  gratification  to 
which  a  difficulty  in  procuring  it  has  added  a 
zest. 

How^  many  are  there  not  in  London,  sur- 
rounded by  comforts  and  luxuries  of  the  most 
intensely  gratifying  character,  who  regard 
themselves  as  miserable  because  they  want 
some  trifle  which  they  cannot  obtain !  They 
take  up  their  '  Times '  daily,  and  receive  their 
letters  almost  every  hour,  without  ever  asking 
themselves  how  they  would  do  without  either 
for  weeks  together.  They  can  obtain  their 
dinners  in  every  street  almost,  and  sit  down  to 
them  grumbhng,  without  ever  reflecting  that 
the  planter  has  often  to  ride  twenty  miles,  and 
even  then  perhaps  finds  his  dinner  not  ready 
when  he  requires  it.  They  lounge  in  their  easy 
cliairs  before  a  grateful,  cheerful-looking  fire, 
with  a  magazine  or  a  review,  or  the  last  lion- 
ized book  of  the  season  in  their  hands,  without 
bestow^g  a  thought  on  the  grilling  to  which 
Anglo-Indians  are  exposed,  the  hosts  of  mus- 
quitoes  they  must  encounter,   or  the   snakes, 


280  MALABAR    VeTSUS 

scorpions,  and  centipedes  of  which  they  daily 
and  nightly,  stand,  and  walk,  and  sleep  in 
dread.  But  there  is  no  use  in  pursuing  the 
reflection ;  the  Londoner  is  doubtless  already 
blushing  at  his  ingratitude  so  I  shall  e'en 
spare  him. 

The  more  serious  business  of  the  dinner 
dispatched,  we  almost  naturally  fell  into  a 
conversation  about  coolies ;  a  comparison  be- 
tween the  Malabar  coohes  from  the  continent 
and  the  native  Kandians,  forming  a  point  for 
discussion.  All  were  willing  to  yield  the  palm 
to  the  Kandians  in  many  respects,  but  Hofer  and 
myself  alone  maintained  their  superior  honesty, 
which  the  others  were  inclined  to  doubt. 

"  I  think  the  Kandians  are  stronger  and 
work  more  like  men,"  said  Siggins,  the  nose 
rising  perceptibly  towards  the  forehead,  "  that 
is,  with  the  help  of  a  little  looking  after,  and 
occasionally  feeling  a  riding-whip  or  a  cane, 
but  although  the  Malabars  are  great  scoundrels 
and  thieves,  I  think  the  Kandians  are  greater." 

"  You  are  complimentary  to  them,"  said  I, 
looking  at  Fowler's  Kandian  servant,  who  was 
in  the  room  at  the  time,  and  who  perfectly 
understood  Enghsli,  but,  although  he  had  evi- 
dently listened  to  the  observation,  not  a  muscle 


KAXDIAN   COOLIES.  2S1 

on  his  countenance,  not  so  much  as  the  invo- 
luntary winking  of  his  eyes  showed  that  he 
had  heard  it. 

"  Why  I  take  care  not  to  let  them  have  their 
own  way,  and  they  soon  get  used  to  mine," 
answered  Siggins,  his  nasal  organ  effecting  a 
bend  sinister.  "Every  man  is  a  magistrate 
on  his  own  estate,  you  know,"  he  continued, 
"  and  therefore,  as  long  as  the  man  is  work- 
ing for  you,  you  have  a  right  to  do  what 
you  like  with  liim — that  is,  anything  short  of 
killing." 

"  A  new  doctrine,  truly,"  said  Mouat,  coming 
as  near  a  laugh  as  he  ever  permitted  himself, 
"  but  one  very  often  acted  upon,  I  beheve." 

"Always  acted  on  by  men  of  sense,  IVIr. 
Mouat,"  rejoined  Siggins.  "  How  are  you  or 
any  other  magistrate  to  know  what  goes  on 
on  my  estate,  for  instance  ?" 

"  Did  I  know  all  that  goes  on,  on  any  estate, 
even  on  my  benevolent  friend  Fowler's,  I  fear 
it  would  not  be  very  edifying — what  think 
you,  Hofer  ?"  asked  the  httle  magistrate. 

"I  quite  agree  with  you,"  rephed  Hofer, 
"  the  distinction  between  mea  and  tua  I  fear, 
is  Httle  recognized  on  these  bachelors'  estates, 
whatever  may  be  said  of  meum  and  tuiim." 


282  MALABAR   COOLIES 

"  That  it  sliould  be  all  mea  and  no  tua  would 
be  perhaps  Mr.  Siggins'  idea,"  said  Mouat 
again. 

"I  don't  remember  much  of  the  Latin  I 
learned  at  school,"  rejoined  Siggins,  the  nose 
waxing  purple  by  degrees,  "  but  I  think  I  can 
understand  what  you  mean.  I  go  by  this  rule 
— if  a  man  on  my  estate  tells  me  yes,  I  believe 
he  would  say  no  if  he  dare,  and  until  I  look 
and  discover,  or  find  out  the  truth  some  other 
way,  I  pay  no  attention  to  his  yes.  Now 
that  saves  a  great  deal  of  trouble." 

'*  You  never  believe  then  what  one  of  your 
labourers  says  ?"  I  asked. 

"Never,"  said  he,  "I  never  believe  what 
any  man  about  the  place  says  until  I  look  at  it, 
and  see  for  myself.  They  know  that  now, 
and  they  don't  venture  to  tell  me  the  bare- 
faced lies  they  used,  and  it  is  not  often  that  I 
find  any  opposition  made  to  anything  I  wish, 
but  when  I  do,  they  smart  for  it,  I  assure 
you." 

"  Very  extraordinary  this  in  an  Enghsh 
colony,"  said  Mr.  Smith. 

"  Siggins  understands  the  native  character," 
said  Vanstrut,  arranging  his  collar,  "  and  treats 
the  people  very  properly." 


THEIR  HEROISM.  283 

"I  cannot  say  I  approve  of  the  principle," 
said  Hofer,  "  but  really  it  is  very  hard  to  keep 
one's  temper  with  them  sometimes." 

"  Impossible,  Sir,  quite  impossible,"  said 
Siggins,  eagerly,  "they  are  worthless,  tho- 
roughly worthless — the  fear  of  the  whip  or 
the  cane  is  the  only  thing  that  rouses  them 
to  exertion." 

"  There  you  are  certainly  mistaken,  Mr.  Sig- 
gins," said  Fowler,  firmly,  "  men  who  travel 
hundreds  of  miles  on  foot,  through  the  most 
unfrequented  forests  and  jungles  in  order  to 
earn  their  bread  honestly  by  the  sweat  of  their 
brow,  are  not  thoroughly  worthless,  and  can 
evidently  be  di'iven  to  exertion  by  far  other 
motives  than  the  fear  of  the  lash." 

You  are  right,  Fowler,"  said  Hofer ;  "  in  that 
point  of  view  they  deserve  every  praise  and 
commendation — they  make  great  sacrifices  that 
they  may  carry  home  a  trifle  to  their  homes, 
and  instances  of  the  most  unselfish  and  noble 
devotion  are  frequent  amongst  them." 

"  It  was  but  in  the  last  gang  that  I  hired," 
said  Fowler,  "  that  a  wife  preferred  remaining 
behmd  to  perish  with  her  sick  husband  in  the 
depths  of  the  forest,  to  pushing  on  for  life  with 
the  gang." 


284 


CRUELTY. 


"Stuff!"  said  Siggins,  "all  sham,  every  bit 
of  it.  Just  you  try  kindness,  and  see  how 
you'll  get  on  with  your  work.  I  tried  it  when 
I  first  came  here,  five  years  ago,  and  I  got 
nothing  done,  I  promise  you." 

"Wliy  you  were  up  before  me,  and  fined 
three  times  during  the  first  two  years,"  said 
Mouat,  "  do  you  call  that  the  result  of  your 
Idndness  ?" 

"  Yes,"  said  Siggins,  "  I  was  green,  and 
did'nt  know  what  was  what.  But  you'll  not 
catch  me  up  before  you,  or  any  one  else,  for 
the  future.  I  manage  matters  better  than  that 
now." 

"  One  of  my  peons  told  me  of  some  frightful 
flogging  that  one  of  your  fellows  got  on  your 
estate  the  other  day,"  said  Mouat,  "  but  as  it 
did  not  come  before  me  officially,  of  course  I 
took  no  notice  of  it — planters  and  magistrates 
should  mutually  support  and  assist  each  other ; 
but  it  shows  that  these  things  are  spoken  of." 

"  Did  he,"  said  Siggins,  angrily,  "  I'm  glad 
you  told  me.  It  was  a  simple  affliir  enough. 
I  honoured  the  rascal's  daughter  with  a  little 
attention — she  was  a  fair,  neatly-formed  Kan- 
dian  girl — and  he  sulked  about  it,  although  he 
had  been  regularly  employed  on  my  place  for 


CKUELTY.  285 

three  years.  In  fact,  lie  grew  at  length  so 
insolent,  that  he  came  and  demanded  her  out 
of  the  bungalow,  where  she  was  living  in- 
finitely more  decently  and  respectably  than 
ever  slie  had  been  living  before.  The  servants 
had  particular  orders,  of  course,  that  she  should 
not  leave.  I  told  him  his  request  was  absurd, 
and  he  then  took  to  cryhig.  I  laughed  at  him 
as  any  one  else  would  do,  and  he  then  grew 
angry  and  swore  at  me.  That  was  too  much, 
so  ordering  liim  up  in  the  verandah,  he  had 
two  dozen — he  should  have  had  four,  but  the 
daughter  broke  away  from  the  servants  inside, 
when  she  heard  him'  crying  out,  and,  throwing 
herself  at  my  feet,  begged  mercy  for  him,  so  I 
let  him  go.  As  he  left  the  verandah,  however, 
he  tm-ned  and  swore  at  me  again,  talking  of 
the  magistrate,  so  I  had  him  up  once  more, 
and  whilst  he  was  getting  another  dozen  and 
his  daughter  was  being  locked  up  again,  J 
sent  for  the  head-man  of  the  village,  to  whom 
I  gave  a  few  rupees,  and  told  him  that  if  I  had 
any  more  trouble  from  that  fellow,  I  should 
never  hire  a  man  from  his  village  again.  He 
promised  I  should  hear  no  more  of  him,  and 
took  him  off." 

"  Good  God,"  said  I,  "is  it  possible  that  any 


286  A  planter's  tyranny. 

man  can,  not  only  do  such,  things,  but  have  the 
hardihood  to  relate  them  before  the  magistrate, 
whose  duty  it  is  to  investigate  and  punish  such 
crimes  ?" 

"  If  Mr.  Siggins  has  done  as  he  states,  I 
undoubtedly  condemn  it,"  said  Mouat,  turning 
his  cold,  impassive  eyes  on  me ;  "  but,  at  the 
same  time,  I  am  not  bound  to  take  advantage 
of  what  I  hear  privately,  at  my  friend's  table, 
to  punish  one  of  his  guests." 

"  It  is  a  horrible  circumstance,"  said  Hofer ; 
"  and  had  I  had  the  heart  to  do  it,  I  should 
have  been  ashamed  to  relate  it." 

"  Very  possibly,"  said  Siggins,  coolly ;  "  you 
are  both  comparatively  new  here — not  much 
more  than  a  twelvemonth  in  the  jungle  yet :  a 
few  years  will  make  you  less  nice." 

A  silence  of  some  minutes  succeeded  tliis 
observation,  during  which  I  reasoned  within 
myself  whether  I  should  not  urge  Mouat  to 
take  notice  of  the  matter  judicially.  Hofer 
evidently  guessed  my  thoughts,  for  he  shook 
his  head  in  a  deprecatory  way ;  and  feeling 
assured  that  the  sense  of  the  party  was  against 
the  interference,  I  said  no  more.  Mouat  saw 
the  shake  of  the  head,  and  probably  understood 
its  import,  saying,  "  I  regard  this  relation  in 


A  magistrate's  connivance,  287 

the  light  of  a  private  friendly  piece  of  gossip, 
not  serious ;  but  if  any  one  chooses  to  come  to 
the  court-house  to-morrov^,  and  swear  that 
such  things  took  place  at  Pallagolly,  I  shall 
investigate  the  matter  fully." 

"  Bravo !  Mouat,"  said  Siggins,  laughing 
heartily. 

"It  is  sometimes  a  dangerous  matter  for 
gentlemen  to  take  to  thrashing  their  servants," 
said  Mouat,  continuing,  "  as  our  friend  Van- 
strut  can  testify." 

Vanstrut  showed,  by  the  sheepish  way  in 
which  he  played  with  a  gold  cable  that  hung 
round  his  neck  in  heu  of  a  watch-guard,  that 
he  full}^  understood  the  allusion,  but  by  no 
means  relished  it. 

" Ah — a-hem,"  said  he ;  "I  have  no  sym- 
pathy with  the  Kandians  or  Malabar s  at  all. 
They're  both  equally  bad.  Siggins  was  quite 
right,  hang  me  if  he  wasn't." 

Now  considering  that  it  was  commonly  re- 
ported that  Yanstrut's  grandmother  was  a 
Kandian  lady  of  some  rank,  this  remark  was 
intolerable. 

"  But  why  can  Vanstrut  testify  as  you  say  ?" 
asked  I  of  Mouat,  to  the  former  gentleman's 
great  uneasiness. 


288  TUKNING  THE   TxVBLES. 

"  AVliy  really,  after  Siggins's  very  mal-apropos 
narrative,  I  don't  think  I  can  do  better  than 
^show  that  the  tables  are  sometimes  turned," 
said  Monat,  with  his  peculiar  eye-twinkle. 
'*  Vanstrut,  it  appears,  when  he  first  joined  the 
Eifles  in  Colombo,  had  a  big  Malabar  horse- 
keeper,  Tliuru  by  name — wasn't  it  Thuru  ?" 

"  Yes,  Thuru,"  said  Vanstrut,  with  some 
shght  symptom  of  energy  in  his  language ;  "  as 
srreat  a  scoundrel  as  ever  rubbed  down  a  horse." 

"  Doubtless,"  continued  Mouat ;  "  weU,  his 
name  was  Thuru.  Vanstrut  had,  moreover,  an 
unfortunate  hal^it  of  horsewhipping  his  offend- 
ing servants,  which,  in  the  more  civilized  parts 
of  our  noble  island,  often  got  him  into  trouble. 
One  day  Thuru  had  neglected  something,  or, 
which  was  nearly  the  same  thing  in  its  ,con- 
sequences,  Vanstrut  fancied  so,  and  accord- 
ingly gave  him  a  harmless  horsewhipping, 
not  exceeding,  I  believe,  in  the  castigation  by 
any  means  the  Hmits  of  moderation.  Some  of 
the  servants  were  present,  however ;  and  Thuru, 
who  was  a  favourite,  and  knew  what  his  rights 
were,  went  off  to  the  pohce  magistrate's  court^ 
and  made  his  deposition ;  the  other  servants 
were  summoned  as  witnesses.  The  case  was 
clearly  proved;    and  to  make  an  example  of 


TUENING  THE  TABLES.  289 

the  military  offender,  Vanstrut  was  fined  five 
pounds — a"  sum  which  he  would  willingly  pay 
any  day  for  a  httle  gratification." 

"  Certainly,"  said  Vanstrut,  proudly ;  "  a 
mere  trifle.  Who  wouldn't  pay  as  much  for  a 
little  gratification,  as  Mouat  says  ?" 

"  But  our  friend  was  not  content,"  continued 
Mouat ;  "he  thought  Thm^u  had  the  advantage 
of  him,  as  the  correction  given  was  inadequate 
to  the  price  paid :  so  he  sent  for  Thuru,  told 
him  it  was  all  forgiven,  and  hired  him  again." 

The  smile  which  diffused  itself  over  the  cox- 
combical countenance  of  Vanstrut  showed  that 
he  rejoiced  in  the  recollection  of  this  clever 
procedm-e. 

"  One  day,"  proceeded  Mouat,  "  Thuru  was 
alone  in  the  kitchen,  and  Vanstrut,  seizing  his 
whip  and  the  opportunity  at  the  same  time, 
marched  down  from  the  house.  Shutting  the 
door,  he  advanced  to  Thuru,  brandishing  the 
whip.  '  Now,  you  scoundrel,'  said  he,  '  no  one 
shall  see  it,  and  I'll  give  yOu  a  thrashing  you'll 
remember.  I've  sent  all  the  servants  out  of 
the  way,  and  you  shall  feel  somewhat  more 
'than  you  did  before.' — 'Stop,  mahathma,'  said 
Thuru,  beseechingly  ;  '  no  hit  me  ;  master,  for- 
give all.'-T— '  Yes,  you  scoundi-el,  till  I  could  get 

VOL.  I.  o 


290  TURNING  THE  TABLES. 

an  opportunity,  but  no  longer,'  answered  Yan- 
strut,  closing  up. — '  Stop,  maliatlima,'  urged 
Tliuru  again,  liis  hands  joined  in  front  in  the 
attitude  of  prayer.  '  Master  send  all  servants 
'way?' — '  Yes,  you  rascal,'  said  Yanstrut,  bring- 
ing his  whip  down  on  the  bare  shoulder  of 
the  supphant.  But  now  came  Thuru's  turn. 
Leaping  on  his  master,  whom  he  speedily  over- 
powered, he  seized  the  riding-whip,  a  remarkably 
heavy  one,  and  made  it  come  into  intimate 
acquaintance  with  his  master's  body.  Yan- 
strut was  thrown  down  amongst  black  pots  and 
earthenware  dishes,  and  then,  for  full  five 
minutes,  as  he  himself  afterwards  related  whilst 
still  sore  from  the  thrashing,  did  Thuru  vigor- 
ously ply  the  whip,  proving  his  muscular  force 
and  his  dexterity  at  the  same  time,  for  he  left 
no  marks  upon  any  uncovered  portion  of  our 
friend's  body.  At  length,  wearied  with  his 
exertion,  or  afraid  of  interruption,  for  he  swore 
afterwards  that  the  mahathma  had  roared  like 
a  bull — " 

"  An  infernal  lie,"  said  Yanstrut. 

"  Wearied  with  his  exertion,  I  say,"  con- 
tinued Mouat,  "  or  afraid  of  interruption,  Thuru 
ceased,  and  was  speeddy  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  his  master's  house,  where  he  did 


TURNING  THE  TABLES.  291 

not  again  venture  to  make  Lis  appearance. 
Vanstrut  liad  him  arrested,  and  the  case  came 
before  the  magistrate,  greatly  to  Thuru's  con- 
sternation ;  but  a  little  cross-examination 
brought  out  the  whole  story,  and  Vanstrut 
got  laughed  at  into  the  bargain,  whilst  Thuru 
escaped  with  flying  colours.  Indeed,  Lister 
told  me  that  '  Thuru '  is  still  a  standing  toast 
at  the  Eifle  mess," 

"  No,  no,"  said  the  gallant  officer,  quickly ; 
"  they  do  sometimes  quiz  a  Kttle  about  it,  but 
that's  all — not  a  standing  toast,  certainly.  Do 
you  know,"  he  continued,  more  solemnly,  "  I 
have  been  very  near  going  out  with  some  of 
our  fellows  about  this  very  affair;  and  when 
they  saw  I  really  did  intend  it,  there  was  less 
talking  than  there  used  to  be." 

The  former  part  of  the  evening  had  been 
pleasant  and  vivacious,  but  after  this  the  mer- 
riment ceased,  and  the  party  soon  broke  up. 
Siggins'  horrible  narrative  had  completely  de- 
stroyed our  pleasure,  and  Fowler  and  Hofer,  I 
thought,  as  well  as  our  Colombo  friend,  Mr. 
Smith,  shared  in  the  general  indignation.  I 
felt  a  loathing  for  the  man  and  liis  coarse 
humour,  such  as  I  do  not  remember  having  ever 
felt  before  for  any  person  with  whom  I  had  been 


292  BREAKING  UP  OF 

brought  into  sucli  close  connexion,  and  it  was  a 
relief  to  me  wlien  lie  was  gone.  I  remained 
at  Fowler's  that  night,  who  accommodated 
Hofer  and  myself  with  such  extempore  beds 
as  a  cofFee-jDlanter's  bungalow  could  afford.  I 
was  astonished  at  Mouat's  taking  no  fui-ther 
measures  to  punish  so  detestable  a  piece  of 
cruelty  ;  but,  strange  to  say,  on  mentioning  my 
impressions  on  the  subject  to  Hofer,  he  did  not 
agree  with  me.  He  condemned  the  transaction 
as  one  of  wanton  cruelty,  "  but,"  said  he,  "  it 
is  quite  a  Quixotic  idea  to  suppose  that  a  magis- 
trate is  to  be  a  hunter-out  of  crimuials  in  his 
private  meetings  with  his  friends.  He  is, 
naturally  anxious  to  stand  well  with  the 
planters,  and  such  a  procedure  as  you  advocate 
on  his  part,  would  destroy  all  confidence  be- 
tween both  parties.  Looking  at  it  abstractedly, 
as  a  question  of  right  and  wrong,  you  are,  doubt- 
less, on  the  safe  side ;  but  other  things  must 
be  taken  into  consideration.  If  the  head-man 
and  the  people  in  the  village  have  combined  to 
defeat  the  ends  of  justice,  you  would  find  that 
Mouat's  exertions  would  be  useless,  and  so  he, 
doubtless,  thinks  himself."  These  arguments 
were  by  no  means  satisfactory  to  me,  nor  did 
]\Iouat,  in   my  mind,   stand  absolved  from  a 


THE  TARTY.  293 

gross  dereliction  of  his  duty;  but,  on  subse- 
quently sending  to  the  village,  and  afterwards 
going  myself,  I  found  that  Hofer  was  partially 
right.  No  evidence  to  convict  Siggins  of  the 
crime  could  be  collected,  nor  could  I  even  dis- 
cover, after  the  most  diligent  investigation, 
the  injured  Kandian  whom  Siggins  had  treated 
so  barbarously.  Had  Mouat  himself,  however, 
armed  with  all  the  authority  of  the  law,  un- 
dertaken the  investigation,  there  can  be  little 
doubt  that  the  result  would  have  been  very 
different. 


294 


SPORTING  PARTY. 


CHAPTEE  IX. 

SPORTING— ELKS  AND  ELEPHANTS. 

"  Come,  shall  we  go  and  kill  U8  venison  ? 
And  yet  it  irks  me,  the  poor  dappled  fools, 
Being  native  burghers  of  this  desert  city, 
Should,  in  tlieir  own  confines,  with  forked  heads, 
Have  their  round  haunches  gored." 

As  You  Like  It,  act  ii.,  so.  1. 

It  was  some  time  after  the  incidents  related  in 
the  last  chapter  had  occurred,  that  Hofer 
assembled  a  shooting  party  at  his  bungalow  for 
a  few  days'  sport.  His  estate  was  situated 
in  a  fine  district  for  the  purpose,  as  wild  and 
jungly  as  the  most  inveterate  hunter  could 
desire.  The  party  consisted  of  Captain  Lister, 
and  a  young  of&cer  he  had  brought  with  him, 
who  had  only  just  arrived  in  Ceylon,  of  the 
name  of  Sparks — Lister  as  thorough  an  ele- 
phant-killer as  any  of  the  most  experienced 
sportsmen  in  the  island,  and  Sparks  as  green  a 


SPOKTING  PARTY.  295 

griffin  as  ever  landed  in  Colombo,  and  that  is 
saying  much ;  Mouat,  and  Towler,  and  myself 
completed  the  party — all  three  pretending  to 
some  little  skill  with  the  rifle,  but  all  equally 
willing  to  give  the  palm  to  Lister,  and  to  be 
guided  by  his  experience. 

The  day  of  our  arrival  was  spent  in  an  in- 
spection of  the  estate,  each  of  us  having  a 
separate  opinion  to  offer  relative  to  Hofer's  new 
schemes  and  improvements.  Beaters  were  sent 
out  to  look  after  the  elephants,  that  is,  natives 
whose  duty  it  was  to  drive  away  any  herd  that 
they  might  find  towards  the  neighbourhood  in 
which  we  intended  to  shoot  on  the  succeeding 
day ;  and  in  the  meantime  we  sat  down  to  din- 
ner— such  a  dinner  as  men  among  the  mountains 
can  alone  enjoy.  Not  that  there  was  any  ex- 
traordinary delicacy  forthcoming,  far  from  it; 
the  meal  was  but  plain  and  substantial;  but 
the  excellent  appetite  our  walks  had  given  us, 
and  the  cordiality  which  prevailed  amongst  the 
little  party,  all  tended  to  make  it  such  a  dinner 
as  one  does  not  readily  forget.  Nor  must  I 
omit  the  perfect  grace  and  elegance  with  which 
our  hostess  played  her  part — the  solitary  flower 
amongst  so  stubbly  a  forest.  Her  influence 
was  happily  felt  in  adding  a  charm  and  refine- 


296  JOKE  PLAYED  OFF 

ment  to  the  entertainment,  wliich  the  want  of 
female  society  in  the  jungle  generally,  makes 
one  feel  all  the  more  keenly  and  sensitively. 
There  is  something  new  to  planters,  accustomed 
to  their  own  bungalows  for  years,  and  their 
neighbours'  bachelor  parties,  in  finding  them- 
selves once  more  seated  near  the  highest  form 
of  civilized  life,  a  cultivated  woman.  There  is 
an  insensible  charm  diffused  over  the  table  and 
through  the  air  by  the  presence  of  one  whose 
refinement  pervades  at  once  the  bungalow  itself 
and  the  minutest  details  of  the  arrangements 
in  it,  that  must  be  felt  to  be  understood. 

In  the  course  of  conversation,  after  Mrs. 
Hofer  had  left  the  table,  I  heard  Sparks  asking 
our  host  whether  there  were  any  bread-fruit 
trees  near  his  estate,  and  expressing  his  anxiety 
to  see  one. 

"  Certainly,"  said  Hofer ;  "  we  passed  several 
of  them  to-day — if  you  come  out  with  me  early 
to-morrow  morning,  we  can  bruig  home  some 
fruit  for  breakfast." 

"  I  shall  be  delighted,"  said  Sparks ;  "  but 
you  don't  mean  to  say  that  you  eat  it  instead 
of  bread  ?" 

"  You  shall  judge  for  yourself  whether  it  can 
be  so  eaten,"  was  the  reply ;  '*but  you  must  be 


UPON  A  "  GRIFFIN."  297 

aware  that  out  in  the  jungle  here  we  have  great 
difficulty  in  getting  any  bread  at  all,  save  what 
we  make  ourselves,  or  procure  from  the  tree." 

"  Is  it  possible  ?"  asked  Sparks. 

"A  little  roasting,"  continued  Hofer,  "to 
put  a  crust  on  it  is  sufficient  to  convince  you 
that  it  is  really  from  the  oven." 

It  was  evident  that  poor  Sparks  had  to  pay 
the  usual  penalty  of  griffin-hood,  in  being  de- 
ceived to  the  utmost  possible  extent  that  the 
knowmg  ones  could  accomphsh.  Mouat  chimed 
in  with  Hofer,  assuring  Sparks,  with  the 
greatest  coolness,  of  the  superiority  of  a  bread- 
fruit for  breakfast  to  the  best  possible  loaf  from 
a  baker's,  "  although,  indeed,"  he  added,  "  you 
new-comers  are  so  prejudiced  in  your  taste  that 
I  have  seen  men  declare  it  was  watery  and  in- 
sipid. Of  its  nutritious  qualities,  however, 
there  cannot  be  a  question — indeed,  you  have 
only  to  look  at  our  friend  Lister  for  a  proof, 
for  every  one  knows  he  was  as  spare  as  I 
am  when  he  first  came  out,  and  that  the  dili- 
gent use  of  bread-fruit  alone  has  made  him 
what  he  is." 

Lister  was  earnestly  describing  to  Fowler, 
at  the  moment,  some  elephant  adventure,  and 
Mouat  knew,  therefore,  that  he  was  safe,  whilst 

o3 


298  JOKE  PLAYED  OFF 

Sparks  considered  tlie  subject  too  delicate  a  one 
to  question  liis  superior  officer  about. 

At  half  past  five  the  next  morning  I  heard 
Hofer  and  Mouat  bustling  about  and  getting 
Sparks  out,  I  quickly  joined  them,  to  see 
what  would  be  made  of  the  joke,  and  we  took 
the  road  through  the  estate  where  the  coolies 
were  just  commencing  work.  A  quarter  of  an 
hour's  good  walking  brought  us  within  sight  of 
a  bread-fruit  tree,  on  which  I  could  distinguish 
some  white  fruit,  new  to  my  eye,  and,  as  I  felt 
assured,  to  the  tree  also.  Hofer  pointed  it  out 
to  Sparks — "  There  is  the  fruit,  you  see,  quite 
ripe." 

"  Very  extraordinary,  indeed,"  replied  the 
young  officer ;  "it  looks  from  this  exactly  like 
bread.  I  read  somewhere  or  other  that  the 
fruit  was  green ;  I  am  sure  I  did,"  he  added, 
giving  his  companions  a  searching  look. 

"  You  have  only  to  look  at  the  tree,"  said 
Mouat,  "to  see  the  green  fruit  in  abundance; 
there  are  only  three  or  four  perfectly  ripe,  and 
in  a  few  months  there  won't  be  a  single  ripe 
fruit  on  it.  That's  the  cause  of  the  mistake,  I 
dare  say,  You  can  have  no  idea,"  he  added 
confidentially,  "  of  the  mistakes  people  make  in 
writing    about    Ceylon.      Why,    there's    one 


UPON  A  "GRIFFIN."  299 

autlior — I  forget  his  name — that  mentions 
Ruminacaddee  as  being  a  few  miles  from 
Galle." 

"  Perhaps  there's  another  village  there," 
suggested  Sparks,  "of  the  same  name." 

"  Nothing  of  the  kind,"  was  the  reply ;  "  but 
let  us  have  some  fruit  for  breakfast,  Hofer ; 
you  know  I  am  very  fond  of  it." 

A  coohe  was  called,  who  from  his  proximity 
to  us,  and  the  distance  at  which  he  was 
working  from  the  rest,  had,  I  suspected,  been 
stationed  there  for  the  purpose,  and  was  told 
to  tlu'ow  us  down  three  of  the  ripe  "  loaves." 

The  coolie  brought  down  three  specimens  of 
the  extraordinary  fr-uit,  as  he  had  been  ordered, 
and  I  found,  on  inspecting  them,  that  they 
were  really  and  truly  loaves  of  bread,  the  crust 
having  been  scraped  oif,  and  something  of  the 
form  of  the  fruit  itself  given  to  them,  whilst 
tender  shoots  were  ingeniously  fastened  into 
the  end.  They  were  almost  saturated  with 
dew,  and  on  this  account,  differed  sufficiently  in 
taste  fr'om  the  ordinary  dry  loaf  of  the  table  to 
render  the  deception  complete  to  the  senses  of 
so  credulous  a  man  as  Sparks. 

"  You   don't   like   the   taste,    I   see,"    said 
Mouat  to  him ;  "  but  you  must  remember  they 


800  JOKE  PLAYED  OFF 

require  a  little  baking,  and  then  you'll  enjoy 
them." 

"It  is  a  wonderful  production,"  exclauned 
Sparks ;  "  one  would  scarcely  beheve  it.  If 
one  were  to  tell  this  in  England  he  would  be 
laughed  at." 

"  Mention  it  in  your  next  letter  home," 
said  Hofer,  "  and  see  with  what  increduhty  the 
information  will  be  received." 

The  coolie  shouldered  his  httle  basket,  and 
conveyed  the  extraordinary  fruit  to  the  bun- 
galow. 

No  sooner  had  we  been  seated  at  breakfast 
than  Mrs.  Hofer  asked  the  appoo,  or  butler, 
who  was  waiting  at  table,  what  they  had  been 
doing  with  the  bread  to  disfigure  it  that  way, 
pointing  to  the  "  fruit."  The  appoo  was 
silent,  and  looked  at  his  master,  whilst  Sparks, 
who  was  sitting  neai*  the  lady,  laughed  out  at 
the  inquiry,  and  exclaimed,  "  I  see  you  don't 
know  the  bread-fruit,  then,  long  as  you  have 
been  here — ha  !  ha  !" 

"Bread-fruit!"  echoed  Mrs.  Hofer,  whilst 
her  husband  and  Mouat  dihgently  attended  to 
thefr  breakfast  alone.  Sparks  handed  over  the 
plate,  and  the  lady,  cutting  one  of  the  "  fruit," 
assured  him  that  those  were  not  bread-fruit. 


UPON  A  "  GRTFFIX,"  301 

but  loaves ;  "  although  how  they  came  into 
their  present  condition,"  she  added,  "  I  cannot 
tell."  The  appoo  was  at  the  moment  out  of 
the  room. 

"  We  gathered  them  from  the  tree  tliis 
morning,"  said  Sparks,  "  and  they  have  only 
been  roasted  since." 

It  was  impossible  to  keep  one's  countenance, 
so  ludicrous  was  the  contrast  between  Sparks' 
self-satisfied  confidence  and  Mrs.  Hofer's 
amazement.  Even  she  laughed,  but  soon 
checked  herself. 

*'  When  people  are  new  to  Ceylon,  Mr. 
Sparks,"  said  she,  "  it  is  considered  quite 
allowable — nay,  commendable — to  deceive  them 
in  every  possible  way.  Those  are  not  bread- 
fruit, but  loaves  that  have  been  partially 
wetted  and  then  baked  again,  the  crust  having 
first  been  removed.  But  you  are  not  singular 
in  being  so  taken  in  ;  I  have  heard  of  the  joke 
ha\TJig  been  played  ofi"  before,  although  I  have 
never  been  a  witness  to  it.  Mr.  Mouat,  I 
think,  first  mentioned  it  to  me." 

"  Yes,"  said  the  worthy  magistrate,  "  such 
things  have  been  done  before,  and  will  again. 
It  is  the  penalty  one  pays  for  griffinage." 

"  And  is  the  more  successful,"   added  the 


302  DISAPPOINTMENT  OF  THE  SPORTSMEN. 

la,dy,  "the  more  amiable  and  confiding  tlie 
party  imposed  upon." 

"It  is  well  I  did  not  write  home  and 
mention  the  matter,"  said  Sparks,  "  as  I  should 
have  done,  Mrs.  Hofer,  had  it  not  been  for 
your  goodness  in  undeceiving  me." 

Shortly  after  breakfast  we  were  all  in  the 
jungle,  and  had  some  good  sport  with  the 
bu'ds,  but,  strange  to  say,  not  a  wild  quad- 
ruped was  to  be  seen,  and  there  was  as  yet  no 
news  from  our  elephant-beaters.  Hofer  and 
Lister  were  both  equally  surprised  and  dis- 
appointed, and  proposed  returning  to  the  bun- 
galow, for  which  purpose  we  commenced 
ascending  a  steep  hill  near  us,  the  native 
attendants  in  the  rear,  and  our  host  in  front. 
He  had  not  proceeded  far,  when,  whispering  an 
"  elk,"  Hofer  pointed  to  two  large  antlers,  which 
appeared  between  some  bushes  above  us,  and 
of  which  a  sharp  turn  in  the  road  gave  us  an 
excellent  view.  We  halted,  of  course,  to  hold 
a  council  of  war  as  to  how  our  innocent  neigh- 
bom'  was  to  be  dispatched.  Not  a  single  rifle 
of  the  party  was  found  to  be  loaded  with  ball, 
and  shot  would  have  been  useless.  Lister, 
therefore,  proceeded,  as  noiselessly  as  possible 
to  draw  his  charge  and  reload.     Whether  the 


HERD  OF  ELKS.  303 

animal  heard  the  sound,  or  was  otherwise  dis- 
turbed, is  uncertain,  hut,  hounding  up,  for  he 
had  been  lying  down  previously,  he  faced  us, 
and  snuffed  vigorously  at  the  air,  his  broad 
forehead  and  expanding  nostrils  just  visible 
through  the  brushwood  behind  which  we  were 
concealed.  This  was  the  work  of .  an  instant, 
and  then  turning  round,  he  began  slowly  to 
ascend  the  hill. 

The  Captain  advanced  to  the  turn  of  the 
road  whence  we  had  first  perceived  the  animal, 
with  the  intention  of  firing.  As  it  ascended, 
however,  its  hind  quarters  were  alone  visible 
occasionally,  and  it  would  soon  be  altogether 
hid  in  the  thick  forest  above.  He  was  com- 
pelled to  fire,  therefore,  at  a  disadvantage; 
the  ball  lodged  in  the  animal's  thigh,  and, 
as  we  rushed  forward  we  saw  the  broad  antlers 
disappearing  in  the  jungle.  With  all  possible 
speed  did  we  set  forward,  Fowler  and  I  a-head, 
wliilst  Hofer  and  Lister  brought  up  the  rear. 
At  length  we  gained  the  summit  of  the  hill 
over  which  the  elk  had  passed,  wounded  as  he 
was,  with  incredible  speed,  and  before  I  had 
attained  to  a  small  clearing  on  the  other  side, 
I  heard  Fowler  firing  from  the  front  and  Mouat 
from  the  side.    A  splendid  herd  of  elks  was  to 


304  HERD  OF  ELKS. 

be  seen  from  this  position  rushing  down  the 
hill's  side  into  the  valley,  one  of  which  Fowler 
had  knocked  over,  whilst  Mouat  had  wounded 
another. 

Just  as  we  were  on  the  point  of  making  for 
the  forest  again  to  pursue  them  straight  down 
the  declivity,  Fowler's  Singlialese  attendant 
whispered  something  to  liim,  and  he  turned  off, 
at  right  angles  to  our  former  course,  to  the  left. 
I  did  not  understand  the  movement  but  followed, 
and  as  I  did  so,  I  saw  Lister  making  in  the 
same  direction,  whilst  Mouat,  Sparks,  and  Hofer 
continued  straight  down  the  hill  side.  We 
were  now  traversing  the  brow  of  the  mountain, 
with  a  ravine  on  our  right,  in  which  the  elks 
were  proceeding  in  a  line  nearly  parallel  to  us, 
but  not  in  advance,  for  we  had  struck  to  the 
left  before  they  had  reached  the  bottom  of  the 
valley.  It  was  a  noble  sight  to  see  a  hundred 
of  them,  dashing  after  each  other  over  rocks 
and  through  jungle,  in  mad  terror — the  two 
unfortunate  wounded  ones  lagging  a  Httle 
behind  their  companions.  The  ground  over 
which  we  were  passing  was  terribly  harassing 
— thick  tufted  grass  with  occasional  brush- 
wood, and  now  and  then  a  thorny  bramble 
creeping  along  the  ground,    as   if  designedly 


HERD  OF  ELKS.  305 

to  impede  our  progress.  Fowler  outstripped 
Lister  and  myself,  and  pushed  on  at  a  tre- 
mendous pace,  whilst  the  lighter  and  less  en- 
cumbered natives  were  a-head  of  him.  The  valley 
curved  round  to  the  left,  and,  if  the  herd  could 
but  be  arrested  at  the  angle,  it  might  possibly 
be  turned  back  to  Hofer  and  his  companions,  if 
we  could  gain  the  proper  position  in  time — at  all 
events,  we  were  sure  of  excellent  sport. 

As  we  made  our  way  impetuously  through 
grass  and  bushes,  we  heard  our  three  friends  in 
the  valley  sending  remembrances  after  the  elks, 
and,  on  looking  again  at  the  herd,  I  was  glad  to 
see  that  the  two  wounded  ones  were  brought  down, 
whilst,  as  Sparks  subsequently  declared,  he  had 
taken  an  antler  off  another.  On  came  the  herd, 
however,  in  mad  speed  to  the  angle  of  the  valley, 
whilst  we  were  rushing  down  to  secure  the  po- 
sition. Fowler  and  I  marked  the  leader,  and 
fired  almost  together.  It  fell,  and,  at  the  same 
moment,  our  Singhalese  attendants  raised  a  fright- 
ful din  behind  us.  The  effect  was  electric.  In  a 
moment  confusion  worse  confounded  was  to  be 
seen  in  the  ranks  of  the  enemy,  and  whilst  one 
was  rushing  here,  and  another  there.  Lister 
brought  down  one  of  them  with  a  bullet  from 
his   unerring   rifle.     The  indecision  of  the  herd 


306  HERD  OF  ELKS. 

lasted  but  for  a  moment  however,  and,  like  an 
animated  mass  of  dusty  earth,  they  bomided  up 
the  hill  to  our  right  which  we  had  just  descended, 
directly  towards  our  friend  Lister.  I  was  alarmed 
for  his  safety  when  I  saw  this  new  movement,  but 
he  did  not  seem  much  alarmed  himself  Before 
I  could  get  my  rifle  reloaded,  he  discharged  his 
remaining  barrel  full  into  the  forehead  of  an  ad- 
vancing elk.  It  fell,  and,  for  a  moment,  the  herd 
was  staggered  in  its  course,  but  the  impulse  from 
behind  was  too  strong  to  admit  of  a  fresh  change 
of  direction.  On  they  swept,  Lister  was  thrown 
down  by  the  rush,  and  the  whole  herd  bounded 
directly  over  him  up  the  hill,  but  so  swiftly  and 
lightly  did  they  tread  their  way,  that,  with  the 
exception  of  a  scratch  or  two,  he  escaped  scatheless. 
That  was  the  last  we  saw  of  them.  In  a  moment 
they  were  over  the  brow  of  the  hill  and  had  dis- 
appeared in  the  jungle  on  the  other  side. 

I  could  not  then  understand  why  they  had  not 
gone  straight  up  the  opposite  hill — that  on  the 
other  side  of  the  valley — but  I  subsequently 
learned  it — Hofer's  estate  was  immediately  over 
the  summit,  and  doubtless  the  elks  were  aware, 
that  by  taking  that  direction,  they  would  have 
fallen  into  a  trap  —  their  turning  to  the  left, 
however,    instead   of  to  the  right,    in  the  first 


NEWS  OF  ELEPHANTS.  307 

instance,  was  merely  the  result  of  accident,  al- 
tliough  the  Singhalese  maintained  that  they 
always  preferred  turning  to  the  left  as  it  was 
the  luckiest  side.  However  that  may  be,  certain 
it  is  that  had  they  turned  to  the  right,  our  party, 
as  contra-distinguished  from  Hofer's,  would  have 
had  no  sport  whatever.  Our  five  elks  formed  by 
no  means  a  contemptible  trophy  of  the  day's  work, 
and  when  added  to  the  jungle  fowl,  proved  that 
the  accounts  we  had  heard  of  Ruminacaddee  sport 
were  by  no  means  exaggerated.  The  day's  plea- 
sure was  wound  up  by  a  piece  of  news  which  we 
did  not  receive  till  coffee  and  cheroots  had  taken 
the  place  of  the  substantial  viands  of  the  table — - 
this  was,  that  a  herd  of  elephants  had  been  met 
with  ten  miles  to  the  south-east,  which  was  slowly 
moving  in  the  direction  of  the  estate,  and  which 
had  not  yet  been  disturbed.  The  messenger  added 
that  they  must  already  be  within  seven  miles  of 
Lanka.  This  was  cheering  news,  so  with  an 
extra  glass  of  claret  to  our  morning's  exploits, 
we  separated  early  to  sleep  off  the  fatigues  of  the 
day,  and  to  renovate  ourselves  for  those  that  were 
to  come.  It  was  agreed,  before  our  dispersion, 
that  we  should  reassemble  at  five  on  the  ensuing 
morning. 

It  was  about  six,  however,  before  we  were  all 


308  PREPARING  FOR  SPORT. 

ready  for  tlie  road — each  man  mounted  on  liis 
steed,  and  a  curious  collection  of  steeds  they  were, 
as  is  generally  the  case  in  mounted  parties  in  Cey- 
lon. Hofer  rode  the  same  country  horse,  or  tattoo, 
as  they  call  it  in  the  island,  on  which  he  had  ac- 
companied me  to  the  Peak.  Captain  Lister  had 
a  strong  Cape  horse,  very  hke  an  Enghsh  hack, 
although  too  much  out  of  condition  for  elegance, 
whether  from  the  Captain's  weight  or  recent  hard 
work,  cannot  now  be  decided.  Fowler  had  a  tall 
powerful  animal,  as  vicious  as  any  horse  that  was 
ever  sent  from  Bombay  to  Ceylon  for  sale,  and 
that  is  saying  much,  for  the  good  folks  of  Bombay 
when  they  have  collected  a  batch  of  unmanageable 
steeds,  such  as  they  can  make  nothing  of,  are 
convinced  that  those  are  "  the  very  horses  for  the 
Ceylon  market" — and  why  ?  you  ask — "  because 
Ceylon  planters  can  ride  anything."  Sparks  had 
a  fine-looking  charger  which  he  had  bought  from 
an  Arab  in  Colombo,  an  animal  that  took  an  inch 
of  spur  to  make  him  trot,  and  had  only  once  been 
seen  by  any  one  to  canter.  Uncle  Toby  bore  me 
as  usual,  and,  though  small  compared  with  the 
Cape  horse  and  Fowler's  Eozinante,  was  by  no 
means  the  worst  of  the  batch. 

Thus  mounted,  and  accompanied  by  numerous 
coolies,  bearing  rifles,  ammunition,  suppHes  and 


___  _\ 


DESCRIPTION  OF  ROAD.  309 

talipot  leaves  to  construct  tents  in  case  of  neces- 
sity, we  sallied  forth,  eager  for  the  fray,  and  augur- 
ing weU.  from  the  sjDort  of  the  previous  day  of 
that  which  was  to  come.  Our  road  lay  through 
a  wild  ravine,  such  as  is  frequently  to  be  met  with 
in  Ceylon,  where  two  huge  mountains  rise  on 
either  side,  barely  affording  room  for  the  torrent 
which  roars  tlirough  the  aperture — 

"  It  seem'd  some  mountain,  rent  and  riven, 
A  passage  to  the  stream  had  given, 
So  high  the  clifTs  of  limestone  grey 
Hung  beetling  o'er  the  torrent's  way." 

Beyond  the  occasional  starting  of  a  jungle  fowl, 
or  scaring  of  some  apprehensive  and  hght-footed 
deer,  far  off  on  the  mountain's  sides  or  summits, 
there  was  little  in  the  way  of  sport,  but  the 
scenery  on  our  road  was  delightful.  A  succession 
of  mountain  landscapes  of  the  most  beautiful 
character,  variegated  with  forest  and  open  land, 
or  patna,  as  it  is  here  called,  lay  on  our  path — 
occasionally  the  dark  shade  of  a  hill  thrown  com- 
pletely over  the  valley,  and  half  way  up  the  side 
of  the  opposite  mountain.  Glowing  in  one  place 
on  the  little  brawhng  rivulet  that  struggled 
noiselessly  along,  the  sun's  rays  sparkled  in  the 
water,  whilst,  in  another,  the  stream  looked  like 
ink  from  the  dark  shadow  of  the  forest  overhang-- 
ing  it,  which  the  hght  never  pierced.     There  is 


310  ELEPHANT  TRACKS. 

mucli  in  such  scenes  that  powerfully  arrests  the 
attention,  and  prevents  the  impression  from  fading 
away  out  of  the  tablets  of  the  memory. 

By  a  circuitous  route  we  arrived  at  length  at 
the  position  indicated  by  the  beaters  at  the  rear 
of  the  herd,  so  as  to  drive  them  fi'om  the  estate 
in  the  course  of  our  shooting.  Here  we  found  a 
convenient  spot  for  a  hurried,  but  abundant  col- 
lation, during  which  the  plan  of  operations  was 
discussed  at  the  same  time  as  the  ham.  The 
beaters  were  dispersed  to  the  right  and  left  of 
that  part  of  the  forest  which  the  herd  occupied — 
the  most  resolute  however  being  placed  on  the 
elephant  tracks,  immediately  in  front,  so  as  to  turn 
them  back  on  us  when  they  first  started.  Captain 
Lister  and  Fowler  took  the  path  to  the  right, 
Mouat  and  Hofer  that  to  the  left,  whilst  Sparks 
and  myself  were  left  to  pursue  the  tracks  running 
straight  up  to  the  herd,  those  by  wliich  the 
elephants  had  passed  on  the  previous  day.  In  a 
few  minutes  we  two  were  left  alone  with  our  am- 
munition bearers,  the  others  having  dived  into  the 
forest.  We  had  each  two  rifles,  one  double- 
barrelled  and  one  single,  not  grooved — rthe  grooved 
take  too  long  to  load  in  dangerous  sport — with  a 
good  stock  of  ounce  zinc  bullets,  and  a  large  quan- 
tity of  Lister's  excellent  advice  stored  in  our  heads. 


THE  FOE  DISCOVERED.  311 

On  we  went  in  the  forest,  eagerly  listening  for 
some  signs  of  the  foe,  or  for  the  report  of  our 
friends'  rifles  on  the  right  or  left  of  us.  Not  a 
sound  was  heard,  however,  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  during  which  tune  we  kept  looking  anxiously 
out  on  aU  sides.  At  length  this  portentous  silence 
was  put  an  end  to  by  a  report  on  our  right,  only 
just  audible  amidst  the  din  of  the  jungle.  A 
few  seconds  afterwards,  a  female  elephant  of 
moderate  size,  without  tusks,  and  accompanied  by 
a  young  one,  appeared  in  front,  making  du'ectly 
towards  us.  They  were  at  much  too  great  a  dis- 
tance to  render  firing  available,  and,  whilst  I  was 
exhorting  Sparks  to  be  patient,  we  gallantly  ad- 
vanced to  meet  the  foe.  The  mother  hmped  per- 
ceptibly as  she  made  her  way  heavily  through  the 
jungle,  wounded  in  the  shoulder,  whilst  the  young 
one,  alarmed  and  excited,  kept  close  by  her  side, 
and  ever  and  anon  bellowed  forth  his  fears.  The 
view  which  she  soon  obtained  of  us  made  her  turn 
directly  towards  us,  as  if  determined  to  have  some 
revenue  for  her  misfortunes.  Our  horses  had  of 
course  been  left  at  our  temporary  halting-place — 
and  the  moment  the  attendants  perceived  the 
monster  approacliing,  they  climbed  into  the  tree, 
at  the  foot  of  wliich  we  stood,  leaving  one  rifle 
in  our  hands,  and  the  other  by  our  feet.     No 


312  YOUNG  ELEPHANT. 

fairer  target  could  have  been  presented  to  a  marks- 
man than  the  broad  forehead  of  the  dam,  as  she 
thus  boldly  advanced.  At  length  she  was  within 
twenty  paces  of  us,  and  we  fired  together.  The 
balls  penetrated  the  head,  but  were  not  fatal. 
They  were  sufficient,  however,  to  cool  down  the 
energy  and  boldness  of  her  advance,  for  she  im- 
mediately struck  into  another  path  to  avoid  us. 
This  we  were  determined  to  prevent,  and  taking 
up  our  double -barrels,  made  across  to  intercept 
her.  One  shoulder  was  already  disabled,  and  two 
balls  in  the  other,  brought  her  down  heavily  upon 
her  fore-legs  and  head.  Before  she  could  rise 
again,  two  additional  bullets  had  put  an  end  to 
her  struggles,  and  turning  on  her  side,  her  trunk 
fell  heavily  to  the  ground.  The  young  one  up  to 
this  time  had  been  neglected,  but  now,  seeing  liis 
mother  down,  he  rushed  violently  towards  us  in 
attack,  and,  as  our  rifles  were  empty,  we  were 
obliged  to  beat  a  hasty  and  inglorious  retreat, 
Sparks  and  I  vieing  with  each  other  in  the  celerity 
of  our  flight.  But  the  object  of  the  infant 
monster  was  victory,  not  revenge,  so  after  putting 
us  thus  to  the  right  about,  he  returned  to  mourn 
over  his  mother.  Our  rifles  were  soon  reloaded, 
and  advancing  boldly  up  to  him,  he  fell  almost 
immediately  on  the  outstretched  trunk  of  his  dam. 


SINGHALESE  FLATTERY.  313 

Our  servants  now  ventured  clown  from  the  trees, 
and  endeavoured  to  remove  the  impression  made 
upon  our  minds  by  their  cowardice,  by  assuring 
us  that  master  was  "j)l^^^y  g^^d  shot" — informa- 
tion which  we  received  with  aU  becoming  modesty, 
glancing  at  the  prostrate  elephants,  however, 
with  no  small  satisfaction. 

We  were  roused  from  our  inaction  by  a  fright- 
ful din  in  the  distance,  caused  by  the  beaters  en- 
deavouring, by  every  species  of  earthly  and  un- 
earthly noise  that  they  could  make  or  invent,  to 
turn  the  elephants  back  and  prevent  them  break- 
ing away  into  a  thick  jungle  in  front,  where  pur- 
suit would  have  been  impossible.  We  soon 
arrived  at  the  highest  point  of  the  gently  sloping 
mound  we  had  been  ascending,  beyond  which 
there  was  a  species  of  valley  ended  far  away  in 
the  distance  by  a  similar  elevation  to  that  on 
which  we  stood.  The  herd  were  at  the  extremi- 
ties of  this  valley,  and  the  object  of  the  beaters 
was  to  prevent  them  making  their  way  into  the 
jungle  beyond,  wliich  was  of  the  densest  and 
most  impenetrable  character.  There  were  very 
few  trees  on  the  valley-like  expanse  before  us, 
the  ground  being  covered  by  that  long  wiry 
description  of  grass,  which  I  have  so  often  men- 
tioned. In  the  meantime  it  was  quite  evident 
that   the   awful   noise   which   the   natives   were 

VOL.  I.  P 


314  CRITICAL  SITUATION  OF 

making  at  the  otlier  extremity  of  the  httle  plain, 
was  staggering  the  resolution  of  the  elephants. 
They  halted,  trmnpeted,  ran  hither  and  thither, 
and  tried  to  break  away  into  the  forest  at  either 
side.  There,  however,  they  were  met  by  unerring 
rifles  that  dealt  death  rapidly — Lister  and  Fowler 
at  one  side,  Hofer  and  Mouat  on  the  other,  taking 
care  that  they  did  not  break  off  that  way. 

At  length,  with  loud  bellowing  at  then*  inglo- 
rious retreat,  their  trunks  and  tails  high  in  the 
air,  and  the  tuskers  in  front,  the  herd  turned 
completely  away  from  the  beaters,  who  shouted 
more  ferociously  than  ever,  and,  as  if  furies  were 
pursuing  them,  on  came  the  huge  monsters 
directly  towards  the  point  where  we  were  posted. 
To  have  met  them  then  on  foot  would  have  been 
madness,  as  they  were  evidently  paralyzed  with 
fear,  and  would  rush  one  after  the  other  blindly, 
even  to  destruction.  I  therefore,  chmbed  a  tree 
and  chose  a  convenient  bough  for  popping  at  them 
as  they  passed — my  Singhalese  servant  by  my 
side,  ready  to  load  the  moment  my  gun  was 
empty.  Sparks  could  not  be  induced  to  follow 
my  example,  declaring  that  he  was  not  afraid; 
and,  notmthstanding  all  that  I  could  do,  insisted 
on  remaining  where  he  was.  His  attendant  de- 
posited the  rifle  by  his  side,  and  was  soon  securely 
placed  in  a  large  tree  in  our  vicinity.     AU  this 


ONE  OF  THE  PARTY.  315 

was  the  work  of  a  moment  or  two.  The  ele- 
phants were  about  a  mile  distant  when  we  com- 
menced to  make  our  arrangements,  but  were  getting 
rapidly  over  the  ground;  so,  solemnly  warning 
Sparks  of  the  probable  result  of  his  folly,  I  left 
him  to  receive  the  meed  of  his  temerity.  It  was 
impossible  for  me  to  assist  him ;  and  the  sacrifice 
of  my  own  life,  even  were  I  disposed  to  make  it, 
which  I  was  not,  would  not  have  improved  his 
chance  of  escape. 

A  large  tusker  came  on  very  much  in  advance 
of  the  rest  of  the  elephants,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
perhaps,  before  the  main  body,  which  straggled 
here  and  there  on  either  side ;  still  making  after 
the  leader,  however.  Lister  and  Hofer,  seeing 
that  they  were  determined  on  escaping  by  the 
way  they  had  come,  now^  left  the  shelter  of  the 
forest  and  advanced  into  the  open  space  in  the 
midst,  each  bringing  down  a  straggler,  before  the 
large  tusker  in  fi-ont  had  neared  us.  He  had  no 
sooner  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  rising  ground 
on  which  our  httle  party  was  perched  than  he 
saw  Sparks  right  before  him,  but  the  view  neither 
lessened  nor  increased  his  speed — he  came  dog- 
gedly on  as  before,  determined  to  escape  the  com- 
motion and  destruction  in  the  rear.  He  was  not 
more  than  twenty  paces  distant  when  I  fired  full 
into  his  forehead ;  but  the  wound  was  not  mortal. 


316  SUCCESSFUL  FEINT. 

He  gave  a  single  bellow,  stroking  his  forehead 
with  his  trunk,  as  he  stiU  rushed  on.  In  a  moment 
I  heard,  to  my  dismay  and  horror,  |:he  chck  of 
Spark's  rifle-lock,  the  weapon  having  hung  fire ! 
The  next  moment  Sparks  liimself  had  fallen  as  if 
pierced  through  the  head  by  a  shower  of  zinc 
bullets.  The  elephant  rushed  on — in  an  instant 
he  was  by  the  side  of  the  unfortunate  young  man, 
and  putting  down  his  trunk,  roUed  him  over  on  the 
ground ;  but  there  was  no  sign  of  hfe ;  and,  doubt- 
less fancying  he  was  dead,  the  tusker  sped  on  in 
his  flight,  leaving  me  to  attend  to  him.  I  was 
soon  by  his  side,  and  he  raised  himself  unhurt 
from  the  ground.  Before  the  herd  had  gained  the 
brow  of  our  httle  hill,  we  were  both  safely  seated 
on  the  same  branch  that  I  had  just  left,  Sparks  as- 
suring me  that  his  dropping  down  was  a  feint  to 
make  the  tusker  fancy  he  was  dead.  I  strongly 
suspected,  however,  it  was  the  result  of  an  over- 
powering sensation  of  fear,  at  seeing  liimself,  to 
all  appearance,  irretrievably  lost — whichever  it 
was,  feint  or  faint,  it  stood  him  in  good  stead 
thus,  for  it  was  unquestionably  the  saving  of 
his  life. 

From  the  position  we  occupied  on  the  tree 
we  were  able  to  do  great  execution  as  the  huge 
monsters  made  their  way  with  difficulty  up  the 
hill  or  mound,  wearied  with  their  flight,  and  con- 


RESULTS  OF  THE  DAY.  317 

fused  and  terrified  with  the  din  beliind.  We 
succeeded  in  bringing  down  two,  before  they  had 
all  passed;  one  that  had  been  severely  wounded 
by  Mouat  a  little  before,  and  one  that  had  lost 
an  eye  from  a  ball  fired  early  in  the  fray,  by 
whom  was  uncertain.  In  all,  eight  of  the  foe 
were  stretched  lifeless  in  various  parts  of  the  plain 
and  forest,  and  of  these,  tlu'ee  were  tuskers.  We 
were  completely  exhausted.  Wliat  with  the  ex- 
ertion of  first  making  our  way  through  the  forest, 
and  then  sitting  or  running,  exposed  to  the  full 
beams  of  a  tropical  sun  for  a  considerable  period, 
the  exertion  was  enough  to  satisfy  the  most  in- 
veterate glutton  of  sport.  A  burning  thirst 
consumed  us,  and  I  believe  copious  draughts  of 
strong  brandy  and  water,  alone  prevented  the 
most  serious  consequences.  I  felt  completely 
knocked  up  before  we  had  regained  the  station 
we  had  left,  and  yet  Sparks  and  I  had  had  far  less 
exertion  than  the  others.  I  was  glad  to  find  that 
they  all  agreed  with  me  on  the  rashness  and 
folly  of  Spark's  conduct  in  insisting  on  awaiting 
the  rush  of  the  whole  herd  on  foot,  as  fifty  beaters 
would  scarcely  have  been  sufiicient  to  turn  them 
again,  and  although  two  or  even  tlu*ee  were 
brought  down  by  him  at  first,  he  must  inevitably 
have  been  destroyed  by  the  others. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that,  in  thus  slaughter- 


318  DESTRUCTION  CAUSED  BY  ELEPHANTS. 

ing  these  unwieldy,  but  sagacious  animals,  the 
sportsman  is  causing  wanton  and  useless  pain  and 
destruction  of  life.  The  elephants  so  aboimded 
in  many  districts,  that  Government  offered  re- 
wards for  their  destruction,  whilst  the  injm*ies 
they  inflicted  on  the  coffee  estates  were  often 
irreparable.  Nor  was  it  easy  to  make  fences  that 
would  keep  them  out — they  would  walk  through 
an  ordinary  fence,  or  destroy  it  in  their  gambols, 
without  having  the  shghtest  idea  that  it  was  a 
fence  at  all.  Even  the  huge  logs  of  the  fallen 
timber  laid  diagonally  on  each  other  and  kept  in 
their  position  by  perpendicular  supports  on  either 
side,  were  often  insufficient  to  withstand  them. 
They  seemed  to  take  a  miscliievous  pleasm^e  in 
showing  what  they  could  do  with  theu'  tusks 
and  trunks  when  they  liked ;  whilst  the  wild 
buffaloes  followed  their  example,  and  between  the 
two,  the  strongest  fences  altogether  disappeared 
l)ut  too  frequently. 


THE  PARSEES.  319 


CHAPTEE  X. 

THE  PARSEES— ZOROASTER. 

"  Call  all  your  tribes  together,  praise  the  gods, 
And  make  triumphant  fires." 

Coriolanus,  act  v.,  sc.  4. 

There  was  no  class  of  the  various  inhabitants  of 
Ceylon  that  more  interested  me  than  the  Parsees. 
Their  peculiar  dress  and  manners  strike  the  most 
indijBPerent  observer,  stamping  them  at  once  as  a 
strange  and,  at  the  same  time,  as  a  superior  race. 
The  hat,  covered  with  flowered  silk  or  stuff, 
sloping  gracefully  back  from  the  forehead  over 
the  head  in  an  arched  form,  generally  surmounts 
features  of  great  regularity  and  often  of  great 
beauty,  whilst  the  white  robe  confined  at  the 
waist,  always  scrupulously  clean  and  neat,  sets  off 
to  advantage  figm'es  generally  taller  than  those  of 
the  Singhalese,  and  infinitely  more  graceftJ  and 
commanding.  There  is  an  interest  too  excited  in 
the  breast  of  the  most   indifierent  when   he   is 


320  THE  PARSEES,  A 

informed  that  the  man  who  is  before  him  is  a 
fire-worshipper,  the  descendant  of  those  of  old 
from  the  banks  of  the  Euplirates  and  the  plains 
of  Chaldea,  who  first  worshipped  "  all  the  host  of 
heaven,"  that  makes  him  long  to  know  something 
of  the  man  and  of  those,  who,  driven  like  the 
Jews  from  their  own  country,  still  maintain, 
like  them,  their  distinctive  character  as  a  peculiar 
people,  and  the  religion  bequeathed  to  them  by 
their  ancestors.  Like  the  Jew  too,  the  Parsee  in 
the  countries  to  which  he  has  fled,  has  often  been 
the  object  of  persecution  and  ill-treatment  by 
those  whom  he  despised  as  infidels  and  unbe- 
lievers. Nor  has  the  one  clung  more  pertina- 
ciously to  Moses  than  the  other  to  Zoroaster. 
Exile,  misfortune,  political  annihilation,  per- 
secution and  wealth  have  equally  failed  to  pluck 
the  religion  of  their  forefathers  from  then*  breasts 
and  to  throw  them  stranded  on  the  shores  of 
foreign  faiths.  Strange  analogy  between  these 
two  peculiar  people  ;  the  one  scattered  over  the 
East  as  widely  as  the  other  over  the  West !  The 
one  as  much  persecuted  by  the  followers  of 
Mohammed,  of  Brahma,  and  of  Gotama,  as  the 
other  by  the  pretended  followers  of  Christ,  and 
with  precisely  the  same  result !  Like  tlie  Jews, 
the  Parsees  have  accmnulated  wealth  by  commerce 
wherever  they  have  gone.     In  Canton,  in  Singa- 


PERSECUTED  PEOPLE.  321 

pore,  in  Sydney,  in  Calcutta,  in  Madras,  in  Co- 
lombo, in  Bombay,  in  Ormuz,  they  have  been 
equally  successful ;  and  whether  brought  into  com- 
petition mth  the  crafty  Chinese,  the  revengeful 
Malays,  the  polite  Hindus,  the  indifferent  Budhists, 
the  money -loving  English,  or  the  religion-loving 
Mussulmans,  the  result  has  been  the  same — dollars 
or  rupees  have  been  accumulated,  until  their 
wealth  has  become  almost  proverbial ;  and  this, 
notwithstanding  the  frowns  of  power  and  the 
hatred  of  rival  creeds.  In  all  these  various  places 
too,  they  have  preserved  themselves  a  distinct 
people,  seeking  no  alliances  with  foreigners,  and 
maintaining  from  Australia  and  China  to  Arabia, 
the  same  peculiar  manners  and  customs  with  the 
faith  of  their  forefathers. 

The  monarchy  consolidated  by  the  successes  of 
Cyrus,  continued  independent  and  supreme  in 
some  part  of  Persia  until  the  irruption  of  the 
Saracens  in  the  seventh  century.  Rising  ever 
fresh  and  with  renewed  energy  after  the  inroads 
of  the  Grreeks  and  Romans,  the  kingdom  still 
maintained  its  sacred  fire,  its  Zoroastrian  faith, 
and  its  worship  of  Ormuzd,  to  the  reign  of 
Yezdejeerd,  in  the  early  part  of  the  seventh 
century. 

At  the  battle  of  Kadseah,  in  638,  the  Persian 

p3 


322  BATTLE  OF  XAHAVAND. 

army  was  completely  defeated  by  the  Moham- 
medans, and  the  sacred  standard  lost.  It  was  three 
years  before  the  Persian  monarch  Yezdejeerd  found 
himself  again  able  to  take  the  field  for  a  final 
struggle.  His  army  amounted  to  150,000  men, 
and  under  a  celebrated  general  named  Ferozin, 
the  fire-worshippers  hoped  not  only  to  gain  the 
victory  but  to  revenge  themselves  for  the  losses 
their  country  had  already  sustained.  The  Saracen 
forces  were  commanded  by  Mazanni,  acting  under 
the  orders  of  the  Caliph  Omar,  and  rehgious 
enthusiasm,  together  with  the  energy  and  zeal 
inspu'ed  by  a  new  faith,  soon  swelled  their  ranks 
until  the  numbers  were  nearly  equal  on  both  sides. 
For  two  months  indecisive  skirmishes  alone 
took  place  between  the  armies;  their  leaders 
restrained  equally  by  prudential  motives  from 
making  any  general  assault.  The  fate  of  a  king- 
dom hung  upon  the  result  of  the  battle;  the 
religion  of  multitudes  for  more  than  a  thousand 
years,  was  to  be  decided  by  the  contest.  If 
Ferozin  had  gained  the  victory  Zoroaster  would 
still  perhaps  have  been  the  prophet  of  Persia,  and 
his  followers  at  the  present  day,  instead  of  being 
ennobled  by  misfortune  and  rendered  more  power- 
ful by  trials,  might  have  been  sinking  mto  the 
nerveless  lassitude   of  the  present  followers   of 


BATTLE  OF  NAHAVAND.  323 

Mohammed.  The  battle  was  rather  between  the 
rival  creeds  of  the  fire-worshipping  prophet  and 
him  of  Mecca,  than  between  the  king  Yezdejeerd 
and  the  Caliph  Omar.  At  length  the  impatient 
spirit  of  Mazanni  could  be  no  longer  restrained, 
and,  at  an  obscure  village  called  Nahavand,  forty- 
five  miles  south  of  Hamadan,  the  ancient  Ecba- 
tana,  the  Saracens  wei^e  precipitately  formed  in 
order  of  battle,  and  shouting  their  war-cry, 
"  Allah  Akbar,"  made  a  furious  attack  upon  the 
host  of  Ferozin. 

That  battle  of  Nahavand  decided  the  fate  of 
Persia.  The  Saracens  were  completely  successful, 
immense  numbers  of  the  fire-worshippers  were 
cut  down  including  their  general ;  and  Yez- 
dejeerd fled  from  the  field  to  lead  a  precarious 
life  amongst  the  mountains,  which,  it  is  said, 
lasted  for  ten  years,  when  he  was  mm'dered  by  a 
miller  whom  he  had  offended,  eight  miles  from 
Mero.  Of  the  remainder  of  the  host  of  Ferozin, 
such  as  embraced  the  faith  of  Mohammed  were 
allowed  to  serve  their  new  masters  in  peace,  the 
others  fled  to  the  fastnesses  of  the  mountains 
of  Khorasan,  or  wandered  away  to  the  desolate 
plains  of  the  salt  desert.  About  half  a  centmy 
after,  the  descendants  of  these  faithful  Zoro- 
astrians  assembled  at  the  island  of  Ormuz  to 
escape  the  persecutions   of  the   Mohammedans, 


324  FIRST  APPEARANCE  OF  PAKSEES  IN  INDIA. 

and  with  the  intention  of  ultimately  leaving  their 
country. 

They  seem  to  have  made  their  appearance  in 
India  about  the  year  717  of  our  era  for  the  first 
time  ;  and,  in  the  history  of  that  country,  where 
they  took  or  obtained  the  name  of  Parsees,  are 
frequently  mixed  up  as  allies  of  the  Hindoos 
against  their  old  enemies  the  Mohammedans, 
although  more  frequently  as  the  objects  of  per- 
secution from  both.  They  had  conveyed  with 
them,  in  their  wanderings,  the  sacred  fire,  the 
most  precious  of  their  possessions ;  and  for  the 
last  thousand  years  the  Bombay  presidency,  or 
its  neighbourhood,  has  been  the  head-quarters  of 
this  much-persecuted  and  almost  extinct  nation. 
Under  British  rule,  however,  they  have  been 
treated  with  the  same  measure  of  justice  as  the 
Honourable  Company  deals  out  to  all  its  native 
subjects — Mohammedans,  Hindoos,  and  Parsees, 
the  jDcrsecutors  and  persecuted,  being  alike  sub- 
ject, nullo  discrimine,  to  "  Company's  law."  Nor, 
defective  as  that  law  and  its  administration  may 
be,  do  I  believe  that  they  would  prefer  to  it  the 
old  native  rule.  About  150,000  members  of  the 
community  reside  in  the  Bombay  presidency ; 
but  it  is  impossible  to  form  an  estimate  of  the 
probable  numbers  scattered  over  the  shores  of 
the  Indian  and  Pacific  Oceans,  from  Maui'itius  to 


ZOROASTER.  325 

Shanghai,  from  Sydney  to  Ormuz,  the  necessary 
data  being  completely  unattainable.* 

Zoroaster,  or  Zerdusht,  the  founder  of  the  faith 
now  held  by  the  Parsees,  was  born  about  589 
years  before  our  era,  at  a  town  called  Urmi,  a 
city  of  Azerbijan,  that  province  of  Persia  which 
Hes  south-west  of  the  Caspian  Sea.  He  is  va- 
riously called  a  Persian,  a  Mede,  and  a  Perso- 
Mede  by  ancient  writers,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
of  royal  descent.  Aliriman,  the  evil  spirit,  says 
tradition,  being  aware  of  the  future  greatness  of 
the  prophet,  united  with  the  magicians  his  ^fol- 
lowers to  try  and  destroy  him.  They  tempted 
him  and  attacked  him  openly ;  but  in  both  cases 
without  success.  He  was  under  the  protection 
of  Ormuzd,  the  spirit  of  good,  and  could  not  be 
injured.  He  was  thrown  into  fire,  but  the  fire 
had  no  power  over  him ;  he  was  beset  by  mur- 
derers, but  miraculously  escaped;  he  endured 
temptations  to  which  any  one  else  would  have 
succumbed,  but  did  not  fall.  Before  he  was 
thirty  years  of  age  he  retired  to  the  mountains, 
leaving  his  family  and  his  kindred,  as  he  declared, 
by  divine  command ;  and  a  minute  and  tedious 
account  of  liis  journey  is  given  to  us  in  the  tra- 


*  In  the  preceding  account  I  have  been  much  indebted  to  Mr.  G.  H. 
Briggs'  little  work — "  the  Parsis,  or  Modem  Zerdushtians,  a  sketch." 


326  ZOROASTER  AND  ORIVIUZD. 

ditions  of  his  life — this  account  including  mira- 
culous displays  of  the  most  extraordinary  character, 
such  as  his  walking  across  the  river  Araxe  on 
foot,  without  so  much  as  wetting  his  feet.  This 
journey  to  the  Elburz  mountains,  the  great  chain 
that  skirts  the  southern  shore  of  the  Caspian,  is 
universally  called  by  his  disciples  his  jom-ney  to 
heaven.  It  was,  whilst  in  retirement  here,  that 
he  was  first  introduced  personally  to  Ormuzd,  and 
received  from  him  the  sacred  book  of  the  faith, 
the  Zend-Avesta,  and  the  sacred  fire.  Wlien  the 
period  had  arrived  when  he  should  be  introduced 
to  Ormuzd,  says  the  Zerdusht-nameh,  or  account 
of  his  life,  Bahman,  a  spirit  radiant  as  the  sun, 
his  head  covered  with  a  veil,  appeared  before  him, 
and  asked,  "Wlio  art  thou?  Wliat  seekest 
thou?"  Zoroaster  answered,  "I  seek  only  what 
is  agreeable  to  Ormuzd,  who  has  created  the  two 
worlds ;  but  I  know  not  what  he  wants  with  me. 
0  thou,  who  art  pure,  show  me  the  way  of  the 
law."  Bahman  was  pleased  at  these  words. 
"  Else,"  said  he,  "  to  go  before  Grod ;  there  thou 
shalt  receive  the  answer  to  thy  request."  Zo- 
roaster rose  and  followed  Baliman,  who  said, 
*'  Shut  thine  eyes ;  walk  swiftly."  When  Zo- 
roaster opened  his  eyes,  he  saw  the  glory  of 
heaven.     The  angels  came  to  meet  him,  and  with 


CREED  OF  ZOROASTER.  327 

them  he  approached  Ormuzd,  to  whom  he  ad- 
dressed his  prayer.  From,  him  and  the  six  Am- 
schaspands  (the  spirits  next  to  Ormuzd  in  glory) 
he  received  his  instructions,  Ormuzd  himself  or- 
dering liim  :  "  Teach  the  nations  that  my  light  is 
hidden  under  all  that  shines.  Wlierever  you  turn 
your  face  towards  the  hght,  and  follow  my  coun- 
sel, Ahriman,  the  evil  spirit,  will  flee  from  you. 
In  this  world  there  is  nothing  superior  to  Hght." 
The  Zend-Avesta  gives  a  particular  account  of 
the  various  instructions  given  by  Ormuzd  to 
Zoroaster,  some  of  them  of  an  eminently  puerile 
character,  others  more  exalted.  "  Evil  does  not 
proceed  from  me,"  said  he,  "  but  from  Ahriman. 
My  intention  is  not  that  people  should  suffer. 
Bad  thoughts  and  bad  actions  come  from  Ahri- 
man. Sinners  are  punished  in  hell.  Those  He 
who  say  that  evil  comes  from  me." — "  Who  is 
the  best  of  your  servants?"  asked  Zoroaster. 
The  answer  was,  "  He  who  has  a  right  heart ; 
he  who  is  liberal  with  respect  to  justice,  and 
whose  eyes  do  not  wander  after  riches ;  he  who 
does  good  to  everything — to  fire,  water,  and  ani- 
mals—  wiU  be  eternaUy  happy.  Those  who 
afflict  my  servants,  and  disregard  my  precepts 
shall  be  sent  to  heU."  Zoroaster  asked  immor- 
tality of  Ormuzd;  but  was  told  that  were  it 
granted,  he  would  himself  be  the  first  to  desire 


328  ZOROASTER  AXD  AHRIMAN. 

death — that  immortahty  on  earth  would  be  eter- 
nal misery. 

He  likewise  descended  to  hell  and  saw  Ahri- 
man,  the  evil  spirit.  Words  fail  to  convey  an 
idea  of  the  hideousness  of  the  monster,  and 
doubtless  the  imagination  of  Zoroaster  was 
tasked  to  the  utmost  to  give  an  account  of  his 
appearance,  horrible  and  fearful  enough.  They 
abused  each  other  roundly,  sparing  neither  epi- 
thets of  hatred  mutually  applied,  nor  assertions ; 
but  what  the  ultimate  object  of  the  interview 
was,  does  not  appear — probably  it  was  recorded 
only  that  his  followers  might  know  something  of 
the  monster  to  whom  they  would  be  introduced 
if  they  did  not  attend  to  him. 

At  length,  armed  with  the  Zend-avesta,  the 
sacred  fire,  and  the  instructions  given  him  by 
Ormuzd,  Zoroaster  set  forth  to  declare  his 
mission  before  the  King  of  Persia,  Gushtasp — 
the  Darius  Hystaspes  of  the  Greeks,  according  to 
some  authors.  Gushtasp  listened  to  the  dis- 
course of  the  new  prophet  with  great  patience, 
for,  in  that  discourse  we  are  told,  were  some 
things  that  could  not  be  understood — in  the 
Zend-avesta  are  many  such.  The  monarch  took 
time  to  consider  the  matter,  consulted  with  the 
magicians  and  astrologers,  and  ended  his  delibera- 
tion  by   thi'owing    Zoroaster   into   prison.     An 


zoroastek's  miracles.  329 

astounding  miracle,  according  to  the  traditions 
of  his  history,  alone  relieved  the  prophet 
from  his  perilous  situation,  for  his  life  was 
in  danger.  The  favourite  black  horse  of  the 
King,  according  to  these  traditions,  was  found 
one  morning  with  its  legs  so  sunk  and  imbedded 
in  its  body  that  they  were  useless,  and  the 
animal  could  not  stand.  Physicians  and  ma- 
gicians and  astrologers  were  called  in,  but  could 
do  nothing.  The  king  was  in  despair,  for  the 
black  steed  was  a  pecuhar  favourite — he  had  no 
other  animal  that  he  liked  so  well.  At  length  a 
report  was  brought  him  that  Zoroaster  could 
cure  the  horse.  The  sage  was  brought  from 
prison,  and  soon  restored  the  charger  to  his 
master,  as  sound  and  well  proportioned  as  before. 
From  that  time,  the  teaching  of  Zoroaster 
produced  a  wonderful  impression  on  the  King. 
The  magicians  and  astrologers  were  forsaken  for 
the  new  teacher,  and  disciples  multiplied  amaz- 
ingly. In  every  part  of  the  wide  dominions 
of  Gushtasp  the  new  faith  was  preached  and 
taught  with  great  success — Zoroaster  continuing 
to  surprise  and  astound  the  court  by  exhibitions 
of  miraculous  power.  A  magnificent  temple  was 
built  at  Persepohs  to  hold  the  sacred  fire — priests 
and  high -priests  were  ordained,  and  the  entire 
machinery  of  ceremonial  religion  set  up.     Such 


330  Zoroaster's  death. 

was  tlie  enthusiasm  of  Grushtasp  himself  on  the 
subject,  that  he  ordered  twelve  thousand  cow- 
hides to  be  tanned  fine,  that  the  doctrines  of  the 
new  faith  might  be  written  upon  them.  These 
parchments  were  deposited  in  a  vault  hewn  out 
of  a  rock  in  Persepolis.  "  Holy  men  were  ap- 
pointed to  guard  the  treasures,  and  the  profane 
were  kept  at  a  distance." 

Zoroaster  was  indefatigable  in  spreading  his 
faith  in  every  direction.  He  took  repeated 
journeys  to  Chaldea,  and  seems  to  have  made 
many  disciples  in  that  direction,  and  there  is 
even  some  reason  for  believing  that  either  he  or 
some  of  his  chief  emissaries  made  their  way 
into  India.  He  was  thrice  married,  but  it  is 
said  left  only  one  daughter  alive  on  his  death. 
Certain  it  is  that  he  exerted  his  influence  with 
Grushtasp  to  spread  his  faith  by  the  sword,  and 
that  wars  were  undertaken  with  the  neighbouring 
sovereigns  that  apparently  had  no  other  object 
than  the  spreading  of  the  Zoroastrian  religion. 
He  died  about  the  year  512  or  513,  B.C.,  in  the 
76th  or  77th  year  of  his  age — nor  does  there  appear 
to  have  been  anything  remarkable  or  miraculous 
related  in  connexion  with  his  death. 

The  Zend-avesta,  or  "the  Word  in  the  Zend 
language,"  is  a  work  of  the  most  extraordinary 
prolixity  and  verbosity.     Much  as  oriental  works 


DOCTRINES  OF  ZOROASTER.  331 

generally  are  distinguished  by  vain  repetitions 
and  useless  recapitulations,  I  believe  it  is  im- 
possible for  any  to  be  more  remarkable  in  this 
respect  than  the  sacred  book  of  the  Parsees.  It 
is  no  uncommon  thing  to  find  the  same  sen- 
tence or  paragraph  repeated  a  hmidred  times  in 
the  course  of  a  few  pages,  whilst  the  accounts  of 
ablutions  and  ceremonial  observances  are  prolix 
beyond  what  those  accustomed  only  to  the  concise 
language  of  the  West  can  conceive. 

The  distinguishing  doctrines  of  Zoroaster  ap- 
pear to  have  been  his  inculcation  of  the  existence 
of  two  spirits,  both  of  vast  power  and  influence 
in  the  world,  the  one  good,  the  other  bad — Hght 
the  symbol  and  manifestation  of  the  one,  dark- 
ness of  the  other.  These  antagonistic  prin- 
ciples are  constantly  opposing  and  thwarting 
each  other,  and,  although  the  good  spirit  will 
finally  prevail,  the  struggle  between  them  is  of 
the  most  violent  character.  The  immortahty  of 
the  soul  and  the  resurrection  of  the  body  were 
both  taught  by  Zoroaster,  and  he  appears  to  have 
beheved  that  this  world,  in  some  new  and  glo- 
rified condition,  was  ultimately  destined  to  be  the 
residence  of  happy  saints.  So  constant  are  the 
references  in  the  Zend-avesta  to  "  Time  without 
end,"  and  so  earnest  the  advice  to  worship  it  and 
pay  it  all  honour,  that  one  becomes  doubtful  at 


332  TRACES  OF  FIRE- WORSHIP 

last  whether  it  be  merely  a  title  of  Ormuzd  or  a 
separate  intelligence.  Mixed  up  with  some  sub- 
lime truths  there  is  perhaps  more  absurdity  and 
obscenity  in  the  Zend-avesta  than  in  any  other 
work  in  existence  professing  to  be  a  divine  re- 
velation. It  ^vill  by  no  means  bear  comparison 
with  the  discourses  of  Grotama  Budlia  or  the 
sacred  boohs  of  the  Chinese  edited  by  Confacius. 
The  Brahminical  works  may  perhaps  vie  with  it 
in  the  unenviable  characteristics  I  have  named, 
but,  if  so,  they  alone. 

Some  very  interesting  traces  of  fire-worship 
have  been  discovered  by  Mr.  Layard  in  his  re- 
searches at  Khorsabad,  and  generally  in  the  more 
recent  sculptures  unearthed  by  him.  In  one  of 
these  groups,  a  slender  altar  is  seen  surmounted 
by  a  cone,  which,  being  painted  red,  is  probably 
emblematical  of  fire.  Before  it  stand  two  eunuchs, 
side  by  side,  with  their  right  hands  elevated — one 
of  them  carries  in  his  hand  the  mysterious  basket, 
wliicli  has  caused  so  much  conjecture.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  altar  is  a  table  covered  with  a 
table-cloth,  on  which  altar  is  laid  a  bundle  of  wood, 
probably  fragrant,  to  feed  the  flame.  Another 
representation  of  fire-worship  is  engraved  by  Mr. 
Layard  from  Kouyunjik.  Two  eunuchs  are  again 
seen  worshipping  before  the  sacred  fire  on  a  slender 
altar,  while,  behind  them,  a  man  leads  a  goat  to 


RECENTLY  DISCOVERED.  333 

tlie  sacrifice.  In  this,  as  well  as  in  tlie  Kliorsabad 
scene,  there  is  a  table  behind  the  altar,  on  which 
are  placed  objects,  that  look  Hke  bowls  containing 
fruit.  Behind  the  table  are  two  poles,  from  which 
serpents  are  suspended  by  the  neck,  carrying  on 
their  heads  an  appendage  closely  resembling  the 
conventional  ostrich-feathers,  so  generally  worn 
by  the  idols  of  Egypt.  Both  scenes  occur  in  the 
interior  of  a  fortified  camp,  but  that  appears  to  be 
an  accidental  circumstance. 

The  appearance  of  the  Parsee,  as  I  have  said, 
strikes  a  stranger  in  the  East  at  once  as  remark- 
able. His  fine  aquiline  nose,  with  well-developed 
nostrils,  his  large  black  eyes,  his  well-turned  chin, 
his  unusual  length  of  ear,  together  with  his  heavy 
eyebrows  and  sensual  lips,  all  mark  him  out  as  dif- 
ferent from  the  other  Asiatics  by  whom  he  is  sur- 
rounded, and  stamp  him  with  a  distinctive  cha- 
racter. He  is  taller,  larger,  and  heavier  in 
physical  formation  too  than  the  Hindu  or 
Singhalese.  When  young,  the  Parsee  female  is 
often  handsome,  but  age  comes  on  rapidly, 
making  her  somewhat  gross  in  appearance  for 
the  most  part,  and  often  producing  a  corpulence 
that  induces  a  waddhng  species  of  gait.  Her 
luxuriant  hafr  is  bound  with  a  handkerchief, 
called  a  peivan,  that  often  forms  a  becoming 
and   picturesque   head-dress.      If  there   be   one 


334  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  PA  USEES. 


1 


point  in  which  the  women  of  the  East  excel 
their  fairer  sisters  of  the  West,  it  is  in  the 
silky  softness  of  their  hair.  E  •.'"en  in  the  lowest 
ranks  this  advantage  is  apparent,  and,  doubt- 
less, in  the  higher,  is  the  more  strikingly  so ; 
European  females  too,  the  daughters  of  European 
parents,  brought  up  in  early  childhood  in  India, 
are  superior  in  this  respect  to  their  occidental 
sisters.  Doubtless,  the  result  is  caused  by  the 
greater  care  taken  of  the  hair  in  infancy  in  the 
East,  and  the  superiority  of  the  Oriental  manner 
of  attending  to  it.  The  Parsee  men,  like  the  Mo- 
hammedans of  India  and  Ceylon,  shave  the  head, 
wearing  the  moustache  universally,  a  few  of  them 
whiskers,  and  the  priesthood  only  cultivating 
beards  and  permitting  the  hair  of  the  head  to 
remain. 

Many  of  the  Parsees  are  as  fair  as  Europeans, 
although  invariably  with  the  sallow  tint  which 
long  residence  in  the  East  gives  to  all,  instead 
of  the  ruddy  glow  of  more  temperate  regions. 
In  disposition  they  are  inchned  to  joyfulness, 
generally  sprightly,  often  jocose ;  benevolent, 
and  impulsive  in  their  benevolence ;  fond  of  en- 
tertainments and  of  good  living.  Eew  are  more 
critical  respecting  curries  and  other  Oriental 
dishes  than  the  Parsee,  and  few  understand 
more   thoroughly  the  mysteries  of  the  cuisine. 


PAKSEE  LADIES.  335 

Indeed  every  form  of  sensual  enjoyment,  as  is 
the  case  mth  most  Asiatics,  is  dear  to  the  fire- 
worshippers,  although  they  are,  generally  speak- 
ing, more  refined  in  many  respects  than  the 
natives  by  whom  they  are  surrounded. 

Parsee  ladies  are  intrusted  with  the  entire 
economy  of  the  household,  nor  would  it  be  con- 
sidered more  seemly  amongst  them,  than  amongst 
Europeans,  to  have  the  domestic  management 
taken  out  of  their  hands.  They  are  said  to  be 
thrifty,  precise,  and  provident.  For  the  most 
part  they  are  better  instructed  than  Asiatic 
women  generally — few  of  them  being  im^able  to 
read  and  write  one  language  at  least.  They  are 
dexterous  in  embroidery,  and  are  often  conversant 
with  working  in  wool,  principally  of  an  orna- 
mental character.  They  are  permitted  much 
more  liberty  than  formerly.  Mr.  Briggs  says, 
that  in  Bombay,  "  they  are  even  permitted  to  go 
abroad  in  open  carriages,"*  although  such  is  cer- 
tainly not  the  case  in  Ceylon  or  in  Calcutta,  but 
they  receive,  with  pleasure,  visits  from  European 
ladies,  and  will  return  them  in  close  covered  car- 
riages, when  they  are  aware  that  the  ladies  are 
careful  not  to  violate  their  prejudices  by  bringing 
them  into  contact  with  foreign  male  humanity. 

"  The  Parsee  commences  the  day  by  eating  a 

*  The  Parsis,  or  Modern  Zurdushtians,  p.  19. 


336  HABITS  OF  THE  PARSEES. 

light  breakfast,  often  no  more  than  a  slice  or  two 
of  bread,  and  of  several  cups  of  tea,  which  he 
drinks  off  with  a  handkerchief  apphed  to  the 
piece  of  pottery  (to  prevent  it  touching  his  hps). 
His  dinner  is  taken  between  twelve  and  two 
o'clock  during  the  day,  and  is  served  in  pohshed 
plates  of  brass — ^large  quantities  of  rice  are  then 
consumed  with  curry,  along  with  a  variety  of 
pungent  ingredients,  ground  into  chitni  (chutnee), 
stews,  &c.  By  tradesfolks  and  the  better  classes 
of  the  community,  a  cup  or  more  of  tea  is  par- 
taken of,  either  at  four  or  five  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  The  evening  meal  occurs  between 
eight  and  ten  o'clock,  when  license  is  given,  not 
only  to  beverages  of  variety  and  strength,  but 
also  to  the  use  of  hbidinous  speech.  The  tat  is 
the  great  parting  draught  of  the  night,  not  unlike 
the  stirrup-cup  of  yore,  and  the  more  recent  Scot- 
tish form  of  auld-lang-syne." 

I  may  conclude  this  short  sketch  of  the  Parsees 
by  remarking,  that  one  wife  is  believed  by  most  of 
them  to  be  the  correct  allowance,  but  that  bigamy 
nevertheless  is  often  practised,  and  unlimited  con- 
cubinage almost  universal  amongst  them. 


INTELLIGENT  PAKSEE.  337 


CHAPTEE  XI. 

HORMANJEE. 

"  The  current  that,  with  gentle  murmur,  glides, 

Thou  know'st,  being  stopp'd,  impatiently  doth  rage  ; 

But  when  his  fair  course  is  not  hindered. 

He  makes  sweet  music  with  th'  enamell'd  stones. 

Giving  a  gentle  kiss  to  every  sedge 

He  overtaketh  in  his  pilgrimage  ; 
.    And  so  by  many  winding  nooks  he  strays. 

With  willing  sport,  to  the  wild  ocean. 

Then  let  me  go,  and  hinder  not  my  course  ; 

I'll  be  as  patient  as  a  gentle  stream. 

And  make  a  pastime  of  each  weary  step. 

Till  the  last  step  have  brought  me  to  my  love ; 

And  there  I'll  rest,  as,  after  much  turmoil, 

A  blessed  soul  doth  in  Elysium." 

Two  Gentlemen  of  Verona,  act  ii.,  sc.  7. 

During  my  frequent  visits  to  Colombo,  I  became 
acquainted  with  a  very  estimable  Parsee  mer- 
chant, named  Hormanjee — a  man  so  superior  even 
to  his  own  countrymen,  in  Kberality  of  sentiment 
and  unaifected  admiration  for  everything  excel- 
lent and  praiseworthy,  that  I  felt  esteem  for 
him  the  first  time  that  I  met  him  at  my  uncle's 
office.  My  visits  to  Colombo  enabled  me  to 
VOL.  I.  Q 


338  STOKY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

cultivate  his  friendship,  and  wliilst  I  talked  to 
Marandhan  of  Bndhism  and  its  founder,  I  talked 
similarly  to  Hormanjee  of  Zoroaster  and  his 
faith.  At  length  he  accepted  an  invitation  I 
had  repeatedly  given  him  to  visit  me  in  the 
jungle,  and  higlily  interesting  and  intellectual 
were  liis  meetings  and  discussions  with  my 
Budhist  friend  Marandlian.  Never  did  the  neat 
little  bungalow  which  Eoquelaire  had  fitted  up 
with  so  much  taste,  appear  so  comfortable  to  me, 
as  when  I  had  my  Parsee  and  my  Budhistic 
friend  on  either  hand — both  men  of  intelligence 
and  of  reflection — both  men  who  had  seen  the 
world,  and  thought  much  of  what  they  saw. 
Their  conversation  was  an  intellectual  treat  of  no 
ordinary  character. 

During  Hormanjee's  stay  with  me,  I  persuaded 
him  to  give  me  an  account  of  his  life,  which 
I  took  care  shortly  afterwards  to  transcribe. 

"  I  was  born  in  Calcutta,"  he  began ;  "  my 
father  Manuckjee,  was  a  merchant  there  of  some 
note,  and  I  was  early  initiated  into  the  mysteries 
of  the  counting-house.  He  saw  Httle  of  European 
society,  for  the  Anglo-Indian  population  of  Cal- 
cutta, and  indeed  of  India  generally,  is  less 
condescending  to  Orientals  than  their  poorer 
brethren  in  Ceylon.  Our  house  in  the  Circular 
Road,  to  the  east  of  the  town,  was  a  large  one 


STORY   OF   nORMANJEE.  339 

with  a  spacious  garden  attacliecl,  a  tank  or  pond 
and  statuary  ornamented  the  garden,  and  several 
beautiful  groves  of  trees.  For  a  time  my  boyish 
life  was  one  of  great  happiness  and  content,  for  m}^ 
mother  was  a  superior  woman  and  early  trained 
me  to  piety  and  reflection.  As  I  became  ac- 
quainted with  the  various  productions  of  different 
countries  however,  and  read  works  describing 
travels  and  voyages,  my  mind  began  to  expand, 
and  I  ardently  longed  to  see  something  of  the 
world  of  which  I  heard  and  read  so  much.  I 
became  discontented  with  the  narrow  circle  in 
which  I  moved,  and  longed  to  explore  the  won- 
ders of  the  West  particularly.  My  parents, 
and  especially  my  mother,  were  by  no  means 
prepared  to  forward  my  wishes  in  tliis  respect, 
and  I  became  gloomy  in  consequence.  At 
length,  wdth  womanly  tact,  when  I  had  passed 
my  sixteenth  year,  she  endeavoured  to  divert  my 
mind  from  ideas  of  foreign  travel  by  the  gentle 
but  all-powerful  influence  of  love. 

"  One  evening  as  I  was  walking  in  a  discon- 
tented mood,  through  the  groves  of  our  garden,  I 
heard  a  sweet  melodious  voice  singing  a  hymn  to 
the  sun,  accompanied  by  the  lute,  the  sounds 
issuing  from  an  alcove  at  some  distance,  which 
was  generally  set  apart  for  the  female  portion 
of  our  household.     I  stopped  and  Hstened  atten- 

q2 


340  STORY  OF  H0RMA2fJEE, 

tively.  I  had  certainly  never  heard  that  voice 
before — it  was  completely  new  to  me,  and  whilst 
its  melody  enchanted  me  its  novelty  equally 
excited  my  curiosity.  I  walked  quietly  over  the 
grass  leading  to  the  bower.  A  low  shrubbery 
alone  intervened  between  me  and  the  open  alcove, 
in  which  a  party  of  ladies  were  seated.  My 
mother  and  my  favourite  sister  were  there,  but 
the  majority  I  had  never  seen  before.  The  alcove 
was  completely  open  ;  several  gothic  arches  were 
supported  by  graceful  stone  pillars  made  as  light 
as  possible,  round  which  fragrant  creepers  were 
entwined,  until  they  reached  the  roof,  where  they 
united  into  a  thick  mass  of  leaves  and  flowers. 
The  party  within  consisted  of  five  ladies,  of  whom 
tliree  were  utterly  miknown  to  me.  I  was  sur- 
prised at  tliis,  as  you  are  aware  that  we  Parsees 
practise  no  concealment  of  our  females  like  the 
Mohammedans  or  Hindoos,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
approve  of  their  mingling,  to  a  certain  extent, 
with  all  of  our  own  creed.  I  had  seen  then, 
I  thought,  all  the  Parsee  ladies  in  Calcutta  of  any 
pretensions  to  wealth,  and  yet  here  were  three,  a 
mother  and  two  daughters  apparently,  who,  to 
judge  by  their  dress,  must  have  been  extremely 
wealthy,  who  in  fact  must  have  been  our  equals, 
or  I  should  never  have  seen  them  there. 

"  In  the  centre  of  the  alcove  stood  a  small  marble 


STORY  OF  HORMAXJEE.  341 

pedestal  of  no  great  height,  on  wliich  it  had  been 
originally  intended  to  place  a  statue,  but  through 
some  inadvertence  or  caprice,  it  had  been  left  unoc- 
cupied. Upon  this  the  youthful  songstress  stood 
as  she  addressed  the  beneficent  Ormuzd,  with  the 
fervour  and  grace  of  youth  and  purity.  Her 
form,  which  was  but  beginning  to  mould  itself 
into  the  rich  fulness  of  womanhood,  was  beauti- 
fully displayed  by  her  close-fitting  vest  and  wide 
trowsers,  and  as  she  stood  gazing  into  heaven,  it 
formed  a  striking  contrast  with  the  group  seated 
at  her  feet.  The  Hght  fell  full  upon  her  delicate 
face  and  picturesque  head-dress — a  head-dress,  a,s 
you  must  be  aware,  equally  removed  firom  the 
clumsiness  of  the  turban  and  the  unmeaning  ugli- 
ness of  the  European  bonnet.  A  single  feather 
drooped  gracefully  upon  her  shoulder,  its  un- 
sulhed  whiteness  forming  a  picturesque  contrast 
with  the  black  shining  hair  wliich  escaped  in  rich 
braids  beneath  her  cap.  The  lute,  leaning  lightly 
on  her  left  arm,  wliich  was  bare,  after  our  custom, 
from  above  the  elbow,  was  of  satin-wood  inlaid  with 
mother-of-pearl,  and  as  she  swept  her  delicately 
small  fingers  over  its  chords,  her  voice  gave  utter- 
ance to  such  sounds  as  the  nightingale  warbles 
when  she  would  attract  her  mate  and  call  him 
home  from  wandering.  Such  was  the  position, 
such  were  the  circumstances  under  which  I  first 


342  STOKY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

saw  Amoosta.  Can  you  wonder  then  that  I 
should  have  been  smitten  with  love  at  once, 
or  that  I  should  have  inwardly  vowed,  with 
Oriental  impetuosity,  that  she,  and  she  only, 
should  be  the  wife  of  Hormanjee  ?  The  hymn  or 
invocation  ended,  she  leaped  hghtly  upon  the 
floor,  smiling  with  a  bewitching  charm  that  com- 
pleted in  my  mind  the  fascination  which  her 
features,  her  attitude,  and  her  song  had  com- 
menced. Her  sister  then  attempted  a  similar 
piece,  but  I  had  no  eyes,  no  ears  for  any  one  but 
Amoosta.  She  placed  herself  beside  her  mother, 
and  as  she  gazed  upwards  at  the  performer,  her 
face  caught  a  new  beauty  from  the  shade  into 
which  it  was  now  thrown.  She  had  applause  and 
commendation  for  all — there  v/as  no  reserve,  no 
lingering  jealousy  in  the  hearty  plaudits  she 
bestowed  upon  the  performance  of  her  two  more 
youthful  companions. 

"  It  would  have  been  rude  and  impudent  to 
interrupt  the  ladies'  privacy  upon  such  an  occa- 
sion. So  I  contented  myself  with  feasting  my 
eyes  to  the  full,  until  the  approach  of  night  drove 
the  fair  worshippers  into  the  house ;  and  shortly 
afterwards  I  saw  a  close  carriage,  such  as  Parses 
ladies  are  accustomed  to  use  in  Calcutta,  drive 
away  from  the  female  quarter  of  our  dwelling.  I 
subsequently  learned  that  the  wife  and  daughters 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE,  343 

of  Halbin  Kowasjee  had  just  before  this  become 
residents  of  Calcutta,  on  his  transferring  thither 
the  head-quarters  of  his  celebrated  mercantile 
house  from  Canton, — a  house  as  well  known  in 
the  East,  as  that  of  the  Eothschilds'  in  the  West. 
Amoosta  was  then  the  daughter  of  the  great 
Kowasjee,  my  mother  was  evidently  intimately 
acquainted  with  her  and  with  her  mother,  and  I 
saw  no  reason  why  I  should  not  succeed  in  bear- 
ing off  this  great  prize  as  my  bride.  I  mentioned 
the  matter  to  my  parents.  My  mother  was  de- 
lighted, and  confessed  to  me  that  she  had  hoped 
for  this.  The  very  means  she  had  taken  to  keep 
me  at  home,  however,  resulted  in  sending  me 
abroad  to  see  the  world. 

"  The  intimacy  between  the  two  famihes  ripened 
into  a  friendship,  and  at  length  the  matter  was  men- 
tioned to  the  parents  of  Amoosta.  They  were  weU 
pleased  with  the  proposal,  for  Amoosta  had  ex- 
hibited a  very  heretical  predilection  in  favour  of 
Enghshmen,  and  was  known  to  have  frequently 
spoken  contemptuously  of  the  young  men  of  her 
own  nation  and  faith.  Her  parents  hoped,  there- 
fore, that  her  wild  ideas  would  end  with  her  mar- 
riage, and  that  the  comparatively  cultivated  and 
polite  Parsee  of  Calcutta  might  be  more  acceptable 
to  her,  than  his  more  unlettered  comitrymen  in 
China.  When  her  mother  mentioned  it  to  the 
maiden,  however,  as  the  marriage  which  they  had 


344  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

decided  upon  for  her,  she,  with  great  perverse- 
ness,  insisted  upon  regarding  it  only  as  a  propo- 
sition that  had  nothing  definite  in  it,  and  was 
never  hkely  to  be  reahzed.  At  length,  when 
pressed  upon  the  subject,  and  when  she  saw 
that  her  father  and  mother  had  both  firmly 
set  their  minds  upon  it,  she  told  them  they 
might  sacrifice  her,  if  they  so  willed,  that  she  was 
bound  to  obey  their  commands,  and  she  would  do 
so,  even  though  she  went  to  certain  misery,  but 
that,  if  she  were  allowed  a  private  interview  with 
Hormanjee,  of  only  a  few  minutes  duration,  he 
would  no  longer  seek  her  hand,  and  yet  she  should 
tell  him  nothing  but  the  truth.  '  0  Zardusht !' 
exclaimed  old  Kowasjee,  '  how  wilful  the  maiden 
is  !  This  comes  of  teaching  girls  to  read.  Rightly 
does  the  Zend-avesta  declare,  that  the  wild  roes 
of  the  mountains  may  he  tamed,  the  mules  of  Tar- 
lary  made  to  hear  burdens,  the  zehras  of  Africa 
converted  hito  gentle  palfreys,  hut  the  wilful  heart 
of  a  maid  who  has  set  her  mind  on  folly,  is  not  to 
he  turned  hy  gentle  entreaty  or  rude  opposition. 
Hormanjee  is  a  lad  of  sense,  however ;  I  shall  pre- 
pare him  for  the  interview,  and  though  it  some- 
what violates  etiquette,  she  shall  have  her  wish, 
and  I  will  myself  present  their  first-born  before 
the  Amschaspands,  and  the  throne.'* 

*  The  throne  of  Ormuzd ;  the  Amschaspands,  according  to  Zoroaster, 
are  six  great  spirits  surrounding  that  throne. 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  345 

"  An  interview  of  the  kind  required  by  Amoosta, 
was  of  an  unprecedented  character  in  Parsee  life, 
and  it  was  not  without  many  misgivings  that  my 
mother  at  length  consented  to  it.  As  for  me, 
nothing  could  equal  my  anxiety  to  know  what 
revelation  she  had  to  make  to  me,  nothing  could 
be  stronger  than  my  determination,  after  Kowas- 
jee's  lecture,  to  persevere  in  making  her  my  wife — 
nothing,  but  my  love  for  her.  It  was  before  the 
altar  on  which  we  sacrificed  to  Zoroaster,  that  the 
decisive  interview  took  place.  Amoosta  was  ra- 
diant as  a  bride,  and  the  sorrow  and  shame  which 
contended  in  her  countenance,  rendered  her  only 
the  more  enchanting,  whilst  on  my  side,  I  had 
spared  no  pains  with  my  toilet,  to  prove  to  her 
that  even  a  Parsee  might  look  well.  She  saluted 
me  with  a  low  salaam,  and  I  returned  it  with  all 
the  grace  of  which  I  was  master.  Then  advancing 
towards  me,  and  looking  me  full  in  the  face,  as 
though  her  large  blue  eyes  would  pierce  through 
me,  sparkling  as  they  were  with  excitement ;  she 
extended  her  hand  to  me,  after  the  manner  of  you 
Occidentals.  I  put  it  gently  to  my  lips,  as  I  had 
read  gallant  men  did  in  the  West,  and  then,  to 
express  my  love,  I  faintly  pressed  and  shook  it. 
'  Hormanjee,'  said  she,  smiling,  *I  am  sui-e  you 
would  not  render  me  wretched.'  '  No,'  said  I, 
'  by  om'  holy  prophet,  Amoosta,   I  would  make 

q3 


346  STORY  OF  HORMANJEE. 

you  happy,  rather  than  anything  else  in  this 
world.'  '  Then  do  not  marry  me,  Hormanjee,' 
she  said  quickly,  at  the  same  time  taking  my 
hand  in  both  of  hers, — '  do  not  marry  me,  and 
putting  maiden  modesty  aside,  I  will  kiss  you — 
I  will  kiss  you  fondly,  Hormanjee.'  I  knew  not 
what  to  say.  Kowasjee  and  his  admonitions  were 
quite  forgotten,  and,  even  when  she  looked  most 
enchanting,  and  was  taking  the  very  means  to 
make  me  love  her  more,  I  resolved  to  resign  her. 
'  You  hate  me  then?'  I  asked.  *  Oh,  no,  no, 
no,  indeed  I  do  not, — I  do  not,  Hormanjee, — ^in- 
deed I  do  not,'  and  as  she  thus  earnestly  ex- 
claimed, she  burst  into  a  flood  of  tears.  I  threw 
my  arm  round  her  slight  figure,  and  pressed  her 
to  my  bosom.  '  You  love  some  one  else?'  I 
asked,  whilst  I  kissed  her  smooth  fair  forehead, 
as  it  reclined  upon  my  shoulder.  '  No,  Hor- 
manjee,' she  repHed  again,  looking  into  my  eyes, 
from  the  azure  depths  of  her  own, — *  no,  Hor- 
manjee, indeed  I  do  not.'  *  Then  why  do  you 
not  want  me  to  marry  you  ?'  *  It  is  a  secret,' 
she  whispered,  looking  down  upon  the  floor. 
'  A  secret,  Amoosta,  and  may  I  not  know  it, — 
you  cannot  tell  it  me,  perhaps.'  I  pitied  her 
much,  for  she  wept  bitterly.  '  Yes,  yes,  I  can 
tell  you,'  she  hastily  exclaimed ;  '  but  you  will 
never  tell  my  parents,  or  any  one  who  will,  or 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 


347 


who  may,  tell  my  parents,'  she  added,  after  a 
pause.  '  I  will  never  tell  it  to  a  living  soul.  I 
swear,  Amoosta,  by  Zarduslit  himself,  never  shall 
it  be  breathed  by  me,  unless  you  yourself  release 
me  from  my  oath.'  So  saying,  I  bent  my  fore- 
head upon  the  altar.  *  I  took  a  vow,'  said  she, 
*  not  very  long  ago,  never  to  wed  one  who  had 
not  crossed  the  great  ocean — who  had  not  seen  that 
wonderful  West,  whence  the  strong  rulers  of  the 
East  come ;  time  was,  when  the  East  ruled  the 
West,  and  still  it  does  intellectually,  for  we  have 
given  them  a  philosophy  and  a  religion,  false  as 
both  may  be,  but  the  West  now  rules  the  East 
with  the  strong  hand,  and  the  man  who  has  not 
seen  these  strong  men  in  their  own  country,  who 
has  not  crossed  the  seas  as  they  do,  shall  never  be 
the  husband  of  Amoosta.'  '  Beloved  Amoosta,' 
I  exclauned,  '  your  desires  and  my  own  are 
identical.  I  too,  have  longed  to  see  these  rulers 
of  the  world  in  their  own  homes,  to  pry  into  the 
secret  of  then-  power.  I  have  demanded  per- 
mission to  go,  times  without  nmnber.  Now  your 
wishes  shall  be  accomplished,  and  I  shall  retui-n 
two  years  hence  to  claim  my  bride.  Is  it  not  so, 
Amoosta?'  '  Yes,  Hormanjee,'  she  whispered, 
'  let  it  be  so,  for  I  love  you  as  woman  only  can 
love.  But  remember,  not  a  word  of  my  vow,' 
and  so,  imprinting  a  kiss  upon  my  hand,  before  I 


348  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

could  anticipate  it,  she  left  me  alone  by  the  altar 
of  the  prophet. 

"  Kowasjee  and  my  father,  were  equally  anxious 
to  know  the  result  of  the  unwonted  conference. 
'  Kowasjee,  thou  art  my  father,'  said  I,  touching 
his  robe  with  respect,  '  but  this  marriage  may  not 
be  for  years — for  two  years  at  least.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  I  will  ask  for  Amoosta's  hand.' 
'  Did  you  not  say  he  was  near  seventeen  years  of 
age?'  asked  Kowasjee.  My  father  assented. 
'  And  she  is  fifteen, — marvellous  truly  are  the 
councils  of  the  foolish.  To  think  that  at  our  age 
we  should  have  been  thus  duped !  We  should 
have  wedded  and  bedded  them,  and  I  warrant  me 
there  would  have  been  no  more  talk  of  putting 
off.  ^Qiy  did  we  not  remember,  that  as  geese 
hatch  goslings,  even  so  will  folly  be  the  result  of 
the  conference  of  a  youth  and  of  a  maiden, — if, 
indeed,  she  be  still — .'  '-This  must  surely  be 
some  idle  wliim,'  said  my  father,  interrupting 
him.  '  Does  Amoosta  consent  to  this  postpone- 
ment?' '  She  wishes  it  lil^e  myself,'  I  repHed. 
'  I  warrant  it,  she  does,'  said  her  father,  '  were 
there  any  wisdom  in  it,  she  would  oppose  it  with 
all  her  might.  Adieu,  Manuckjee, — it  is  like 
eating  sour  mangoes,  to  hear  that  youth  talking. 
Amoosta  shall  wed  six  months  hence  at  furthest, 
or  I  shall  know  why  not.     I  cannot  afford  to 


STOKY  OF  HORMANJEE.  349 

wait  three  years  for  a  grandson.  Adieu,  Ma- 
nuckjee,  adieu.  As  for  you,  Sir,'  he  said,  turning 
to  me,  '  there  is  a  new  lunatic  asyhim,  not  yet 
full,  I  hear,  in  Sealdah, — you  had  better  enquire 
about  it.' 

"  In  a  month,  all  my  preparations  for  departure 
to  England  had  been  made.  I  was  at  length  to 
see  that  western  world  I  had  sighed  after  and 
longed  to  witness  so  frequently.  The  parting 
with  my  parents  and  my  sister  was  a  melancholy 
one,  for  they  looked  upon  me  as  doomed;  they 
considered  it  impossible  that  I  should  ever  return 
in  safety.  For  my  own  part,  I  did  not  leave 
them  with  that  equanimity  with  which  I  had 
anticipated  I  should.  My  heart  was  sad,  and  it 
was  not  without  a  foreboding  of  disaster  and 
misery  that  I  left  my  father's  roof  The  vessel 
in  which  I  was  to  sail  to  Mocha  was  an  English 
one,  consigned  to  our  own  house,  and  in  which, 
therefore,  I  had  every  reason  to  expect  attention 
and  as  much  comfort  as  a  merchant-ship  can 
usually  afford.  The  captain  was  a  good  sailor, 
but,  otherwise,  uncultivated,  and  looked  upon  me 
more  as  an  extraordinary  animal  of  great  value, 
which  he  was  carefully  to  deliver  up  in  a  sound 
and  safe  condition  to  the  agents  at  Mocha,  than 
as  a  human  being  like  himself,  capable  of  being 
an  acquaintance  or  a  companion.     I  had  a  cabin 


350  STOKY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

to  myself,  my  own  servant,  and  every  attention 
was  paid  to  me,  in  order  that  I  should  feel  myself 
as  much  at  home  as  possible.  My  meals,  dif- 
fering, of  course,  slightly  as  they  did  from  those 
of  the  officers  and  two  European  passengers,  were 
served  separately ;  but  I  always  joined  the  party 
in  the  saloon  after  dinner  at  wine,  and  found  the 
free  conversation  wliich  then  prevailed  both 
amusing  and  instructive.  On  the  first  night 
only  during  which  we  were  actually  at  sea  did  I 
find  myself  brought  into  any  unpleasant  collision 
with  anyone  on  board ;  and  I  mention  the  inci- 
dent in  order  to  show  the  contrast  between  my 
ideas  and  actions  on  leaving  India  and  those 
wliich  I  insensibly  acquired,  and  became  accus- 
tomed to,  in  England.  Whilst  we  were  in  the 
river,  I  generally  retu'ed  early,  getting  up  equally 
early  in  the  morning,  in  order  to  present  my 
usual  adorations  to  the  sun,  which  I  was  com- 
pelled to  offer  up  on  deck,  as  my  cabin  was  upon 
the  starboard  side,  and  I  could  not  see  him  rise 
from  it.  When  we  were  actually  at  sea,  how- 
ever, and  I  could  gaze  around  our  vessel  upon 
every  side  without  seeing  land,  I  sat  up  to  write 
to  Amoosta,  for  my  mother  had  promised  to  be  a 
medium  of  communication  between  us,  and  I  re- 
solved to  give  her  a  full  account  of  my  journey 
and  my  impressions.     Ten  o'clock,  or  four  bells, 


STORY   OF  HORMANJEE.  351 

had  struck,  and  shortly  after  a  seaman  rapped  at 
my  door.  *  Come  in,'  said  I.  '  Ten  o'clock,  Sir/ 
said  he;  'must  put  out  the  Hghts.'  I  smiled  at 
his  talking  so  indiiFerently  of  what  we  regard  as 
a  heinous  crime — to  extinguish  by  any  sacri- 
legious act  the  very  emblem  and  embodiment  of 
the  Deity  upon  earth.  '  My  lamp  will  not  bum 
much  longer,'  said  I;  'but  I  cannot  put  it  out/ 
*  It's  the  rules  of  the  ship,  Sir,  and  the  captain's 
orders.  All  the  lights  to  be  out  at  ten  o'clock. 
The  hght  must  be  put  out,  Sir.'  '  The  hght 
must  not  be  put  out  in  my  presence,  or  with  my 
consent,'  I  rephed,  with  some  warmth ;  '  nor  had 
I  any  idea  the  captain  would  have  either  urged 
or  permitted  such  an  insult  to  me  as  to  talk  of 
it/  '  Oh,  far  from  insulting  you.  Sir,  he  gave  us 
all  orders  to  do  our  utmost  to  make  you  com- 
fortable, and  to  show  you  every  respect ;  but  this 
is  the  rules  of  the  ship,  you  know.'  '  I  have 
nothing  to  do  with  the  rules  of  the  ship,'  said  I, 
testily.  '  Begosh,  but  you  have,  Sir,  as  long  as 
you're  in  it,'  he  urged.  '  It's  contrary  to  my 
rehgion ;  it  would  be  a  crime  if  I  either  did  it 
myself,  or  suffered  it  to  be  done  in  my  presence/ 
said  I ;  '  leave  me,  and  I  will  talk  to  the  captain 
about  it  to-morrow.'  A  new  Hght  seemed  to 
break  in  upon  the  honest  seaman  as  I  said  this, 
and   he   muttered   something   to   himself  about 


352  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

seeing  how  it  was ;  he  evidently  thought  I  was 
mad.  How  strange  that  it  should  ever  be  thus 
with  mankind ;  that  the  sincerest  and  most 
honest  convictions  of  one  portion  of  the  human 
race  should  be  looked  upon  as  absurdities  and 
madness  by  another !  The  seaman,  after  a  mo- 
ment's hesitation,  advanced  to  the  table,  and  was 
about  to  seize  the  lamp,  or  to  extinguish  it,  when 
I  prevented  him,  by  putting  it  quickly  aside- 
'You  shall  not  put  out  that  light,'  said  I,  'till 
you  have  killed  me ;'  and  so  saying,  I  grasped  a 
stout  walking-stick  which  was  near,  and  placed 
myself  in  front  of  it.  '  0,  well,'  said  the  sailor, 
'  if  you're  goin'  to  be  obstropelous  hke  that,  I'll 
send  down  the  officer  of  the  watch.'  So  saying, 
he  left  the  cabin.  I  never  heard  any  more  about 
my  light,  nor  was  any  attempt  made,  for  the 
future,  to  prevent  my  burning  it  as  I  pleased ; 
although  I  generally  contrived  so  to  trim  the 
lamp  as  that  it  should  expire  a  little  after  ten. 
The  sailors,  however,  from  that  day  forth,  re- 
garded me  as  insane,  and  many  were  the  whis- 
pered conversations  I  noticed  amongst  them  as  I 
paced  the  quarter-deck. 

"  The  captain's  estimate  of  me,  as  a  species  of 
curiosity,  was  not  much  more  flattering  than  the 
seamen's  idea  of  my  insanity.  I  frequently  went 
up  to  the  main-top,  particularly  in  the  mornings, 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  353 

when  that  horrid  operation  of  washing  the  decks 
rendered  any  refuge  at  a  distance  agreeable ;  be- 
sides that,  from  the  elevation  of  the  main-top,  an 
excellent  view  could  be  obtained  of  the  rising 
sun.  On  such  occasions,  I  noticed  that  I  was 
invariably  followed  by  a  seaman,  who,  whilst  he 
pretended  to  have  some  employment  in  my  im- 
mediate vicinity,  kept  liis  eye  constantly  upon 
me.  For  some  days  I  took  no  notice  of  this 
extraordinary  Mentor ;  but  at  length,  when  it 
became  quite  apparent  that  the  man  had  really 
nothing  to  do  but  to  watch  me,  I  asked  him  on 
one  occasion  whether  he  always  worked  in  that 
spot  in  the  mornings.  He  was  an  Irishman,  and 
liis  strange  method  of  speaking,  which  I  could 
understand  with  difficulty  only,  interested  me. 
'  Why  thin  now,  your  honour's  highness,  but  it's 
splicin'  a  rope  I  am,'  said  he.  '  But  have  you  a 
rope  to  sphce  here  every  morning  at  this  time?* 
I  asked.  '  Och,  shure  and  there's  always  a  power 
to  do  that  a  way  on  boord  ship,  your  highness,' 
he  answered,  still  working  away  with  imper- 
turbable coolness.  '  But  do  the  ropes  always 
want  spHcing  here,  man?'  I  asked  pointedly. 
'Are  they  always  breaking  about  the  main-top, 
and  about  the  main-top  only,  that  you  come 
here  regularly  every  morning  when  I  am  here, 
and  only  when  I'm  here?'     *  Shure  thin  now,  and 


354  STORY   OF  HORMANJEE. 

your  honour's  highness  is  as  'cute  as  a  weasel,' 
he  urged.  'Begor,  it  'd  be  as  aisy  to  bate 
Banagher  himself,  as  to  bate  your  honour's  high- 
ness any  way;  and  shure  enough  we  all  know 
who  the  same  Banagher  bate.'  I  could  not  help 
smiling  at  the  ingenuity  wdth  which  he  avoided 
my  question;  but,  determined  to  explore  the 
matter,  I  repeated  it  nearly  in  the  same  words. 
'Why,  thin  now,'  he  began,  'the  divil  a  use  it 
is  at  all  at  all  to  thry  and  desave  your  honour's 
highness ;  he  'd  be  a  mighty  cliver  boy  intirely 
that  'd  catch  your  highness  dozing,  even  with  one 
eye  shut;  but  I  hope  your  honour's  highness 
is'nt  angry  at  my  comin'  here ;  shure  an'  now 
I'll  sing  you  a  song,  or  do  anything  in  rason,  to 
make  myself  agreeable.'  'You  will  not  tell  me, 
then,  why  you  follow  me  here?'  I  asked  again, 
but  this  time  dryly  and  coldly.  '  "Wliy  thin,  tare 
an'  ages,  but  to  be  shure  I  will,  if  so  be  your 
highness  wants  it ;  shure  it  is'nt  goia'  to  be 
angry  with  me  you'd  be,  for  obeyin'  the  capting's 
own  orders.'  '  The  captain,  then,  ordered  you  to 
follow  me  whenever  I  came  aloft ;  and  for  what 
purpose  ?'  I  asked.  '  Wliy  thin,  now  your  high- 
ness, but  shure  you're  goin'  on  at  the  rate  of  a 
hunt.  Sorra'  one  o'  me  ever  said  the  capting 
ordered  me  to  follow  you ;  tlio'  for  the  matter 
o*  that,  pm'shum'  to  the  he  it'd  be  afther  all.' 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  355 

'  The  captain,  then,  did  order  yon  to  follow  me 
up  here?'  I  urged.  '  0,  begor  he  did,  your  high- 
ness ;  now  that  you've  found  it  out,  I  don't  mind 
tellin'  you  all  about  it,  an'  makin'  a  clane  breast 
of  it,  at  onst,'  he  said  com'ageously.  A  rupee 
still  further  opened  his  hps,  and  he  proceeded. 
'  Why  thin,  the  long  and  the  short  of  it's  jist 
this.  "  Thady,"  says  the  capting  to  me ;  "Thady," 
says  he.  "Ay,  ay,  your  honour,"  says  I.  "Thady," 
says  he,  ''do  you  see  the  furrin  gintleman  that's 
goin'  up  aloft  ?"  says  he.  "  It'd  be  mighty  quare 
if  I  did'nt,  capting,"  says  I ;  "for  I  never  tuk  my 
eye  off  him  from  the  minit  I  seed  him  a  layin'  a 
hould  o'  the  riggin'."  *'  Shure,  an'  it's  a  wonder, 
Thady,"  says  he,  "  that  he  can  go  up  at  all  at  all 
wid  them  shoes  he  wears,  wid  a  toppin'  at  the 
end  of  thim,  for  all  the  world  like  the  end  of  a 
marhn  spike  curled  up."  "  Thrue  for  you,  Sir," 
says  I ;  "a  more  active  gintlemin,  or  a  cleverer, 
Thady  never  clapt  liis  two  eyes  on ;  there's  not  a 
man  in  the  ship  could  go  up  them  rattlins  with 
all  that  head-gear  and  thim  cmied  toes,  widout 
bein'  in  mortial  fear  of  goin'  overboord."  "  Well, 
Thady,"  says  the  capting,  says  he ;  "  you're  a 
smart  fellow,  Thady,"  says  he,  and  begor  it  was 
them  very  words  he  spoke ;  "  you're  a  smart 
fellow,  Thady,"  says  he ;  "jist  go  up  with  the 
prince,"  says  he — "  after  him,"  says  he — "  take  a 


356  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

rope  up  to  splice,"  says  he,  "and  have  an  eye  upon 
him,"  says  he.  "Begor,  an'  I'll  do  that,  your 
honour,"  says  I ;  "  tho'  I  niver  seed  a  gintleman, 
let  alone  a  prince,  that  wanted  it  less,"  says  I,  "if 
it  wasn't  always  barrin'  the  toes  and  the  head- 
gear." That's  the  long  and  the  short  of  it,  your 
honour's  highness,  and  the  divil  a  he  in  it ;  an' 
shure  if  it's  angry  you  do  be  gettin',  I'll  make 
myself  scarce  at  onst.' 

"  Notwithstanding  the  difficulty  I  had  in  com- 
prehending his  extraordinary  Enghsh,  yet  I 
made  out  sufficient  to  understand  the  matter,  and 
to  perceive  that  my  friend  Thady  might  be  a 
very  agreeable  companion ;  so  I  said  no  more 
about  it.  Morning  after  morning,  as  I  took  my 
accustomed  place,  Thady  made  liis  appearance  at 
no  great  distance,  always  sphcing  with  praise- 
worthy dihgence,  and  at  the  same  time  '  keeping 
an  eye,'  as  he  would  have  said,  upon  me.  I 
sometimes  thought  they  feared  I  might  jump 
overboard ;  for  if  I  rose  more  swiftly  or  abruptly 
than  usual,  Thady  was  at  my  side  in  a  moment. 
He  was  an  amusing  companion,  however,  and  I 
learned  much  from  him  respecting  the  unfortunate 
country  from  which  he  had  come. 

"  At  Bombay  I  was  warmly  received  by  the 
members  of  our  community,  who  were  much  in- 
terested in  my  journey,  the  young  envying  me 


STOEY   OF   HORMANJEE.  357 

the  pleasure  and  excitement  I  could  not  fail  to 
enjoy,  the  old  exhorting  me  to  continue  stedfast 
in  our  holy  faith.  At  length,  furnished  with 
abundant  letters  to  Egypt  and  to  England,  I 
embarked  for  Mocha,  the  destination  of  our 
ship,  and  which  I  longed  to  reach,  that  I  might 
say  I  had  left  India  behind  me,  and  had  fairly 
stepped  forth  into  the  world.  It  was  not  with- 
out a  feeling  of  sorrow  that  I  remembered  we 
were  leaving  the  sacred  country  of  our  faith  on 
our  right  hand,  swiftly  passing  it  by,  and  tliat 
there  was  little  chance  of  my  seeing  the  elevated 
plains  of  Azerbijan,  where  Zoroaster  had  first 
dehvered  his  message  from  Ormuzd  and  the  sacred 
fire,  to  the  custody  of  the  King  Grushtasp.  Im- 
petuous Mohammedanism  had  driven  our  fathers 
thence  with  the  sword,  and  their  children,  instead 
of  uniting  to  seize  the  country  afresh,  were  con- 
tent with  their  merchandise  and  their  profits, 
neglecting  all  besides.  WiU  the  day  never  come 
when  the  evils  Mohammedans  have  brought  upon 
Persia,  and  upon  India,  shall  be  expiated  in  the 
blood  of  their  descendants  ! 

"  Mocha,  from  the  Hed  Sea,  is  a  picturesque- 
looking  town.  It  and  its  neighbourhood  form 
so  pleasant  a  contrast  with  the  bleak  shores  of 
Arabia  and  Africa,  that  it  seems  the  centre  of  an 
oasis  in  the  midst  of  frightful  rocks  and  desola- 


358  STORY   OF   nORaiANJEE. 

tion.  Its  white  houses  and  glittering  minarets 
gleam  in  the  sunshine,  in  beautiful  contrast  to 
the  green  verdure  and  foliage  by  which  it  is  sur- 
rounded, whilst,  far  away  to  the  north  and  south, 
the  uniform  yellow  line  of  bare  rocks  and  desert 
stretches  away  to  the  horizon,  leaving,  upon  the 
mind  of  the  beholder,  an  idea  of  vast  desolation 
which  oppresses  the  spirits.  A  nearer  inspection 
of  the  town,  however,  by  no  means  reahses  the 
flattering  idea  one  would  form  of  it  from  the  sea — 
its  houses,  for  the  most  part  white  certainly,  are 
low  and  gloomy -looking,  its  streets  narrow,  filthy, 
and  sombre,  through  which  the  proud  Musselmans 
stalk  silently  to  prayers  or  upon  their  business, 
their  taciturnity  only  broken  by  the  curse,  or  the 
contempt,  or  the  pity  which  they  gratuitously 
bestow  upon  the  infidel.  The  followers  of  Mo- 
hammed and  of  Zoroaster  can  never  be  reconciled, 
and.  Orientals  though  they  were,  I  felt  much 
more  lonely  and  isolated  amongst  the  populace 
of  Mocha  than  in  the  crowds  of  London, 

"  I  lost  no  time  in  embarking  for  Cosseir,  in 
Egypt,  between  which  town  and  Mocha  a  very 
considerable  traffic  is  carried  on.  If  I  had  dis- 
liked Mocha,  however,  I  was  still  less  pleased 
with  the  miserable  port  of  Cosseir,  where  wretched- 
ness of  every  description  delights  to  expose  itself 
to  the  broad  light  of  day ;  where  the  stranger  can- 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  359 

not  steal  from  his  house  without  being  surrounded 
and  followed  by  a  motley  group  of  mendicants,  all 
anxious  to  prove  their  wretched  condition,  by  ex- 
hibiting their  disgusting  sores  and  deformities — 
Abyssinians,  Nubians,  Kopts,  and  even  the  fol- 
lowers of  the  impostor  of  Mecca,  so  proud  else- 
where, all  vying  with  each  other  in  ostentatious 
mendicancy,  and  in  the  exhibition  of  their  misery. 
"  I  was  more  than  recompensed  however  for 
the  discomfort  and  filth  of  Mocha  and  Cosseir  by 
the  sail  down  the  Nile  from  Denderah  to  Cairo. 
I  had  hired  a  comfortable  boat  with  an  ample 
crew,  and  as  we  proceeded  leisurely  down  this 
celebrated  stream,  I  examined  the  various  works 
on  the  antiquities  of  Egypt,  with  which  Enghsh 
literature  abounds,  and  which  I  liad  taken  care  to 
provide  before  leaving  Calcutta.  It  is  a  strange 
feeling  that  one  experiences,  when  brought  face  to 
face  with  the  great  works  of  antiquity — it  is  a  feel- 
ing not  to  be  easily  forgotten,  and  perhaps  there 
is  no  greater  incentive  to  glory,  or  a  thirst  for 
glory,  than  to  stand  before  the  ruins  of  what  has 
long  been  glorious  ;  the  heart  expands  as  though 
it  would  embrace  the  past  and  pry  into  the  future, 
in  its  reveries, — it  feels  that  it  is  not  so  much 
what  we  do  now  or  what  we  enjoy  now,  as  what 
we  leave  beliind  us,  when  our  fretful  hour  of  hfe 
has  ended,  that  we  shall  be  judged  by.    Wlio  that 


360  STOKT   OF   HORMANJEE. 

has  stood  before  the  mounds  of  Deir  Selin,  the 
ruins  and  tombs  of  Siout,  or  the  pyramids  that 
strew  the  left  bank  of  the  Nile  between  Beni-Souef 
and  Jizeh,  has  not  wished  that  he  too  might  leave 
something  behind  him,  as  a  mark  to  posterity, 
even  though  it  should  only  be  a  monstrous  tomb  ? 
And  yet  how  strange  that  all  these  monuments 
that  stir  the  soul  so  deeply  should  be  but  sepul- 
chral mounds  j  everytliing  in  Egypt  tells  of 
death,  its  greatness  is  more  apparent  in  its 
tombs  and  catacombs  than  in  any  remains  that 
indicate  life  and  action  and  vigour  !  Strange 
that  structures,  every  line  of  which  speaks  of 
repose,  of  death,  of  stillness,  of  eternity,  should 
powerfully  rouse  the  soul  to  action  and  make  one 
feel  that  '  twenty  centuries  look  down  '  upon  him 
from  these  mighty  monuments. 

"  You  can  fancy,  from  your  experience  of  Ceylon, 
that  a  moonhght  sail  upon  the  Granges,  the  Bhagi- 
rati,  or  the  Hooghly,  is  a  delightful  thing.  After 
the  heat  of  the  day,  when  the  moon  has  risen  in 
all  her  silvery  splendour,  not  obscure  or  dim  as  in 
the  north,  but  throwing  down  floods  of  light, 
what  can  be  more  pleasant  than  to  watch  the 
dark  shadows  of  the  foliage  on  either  side,  form- 
ing so  beautiful  a  contrast  with  the  glowing 
water,  if  it  be  peaceful  and  at  rest,  whilst  the  boat 
ghdes  noiselessly  downwards  with  the   current. 


STORY   OF  HORMANJEE.  361 

There  is  something  in  a  scene  like  that,  which 
makes  one  desu-e  solitude  to  enjoy  it  thoroughly 
— it  is  not  a  thing  that  can  be  talked  about  at 
the  time.  This  pleasure  is  even  increased  upon 
the  Nile.  Small  as  the  stream  is  in  comparison 
with  the  gigantic  floods  of  India — at  least,  small 
as  it  was  in  the  dry  season  when  I  saw  it — it  yet 
presents  more  striking  contrasts,  a  greater  variety 
of  the  picturesque,  than  the  rivers  of  India. 
The  foHage  is  as  various, — the  banks  are  more 
frequently  covered  with  pictm'esque  villages, — oc- 
casionally a  glimpse  is  obtained  of  apparently 
illimitable  deserts,  shining  in  all  the  blankness 
and  desolation  of  soHtude  far  away  to  the  right 
hand  and  to  the  left ;  one  turns  from  its  mono- 
tonous sameness  to  the  variety  of  the  river  with 
something  of  the  feehng  experienced  after  having 
travelled  through  an  interminable  forest,  when 
an  unexpected  ghmpse  is  afforded  of  cultivated 
plains,  or  fruitful  valleys.  But,  more  than  all 
this,  and  adding  a  charm  to  such  a  scene 
which  probably  the  world  cannot  supply  to  the 
same  extent  elsewhere,  are  the  monuments  of 
antiquity  so  tliickly  studded  on  every  side. 
Everything  in  Egypt  is  grouped  on  the  banks 
of  the  river;  life  and  death  are  there  brought 
into  constant  and  strange  juxtaposition  —  the 
mud-cabin  of  to-day  beside  the  venerable  ruin 
VOL.  I.  R 


362  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

of  two  thousand  years  ago — the  waving  of  the 
living  trees  of  yesterday  beside  the  immovable 
monuments  of  dead  antiquity.  I  felt,  as  we  gHded 
down  the  stream,  that  there  were  thoughts  and 
feelings  Ijing  deep  in  the  heart  which  travel  only 
could  cultivate ;  which,  without  travel,  would 
probably  for  ever  remain  dormant. 

"  The  mosques  and  palaces  of  Cairo  and  Alex- 
andria did  not  detain  me  long.  I  had  seen  the 
past  in  Egypt,  and  I  now  hurried  on  to  inspect 
the  present,  in  London.  Absorbed  as  I  was  with 
anxiety  to  visit  the  great  metropolis,  I  felt  httle 
interest  in  Malta  and  Gibraltar ;  I  rather  felt 
glad,  indeed,  when  the  vessel's  prow  was  turned 
from  them,  and  we  plunged  onwards  towards  the 
island,  of  which,  from  the  time  that  I  could  lisp 
a  syllable,  I  had  heard  so  much.  It  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at,  that  the  Oriental,  who  had  been 
brought  up  in  India,  should  regard  England  and 
London  with  even  greater  interest  than  the 
Englishman  does  Greece  and  Eome..  Were  they 
living  Greece,  and  living  Eome — the  Greece  of 
Pericles,  and  the  Eome  of  Augustus — they  would 
then  but  faintly  shadow  forth  in  interest  to  the 
Englishman,  what  England  is  to  the  Indian. 

"  At  length  the  dull  haze,  and  overhanging 
smoke  were  pointed  out  to  me,  as  the  signs  of  the 
great  city.     As  we  drew  nearer  and  nearer,  I  was 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  303 

stupified  by  the  din,  and  confounded  by  the 
bustle,w  hich  met  my  ears,  and  assailed  my  eyes 
on  every  side.  I  could  see  nothing  but  masses 
of  men  and  women,  and  horses,  rushing  in  various 
directions,  as  if  life  or  death  depended  upon  the 
struggle — and  truly,  life  or  death  does  depend 
upon  the  struggle  in  too  many  instances.  Eising 
amongst  the  smoke  and  dimness  which  enveloped 
ever}H:hing,  were  great  sphes  and  domes,  monu- 
ments and  statues,  the  proportions  of  which  were 
only  faintly  discernible ;  whilst  distinctly,  amidst 
the  confasion,  was  to  be  received  this  idea,  and 
this  only — that  an  immense  mass  of  humanity 
was  in  earnest  about  something  or  other ;  whether 
guiding  horses,  or  carrying  bundles,  or  torturing 
minerals  and  vegetables  into  new  forms,  or  plough- 
ing up  the  waters  of  the  unfortunate  river,  by 
thousands — whatever  they  were  doing,  they  all 
seemed  thoroughly  in  earnest  —  there  was  no 
child's  play,  no  acting  of  a  part — if  they  would 
not  struggle,  they  might  not  Hve,  seemed  the  law 
of  their  existence.  Sunday  seemed  alone  the  day  on 
which  they  were  not  in  earnest.  Then  they  were 
listless  and  apathetic,  or  else  incapable  of  being 
earnest  about  anything,  for  the  most  part.  Then 
the  women  seemed  to  have  assumed  the  character 
the  men  had  put  ojff.  They  crowded  earnestly  to 
the  places  of  worsliip  ;  the  men  sauntered  indiffe- 

R  2 


364  STORY   OF   HORMA]SrjEE. 

rently  along.  I  could  see  no  greater  contrast 
than  between  the  man  pressing  forward  on  his 
daily  business,  or  to  enjoy  some  pleasure  on  a 
week-day,  and  the  same  man  on  the  Sunday,  roll- 
ing apathetically  to  church;  a  female  on  each 
arm,  perhaps,  giving  the  impetus.  It  is  not  so 
in  the  East.  If  Mohammedans  or  Hindoos  are 
ever  in  earnest,  it  is  in  their  worship. 

"  I  was  received  with  the  warmest  kindness  and 
hospitahty  by  friends  of  our  house  to  whom  I  had 
introductions.  Men,  high  amongst  the  mercan- 
tile communit}^,  who,  had  they  been  in  Calcutta, 
would  feel  ashamed  of  my  occupying  a  seat  at 
their  tables,  insisted  upon  having  me  at  their 
residences  —  would  not  hear  of  my  engaging 
apartments  at  a  hotel.  My  first  residence  was 
at  Bayswater — my  host  dri\dng  in  everj^  day  to 
the  city,  whither  I  generally  accompanied  liim, 
for  I  deHghted  to  see  the  bustle  of  that  extra- 
ordinary hive,  and  loved  to  roam  about  in  it, 
merely  to  observe.  The  lions  of  the  great  me- 
tropolis were  duly  shown  to  me ;  but  I  saw 
none  so  marvellous  as  Fleet  Street,  Ludgate  Hill, 
Cheapside,  and  London  Bridge.  These  are  the 
true  wonders  of  London — its  paltry  parks  and 
gloomy  squares  cannot  be  compai'ed  with  the 
palaces  and  gardens  of  the  East ;  but  its  incessant 
toil  and  bustle,  its  work,  its  tlironged  shops  and 


STORY   OF  HORMAXJEE.  365 

paths,  its  mj^iads  of  active,  busy  men,  its  noble 
horses,  earnest  in  their  avocations  as  their 
masters, — these  are  truly  wonders,  such  as  one 
cannot  see  elsewhere,  and  in  these  is  much  of 
the  success  of  Englishmen  explained.  Steady 
perseverance  is  the  secret  of  their  wonderful 
career,  and  j^et  that  perseverance  would  probably 
have  effected  little,  had  it  not  been  dkected  by 
an  energy  as  indomitable  as  itself. 

"  I  visited  Paris,  and  there  the  foundations  of  my 
peace  of  mind  were  sapped,  and  the  train  laid  for 
a  long  series  of  subsequent  misfortunes.  There  I 
saw  more  splendid  buildings,  more  magnificent 
galleries,  more  highly  ornamented  pubhc  ways, 
but  I  saw  nothing  like  Fleet  Street  or  the  Strand, 
nothing  to  compare  with  Cheapside  or  London 
Bridge.  Paris  is  certainly  as  much  more  magni- 
ficent than  London  as  the  Place  de  la  Concorde 
than  Trafalgar  Square.  London  is  as  much  more 
business-Hke  than  Paris  as  Ludgate  Hill  is  more 
crowded  than  the  Pue  St.  Honorc,  There  is 
splendour,  magnificence,  grandem-,  and  display  in 
the  one,  there  is  more  homely  earnestness  and 
truth,  laborious  toil  and  incessant  advance,  in  the 
other.  The  fountains  of  the  Place  de  la  Concorde 
and  those  of  Trafalgar  Square  may  be  taken  as 
samples  of  the  two.  The  former  are  grand  but 
seldom  play,  the  latter  are  homely  but  are  daily 


366  STORY  OF  HORMANJEE. 

at  work,  as  though  they  should  say,  '  Our  duty 
is  to  squirt  this  water  to  a  certain  height  for  so 
many  hours  a-day,  and  witness  ye  men  and  gods 
that  we  do  it,  with  all  our  might.' 

"  I  have  said  that  at  Paris  was  laid  the  foun- 
dation of  a  sea  of  troubles  in  which  I  was  long 
darkly  swimming,  almost  without  hope.  In  order 
to  avoid  observation  as  much  as  possible,  I  had 
completely  adopted  the  European  dress,  and, 
however  dark  I  may  look  in  our  white  angraka,  in 
the  black  broadcloth  of  England,  I  looked  light 
enough  to  be  often  taken  for  a  Frenchman.  The 
family  with  which  I  stopped  in  Paris  was  an 
English  one,  that  had  long  been  resident  there. 
They  conducted  me  to  every  point  of  attraction, 
and  I  was  dazzled  and  intoxicated  by  the  splen- 
dour and  gaiety  which  seemed  everywhere  to 
prevail.  In  an  over  anxious  endeavour  not  to  be 
singular,  I  had  made  it  a  rule  to  frequent  the 
table  of  my  hosts,  and  often  were  the  most  sacred 
principles  of  my  faith  outraged  in  my  presence. 
Yet  I  would  not  be  singular.  I  wished  to  re- 
semble the  people  who  were  round  me,  and  said 
nothing.  Pork  was  consumed  by  my  neighbour, 
whilst  he  smilingly  addressed  me,  and  the  very 
hand  that  helped  me  to  something  in  the  vicinity 
was  probably  engaged  a  moment  before  in  cutting 
up  a  slice  of  ham !    Nor  was  tliis  all.     Candles 


STORY  OF   HORMANJEE.  367 

and  lamps  were  extinguished  with  a  levity  that 
sent  a  shudder  tlu'ough  my  soul !  Alas !  in  put- 
ting off  my  Parsee  garments,  I  was  forced  to 
smother,  at  the  expense  of  my  conscience,  many 
Parsee  ideas !  I  knew  that  I  was  doing  wrong, 
yet  I  had  not  the  moral  courage  to  confess  my 
error  and  retrace  my  steps. 

"  I  was  passionately  fond  of  the  theatre.  Never 
had  I  conceived  it  possible  that  mortal  voices  and 
mortal  frames  could  produce  the  enchantment  of 
the  opera,  and  I  delighted  in  constantly  attend- 
ing it.  Had  I  remained  in  Europe  till  this  hour, 
I  do  not  think  I  should  have  lost  my  relish  for 
that  exquisite  amusement.  My  friends  accom- 
panied me  frequently,  and  I  took  a  pleasure  in 
trying  the  different  effects  of  different  seats.  On 
one  of  these  occasions,  when  I  had  engaged  a  pit 
box  for  our  party,  I  saw  one  who,  for  a  time,  was 
the  joy  and  misery  of  my  life.  She  was  leaning 
from  a  box  at  a  short  distance  from  ours,  and  in 
the  same  tier,  when  I  first  caught  a  ghmpse  of 
her.  I  too  was  leaning  forward  at  the  time,  and, 
for  a  second,  our  eyes  met ;  it  was  to  me  as  if  a 
flash  of  lightning  had  rapidly  dazzled  my  vision. 
She  retired  into  her  box  again,  and  there,  hid  by 
an  envious  curtain,  I  could  see  no  more  of  her. 
Yet  I  could  think  of  nothing  else.  The  play,  the 
singing,  my  friends  were  forgotten,  and  abruptly 


308  .STORY   OF   IIORMAIs'JEE. 

quitting  my  position  I  made  my  way  into  the 
pit,  in  order  that  I  might  obtain  a  full  view  of 
the  face  that  had  produced  upon  my  mind  so 
electrical  an  effect.  I  thought  I  saw  a  faint  smile 
upon  her  lips,  as  she  recognised  me,  and  I  was 
delighted  at  it.  It  is  possible,  thought  I,  that 
some  strange  sympathy  links  our  spirits  together, 
and  that  I  may  have  made  an  impression  upon 
her  mind,  as  she  upon  mine.  Her  hair,  which 
was  of  the  lightest  golden  coloui',  waved  over  her 
shoulders  in  long  ringlets.  She  was  a  complete 
northern  beauty,  but  v/ith  the  bright  hazel  eyes  of 
the  south,  almost  too  spiritual  and  nervous  for 
the  glow  of  health  which  animated  her  cheek. 
A  simple  wreath  of  light  flowers  encircled  her 
head,  and  formed  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the 
bright  golden  hue  of  the  mass  above  them  and 
below ;  her  arm,  full  and  delicately  white,  reposed 
upon  the  crimson  cushion  in  front  of  her,  and  the 
thought  struck  me  at  the  moment  that  its  pro- 
portions were  perfection  itself,  and  that  any 
deviation  from  those  proportions  must  be  erro- 
neous. My  gaze,  however,  was  too  full  and 
bold,  for,  at  the  close  of  tlie  act,  she  changed 
places  with  a  lady  beside  her,  evidently  in  order 
that  she  might  be  again  hidden  from  my  view  by 
that  envious  curtain.  I  saw  and  acknowledged 
the  reproof,  and,  retui'ning  to  the  box  I  had  left. 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  369 

apologised,  as  best  I  could,  for  my  abrupt  de- 
parture. 

"  Twice  again,  and  twice  only,  in  tlie  course  of 
that  evening,  did  I  gain  a  glimpse  of  my  fair 
charmer,  but  those  glimpses  were  sufficient  to 
rivet  the  fetters  with  wliich  I  was  already  bound. 
I  tried  to  think  of  Amoosta,  but  I  could  not. 
The  fair  northern  had  usurped  her  place,  and  the 
more  classical  beauty  of  the  East  was,  for  a  time, 
dethroned.  I  noted  the  box  in  which  she  had 
sat,  and  during  all  the  subsequent  day,  I  made 
many  enquiries,  and  spent  many  francs  in  vain, 
in  order  to  discover  her  name  and  address.  I 
could  learn  no  more  than  that,  to  all  appearance, 
it  was  an  English  party  that  had  occupied  that 
box  the  previous  evening — where  she  had  come 
from,  whither  she  had  gone  to,  it  was  impossible 
to  discover.  I  went  again  the  next  evening  that 
the  opera  was  open,  to  inspect  every  box,  and 
every  stall,  but  my  fair  northern  was  no  where 
to  be  seen ;  the  box  she  had  occupied  before,  was 
now  tenanted  by  a  bevy  of  French  dowagers,  as 
unHke  my  fair  charmer  in  their  then  external  ap- 
pearance, as  their  frames  were  doubtless  that  of 
the  Venus  de  Medici. 

"  To  you,  in  whom  the  passions  of  love  and 
admiration  have  not  been  ripened  under  a  tropical 
sun,  it  may  appear  folly  or  madness  in  me  to  con- 

5.3 


370  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

fess,  that  I  became  melancholy  and  unhappy  from 
that  moment.  The  theatre  was  a  kind  of  forlorn 
hope — she  might  possibly  be  there  again,  and, 
with  this  hope,  I  had  buoyed  myself  up  during 
all  that  day.  The  disappointment  was  misery, 
and  I  returned  to  my  home,  wretched  and  discon- 
solate. In  vain  did  I  argue  with  myself,  that  my 
passion  was  foolish  and  hopeless  ;  that,  allowing 
I  were  introduced  to  her,  there  was  very  httle 
chance  of  her  reciprocating  my  affection,  and  still 
less  of  her  parents  sanctioning  our  love ;  in  vain 
did  the  image  of  Amoosta  reproach  me  in  my 
dreams  for  my  forgetfulness  j  the  whole  ardour  of 
my  soul  was  monopolized  by  the  fau'-haired 
beauty,  I  had  no  time  to  think  of  any  one  else. 
I  sank  into  a  kind  of  senseless  lethargy,  from 
wliich  my  friends  vainly  endeavoured  to  rouse 
me  by  amusements,  by  bantering,  and  by  argu- 
ment. I  would  not,  nay,  I  could  not,  be  wise. 
My  senses  and  my  mind  were  overpowered.  At 
length,  on  one  occasion,  we  drove  to  Versailles. 
I  remember  the  occurrences  of  that  day,  now,  as 
though  it  had  been  but  yesterday.  We  were 
midway  between  Paris  and  the  superb  palace, 
when  a  carriage  drove  past  us,  going  in  the  op- 
posite direction. 

"  I  had  not  failed,  according  to  my  wont,  to 
peer  into  it,  and  there,  reclining  languidly,  ap- 


STORY   OF   nORMANJEE.  371 

parently  overpowered  by  heat  and  fatigue,  I  saw 
the  same  fair  form  that  had  enchanted  me  at  the 
opera.  She  was  alone  too.  I  ahnost  screamed 
with  surprise  and  dehght.  My  companions  really 
thought  me  mad.  I  insisted  upon  being  put 
down  where  we  were,  as  I  could  not  prevail  upon 
them  to  pursue  the  fair  stranger.  I  ran  wildly 
along  the  road  to  Paris,  looking  for  some  hirer-out 
of  horses  and  carriages,  that  I  might  follow  the 
enchantress.  At  length,  at  a  miserable  inn,  I 
succeeded,  after  infinite  trouble,  for  my  French 
was  by  no  means  of  the  most  fluent,  or  correct 
description,  in  hiring  an  old  caleche,  with  one 
wretched  horse,  but  not  till  the  carriage  I  wished 
to  j^ursue,  had  long  been  out  of  sight.  The  big 
round  drops  coursed  each  other  rapidly  down  my 
forehead,  as  I  waited  impatiently  for  the  vehicle 
to  be  prepared.  The  French,  however,  unlike  my 
Enghsh  friends,  did  not  think  me  insane.  They 
are  more  accustomed  to  impetuosity  and  eagerness 
in  the  afiairs  of  the  heart.  At  length  we  started. 
Had  the  horse  been  a  Pegasus,  and  flown  rapidly 
through  the  air,  he  could  scarcely  have  gone  too 
fast  for  my  excitement,  but  he  was  far  from  being 
a  Pegasus,  and,  it  was  only  by  dint  of  the  most 
incessant  appliances  of  the  whip,  that  I  could  get 
him  to  advance  at  any  reasonable  rate. 

"  The    chace   was   an   unequal  one,  however. 


372  STORY   OF  HORMANJEE. 

The  horses  of  the  carriage  in  which  my  fair  inna- 
monita  had  been  wliu'led  so  rapidly  away,  were 
doubtless  private  ones,  in  excellent  condition, 
spirited  and  swift.  The  miserable  hack  that  drew 
my  caleche  was  thin  and  jaded.  I  had  hoped  to 
obtain  but  a  glimpse  of  the  vehicle  I  was  pur- 
suing, that  I  might  afterwards  be  able  to  keep  it 
in  view,  but  I  was  completely  disappointed.  To 
the  barrier  of  Paris  we  advanced  at  an  irregular 
gallop,  my  eyes  eagerly  straining  into  the  road 
in  advance  of  us,  but  without  success,  and  it  was 
not  until  the  police  at  the  barrier  of  Sainte  Marie 
had  seized  my  horse's  head,  and  compelled  the  wild 
chace  to  end,  that  I  reflected  on  the  utter  inutility 
of  continuing  it  further.  I  dismissed  the  venerable 
caleche,  and  entered  Paris  on  foot,  a  sadder,  if  not 
a  wiser  youth. 

"  Again  and  again  did  I  frequent  the  theatre 
and  the  road  to  Versailles,  but  without  success, 
and  at  length  my  health  began  to  give  way  under 
the  incessant  excitement  of  my  mind.  I  resolved, 
tl^^refore,  to  quit  Paris,  and  to  accept  of  an  invi- 
tation from  an  old  Anglo-Indian,  settled  at  Chel- 
tenham, who  wished  me  to  spend  a  month  with 
him.  Mr.  Haughton  had  been  in  the  Company's 
Civil  Service  in  Calcutta,  and  having  been  under 
some  obligations  to  my  father,  was  anxious  to 
show,   by  his  hospitality  to  me,  that  he  had  not 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 


373 


forgotten  tliem.  He  was  a  peculiar,  taciturn 
man,  who  seldom  went  into  society,  but  allowed 
his  daughters,  and  then-  maiden  aunt,  liis  sister, 
to  visit  as  they  pleased.  On  the  evening  on 
which  I  joined  his  family  he  was  alone  in  the 
house,  all  the  other  members  of  it  ha\T.ng  de- 
parted on  a  visit  to  the  hons  of  Cirencester.  They 
were  not  expected  back  till  late,  and  being  fatigued 
by  my  journey,  and  far  from  well,  I  retired  at  an 
early  hour. 

"  Next  morning,  as  usual,  Mr.  Haughton,  who 
was  as  regular  as  the  hands  of  the  clock  that  stood 
in  his  own  dining-room,  was  the  first  in  the  break- 
fast-parlour, and  on  my  joining  him,  told  me  he 
expected  the  ladies  presently.  In  a  few  miuutes 
they  made  their  appearance,  and  you  may  fancy, 
though  I  cannot  describe,  my  astonishment,  plea- 
sure, confusion,  and  surprise,  when  I  saw  in  the 
person  of  his  youngest  daughter.  Miss  Maria 
Haughton,  the  very  lady  who  had  so  powerfully 
impressed  her  image  on  my  heart  in  the  Opera  at 
Paris,  and  whom  I  had  so  unsuccessfully  pursued 
on  the  road  from  Versailles. 

"  My  confusion,  which  was  very  apparent  to 
the  aunt  and  the  elder  sister,  although  they  pro- 
bably attributed  it  to  Oriental  'gaucherie,'  was 
quite  unobserved  by  Mr.  Haughton,  who  merely 
remarked  that  it  was  already  five  minutes  past 


374  STOKY   OF   HOKMANJEE. 

the  usual  breakfast-hour,  as  he  seated  himself  at 
the  table.  What  au  extraordinary  position  was 
mine !  I  had  fled  from  the  thoughts  of  the  fair 
Maria  at  Paris  to  throw  myself  into  her  very  pre- 
sence and  society.  I  could  not  be  deceived  in 
those  sliining  ringlets,  those  dark  hazel  eyes,  full 
of  light  and  happiness ;  that  dehcate  hand  and 
axm.  I  had  noted  them  all  too  minutely — they 
had  been  too  firmly  stamped  upon  my  heart  to 
admit  of  my  having  been  deceived. 

" '  You  have  just  returned  from  Paris,'  said 
Miss  Haughton,  the  aunt,  to  me ;  '  my  nieces 
have  been  on  a  visit  there  with  an  uncle,  and  have 
been  but  tln-ee  weeks  at  home.'  Yes,  thought  I, 
whilst  I  took  care  to  say  something  else ;  yes,  I 
knew  they  had  been  there  very  well,  I  could  have 
sworn  it. 

"  '  And  did  you  Hke  Paris  ?'  I  asked  of  Maria. 
'  Like  it,'  she  replied,  '  I  was  enchanted  with  it. 
It  was  my  second  visit,  but  I  should  never  be 
tired  of  it.'  Her  eyes  sparkled  with  pleasure  as 
she  spoke.  I  felt  like  a  pai'tially  intoxicated  man 
— too  full  of  happiness. 

"  I  cannot  delay  upon  this  unfortunate  portion 
of  my  career.  The  very  remembrance  of  it  is 
harrowing  to  me  now,  and  I  have  been  ever  since 
doing  my  utmost  to  forget  it ;  but  alas,  where 
the  conscience  has  once  been  violently  outraged. 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  875 

there  is  little  chance  of  ultimate  oblivion  of  the 
circumstances.  I  was  madly,  violently  in  love 
with  Maria.  My  own  fondly-attached  Amoosta 
was  quite  forgotten,  or  only  remembered  as  an 
unpleasant  incubus  that  must  sooner  or  later  be 
shaken  off. 

"  The  sound  of  Maria's  voice,  her  very  foot-fall 
vibrated  through  me  with  an  extraordinary  degree 
of  power;  it  was  as  if  I  had  dehvered  myself 
over  to  an  infatuation  which  was  luring  me  to 
destruction.  She  encouraged  my  attentions ;  there 
was  ever  a  winning  smile  upon  her  hps,  a  gracious 
word  to  cheer  me,  when  I  showed  an  anxiety  to 
obhge  her.  She  had  never  been  in  India,  and 
had  therefore  not  learned  to  despise  the  Orientals ; 
she  looked  upon  me  merely  as  a  man,  and  saw  no 
reason  why  I  should  not  be  treated  as  any  other 
man.  Would  that  she  had  despised  me,  and  my 
pride  would  have  revolted  at  her  contempt,  and 
been  my  preserver !  Her  aunt  encouraged,  whilst 
her  sister  was  displeased  at  my  attentions.  Mr. 
Haughton  either  did  not  observe  them,  or  treated 
them  as  a  matter  of  profound  indifference,  as  long 
as  they  did  not  interfere  with  his  domestic  ar- 
rangements, or  retard  the  dinner-hour  a  moment. 
Often,  to  please  the  caprice  of  my  enchantress, 
did  I  make  my  appearance  in  Parsee  costume, 
and  as  I  spared  neither  money  nor  pains  to  render 


376 


STORY   OF   HORMA^JEE. 


it  imposing,  it  was  universally  admired.  The 
aunt,  doubtless,  looked  upon  me  with  a  favour- 
able eye  on  account  of  the  reports  wliich  Mr. 
Haughton  had  heard  of  my  father's  wealth,  whilst 
the  sister,  as  I  soon  found  to  my  cost,  looked  upon 
me  with  horror  as  a  heathen. 

"  At  Jengtli  I  found  a  favourable  opportunity 
of  declaring  my  passion.  We  were  quite  alone 
without  fear  of  interruption.  Maria  heard  me 
with  emotion,  yet  my  declaration  was  evidently 
expected.  'Hormanjee,'  said  she,  'why  make 
such  an  avowal  to  me  ?  You  know  I  am  a 
Christian.'  And  so  saying,  she  looked  me  full  in 
the  face,  as  though  she  would  read  what  was  in 
my  secret  thoughts.  *  And  for  thee,  Maria — for 
thee,  lovely  and  adorable  Maria- — I  would  become 
anything,'  I  passionately  exclaimed,  *  I  too,  will 
be  a  Christian.'  '  Will  you  !  will  you  indeed  ?' 
said  she,  '  Will  you,  for  my  sake  become  a 
Christian  ?  Oh,  then,  I  shall  be  sure  you  love 
me  !  Until  then,  however,  no  more  of  this.  When 
you  have  indeed  become  a  Christian,  I  am  sure 
my  father  will  listen  to  you.'  '  And,  should  he 
not  ?'  I  asked  ;  '  what  then,  Maria  ?  Eemember, 
I  am  one  of  those  natives  whom  he  has  been  ac- 
customed to  despise  for  3^ears.  Should  he  not 
listen  to  me,  Maria  ?'  I  understood  her  to  whisper 
a  faint,  '  I  will,'  as  she  sobbed  upon  my  shoulder. 


•  STORY  OF   HORMANJEE,  377 

"  The  next  Sunday  I  went  with  the  family  to 
church.  It  was  the  first  time  I  had  been  at 
the  Protestant  service,  and  my  conscience  did  not 
fail  to  reproach  me,  even  then,  for  joining  in  rites 
and  prayers  which  I  regarded  as  vain  and  false. 
But  Maria  was  in  the  pew,  and  beneath  the  veil 
which  partially  concealed  her  features,-  I  knew 
that  her  eyes  were  frequently  turned  towards  me. 
I  had  become  too  great  an  adept,  however,  at  dis- 
simulation to  allow  any  portion  of  my  feelings 
to  exhibit  themselves  in  my  countenance  or  my 
manner.  I  had  learned  the  fatal  European  secret 
of  hiding  my  thoughts.  The  sermon  pleased  me 
much.  It  was  upon  the  duty  of  benevolence, 
and  frequently  reminded  me  of  one  of  those  ex- 
traordinary questions  which  Zoroaster  (as  you  call 
him)  put  to  Ormuzd  when  admitted  to  the  pre- 
sence. '  Who  is  the  best  of  your  servants  ?'  asked 
the  prophet.  And  the  r-eply  was,  '  He  who  has  a 
right  heart.  He  who  fails  not  in  practising 
justice,  whose  eyes  do  not  wander  after  riches. 
He  who  does  good  to  everything  in  the  world, 
will  be  eternally  happy ;  whilst  those  who  afflict 
my  peojDle,  and  disregard  my  precepts  shaU  be 
sent  to  hell.' 

"  At  length  the  time  came  when  our  mutual 
affection  must  be  made  known  to  Maria's  father, 
and,  for  his  verdict  we  looked  as  anxiously  for- 


378  STORY  OF   HORMANJEE. 

ward  as  the  criminal  for  the  sentence  of  the  judge. 
Maria's  aunt  undertook  to  mention  the  matter. 
He  received  the  announcement  more  calmly  than 
we  had  anticipated,  for  we  were  in  an  adjoining 
room,  in  breatliless  expectation.  'Humph,'  he 
exclaimed,  '  this,  then,  is  why  he  was  so  ready  to 
prolong  his  visit,  notwithstanding  his  devotion  to 
the  Opera,  and  the  great  length  of  time  he  has  al- 
ready been  from  India.  Manuckjee  ^vdll  not  thank 
me  for  making  his  son  a  Christian.  The  idea  is  ab- 
surd— in  love  with  a  Parsee,  forsooth !  Pshaw, 
nonsense — Manuckjee  is  rich  to  be  sm-e  ;  but 
would  he  leave  his  wealth  to  a  Christian,  do  you 
think  ?  Not  a  bit  of  it.  And,  besides,  I  won't 
have  any  converts  about  me.  I  hate  converts. 
If  he  says  he's  a  Clmstian,  it's  all  nonsense. 
He'U.  laugh  at  the  priest  that  baptizes  him.  0 
don't  talk  to  me,  I  know  them  better  than  you 
do.  I  never  saw  a  Parsee  become  a  Cliristian. 
I  tell  you  they  are  as  bigoted  as — as  bigoted  as 
— as — '  the  old  gentleman  could  not  find  a  better 
simile,  so  he  said,  '  as  the  very  devil.  Are  they 
there?  This  folly  must  be  put  an  end  to,  at 
once.' 

"  Maria  and  I  entered.  Her  hand  was  in  my 
arm ;  and,  although  she  was  deadly  pale,  yet  she 
declared  her  fixed  determination  to  persevere. 
'  Hormanjee,'  said  Mr.  Haughton,  '  have  you  for- 


STORY  OF   HORiyiANJEE.  379 

gotten  Manuckjee,  your  mother,  your  religion, 
your  nation  ?'  '  For  her,  Sir,'  I  replied  firmly,  '  I 
can  forget  aU.'  '  Now,  come,  Hormanjee,  you're 
a  sensible  lad,'  he  said  blandly,  but  craftily ;  *  you 
don't  mean  to  tell  me — me,  who  have  been  in 
India — you  don't  mean  to  teU  me  you  are  a 
Christian.'  *  I  do,'  said  I,  feeling  more  and  more 
convinced  that  some  awful  trial  was  at  hand.  ^  You 
do ;  very  well,  pray  be  seated.'  He  then  turned 
to  Maria's  aunt,  and  said  quietly,  '  Order  a  light 
here  please,  to  seal  a  letter.'  My  nerves  shivered 
at  the  fearful  idea,  which  now  grasped  my  heart 
and  squeezed  the  blood  from  it,  as  one  would 
water  from  a  sponge  : — a  Hght — he  wants  to  see  if 
I  am  indeed  a  Christian ;  0  Maria,  little  do  you 
know  the  sacrifice  I  now  make  for  you,  thought 
I,  whilst  I  felt  some  great  change  coming  over 
me,  that  I  could  not  understand.  The  hght  was 
brought,  and  placed  upon  the  table.  'There,' 
said  Mr.  Haughton,  with  a  calm,  clear  voice,  that 
formed  an  awful  contrast  with  the  turmoil  in  my 
mind,  with  the  agony  I  was  enduring — '  There,' 
said  he,  '  is  the  Parsee's  god.  If  Hormanjee  be 
indeed  a  Christian,  let  him  extinguish  that  Hght/ 
Maria  looked  at  me  in  triumph.  To  her  it  seemed 
an  easy  feat.  To  me  it  was — heU.  It  was  sever- 
ing the  ties  that  bound  me  to  my  nation,  to  my 
rehgion,  to  my  father's  house.     I  felt  the  room 


380  STORY   OF  HORMANJEE. 

wliii'ling,  my  Iiead  swimming,  mj  brain  on  fire,  as 
I  rose  from  my  cliair  and  advanced  to  tlie  table. 

"  I  cannot  even  now  tliink  of  that  fatal  mo- 
ment without  shuddering.  I  did  extinguish  the 
light,  and  next  day  I  was  in  a  brain  fever ;  for 
fourteen  days  did  I  he  utterly  unconscious  of  all 
around  me.  Maria's  aunt  tended  me  mth  the 
care  of  a  mother,  and  I  slowly  recovered.  My 
jQrst  conscious  thoughts  were  of  her  for  whom  I 
had  made  the  sacrifice,  and  I  asked  earnestly 
after  her.  For  days  I  was  luUed  ■s\ith  lying 
assm'ances,  and  it  was  not  until  I  was  strong 
enough  to  bear  further  torture,  that  I  found  she 
had  abandoned  me. 

"  With  the  cold  calculation  of  the  north,  she 
would  make  no  sacrifice  for  one  who  had  sacrificed 
all  for  her.  She  had  left  a  note  for  me,  deeply 
regretting  all  that  had  occm-red,  but  she  was 
sure  we  could  never  be  happy  together.  I  had 
made  evidently  a  great  sacrifice  for  her,  its  very 
extent  proved  how  Httle  I  was  of  a  Christian, 
how  much  still  of  a  Parsee. 

"  I  tore  the  letter  and  flung  it  from  me. 
Would  that  I  could  as  easily  have  torn  her  image 
from  my  heart !  I  endeavom'ed  to  do  so  however, 
and  I  partially  succeeded.  After  six  months 
fui'ther  residence  in  London  —  a  gloomy  and 
miserable  six  months — I  felt  that  I  might  again 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  381 

venture  to  meet  my  Amoosta,  and  in  her  love  and 
trutlifulness,  console  myself  for  the  cold  falsehood 
of  Maria. 

"  I  sailed  in  one  of  the  splendid  Indian  vessels 
round  the  Cape  to  Calcutta.  The  voyage  of  four 
months,  tedious  and  monotonous  to  others,  was 
to  me  as  a  lieahng  medicme — a  balm  for  the 
wounds  my  soul  had  sustained.  Grradually  the 
idea  of  Maria  faded  from  my  heart,  with  all  the 
guilt  and  reproach  which  that  image  called  up  in 
my  own  conscience.  I  dihgently  studied  the 
Zend-Avesta,  and,  in  its  pages,  found  consolation 
imder  my  trials ;  my  religious  duties  were  ear- 
nestly and  unremittingly  pursued — I  no  longer 
put  off  my  native  habit,  and,  in  resuming  it,  I 
seemed,  now  that  every  breeze  was  sending  me 
further  and  further  from  the  scene  of  my  degra- 
dation and  my  fall,  to  put  on  my  nationality 
again.  It  was  as  if  I  had  been  awaking  from 
some  horrible  and  oppressive  dream. 

"  I  arrived  at  Calcutta  only  to  hear,  alas  !  that 
death  had  been  maJdng  sad  havoc  with  my  family 
and  my  friends.  My  mother  was  gone.  Amoosta's 
sister  was  dead,  and  she  herself  lay  incapable  of 
the  sHghtest  exertion — she  was  at  the  very  door 
of  the  tomb.  Our  Parsee  mausoleums  {dokma, 
or  towers  of  silence,  as  we  call  them)  are  pe- 
culiar, as  are  indeed  our  rites  of  sepulture  and 
ordinances  of  every  kind.     We  have  no  burial- 


382  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

place  in  tliis  island  of  the  same  character  as  those 
in  the  large  cities  of  India.  A  high  circular  wall, 
with  a  single  door,  encircles  a  space,  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  dug  a  deep  pit.  Around  the  pit  and 
extending  to  the  wall,  rises  tier  above  tier  of  stone 
benches  on  which  the  corpse  is  laid.  There  is  no 
roof  to  this  gloomy  abode  of  the  dead,  and  the 
crow,  the  hawk,  the  vulture,  and  the  adjutant 
plume  their  wings,  as  they  sit  lazily  upon  the 
summit  of  the  wall,  waiting  for  their  horrible 
repasts.*  The  bones,  once  stripped,  are  consigned 
to  the  pit  in  the  middle  of  the  large  enclosure, 
and  when  the  pit  is  full,  the  cemetery  is  finally 
closed — its  door  barred  up,  and  all  ingress  denied. 
Such  is  the  Parsee  mausoleum  of  Calcutta. 

'*  The  father,  Kowasjee,  regarding  me  as  the 
cause  of  the  illness  of  his  beloved  Amoosta,  would 
not  see  me,  and  had  indeed  strictly  forbidden  my 
visits  to  his  house.  She  lay  at  the  point  of  death, 
yet  I  could  not  see  her !  Her  attendant  was  in- 
duced by  my  sister  to  grant  me  an  interview,  and 
she  assured  me  that  Amoosta  spoke  but  of  me 
when  her  tongue  could  perform  its  office — that 
her  father  would  not  allow  the  European  physicians 
into  his  house,  declaring  that  they  had  killed  her 
sister — and  that  she  was  now  steeped  in  a  kind 
of  lethargy  that  seemed  the  result  of  the  medical 

*  A  model  of  the  Parsee  dokma  may  be  seen  in  the  Museum  of  the 
Royal  Asiatic  Society,  London. 


STORY  OF  HORMANJEE.  383 

treatment  she  had  experienced.  My  heart,  torn 
rudely  as  it  had  been  by  the  cold  treachery  of 
Maria,  was  now  doomed  to  have  its  healing 
wounds  reopened  to  bleed  afresh.  I  implored 
Kowasjee  by  letter  and  by  messenger  to  see  me, 
and  to  permit  me  to  send  a  skilful  physician, 
with  whom  I  was  acquainted,  to  Amoosta.  I 
could  get  no  reply  to  my  messages  or  my  notes. 

"  A  week  had  elapsed  since  my  arrival  in 
Calcutta,  and  I  was  walking  sorrowfully  in  the 
garden  where  I  had  walked  years  ago  nurturing 
boyish  dreams.  I  was  still  very  young,  yet  the 
events  I  had  experienced  had  prematurely  de- 
veloped my  mind,  and  I  felt  grave  and  melan- 
choly, as  though  I  had  gone  through  a  long 
and  thoughtless  career,  and  was  only  now  be- 
ginning to  reflect  upon  it.  A  servant  approached 
and  informed  me  that  a  female  of  the  household 
of  the  Kowasjee  desired  an  interview.  It  was 
the  attendant  of  Amoosta,  and  her  appearance 
indicated  mourning  and  sorrow  for  the  departed. 
'  Amoosta  is  then  dead  ?'  I  asked.  *  So  they  say, 
my  lord/  was  her  reply — '  for  days  she  has  been 
insensible,  but  since  last  night  all  sign  of  anima- 
tion has  left  her — ^the  mubed*  has  pronounced  her 
dead,  and  she  is  to  be  removed  to  the  cemetery 
this  evening.* 

*  Parsee  priest. 


384  STORY   OF   HORMANJEE. 

"It  is  possible,  thought  I,  they  may  be  mis- 
taken ;  this  woman  seems  to  hint  as  much. 
What  an  awful  thought,  to  be  consigned  to  the 
vultures,  and  the  adjutants,  and  the  kites,  amid 
the  horrors  of  a  charnel-house,  alive  !  '  See,'  said 
I,  *take  care  that  the  body  of  Amoosta  is  well 
wrapped  up  in  the  usual  clothes,  but  let  not  the 
head  be  tightly  bound — the  folds  must  be  ample, 
and  the  cerements  more  abundant  than  usual.' 
'It  shall  be  done  as  my  lord  wiUs.  Will  not 
my  lord  visit  his  betrothed?'  she  asked.  'No,' 
said  I,  'I  will  waive  that  right,  as  her  father 
does  not  look  upon  me  with  the  eye  of  love. 
How  does  he  bear  the  loss?'  'He  is  all  but 
mad.  0,  Zardusht,  comfort  him !'  she  exclaimed 
wildly.  'Go,  my  friend/  said  I,  recompensing 
her  for  her  attention,  '  and  remember  my  words. 
Let  the  funeral  robes  be  more  ample  than  usual, 
with  abundant  folds,  and  loosely  wrapped  round 
the  head.'  '  It  shaU  be  done  as  my  lord  wills,' 
she  replied,  as  she  left  me. 

"  I  hurried  off  to  the  Nasarsalas,  those  whose 
miserable  office  it  was  to  bear  the  dead  bodies  into 
the  cemetery.  Their  feet  alone  have  trodden  its 
unhallowed  precincts ;  for,  whilst  the  mourners 
wait  without,'  they  leave  the  body  on  one  of  the 
stone  benches  prepared  for  the  purpose,  and,  re- 
moving the  funeral  clothes,  which  become  their 


STORY   OF   IIORMAXJEE.  385 

perquisites,  they  hurry  from  the  tomb,  that  they 
may  not  share  it  with  the  filthy  birds  who  swarm 
upon  the  body  in  crowds  at  once.  I  saw  these 
men.  Their  very  touch  is  defilement  by  our  law. 
I  bargained  with  them  for  the  funeral  clothes  of 
the  fair  girl  that  day  to  be  consigned  to  the 
tomb.  These  funeral  clothes,  contrary  to  their 
wont,  they  were  to  leave  untouched ;  and  by  an 
ample  bounty '  I  removed  their  scruples,  or  si- 
lenced their  consciences,  respecting  the  propriety 
of  this  unprecedented  procedure. 

"  I  then  went  to  the  guardian  of  the  tomb — a 
priest.  Here  I  had  a  more  difiicult  task  to  per- 
form. None  but  the  feet  of  the  body-bearers 
might,  by  our  law,  enter  the  cemeter}'^ — to  open 
it  to  any  others  was  to  violate  custom,  and  what 
he  believed  to  be  his  duty.  Money  is  all- 
powerful  on  earth,  however.  I  explained  my 
object  to  him.  I  implored  him  to  consider  the 
cruelty  of  allowing  a  fair  and  lovely  girl  to  be 
torn  to  pieces  by  ravenous  birds,  when,  perhaps, 
she  was  not  dead.  I  solemnly  promised  to  leave 
her  there,  if  the  medical  gentleman  who  accom- 
panied me  pronounced  her  dead ;  and,  finally,  I 
put  twenty  gold  mohurs*  into  his  hand.  He 
weighed  my  arguments  and  the  gold — both  were 
good — and  admission,  as  soon  as  it  became  quite 
dark,  was  promised. 

"Dr.  Wells  had   been   a   passenger  with  me 

*  A  gold  moliiiT  is  equal  to  16  rupees,  or  32  shillings. 
VOL.   I.  S 


386  STORY   OF  HORMANJEE. 

round  the  Cape.  We  had  become  intimate  on 
the  voyage,  and  he  was  still  in  Calcutta,  although 
preparing  to  join  a  remote  station  up  the  country. 
I  had  little  difficulty  in  persuading  him  to  ac- 
company me,  and  to  adopt,  for  that  purpose,  a 
Parsee  costume ;  for  the  priest  would  never  have 
admitted  an  infidel  into  the  mausoleum.  The 
very  novelty  of  the  enterprise  would  probably 
have  been  sufficient  to  have  induced  him  to  come, 
even  had  he  not  known  that  I  was  rich. 

"  That  evening,  about  six  o'clock,  the  mournful 
procession,  bearing  the  body  of  Amoosta,  deposited 
it  upon  the  stone  bier  prepared  for  that  purpose, 
outside  the  mausoleum.  The  priest  advanced, 
and  sprinkling  the  usual  perfumes,  whilst  he  re- 
cited the  customary  invocations,  he  opened  the 
door  of  the  mysterious  tomb.  A  cold  shudder 
ran  through  my  veins,  for  I  was  near,  but  dis- 
guised, as  I  saw  the  bearers  emerge,  like  spirits, 
from  a  shed  in  the  vicinity,  and  noiselessly  ad- 
vance to  the  corpse.  Their  well-oiled  bodies  were 
half- naked,  and  not  a  sound  was  heard,  save  the 
hurried  departure  of  the  friends  of  the  deceased, 
as  the  Nasar-satas  lifted  her  up  and  bore  her  into 
that  abode  of  dead  humanity  and  live  birds  of  prey. 
In  a  few  minutes  they,  too,  hurried  away,  and  the 
door  was  hastily  shut.  I  watched  them  narrowly 
— they  had  kept  their  promise — the  cerements 
had  not  been  removed. 

"  I  never  could  have  believed  that  hours  were 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  387 

SO  long  as  I  found  them  on  that  night.  The 
clocks  seemed  to  stand  still — the  very  seconds 
would  not  tick  mth  their  usual  rapidity.  At 
length  it  was  half-past  seven,  and  Dr.  Wells  and 
I  stepped  into  the  carriage  at  that  moment.  We 
left  it  near  the  cemetery,  but  not  within  sight, 
and  I  had  taken  the  precaution  to  obtain  a  Euro- 
pean coachman  from  a  livery-stable  in  Durrum- 
tollah  for  the  evening. 

"  It  was  a  dark  night  fortunately  for  our  pur- 
pose. We  both  had  lanterns,  the  hght  of  which 
was  as  yet  hidden  by  a  slide.  The  priest  silently 
opened  the  door  of  the  cemetery  as  w^e  advanced, 
and  we  shudderingly  entered.  We  had  no  sooner 
done  so  than  we  heard  the  door  shut  and  locked 
behind  us.  All  was  impenetrably  dark,  but  the 
horrid  effluvia  of  rotting  bones  told  too  plainly 
where  we  were.  We  moved  the  slides  of  our 
lanterns,  and  two  streams  of  hght  burst  forth  into 
the  gloom.  There  was  a  dull,  flapping  sound, 
overhead — it  was  a  vultm'e,  disturbed  by  our  in- 
trusion, watchmg  us  from  above.  We  advanced 
a  step  or  tw^o  cautiously,  until  our  eyes  should  get 
accustomed  to  our  position.  Wells  stumbled  over 
something  as  he  put  down  his  foot.  We  turned 
the  Hght  of  our  lanterns  upon  it.  '  It's  only  a 
skull,'  said  he,  '  let  us  get  nearer  the  centre,  near 
the  pit  you  speak  of,  and  we  shall  probably  be 
able  to  see  the  benches  around.'  He  was  right, 
that  was  the  best  measm'e  we  could  adopt.     A 

s  2 


388  STORY   OF   HORMAXJEE. 

path  led  directly  from  the  door  to  the  pit,  whilst 
others,  on  either  hand,  ran  round  between  the 
stone  benches  on  which  the  bodies  were  placed. 
I,  too,  stumbled  over  a  bone,  and  putting  out  my 
hand  to  steady  myself,  it  rested  for  a  moment  on 
the  ribs  of  a  skeleton,  which  were  stretched  in 
confusion  by  my  side.  '  This  smell  from  the  pit 
is  overpowering,'  said  Wells,  as  we  advanced. 
'Have  you  the  brandy -flask?'  I  gave  it  to  him 
— we  both  required  it. 

"  Raising  our  lamps,  we  allowed  the  light  to 
gleam  round  the  awful  inclosure.  Directly 
opposite  to  us — one  of  the  first  objects  we  saw — 
was  a  head,  standing  on  the  edge  of  the  bench, 
where  the  birds  had  doubtless  left  it ;  the  light 
from  our  lanterns  gleamed  full  into  its  eyeless 
sockets, — the  lower  jaw  still  hung  to  it,  with  all 
its  ghastly  teeth,  by  a  tendon.  A  half-consumed 
body,  with  its  entrails  hanging  upon  the  ground, 
was  being  devoured  by  two  vultures,  whom  even 
the  light  did  not  disturb.  From  hearing  the 
birds  in  that  direction,  we  had  thought  for  a 
moment,  it  was  what  we  were  looking  for.  At 
length.  Wells,  who  was  infinitely  more  calm  and 
collected  than  I  was,  in  tliis  abode  of  death,  per- 
ceived the  garments,  surrounding  the  bod}^  we 
sought,  upon  a  bench  at  no  great  distance.  To 
reach  it,  over  bones  and  filth,  was  but  the  work 
of  a  moment.  The  birds  had  departed,  foiled  by 
the  voluminous  folds  of  the  cerements,  the  outer 


STORY   OF   HORMANJEE.  389 

of  which  were  torn  in  various  places,  by  their  rave- 
nous bills.  I  raised  the  head,  and  removing  the 
covering,  exposed  to  the  full  beams  of  the  lantern, 
the  loveHest  features  they  had  ever  shone  upon. 
Dr.  Wells  proceeded  minutely  to  examine  the 
body.  '  There  is  life  here  still,'  he  said  at  length, 
cautiously  and  slowly,  '  but  this  atmosphere  will 
soon  extinguish  it.  She  must  be  removed  at 
once.'  So  saying,  he  moistened  the  lips  with  the 
brand3^  I  gave  him  my  lantern,  and,  taking  the 
precious  burden  in  my  arms,  followed  him  from 
that  horrid  scene  of  death  and  decay.  The  priest 
was  at  the  door,  and  would  have  opposed  the  de- 
parture of  the  body — but  we  heeded  him  not, 
and,  making  our  way  to  the  carriage,  were  speedily 
be3'ond  the  reach  of  his  importunities  and  his 
resistance. 

"  By  assiduous  care  and  attention,  Amoosta 
revived.  For  three  years  she  was  my  wife  in 
Calcutta — for  six  more  in  Bombay — and  now  in 
Ceylon,  you  can  judge  for  yourself  by  what  she 
is,  after  having  borne  me  six  children,  and  experi- 
enced many  trials,  whether  I  have  exaggerated  as 
to  what  she  was." 


s     3 


[     890     ] 


1 


APPENDIX. 


HISTOEY  OF  CEYLON,  1140-1186,  a.d. 


THE  EEiaN  OF  PBACKEAMA  THE  GREAT. 

jSTothing  perhaps  can  sliow  more  forcibly  the  sameness 
of  the  human  character,  all  over  the  globe,  than  the  fact 
that  the  manner  in  which  the  princes  of  the  tropical  and 
luxuriant  Ceylon  were  educated  in  the  earliest  times,  was 
very  similar  to  that  by  which  a  modem  English  gentleman 
is  fitted  for  his  duties.*  Prackrama,  we  are  informed,  was 
first  introduced  to  the  literature  of  his  country — or  more 
properly,  perhaps,  of  his  religion — by  a  priest  of  great  lite- 
rary attainments  ;  remarkable  as  well  for  extent  of  know- 
ledge as  for  profoundness  of  intellect.  Under  his  tiution 
the  young  prince  became  a  profound  master  of  the  Budhist 
faith,  of  logic,  grammar,  poetry,  and  music.  Nor  were 
physical  exercises  wanting  to  give  strength  to  his  body 
and  decision  to  his  mmd.  Horsemanship,  archery,  and 
the  management  of  elephants,  were  also  cultivated  by 
him  with  success  ;  and,  under  the  paternal  instructions 
and  care  of  his  cousin,  he  became  fit  for  the  station  which 
he  was  afterwards  to  fill,  but  he  had  yet  to  complete  his 
education  by  travelling.  For  this  purpose  he  set  out  with 
a  dignified  retinue,  and  as  the  countries  which  he  visited 

*  We  must  not  forget,  however,  that  this  enliglitened  education  was 
given  in  Ceylon  when  Europe  was  confined  to  the  trivium  of  the 
schools. 


APPENDIX.  391 

are  not  mentioned,  we  may  fairly  conclude  that  they 
would  be  the  neighbouring  shores  of  the  continent,  and, 
perhaps,  Burmah. 

The  mind  of  Prackrama,  however,  needed  not  the  ex- 
citement of  travel  to  render  it  active  and  ambitious.  On 
returning  to  Ceylon  he  was  miwilling  to  hold  the  station 
of  a  subordinate,  and  fonned  the  ungenerous  resolu- 
tion of  dethroning  Gajabahu  the  reigning  prince  of 
Eohona.  What  an  exemplification  of  the  ingenious  re- 
mark of  Cicero  does  this  afford  us :  "  Verse  amicitiae 
rarissime  inveniuntur  in  iis  qui  in  honoribus  reipublicce  ver- 
santur."  Respecting  the  particulars  of  his  enterprize  we 
are  left  uninformed.  It  is  however  stated,  that  having 
beconil  by  his  imposing  qualities  the  favourite  of  the 
people,  he  found  little  difficulty  in  obtaining  an  arma- 
ment. His  first  enterprise  was  against  the  subor- 
dinate governor  of  a  small  province,  called  Badalattaliya. 
Him  he  defeated  and  slew,  and  next  directed  his  march 
against  Gajabahu,  whom  he  obliged  to  fly  from  the  capital 
into  Saffragam.  The  capital  was  retaken  afterwards  by 
Grajabahu,  and  when  both  parties  were  on  the  eve  of  a 
decisive  struggle,  the  priests  interposed  and  brought 
about  an  accommodation.  By  this  agreement  Prackrama 
received  the  sovereignty  from  his  competitor,  who  volun- 
tarily resigned  it  a.  d.  1153,  precisely  twenty-seven  years 
subsequent  to  the  death  of  "Wijayabahu,  making  the 
119th  prince  of  the  Singha  race  who  moimted  the  Sin- 
ghalese throne.  In  this  great  number  many  subordinate 
princes  are  of  course  included,  and  many  whose  names 
we  have  not  mentioned,  their  reigns  affording  little  but 
the  name. 

On  the  abdication  of  Gajabahu,AVickramabahu  asserted 
his  claim  to  the  supremacy,  a  claim  which  Prackrama  was 
by  no  means  prepared  to  allow.  Avoiding  as  much  as 
possible  a  contest  with  bis  father,  the  young  prince  pro- 


'392  APPENDIX. 

ceeded  to  reduce  some  other  parts  of  the  Idngdom  T\ineli 
still  resisted  his  authority.  During  his  absence  on  this 
expedition,  Wickrama,  ^-ith  an  ungenerous  treachery, 
sent  an  army  into  his  defenceless  province,  which  occu- 
pied the  principal  fortresses.  Prackrama  hastened  back 
to  revenge  the  injury,  and  by  hisj)reseuce  quickly  changed 
the  situation  of  affairs.  Pihitee,  the  province  of  which 
Pollanarua  was  the  capital,  was  quickly  delivered  from  its 
enemies,  and  Prackrama's  father  was  obliged  to  recross  the 
Mahavelli-ganga  as  a  fugitive.  Shortly  before  his  death 
he  sent  for  his  son ;  mutual  forgiveness  was  exchanged 
between  them,  and  the  aged  prince  died,  at  peace  with 
his  impetuous  offspring. 

We  must  not  omit  a  romantic  adventure  related%f  the 
prince,  Avhich  woidd,  Avere  it  true,  entitle  him  to  the 
appellation  "  Coeur  de  Lion"  more  justly,  perhaps, 
than  its  ascription  to  Kichard  of  England.  When  tra- 
velling with  a  small  train  of  attendants,  through  an  lui- 
frequented  part  of  the  country,  an  enormous  lion  sprang 
forward,  with  open  jaws  and  lashing  tail,  as  though  mad- 
dened with  rage.  All  the  attendants  of  the  prince  fled, 
leaA-ing  him  alone.  He  disdained  to  retreat ;  and,  ad- 
vancing, grappled  with  the  Hon,  to  such  advantage  that 
the  monarch  of  the  forest  preferred  flight  to  tlie  combat, 
and  left  him  rejoicing  in  his  prowess.  Lions,  liowever, 
being  unheard  of  in  the  island,  we  may  reasonably  doubt 
the  truth  of  the  story. 

Ha\dng  become  undisputed  monarch  of  the  island, 
Prackrama  commenced  his  reign  by  restoring  Budhism 
to  all  its  ancient  magnificence.  Por  this  pm^pose  he 
appointed  i)ai'ticular  officers  to  inspect  the  state  of  the 
temples,  and  report  accordingly  :  he  spared  no  expense  in 
sujiplying  liimself  with  valuable  woi'ks  for  these  templesj 
and  paid  nuich  lionour  to  the  priestliood.  The  leaders  by 
Avliose  assistance  ho  had  gained  the  tlu-one  were  placed  in 


APPENDIX.  393 

situations  suitable  to  their  merits.  Guards  were  sta- 
tioned round  the  coast  to  give  notice  of  hostile  intnision. 
Canals  and  tankswhich  had  become  chokedwere  clearedand 
again  made  beneficial.  Strong  fortifications  were  erected 
in  convenient  positions,  as  places  of  refuge  in  case  of 
sudden  reverse.  '  Eice-fields  were  formed  of  great  extent. 
A  rampart  of  stone  was  erected  round  the  capital,  and,  in 
fact,  no  means  were  neglected  to  render  his  kingdom 
prosperous  and  powerfid.  Nor  were  these  exertions  vain; 
for  we  are  informed  that  Ceylon  became  by  them  united 
and  powerful  as  a  nation,  and  its  inhabitants  happy  and 
flourishing.  A  palace  for  himself,  and  suitable  habitations 
for  the  higher  orders  of  priesthood,  were  next  erected; 
and  an  extensive  garden  was  planned,  with  a  coronation 
hall  in  the  midst.  The  wall  encompassing  Pollanarua, 
we  are  informed,  w^as  thirty-six  miles  in  length  on  one 
side,  and  sixteen  on  the  other,  showing,  if  this  assertion 
be  true,  the  enormous  size  of  the  city  itself.  Whilst  he 
was  tluis  embellishing  his  capital,  the  ancient  city  of 
Auuradhapoora  was  not  neglected.  A  minister  was  sent 
there  for  the  express  purpose  of  investigating  the  state  of 
the  buildings,  and  of  having  them  put  into  proper  repair. 

AVhilst  thus  cultivating,  with  so  much  success,  the  arts 
of  peace,  Prackrama  was  suddenly  interrupted  by  a  revolt 
in  Eohona.  This  revolt  w^as  instigated  by  Subhala,  the 
consort  of  the  tributary  prince  who  had  been  conquered 
by  Prackrama.  The  resolution  to  rebel  having  been 
taken,  she  carried  on  the  necessary  preparations  with 
great  spirit  and  energy,  proving,  by  her  abilities,  that  she 
was  an  enemy  not  unworthy  of  Prackrama  himself. 

Large  and  deep  ihoats  were  dug  round  the  fortified 
places.  The  roads  leading  into  the  pro\dnce  were  ren- 
dered impassable"  to  the  elephants  and  cavalry  by  large 
trees  ^\"hicll  they  had  felled,  and  fixed  deeply  in  the  ground 
by  stakes.     The  plains  were  covered  by  the  Eohonians 


394  APPENDIX. 

with  brambles  and  thorns,  and,  in  sliort,  every  means 
taken  for  a  vigorous  defence.  Prackrania  was  not  dis- 
posed to  regard  these  things  vdth  indifference.  Eackha, 
one  of  his  okl  generals,  was  placed  at  the  head  of  a  large 
and  well-armed  force.  Having  marched  directly  against 
the  enemy,  he  found  them  determined  to  defend  one  of 
the  roads  which  they  had  before  fortified.  An  obstinate 
battle  ensued,  in  wliich  the  Eohonians  were  at  last  obliged 
to  give  way.  Their  retreat  became  a  flight,  their  flight  a 
rout ;  and  at  the  same  time  the  adjoining  fort,  into  which 
they  attempted  to  throw  themselves,  was  carried  in  the 
melee.  The  hopes  of  these  mountaineers  were  not  to  be 
overcome,  however,  by  the  loss  of  a  single  battle ;  and  so 
closely  was  Eackha  beset  in  the  conquered  fort,  that  he 
was  obliged  to  send  to  Prackrama  for  a  reinforcement. 

Bhutha,  another  of  the  generals  and  friends  of  Prack- 
rama, was  immediately  despatched  to  his  aid,  and  a  junc- 
tion of  the  two  armies  was,  after  some  delay,  effected. 
The  war  was  then  renewed  "  with  redoubled  spirit." 
Many  battles  were  fought  vsdth  various  success,  bvit,  on 
the  whole,  so  much  to  tlie  disadvantage  of  the  Eohouians, 
that  they  formed  the  resolution  of  emigrating  in  a  body 
with  all  their  goods ;  and,  what  was  more  thought  of 
with  many  of  the  relics  of  Budha.  Prackrama  having 
been  informed  by  some  of  his  private  emissaries  of  their 
intention,  sent  strict  orders  to  Eackha  and  Bhutha  to 
leave  no  exertion  untried  to  prevent  its  execution.  In 
order  to  give  them  the  means  of  obeying  his  command  a 
fresh  reinforcement  was  despatched  under  tlie  command 
of  Kierthy^  A  line  of  circumvallation  was  tlien  drawn 
by  the  imited  forces  round  the  principal  strongliolds  of 
the  rebels,  and  so  weU  arranged  were  their  exertions  that 
no  large  body  could  leave  the  district  without  their  per- 
mission. Straitened  by  the  strict  blockade  wliich  they 
endured,  the  liohonians  were  at  length  forced  to  sur- 


APPENDIX.  395 

render  the  relics  and  submit.  Subhala,  however,  the 
ambitious  woman  who  had  incited  the  rebellion,  was  not 
taken,  nor  does  it  appear  that  the  generals  of  the  king 
insisted,  as  they  ought  to  have  done,  on  her  surrender. 
Having  thus  restored  the  kingdom  once  more  to  peace 
and  prosperity,  the  king  resolved  to  impose  upon  the 
vulgar  minds  of  the  people  by  a  magnificent  procession, 
as  a  type  of  his  power  and  prosperity. 

On  a  fortunate  day,  appointed  by  the  astrologers,  the 
king  appeared  before  his  attending  nobles,  liis  courtiers 
holding  an  emblazoned  canopy  over  his  head.  Imme- 
diately on  his  appearance  instruments  of  music  were 
sounded  on  all  sides  ;  banners  waved  in  the  air ;  the 
people  shouted,  "  like  the  loud  bellowing  of  the  rushing 
sea,"  "Long  Kve  the  king!"  whilst  the  sky  was  almost 
clouded  by  the  smoking  perfumes  of  all  kinds.  The 
haughty  Prackrama  having  bowed  to  the  multitudes 
arovuid,  then  ascended  the  royal  elephant,  at  the  same 
time  that  the  nobles  entered  into  their  carriages.  "  With 
great  pomp,  amidst  the  noise  of  the  roaring  of  elephants, 
neighing  and  prancing  of  horses,  rattling  of  carriages, 
beating  of  tom-toms,  blowing  of  chanks,  and  playing  of 
music,"*  the  procession  w^ended  its  way  along.  The 
queen  and  Prackrama  appeared  at  its  head,  in  two 
splendid  towers  placed  on  elephants,  with  golden  crowns 
upon  their  heads.  Next  followed  the  principal  leaders  of 
the  late  rebellion,  walking,  followed  by  the  officers  of 
state  and  grandees,  whilst  innumerable  multitudes  con- 
cluded the  imposing  show.  Such  an  important  ceremony 
was  not  allowed,  however,  to  pass  over  without  a  miracle. 
Suddenly,  in  the  midst  of  their  pomp,  the  sky  became 
overcast,  the  heavens  lowered,  and  threatened  the  re- 
joicers  with  an  inopportune  deluge.  The  thunder  then 
began  to  roar,  the  lightning  to  flash,  and  a  keen  wind  to 

*  Mahawanso,  ch.  73. 


396 


APPEXDIX. 


course  over  the  earth.  Prackrama  was  uot  a  mau  to  be 
frightened  with  a  tempest :  the  procession  went  on,  re- 
gardless of  the  impending  rain,  and  now  behold  the 
miracle  !  The  rain  descended  in  volumes  all  aroimd,  but 
not  a  drop  upon  man  or  beast  engaged  in  the  ceremony. 
Whilst  the  neighbouring  rivers  and  tanks  were  choked 
with  water,  they  remained  perfectly  dry.  "  Behold," 
exclaims  the  author  of  the  Mahawanso,  "  this  striking 
instance  of  the  power  of  Budha." 

But  even  this  instance  of  Divine  favoiu'  coidd  not 
humble  the  mind  of  Subhala  :  the  daughter  and  wife  of  a 
king,  she  still  asserted  her  rights  to  be  a  monarch  ;  and 
scarcely  had  the  rejoicings  of  Prackrama  ended  ere  intel- 
ligence was  brought  from  Rohona  of  another  insurrection. 
Two  battles  (in  one  of  which  12,000  Eohonians  are  said 
to  have  fallen)  and  a  siege  were  the  result  of  this  teme- 
rity, and  the  enterprising  queen  was  at  length  brought  as 
a  caj)tive  before  her  rival.  Of  her  future  iate  we  are 
uninformed ;  but  as  her  name  does  not  occur  again  in  the 
ainials  of  her  countr}- ,  we  may  conclude  that  her  life  paid 
the  penalty  of  her  rebellion. 

Subsequent  to  the  sixteenth  year  of  Praclcrama's  reign 
(a.  d.  1169),  and  probably  very  shortly  after  that  year, 
although  we  are  uninformed  of  the  precise  period,  he 
formed  the  resolution  of  revenging  on  the  king  of  Cam- 
bodia *  and  Arramanat  the  injuries  he  had  inflicted  on 
several  of  the  Singhalese  subjects.  These  injuries  con- 
sisted iu  plundering  merchants,  slighting  the  ambassador 
of  Ceylon,  and  intercepting  some  vessels  conveying  cer- 
tain women  of  rank  from  that  island  to  the  continent. 

In  the  Eatnacari  and  Eajawali,  however,  the  only 
reason  stated  for  this  invasion  is,  that  he  slighted  and 

*  Tliis  country  still  retains  its  ancient  appellation. 
t  Probably  that  part  of  the  Burmese  peuiusula  between  Arrakan 
and  Si  am. 


APPENDIX,  307 

dishououred  the  religion  of  Budha,  au  offence  worthy, 
in  their  eyes,  of  the  most  condign  punishment.  To 
avenge  himself  on  this  despiser  of  Budha,  and  slighter 
of  Ceylon,  five  hundred  vessels,  and  a  great  armament 
of  seamen  and  soldiers,  ammimition,  and  provisions, 
were  equipped  in  a  few  months.  A  Malabar  general, 
named  Adikarara,  of  great  and  distinguished  reuo^^n,  was 
put  at  the  head  of  this  expedition,  and  it  was  accordingly 
despatched. 

Having  first  landed  on  an  island  called  Kakha,  they 
obtained  good  omens  of  their  futiure  success  by  gaining 
the  first  battle  in  which  they  engaged,  the  consequence 
of  which  was  the  submission  of  that  part  of  the  island 
and  the  taking  of  several  prisoners.  Encouraged  by  this 
success  they  sailed  for  Cambodia,  and  landed  at  a  port 
called  Koosiuna,  where  the  enemy  appeared  drawn  up  in 
front  of  their  entrenchments  in  great  force. 

Adikaram,  having  drawn  up  his  forces  in  line  of  battle 
on  the  beach,  advanced  against  the  enemy,  and  was  re- 
ceived with  showers  of  arrows,  which  the  Singhalese 
returned;  but,  as  the  Cambodians  seemed  unwilling  to 
leave  their  entrenchments,  it  was  necessary  for  Adikaram 
to  force  them,  and  this  he  accomplished  by  a  resolute  and 
determined  attack.  Sword  in  hand  the  Singhalese  ad- 
vanced, disregarding  the  missiles  of  the  enemy,  and,  after 
a  short  but  severe  struggle,  the  entrenchments  were 
forced,  the  Cambodians  routed,  and  their  Icing  slain  in 
the  confusion. 

Adikaram,  like  a  prudent  general,  lost  no  time  in  fol- 
lowing up  his  advantages  by  advancing  on  the  capital, 
where  the  coimtry  was  proclaimed  tributary  to  the  great 
and  glorious  Prackramabahu,  king  of  Ceylon.  Tribute 
was  accordingly  collected,  and  a  viceroy  appointed. 

After  this  signal  success,  Prackrama  turned  his  arms 
against   the  imited  kingdoms   of  Pandi  and   Sollee,   in 


398  APPENDIX. 

soutliern  India,  wlio,  fearing  to  meet  alone  so  formidable  a 
prince,  had  prudently  joined  their  forces.  Ajiother  expe- 
dition was  fitted  out,  and  proceeded  to  the  enemies'  terri- 
tories. At  Madura,  where  a  landing  was  first  attempted, 
thej  found  the  shore  so  thickly  covered  with  the  enemy 
that  they  were  obliged  to  proceed  np  the  coast  to  Talat- 
chilla  (probably  Tellicherry)  ;  there  also,  however,  the 
enemy  had  anticipated  them,  and  were  assembled  in  force. 
The  army  of  Prackrama  was  not  to  be  twice  repvdsed  ; 
numerous  boats  were  manned  with  the  troops,  which, 
amidst  showers  of  arrows  and  spears,  advanced  towards 
the  shore,  and,  as  soon  as  a  convenient  station  had  been 
gained,  the  soldiers  leaped  out :  stooping,  and  covering 
themselves  with  their  shields,  they  advanced  in  a  line 
against  their  opposers,  and  fortunately  succeeded  in  put- 
ting them  to  flight.  A  landing  having  thus  been  eSected 
with  so  much  difficulty,  the  invaders  found  the  remaining 
part  of  the  country  was  as  obstinately  contested  as  the 
shore  had  been.  Five  pitched  battles  were  fought,  in  each 
of  which  the  army  of  Prackrama  was  successful,  and  bv 
which  the  whole  province  of  Eamisseram  came  into  the 
possession  of  the  Singhalese.  Whilst  the  invaders  were, 
after  these  exploits,  enjoying  the  fruits  of  their  victories  in 
their  encampments,  an  army  of  the  enemy  hastily  attacked 
them,  and  had  well  nigh  rendered  all  their  previous  vic- 
tories useless.  But  the  Singhalese  were  now  soldiers  in 
every  sense  of  the  word,  and  quickly  revenged  the  losses 
they  had  sustained,  so  that  in  the  last  and  most  terrible 
conflict  the  Pandians  sustained  a  severe  defeat ;  thousands 
of  them  were  slain,  and  the  remainder  was  pursued  by 
the  whole  Singhalese  army  for  a  distance  of  sixteen  miles. 
The  consequence  of  these  victories  was,  that  Kulasaikera, 
the  king  of  Pandi,  was  dethroned,  and  his  son,  Weera- 
pandu,  raised  in  his  stead,  as  a  tributary  of  Prackrama. 
Having  thus  happily  terminated  his  foreign  wars,  the 


APPENDIX.  399 

attentiou  of  the  king  was  next  directed  to  the  adornment 
of  Budhism.  The  religious  edifices  of  Anuradhapoora 
were  enriched  with  numerous  offerings  and  additions,  and 
Prackrama  himself  went  there  to  superintend  the  erection 
of  a  golden  spire  upon  the  Euanelli  dagobah.  Events  of 
this  kind  are  those  upon  which  the  Budhist  historians 
delight  to  dwell ;  and,  accordingly,  we  have  a  particular 
account  of  how  the  city  was  ornamented,  how  beautiful 
the  women  were,  how  glittering  the  flags,  and  how  noble 
the  entire  ceremony ;  whilst  his  warlike  enterprises  are 
rehearsed  only  by  informing  us  of  the  niunber  of  the  bat- 
tles, and  the  names  of  the  subdued  countries. 

Prackrama,  however,  did  not  confine  himself  to  the 
embellishment  of  a  religion  already  too  rich  and  powerful. 
Besides  erecting  new,  and  adorning  old  religious  edi- 
fices, he  planted  several  immense  forests  of  fruit-trees, 
and  turned  the  courses  of  several  rivers,  so  that  they 
might  replenish  the  tanks  already  formed.  Canals  also 
were  dug  by  him  to  conduct  the  waters  of  the  tanks  and 
lakes  to  a  distance.  The  following  three  of  this  nature 
are  particularly  mentioned  as  extraordinary  works:  the 
Goodai\dree  Canal  to  conduct  the  waters  of  the  Kara- 
gauga  into  a  lake,  called  the  Sea  of  Prackrama,  from 
which  the  water  was  conducted  by  twenty-four  channels 
to  all  the  neighbouring  fields  ;  the  lake  of  Minneria  he 
made  available  for  useful  purposes,  by  digging  the  Ka- 
linda  Canal,  to  conduct  its  waters  to  the  northward;  and, 
lastly,  the  Jaya-ganga  Canal,  by  which  the  Kalaawene 
tank  was  rendered  serviceable  to  the  inhabitants  of 
Anuradhapoora. 

Were  we  to  give  a  list  of  one  half  of  the  useful  build- 
ings attributed  to  Prackrama,  we  would  completely  weary 
out  our  readers  :  dagobahs,  -nihares,  relic  repositaries, 
offering-houses,  caverns,  priests' -houses,  preaching-halls, 
image-halls,  dancing-saloons,  and   strangers' -houses,  are 


400  ■    AITEXDIX. 

but  a  few  of  the  motley  collection  of  edifices  recounted 
with  critical  accuracy  by  tlie  zealous  Budhists.  Amongst 
these,  however,  we  must  remark  that  several  halls  of  jus- 
tice, and  128  libraries  are  particularly  enumerated.  There 
appears  little  reason  to  doubt  the  truth  of  tliese  details. 
Prackrama  was  by  birth  tlie  sovereign  of  a  rich,  fertile, 
and  popidous  country  ;  he  had,  besides,  rendered  himself 
by  arms  the  master  of  two  important  and  extensive 
kingdoms,  and  being  of  such  an  active,  energetic  dis- 
position, it  is  but  natural  to  suppose  that  his  many  years 
of  peace  were  occupied  almost  altogether  in  adorning  his 
comitry. 

In  reviewing  his  character  there  appears,  as  in  that  of 
most  other  conquerors,  much  to  praise  and  much  to 
blame.  We  cannot  commend  his  evident  ingratitude  and 
injustice  to  Grajabahu,  in  the  early  part  of  his  life  ;  at 
the  same  time  that  we  must  admire  the  decision  and 
promptitude  of  all  his  measures.  He  appears  to  have 
possessed,  in  an  eminent  degree,  aU  the  qualities  of  a 
great  commander ;  a  quick  apprehension  of  the  difficulties 
and  advantages  of  his  situation  on  every  occasion  ;  great 
forethought  and  judgment  in  the  formation  of  lais  plans, 
and  no  less  decision  in  their  execution.  He  knew  emi- 
nently well  how  to  gain  the  affections  of  his  people  ;  how 
to  oppose  presumption  and  to  reward  merit.  Nor  was 
his  ability  displayed  alone  in  military  affairs :  he  appears 
to  have  been  equally  energetic  when  at  peace ;  equally 
anxious  to  advance  his  OAvn  glory  and  that  of  his  people. 
"Without  one  spark  of  patriotism  in  his  bosom,  he  was 
eminently  useful  to  his  country,  and  it  is  with  justice 
that  his  reign  has  been  designated  as  "  the  most  martial, 
enterprising,  and  glorious  in  the  Singhalese  history." — 
Knighton'' s  Historij  of  C(')/hri,  pp.  134-147. 


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Second  Edition,  Revised.     2  vols.  8vo.,  with  Portraits.     30s. 


OPINIONS    OF    THE    PRESS. 

"  These  vokmies  contain  much  vahiable  matter.  The  letters  which  George, 
first  Marquis  of  Buckingham,  laid  by  as  worthy  of  preservation,  have  some  claim 
to  see  the  light,  for  he  held  more  than  one  office  in  the  State,  and  consequently 
kept  up  a  communication  with  a  great  number  of  historical  personages.  He 
himself  was  twice  Lord-Lieutenant  of  Ireland ;  first,  under  Lord  Rockingham,  and 
secondly,  under  Pitt ;  his  most  constant  correspondents  were  his  two  brothers, 
William  and  Thomas  Grenville,  both  of  whom  spent  the  chief  part  of  their  lives 
in  official  employments,  and  of  whom  the  former  is  sufficiently  known  to  fame 
as  Lord  Grenville.  The  staple  of  the  book  is  made  up  of  these  family  documents, 
but  there  are  also  to  be  found  interspersed  with  the  Grenville  narrative,  letters 
from  every  man  of  note,  dating  from  the  death  of  the  elder  Pitt  to  the  end  of 
the  century.  There  are  three  periods  upon  which  they  shed  a  good  deal  of  light. 
The  formation  of  the  Coalition  Ministry  in  1783,  the  illness  of  the  King  in  1788, 
and  the  first  war  with  Republican  France.  Lord  Grenville's  letters  to  his  brother 
aflford  a  good  deal  of  information  on  the  machinations  of  the  Prince's  party,  and 
the  conduct  of  the  Prince  and  the  Duke  of  York  during  the  King's  illness." — The 
Times. 

"  A  very  remarkable  and  valuable  publication.  The  Duke  of  Buckingham  has 
himself  undertaken  the  task  of  forming  a  history  from  the  papers  of  his  grand- 
father and  great-uncle,  the  Earl  Temple  (first  Marquis  of  Buckingham),  and  Lord 
Grenville,  of  the  days  of  the  second  \Vm.  Pitt.  The  letters  which  are  given  to 
the  public  in  these  volumes,  extend  over  an  interval  commencing  with  1782,  and 
ending  with  1800.  In  that  interval  events  occurred  which  can  never  lose  their 
interest  as  incidents  in  the  history  of  England.  The  Coalition  Ministry  atid  its 
dismissal  by  the  King — the  resistance  of  the  Sovereign  and  Pitt  to  the  efforts  of 
the  discarded  ministers  to  force  themselves  again  into   office — the  great   con- 


HURST   AND    BLaCKETT  S    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 


THE    COURT   AND    CABINETS    OF    GEORGE    III.  ^ 

OPINIONS    OF    THE    PRESS CONTINUED. 

stitutional  question  of  the  Regency  which  arose  upon  the  King's  disastrous  ma 
— the  contest  upon  that  question  between  the  heir  apparent  and  the  mini 
of  the  Crown — the  breaking  out  of  the  French  Revolution,  and  the  conseq 
entrance   of  England   upon  the  great   European  war, — these,   with  the  u. 
with  Ireland,  are  political  movements  every  detail  of  which  possesses  the  deej 
interest.     In  these  volumes,  details,  then  guarded  with  the  most  anxious  Ca 
from  all  eyes  but  those  of  the  privileged  few,  are  now  for  the  first  time  given  t^ 
the  public.     The  most  secret  history  of  many  of  the  transactions  is  laid  bare. 
It  is  not  possible  to  conceive  contemporary  history  more  completely  exemplified. 
From  such  materials  it  was  not  possible  to  form  a  work  that  would  not  possess 
the  very  highest  interest.     The  Duke  of  Buckingham  has,  however,  moulded  liis 
materials  with  no  ordinary  ability  and  skill.     The  connecting  narrative  is  written 
both  with  judgment  and  vigour — not  unfrequently  in  a  style  that  comes  up  to  ' 
the  highest  order  of  historical  composition — especially  in  some  of  the  sketcl^^s  of 
personal  character.     There  is  scarcely  a  single  individual  of  celebrity  throughout 
the  period  from  1782  to  1800  who  is  not  introduced  into  these  pages ;  amongst 
others,  besides  the  King  and  the  various  members  of  the  royal  family,  are  Rock- 
ingham, Shelburne,  North,  Thurlow,  Loughborough,  Fox,  Pitt,  Sheridan,  Burke, 
Portland,  Sydney,  Fitzwilliam,  Tierney,   I3uckingham,  Grenville,  Grey,   Malmes- 
bury,  Wilberforce.Burdett,  Fitzgibbon,  Grattan,  Flood,  Cornwallis,  the  Beresfords, 
the  Ponsonbys,  the  Wellesleys,  &iC."—Morniny  Herald. 

"  These  memoirs  are  among  the  most  valuable  materials  for  history  that  have 
recently  been  brought  to  light  out  of  the  archives  of  any  of  our  great  families. 
The  period  embraced  by  the  letters  is  from  the  beginning  of  1782  to  the  close 
of  1799,  comprising  the  last  days  of  the  North  Administration,  the  brief  life  of 
the  Rockingham,  and  the  troubled  life  of  the  Shelburne  Ministry,  the  stormy 
career  of  the  Coalition  of  '83,  the  not  less  stormy  debates  and  intrigues  which 
broke  out  on  the  first  insanity  of  the  King,  the  gradual  modifications  of  Pitt's  first 
Ministry,  and  the  opening  days  of  the  struggle  with  France  after  her  first  great 
revolution.  Of  these  the  most  valuable  illustrations  concern  the  motives  of  Fox 
in  withdrawing  from  Shelburne  and  joining  with  North  against  him,  the  desperate 
intriguing  and  deliberate  bad  faith  of  the  King  exerted  against  the  Coalition,  and 
the  profligacy  and  heartlessness  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  brother  all  through 
the  Regency  debates.  On  some  incidental  subjects,  also,  as  the  affairs  of  Ireland, 
the  Wiirren  Hastings  trial,  the  Fitzgerald  outbreak,  the  Union,  the  sad  vicissitudes 
and  miseries  of  the  last  days  of  the  old  French  monarchy,  &c.,  the  volumes  supply 
illustrative  facts  and  comments  of  much  interest." — Examiner. 

"  This  valuable  contribution  to  the  treasures  of  historic  lore,  now  for  the 
first  time  produced  from  the  archives  of  the  Buckingham  family  displays  the 
action  of  the  ditforcnt  parties  in  the  State,  throws  great  light  on  the  personal 
character  of  the  King,  as  well  as  on  the  share  which  he  took  in  the  direction  of 
public  affairs,  and  incidentally  reveals  many  facts  hitherto  but  imperfectly  known 
or  altogether  unknown.  In  order  to  render  the  contents  of  the  letters  more 
intelligible,  the  noble  Editor  has,  with  great  tact  and  judgment,  set  them  out  in 
a  kind  of  historical  framework,  in  which  the  leading  circumstances  under  which 
they  were  written  are  briefly  indicated — the  result  being  a  happy  combination  of 
the  completeness  of  historical  narrative  with  the  freshness  of  original  thought 
and  of  contemporaneous  record." — John  Bull. 

"  These  volumes  are  a  treasure  for  the  politician,  and  a  mine  of  wealth  for  the 
historian." — Britannia. 


HISTORY    AND    BIOGRAPHY. 


LORD    GEOUGE    BENTINCK: 

A  POLITICAL  BIOGRAPHY. 

BY   THE   BIGHT   HON.   B.   DISRAELI,   M.P. 

Fifth  and  Cheaper  Edition,  Revised.     Post  8vo.  10s.  Gd. 


From  Blackwood's  ]\Iagazine. — "  This  biography  cannot  fail  to  attract  the 
deep  attention  of  the  public.  We  are  bound  to  say,  that  as  a  political  biography 
we  have  rarely,  if  ever,  met  with  a  book  more  dexterously  handled,  or  more 
replete  with  interest.  The  history  of  the  famous  session  of  1846,  as  written  by 
Disraeli  in  that  briUiant  and  pointed  style  of  which  he  is  so  consummate  a  master, 
is  deeply  interesting.  He  has  traced  this  memorable  struggle  with  a  vivacity  and 
powerkunequalled  as  yet  in  any  narrative  of  Parliamentary  proceedings." 

From  The  Dublin  University  Magazine. — "  A  political  biography  of 
Lord  George  Bentinck  by  Mr.  Disraeli  must  needs  be  a  work  of  interest  and 
importance.  Either  the  subject  or  the  writer  would  be  sufficient  to  invest  it 
with  both — the  combination  surrounds  it  with  peculiar  attractions.  In  this 
most  interesting  volume  IVIr.  Disraeli  has  produced  a  memoir  of  his  friend  in 
which  he  has  combined  the  warmest  enthusiasm  of  atfectionate  attachment  with 
the  calmness  of  the  critic." 

From  The  Morning  Herald  — "  Mr.  Disraeli's  tribute  to  the  memory  of 
his  departed  friend  is  as  graceful  and  as  touching  as  it  is  accurate  and  impartial. 
No  one  of  Lord  George  Bentinck's  colleagues  could  have  been  selected,  who, 
from  his  high  literary  attainments,  his  personal  intimacy,  and  party  associations, 
would  have  done  such  complete  justice  to  the  memory  of  a  friend  and  Parlia- 
mentary associate.  Mr.  Disraeli  has  here  presented  us  with  the  very  type  and 
embodiment  of  what  history  should  be.  His  sketch  of  the  condition  of  parties 
is  seasoned  with  some  of  those  piquant  personal  episodes  of  party  manoeuvres 
and  private  intrigues,  in  the  author's  happiest  and  most  captivating  vein,  which 
convert  the  dry  details  of  politics  into  a  sparkling  and  agreeable  narrative." 


LOUD  PALMERSTON'S  OPINIONS 
AND    POLICY; 

AS  MINISTER.  DIPLOMATIST,  AND  STATESMAN, 

during  more  than  forty  years  of  public  life. 
1  V.  8vo.,  with  Portrait,  12s. 

"  This  work  ought  to  have  a  place  in  every  political  library.  It  gives  a  com- 
plete view  of  the  sentiments  and  opinions  by  which  the  policy  of  Lord 
Palmerston  has  been  dictated  as  a  diplomatist  and  statesman." — Chronicle. 

"  This  is  a  remarkable  and  seasonable  pubhcation ;  but  it  is  something  more — 
it  is  a  valuable  addition  to  the  historical  treasures  of  our  countrj'  during  more 
than  forty  of  the  most  memorable  years  of  our  annals.  We  earnestly  recommend 
flie  volume  to  general  perusal." — Standard. 


4  HURST   AND    BLACKETT  S    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 

THE  LIFE  OE  MARIE   DE   MEDICIS, 

QUEEN  OF  FRANCE, 

CONSORT  OF  HENRY  IV.,  AND  REGENT  UNDER  LOUIS  XIIL 

BY    MISS    PARDOE, 

Author  of  "Louis  XIV.  and  the  Court  of  France,  in  the  1 7th  Century,"  &c. 

Second  Edition.    3  large  vols.  8vo,,  with  Fine  Portraits. 


"  A  fascinating  book.  The  history  of  such  a  woman  as  the  beautiful,  impulsive, 
earnest,  and  affectionate  Marie  de  Medicis  could  only  be  done  justice  to  by  a 
female  pen,  impelled  by  all  the  sympathies  of  womanhood,  but  strengthened  by 
an  erudition  by  which  it  is  not  in  every  case  accompanied.  In  Miss  Pardee  the 
unfortunate  Queen  has  found  both  these  requisites,  and  the  result  has  been  a 
biography  combining  the  attractiveness  of  romance  with  the  reliableness  of  his- 
tory, and  which,  taking  a  place  midway  between  the  '  frescoed  galleries'  of 
Thierry,  and  the  'philosophic  watch-tower  of  Guizot,'hasalI  the  pictorial  brilliancy 
of  the  one,  with  much  of  the  reflective  speculation  of  the  other." — Daily  News. 

"■  A  valuable,  well-written,  and  elaborate  biography,  displaying  an  unusual 
amount  of  industry  and  research." — Morning  Chronicle. 

"  A  careful  and  elaborate  historical  composition,  rich  in  personal  anecdote. 
Nowhere  can  a  more  intimate  acquaintance  be  obtained  with  the  principal  events 
and  leading  personages  of  the  first  half  of  the  17th  century." — Morning  Post. 

"  A  work  of  high  literary  and  historical  merit.  Rarely  have  the  strange 
vicissitudes  of  romance  been  more  intimately  blended  with  the  facts  of  real 
history  than  in  the  life  of  Marie  de  Medicis  ;  nor  has  the  difficult  problem  oi 
combining  with  the  fidelity  of  biography  the  graphic  power  of  dramatic  delineation 
been  often  more  successfully  solved  than  by  the  talented  author  of  the  volumes 
before  us.  As  a  personal  narrative,  Miss  Pardoe's  admirable  biography  possesses 
the  most  absorbing  and  constantly  sustained  interest ;  as  a  historical  record  of  the 
events  of  which  it  treats,  its  merit  is  of  no  ordinary  description." — John  Bull. 

"  A  life  more  dramatic  than  that  of  Marie  de  Medicis  has  seldom  been  written: 
one  more  imperially  tragic,  never.  The  period  of  French  history  chosen  by  Miss 
Pardoe  is  rich  in  all  manner  of  associations,  and  brings  together  the  loftiest 
names  and  most  interesting  events  of  a  stirring  and  dazzling  epoch.  She  has 
been,  moreover,  exceedingly  fortunate  in  her  materials.  A  mamiscript  of  the  Com- 
mandeur  de  Rambure,  Gentleman  of  the  Bedchamber  under  the  Kings  Henry  IV. 
Louis  XIIL,  and  Louis  XIV.,  consisting  of  the  memoirs  of  the  writer,  with  al 
the  most  memorable  events  which  took  place  during  the  reigns  of  those  three 
Majesties,  from  the  year  1594  to  that  of  IGtiO,  Avas  placed  at  her  disposal  bj 
M.  de  la  Plane,  Member  of  the  Inslitut  Royal  de  la  France.  This  valuabh 
record  is  very  voluminous,  and  throws  a  flood  of  light  on  every  transaction.  0: 
this  important  document  ani])le  use  has  been  judiciously  made  by  Miss  Pardoe 
and  her  narrative,  accordingly,  has  a  fulness  and  particularity  possessed  by  noiu 
other,  and  which  adds  to  the  dramatic  interest  of  the  subject.  The  work  is  verj 
elegantly  written,  and  will  be  read  willi  delight.  It  forms  another  moiunnent  t( 
the  worthiness  of  female  intellect  in  the  age  we  live  in." — Illustrated  News 


HISTORY    AND    BIOGRAPHY. 


MEMOIRS  OF  THE 

BARONESS    D'OBERKIRCH, 

ILLUSTRATIVE  OF  THE  SECRET  HISTORY  OF 

THE  COURTS  OF  FRANCE,  RUSSIA,  AND  GERMANY, 

■WEITTEW    BY    HERSELF, 

And  Edited  by  Her  Grandson,  the  Count  de  Montbrison. 

3  vols.  Post  8vo.    31s.  6d. 


The  Baroness  d'Oberkirch,  being  the  intimate  friend  of  the  Empress  of  Russia, 
wife  of  Paid  I.,  and  the  confidential  companion  of  the  Ducliess  of  Bourbon, 
her  facilities  for  obtaining  information  respecting  the  most  private  atfairs  of  the 
principal  Courts  of  Europe,  render  her  Memoirs  unrivalled  as  a  book  of  interest- 
ing anecdotes  of  the  royal,  noble,  and  other  celebrated  individuals  who  flourished 
on  the  continent  during  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century.  Among  the  royal  per- 
sonages introduced  to  the  reader  in  this  work,  are  Louis  XVI.,  Marie  Antoinette, 
Philip  Egalite,  and  all  the  Princes  of  France  then  living — Peter  the  Great,  the 
Empress  Catherine,  the  Emperor  Paul,  and  his  sons  Constantine  and  Alexander, 
of  Russia — Frederick  the  Great  and  Prince  Henry  of  Prussia — The  Emperor 
Joseph  II.  of  Austria — Gustavus  III.  of  Sweden — Princess  Christina  of  Saxony — 
Sobieski,  and  Czartoriski  of  Poland — and  the  Princes  of  Brunswick  and  Wurtem- 
berg.  Among  the  remarkable  persons  are  the  Princes  and  Princesses  de  Lamballe, 
de  Ligne  and  Galitzin — the  Dukes  and  Duchesses  de  Choiseul,  de  Mazarin,  de 
Boufflers,  de  la  Valliere,  de  Guiche,  de  Penthievre,  and  de  Polignac — Cardinal  de 
Rohan,  Marshals  Biron  and  d'Harcourt,  Count  de  Stareuiberg,  Baroness  de 
Krudener,  Madame  Geoflrin,  Talleyrand,  Mirabeau,  and  Necker — with  Count 
Cagliostro,  Mesnier,  Vestris,  and  Madame  Mara;  and  the  work  also  includes 
such  literary  celebrities  as  Voltaire,  Condorcet,  de  la  Harpe,  de  Beaumarchais, 
Rousseau,  Lavater,  Bernouilli,  Rayiial,  de  I'Epee,  Hnber,  Gothe,  Wieland,  Male- 
sherbes,  Marmoniel,  de  Stael  and  de  Genlis ;  with  some  singular  disclosures 
respecting  those  celebrated  Englishwomen,  Elizabeth  Chudleigh,  Duchess  of 
Kingston,  and  Lady  Craven,  Margravine  of  Anspach. 

"  The  Baroness  d'Oberkirch,  whose  remarkable  Memoirs  are  here  given  to  the  public,  saw 
inuch  of  courts  and  courtiers,  and  her  Memoirs  are  filled  with  a  variety  of  anecdotes,  not 
alone  of  lords  and  ladies,  but  of  emperors  and  empresses,  kings  and  queens,  and  reigning 
princes  and  princesses.  As  a  picture  of  society  anterior  to  the  French  Kevolution,  the  book 
is  the  latest  and  most  perfect  production  of  its  kind  extant ;  and  as  such,  besidts  its  minor 
value  as  a  book  of  amusement,  it  possesses  a  major  value  iis  a  work  of  information,  which,  in 
the  interest  of  historical  truth,  is,  without  exaggeration,  almost  incalculable." — Observer. 

"Thoroughly  genuine  and  unaffected,  these  Memoirs  display  the  whole  mind  of  a  woman 
who  was  well  worlh  knowing,  and  relate  a  large  part  of  her  experience  among  people  with 
whose  names  ana  characters  the  world  will  be  at  all  times  busy.  A  keen  observer,  and  by 
position  thrown  in  the  high  pl.-ices  of  the  world,  the  Baroness  d'Oberkirch  was  the  very 
woman  to  write  J/einoirs  that  would  interest  future  generations.  We  commend  these 
volumes  most  heartily  to  every  reader  They  are  a  perfect  magazine  of  pleasant  anecdotes 
and  interesting  characteristic  things.  We  lay  down  these  charming  volumes  with  regret, 
'ihey  will  entertain  the  most  fastidious  readers,  and  instruct  the  most  informed." — Examiner. 

"An  intensely  interesting  autobiography." — Morning  Chronicle. 

"  A  valuable  addition  to  the  personal  history  of  an  important  period.  The  volumes  deserve 
general  popularity" — Daily  Nfws. 

"  One  of  the  most  interesting  pieces  of  contemporary  history,  and  one  of  the  richest 
collections  of  remarkable  anecdotes  and  valuable  reminiscences  ever  produced." — John  Bull. 


6  HURST    AND    BLACKETT  S    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 

MEMOIRS  OF  JOHN  ABERNETIIY,  E.H.S., 

WITH  A  VIEW  OF  HIS  WRITINGS,  LECTURES,  AND  CHARACTER. 
BY  GEOKGE  MACTLWATN,  F.R.C.S., 
•     Author  of  "  Medicine  and  Surgery  One  Inductive  Science,"  &c. 
Second  Edition.     2  v.  post  8vo.,  -with  Portrait.   21s. 

"  A  memoir  of  high  professional  and  general  interest." — Morning-  Post. 

"  These  memoirs  convey  a  graphic,  and,  we  believe,  faithful  picture  of  thi 
celebrated  John  Abernethy.  The  volumes  are  written  in  a  popular  style,  and  wil 
afford  to  the  general  reader  much  instruction  and  entertainment." — Herald. 

"  This  is  a  book  which  ought  to  be  read  by  every  one.  The  professional  mai 
will  find  in  it  the  career  of  one  of  the  most  illustrious  professors  of  medicine  o 
our  own  or  of  any  other  age — the  student  of  intellectual  science  the  progress  of 
truly  profound  philosopher — and  all,  the  lesson  afforded  by  a  good  man's  life 
Abernethy's  memory  is  worthy  of  a  good  biographer,  and  happily  it  has  foum 
one.  Mr.  Macilwain  writes  well;  and  evidently,  in  giving  the  history  of  hi 
deceased  friend,  he  executes  a  labour  of  love.  The  arrangement  of  his  matter  i 
excellent :  so  happily  interwoven  with  narrative,  anecdotes,  often  comical  enougl 
and  deep  reflection,  as  to  carry  a  reader  forward  irresistibly." — Standard. 


THE  LITERATURE  AND  ROMANCI 

OF    NORTHERN    EUROPE: 

CONSTITUTING  A  COMPLETE  HISTORY  OF  THE  IITERATURE  OF  SWEDE> 
DENMARK,  NORWAY,  AND  ICELAND,  WITH  COPIOUS  SPECIMENS  OF  TH 
MOST  CELEBRATED  HISTORIES,  ROMANCES,  POPULAR  LEGENDS  AND  TALES 
OLD  CHIVALROUS  BALLADS,  TRAGIC  AND  COMIC  DRAMAS,  NATIONAL  SONGS 
NOVELS,    AND    SCENES    FROM    THE    LIFE    OF    THE    PRESENT    DAY. 

BY  "WILLIAM  AND  MARY  HCWITT.     2  vols.  21s. 

"  English  readers  have  long  been  indebted  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Howitt.  The 
have  now  increased  our  obligations  by  presenting  us  with  this  most  charming  an 
valuable  work,  by  means  of  which  the  great  majority  of  the  reading  public  wi 
be,  for  the  first  time,  made  acquainted  with  the  rich  stores  of  intellectual  wealt 
long  garnered  in  the  literature  and  beautiful  romance  of  Northern  Europe 
From  the  famous  Edda,  whose  origin  is  lost  in  antiquity,  dt)wn  to  the  novels  c 
Miss  Bremer  and  Baroness  Knorring,  the  prose  and  ])oetic  writings  of  Denmarl 
Norway,  Sweden,  and  Icelaiul  are  here  introduced  to  us  in  a  manner  at  one 
singularly  comprehensive  and  concise.  It  is  no  dry  enumeration  of  names,  bu 
the  very  marrow  and  spirit  of  the  various  works  displayed  before  us.  We  hav 
old  ballads  and  fairy  tales,  always  fascinating ;  we  have  scenes  from  plays,  an 
selections  from  the  poets,  with  most  attractive  biographies  of  great  men.  Th 
songs  and  ballads  are  translated  with  exquisite  ])oetic  beauty." — Sun. 

"  A  book  full  of  information — and  as  such,  a  welcome  addition  to  our  literatun 
The  translations — especially  of  some  of  the  ballads  and  other  poems — arc  exe 
cuted  with  spirit  and  taste." — AthenoEum. 


HISTORY    AND    BIOGRAPHY. 


MILITARY  LIFE   IN   ALGERIA. 

BY  THE  COUNT  P.  DE  CASTELLANE,    2  vols.  21s. 

"  We  commend  this  book  as  really  worth  perusal.  The  volumes  make  us 
familiarly  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  Algerian  experience.  Changamier, 
Cavaignac,  Canrohert,  Lamoriciere,  and  St.  Arnaud  are  brought  prominently 
before  the  reader." — Examiner. 

"  These  volumes  will  be  read  with  extraordinary  interest.  The  vivid  manner 
in  which  the  author  narrates  his  adventures,  and  the  number  of  personal  anecdotes 
that  he  fells,  engage  the  reader's  attention  in  an  extraordinary  manner.  The 
sketches  which  the  Count  gives  of  the  French  leaders  convey  to  us  a  very  accu- 
rate idea  of  some  of  the  most  remarkable  militaiy  celebrities  who  have  figured  in 
the  recent  political  events  in  France — Changarnier,  Bugeaud,  Lamoriciere, 
Cavaignac,  Canrobert,  Bosquet,  among  many  others.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
point  out  a  chapter  that  has  not  its  peculiar  charms." — Sunday  Times. 


AUTOBIOGRAPHY   OF 

AN    ENGLISH     SOLDIER 

IN  THE  UNITED  STATES'  ARMY.    2  vols.  21s. 

"  The  novelty  characterising  these  interesting  volumes  is  likely  to  secure  them 
many  readers.  In  the  first  place,  an  account  of  the  internal  organization,  the 
manners  and  customs  of  the  United  States'  Federal  Army,  is  iu  itself,  a  novelty, 
and  a  still  greater  novelty  is  to  have  this  account  rendered  by  a  man  who  had 
sen-ed  in  the  English  before  joining  the  American  army,  and  who  can  give  his 
report  after  having  every  opportunity  of  comparison.  The  author  went  through 
the  Mexican  campaign  with  General  Scott,  and  his  volumes  contain  much  descrip- 
tive matter  concerning  battles,  sieges,  and  marches  on  Mexican  territory,  besides 
their  sketches  of  the  normal  chronic  condition  of  a  United  States  soldier  in  time  of 
peace." — Daily  News. 


HISTORY    OF    THE 

BRITISH    COINQUESTS    IN    INDIA. 

B  Y  HORACE  ST.  JOHN".    2  vols.    21s. 
"  A  work  of  great  and  permanent  historical  value  and  interest." — Post. 
"  The  style  is  graphic  and  spirited.     The  facts  are  well  related  and  artistically 
grouped.     The  narrative  is  always  readable  and  interesting." — Athenceum. 


HISTORY    OF    CORFU; 

AND   OF   THE   REPUBLIC  OF   THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS. 

BY  LIEUT.  H.  J.  "W.  JERVIS,  Eoyal  Artillery. 
1  vol.,  with  Illustrations,  10s.  6d. 

"  Written   with   great   care  and    research,   and  including   probably  all   the 
particulars  of  any  moment  in  the  history  of  Corfu." — Athenmum. 


8  HURST    AND    BLACKETT  S    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 

THE  JOURNALS  AND  CORRESPONDENCE  OF 

GENERAL    SIR   IlAliliT    CALVE IIT, 

BART.,  G.C.B.  and  G.C.H., 

ADJUTANT-GENERAL  OF  THE  FORCES  UNDER  H.R.H.  THE  DUKE  OF  YORK. 

COMPRISING    THE    CAMPAIGNS    IN    FLANDERS    AND    HOLLAND    IN    1793-94; 

WITH  AN  APPENDIX  CONTAINING  HIS 

PLANS  FOR  THE  DEFENCE  OF  THE  COUNTRY  IN  CASE  OF  INVASION. 

EDITED     BY    HIS     SON,     SIR     HAKBY    VERNEY,     BART. 

1  vol.  roj'al  8vo.,  with  large  maps,  14s.  bound. 

"  Both  the  journals  and  letters  of  Capt.  Calvert  are  full  of  interest.  The 
letters,  in  particular,  are  entitled  to  much  praise.  Not  too  long,  easy,  graceful, 
not  without  wit,  and  everywhere  marked  by  good  sense  and  good  taste — the 
series  addressed  by  Capt.  Calvert  to  his  sister  are  literary  compositions  of  no 
common  order.  With  the  best  means  of  observing  the  progress  of  the  war,  and 
with  his  faculties  of  judgment  exercised  and  strengthened  by  experience — a  quick 
eye,  a  placid  temper,  and  a  natural  aptitude  for  language  rendered  Capt.  Calvert 
in  many  respects  a  model  of  a  military  critic.  Sir  Harry  Verney  has  performed 
his  duties  of  editor  very  well.  The  book  is  creditable  to  all  pai'ties  concerned  in 
its  production." — Athenauin. 


COLONEL  LANDMANN'S  ADVENTURES 

AND  RECOLLECTIONS.     2  vols.  21s. 

"Among  the  anecdotes  in  this  work  will  be  found  notices  of  King  George  III., 
the  Dukes  of  Kent,  Cumberland,  Cambridge,  Clarence,  and  Richmond,  the  Princess 
Augusta,  General  Garth,  Sir  Harry  Mildmay,  Lord  Charles  Somerset,  Lord  Edward 
Fitzgerald,  Lord  Heathfield,  Captain  Grose,  &c.  The  volumes  abound  in  inte- 
resting matter.      The  anecdotes  are  one  and  all  amusing." — Observer. 

"  These  '  Adventures  and  Recollections'  are  those  of  a  gentleman  whose  birth 
and  pi'ofession  gave  him  facilities  of  access  to  distinguished  society.  Colonel 
Landmann  writes  so  agreeably  that  we  have  little  doubt  that  his  volumes  will  be 
acceptable." — Athenasum. 

ADVENTURES  OF 

THE    CON  NAUGHT    RANGERS. 

SECOND    SEraES. 
BY   "WILIiIAM:    GRATTAlSr,   ESQ,., 

LATE     LIEUTENANT     CONNAUGHT     RANGERS.        2    VOlS.    21s. 

"  In  this  second  series  of  the  adventures  of  this  famous  regiment,  the  author 
extends  his  narrative  from  the  first  formation  of  the  gallant  88th  up  to  the 
occupation  of  Paris.  All  the  battles,  sieges,  and  skirmishes,  in  which  the  regi- 
ment took  part,  are  described.  The  volumes  are  interwoven  with  original  anec- 
dotes that  give  a  freshness  and  spirit  to  the  whole.  The  stories,  and  the  sketches 
of  society  and  manners,  with  the  anecdotes  of  the  celebrities  of  the  time,  are  told 
in  an  agreeable  and  unaffected  manner.  The  work  bears  all  the  characteristics 
of  a  soldier's  straightforward  and  entertaining  narrative." — Sunday  Times. 


HISTORY    AND    BIOGRAPHY. 


CLASSIC   AND    HISTORIC   PORTRAITS. 

BY"  JAMES  BEUCE.    2  vols.    21s. 

This  work  comprises  Biographies  of  the  following  Classic  and  Historic  Per- 
sonages : — Sappho,  /Esop,  Pythagoras,  Aspasia,  MiUo,  Agesilatis,  Socrates,  Plato, 
Alcil)iades,  Helen  of  Troy,  Alexander  the  Great,  Demetrius  Poliorcetes,  Scipio 
Africanus,  Sylla,  Cleopatra,  Jnlius  Caesar,  Augustus,  Tiberius,  Gemianicus, 
Ca!iu:ula,  Lollia  Paulina,  Caesonia,  Boadicca,  Agripi)ina,  Poppaea,  Otho,  Coin- 
niodus,  Caracalla,  Heliogabalns,  Zeiiol)ia,  Julian  the  Apostate,  Eudocia,  Theodora, 
ChaHemagne,  Abelard  and  Ileloise,  Elizabeth  of  Hungary,  Dante,  Robert  Bruce, 
Igiiez  de  Castro,  Agnes  Sorel,  Jane  Snore,  Lucrezia  Borgia,  Anne  Bulleii,  Diana 
of  Poitiers,  Catherine  de  Medicis,  Queen  Eli7,abeth,  Mary  Queen  of  Scots, 
Cervantes,  Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  John  Sobieski,  Anne  of  Austria,  Ninon  de 
I'Enclos,  Mile,  de  Montpensier,  the  Duchess  of  Orleans,  Madame  de  Maiutenon, 
Catliarine  of  Russia,  and  Madame  de  Stael. 

"A  Book  which  has  many  merits,  most  of  all,  that  of  a  fresh  and  unhacknied 
subject.  The  volumes  are  tlie  result  of  a  good  deal  of  reading,  and  have  besides 
an  original  spirit  and  flavour  about  tlieni,  which  have  pleased  us  much.  Mr. 
Bruce  is  often  eloquent,  often  humorous,  and  has  a  proper  appreciation  of  the 
wit  and  sarcasm  belonging  in  abundance  to  his  theme.  The  variety  and  amount 
of  inforujation  scattered  through  his  volumes  entitle  them  to  be  generally  read, 
and  to  be  received  on  all  hands  with  merited  favour." — Examiner. 

"  We  find  in  these  piquant  volumes  the  liberal  outpourings  of  a  ripe  scholarship, 
the  results  of  wide  and  various  reading,  given  in  a  style  and  manner  at  once  plea- 
sant, gossippy  and  picturesque." — Athcnceum. 

"  A  series  of  biographical  sketches,  remarkable  for  their  truth  and  fidelity.  The 
work  is  one  which  will  please  the  classical  scholar  and  the  student  of  history, 
while  it  also  contains  entertaining  and  instructive  matter  for  the  general  reader." 
— Literary  Gazette. 


RULE   AND    MISRULE    OF 

THE     ENGLISH     IN    AMERICA. 

BY  THE  AUTHOR  OF  "  SAM  SLICK,"  &c,     2  vols.  21s. 

"  We  conceive  this  work  to  be  by  far  the  most  valuable  and  important  Judge 
Haliburton  has  ever  written.  While  teeming  with  interest,  moral  and  historical, 
to  the  general  reader,  it  equally  constitutes  a  philosophical  study  for  the  politician 
and  statesman.  It  will  be  found  to  let  in  a  flood  of  light  upon  the  actual  origin, 
formation,  and  progress  of  the  republic  of  the  United  States." — N.  and  M.  Gaz. 

"  We  believed  the  author  of  this  work  to  possess  a  power  of  humour  and 
sarcasm  second  only  to  that  of  Rabelais  and  Sidney  Snsith,  and  a  genuine  pathos 
worthy  of  Henry  Fielding  or  Charles  Dickens.  In  the  volumes  before  us  he 
breaks  upon  new,  and  untrodden  ground.  We  hail  this  book  with  pleasure ; 
we  consider  it  an  honour  to  Judge  Haliburton.  He  places  before  us,  fairly  and 
impartially,  the  history  of  English  ru'e  in  America.  The  book  is  not  only  a  boon 
to  the  historic  student,  it  is  also  filled  with  reflections  such  as  may  well  engage 
the  attention  of  the  legislating  statesman.  Mr.  Haliburton  also  shows  us  the 
true  position  of  the  Canadas,  explains  the  evils  of  our  colonial  system,  and  points 
out  tlie  remedies  by  which  these  evils  may  be  counteracted." — Irish  Quarterly 
Review. 


10         HURST    AND    BLACKETT's    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 


THE    M  A  11  V  ELS    OF    SCIENCE,^' 

AND  THEIR  TESTIMONY  TO  HOLY  WRIT ; 

A  POPULAR  MANUAL  OF  THE  SCIENCES. 

B  Y     S.     ^W.     P  TJ  L  L  O  M,     E  S  Q. 

DEDICATED    BY    PERMISSION    TO    THE    KING    OF    HANOVER. 

Sixth  Edition,  with  Numerous  Illustrations.     Post  8vo.     7s.  6d. 


"  This  work  treats  of  the  whole  origin  of  nature  in  an  intelligent  style ;  it  puts 
into  the  hands  of  every  man  the  means  of  information  on  facts  the  most  sublime, 
and  converts  into  interesting  and  eloquent  description  problems  which  once 
perplexed  the  whole  genius  of  mankind.  We  congratulate  the  author  on  his 
research,  his  information,  and  his  graceful  and  happy  language." — Britannia. 

"  The  skill  displayed  in  the  treatment  of  the  sciences  is  not  the  least  marvel  in 
the  volume.  The  reasonings  of  the  author  are  forcible,  fluently  expressed,  and 
calculated  to  make  a  deep  impression.  Genuine  service  has  been  done  to  the 
cause  of  Revelation  by  the  issue  of  such  a  book,  which  is  more  than  a  mere 
literary  triumph.     It  is  a  good  action." — Globe. 

"  Its  tone  is  grave,  grand,  and  argumentative,  and  rises  to  the  majesty  of  poetry. 
As  a  commentary  upon  the  stupendous  facts  which  exist  in  the  universe,  it  is 
truly  a  work  which  merits  our  admiration,  and  we  unhesitatingly  refer  our  readers 
to  its  fascinating  pages." — Dispatch. 

"  Without  parading  the  elaborate  nature  of  his  personal  investigations,  the 
author  has  laid  hold  of  the  discoveries  in  every  department  of  natural  science  in 
a  manner  to  be  apprehended  by  the  meanest  understanding,  but  which  will  at  the 
same  time  command  the  attention  of  the  scholar." — Messenger. 

"  A  grand  tour  of  the  sciences.  Mr.  Fnllom  starts  from  the  Sun,  runs  round 
by  the  Planets,  noticing  Comets  as  he  goes,  and  puts  up  for  a  rest  at  the  Central 
Sun.  He  gets  into  the  Milky  Way,  which  brings  him  to  the  Fixed  Stars  and 
Nebulje.  He  munches  the  crust  of  the  Earth,  and  looks  over  Fossil  Animals  and 
Plants.  This  is  followed  by  a  disquisition  on  the  science  of  the  Scriptures.  He 
then'  comes  back  to  the  origin  of  the  Earth,  visits  the  Magnetic  Poles,  gets 
among  Thunder  and  Lightning,  makes  the  acquaintance  of  Magnetism  and  Elec- 
tricity, dips  into  Rivers,  draws  science  from  Springs,  goes  into  Volcanoes,  through 
which  he  is  drawn  into  a  knot  of  Earthquakes,  comes  to  the  surface  with  Gaseous 
Emanations,  and  sliding  down  a  Landsli]),  renews  his  journey  on  a  ray  of  Light, 
goes  through  a  Prism,  sees  a  Mirage,  meets  with  the  Flying  Dutchman,  observes 
an  Optical  Illusion,  steps  over  the  Rainbow,  enjoys  a  dance  with  the  Northern 
Aurora,  takes  a  little  Polarized  Light,  boils  some  Water,  sets  a  Steam-Engine  in 
motion,  witnesses  the  expansion  of  Metals,  looks  at  the  Thermometer,  and 
refreshes  himself  with  Ice.  Soon  he  is  at  Sea,  examining  tlie  Tides,  tumbling 
on  the  Waves,  swimming,  diving,  and  ascertaining  the  pressure  of  Fluids.  We 
meet  him  next  in  the  Air,  running  through  all  its  properties.  Having  remarked 
on  the  propagation  of  Sounds,  he  j)anses  for  a  bit  of  Music,  and  goes  olf  into  the 
Vegetable  Kingdom,  then  travels  through  the  Animal  Kingdom,  and  having 
visited  the  various  races  of  the  human  family,  winds  up  with  a  demonstration  of 
the  Anatomy  of  Man." — Examiner. 


VOYAGES    AND    TRAVELS.  11 


NAKRATIVE    OF    A 

JOURNEY    ROUND    THE    WORLD. 

COMPRISING 

A  WINTER  PASSAGE   ACROSS   THE   ANDES   TO   CHILI, 

WITH    A    VISIT   TO    THE    GOLD    REGIONS    OF    CALIFORNIA    AND    AUSTRALIA, 
THE  SOUTH  SEA  ISLANDS,  JAVA,  &C. 

BY     F,     GEBSTAECKEK. 
3  vols,  post  8vo.     31s.  6d. 

"  Starting  from  Bremen  for  California,  the  author  of  this  Narrative  proceeded 
to  Rio,  and  thence  to  Buenos  Ayres,  where  he  exchanged  the  wild  seas  for  the 
yet  wikler  Pampas,  and  made  his  way  on  horseback  to  Valparaiso  across  the 
Cordilleras — a  winter  passage  full  of  difficulty  and  danger.  From  Valparaiso 
he  sailed  to  Califoinia,  and  visited  San  Francisco,  Sacramento,  and  the  mining 
districts  generally.  Thence  he  steered  his  course  to  the  South  Sea  Islands, 
resting  at  Honolulu,  Tahiti,  and  other  gems  of  the  sea  in  that  quarter,  and  from 
thence  to  Sydney,  marching  through  the  Murray  Valley,  and  inspecting  the 
Adelaide  district.  From  Australia  he  dashed  onward  to  Java,  riding  through  the 
interior,  and  taking  a  general  survey  of  Batavia,  with  a  glance  at  Japan  and  the 
Japanese.  An  active,  intelligent,  observant  man,  the  notes  he  made  of  his  adven- 
tures are  full  of  variety  and  interest.  His  descriptions  of  places  and  persons  are 
lively,  and  his  remarks  on  natural  productions  and  the  phenomena  of  earth,  sea, 
and  sky  are  always  sensible,  and  made  with  a  view  to  practical  results.  Those 
portions  of  the  Narrative  which  refer  to  California  and  Australia  are  replete  with 
vivid  skftches ;  and  indeed  the  whole  work  abounds  with  living  and  picturesque 
descriptions  of  men,  manners,  and  localities." — Globe. 

"  The  author  of  this  comprehensive  narrative  embarked  at  Bremen  for  Cali- 
fornia, and  then  took  ship  to  the  South  Sea  Islands,  of  which  and  of  their  inhabit- 
ants we  have  some  pleasant  sketches.  From  the  South  Sea  Islands  he  sailed  to 
Australia,  where  he  effected  a  very  daring  and  adventurous  journey  by  himself 
through  the  Murray  Valley  to  Adelaide.  He  then  proceeded  to  Java,  the  interior 
of  which  he  explored  to  a  considerable  distance.  Before  he  departed  for  Europe, 
he  remained  some  time  at  Batavia,  and  was  so  fortunate  as  to  witness  the  arrival 
of  the  Japanese  vessel  bringing  her  annual  cargo  of  goods  from  Japan.  Inde- 
pendently of  great  variety — for  these  pages  are  never  monotonous  or  dull — a 
pleasant  freshness  pervades  Mr.  Gerstaecker's  chequered  narrative.  It  offers  much 
to  interest,  and  conveys  much  valuable  information,  set  forth  in  a  very  lucid  and 
graphic  manner." — Athenceum. 

"  These  travels  consisted  principally  in  a  '  winter  passage  across  the  Andes  to 
Chili,  with  a  visit  to  the  gold  regions  of  California  and  Australia,  the  South  Sea 
Islands,  Java,  <S:c.'  In  the  present  state  of  things  and  position  of  affairs,  no  more 
desirable  book  can  be  imagined.  It  carries  us  at  once  to  the  centre  of  attractions 
— it  conveys  us  to  the  land  of  promise  to  expectant  thousands.  We  behold,  face 
to  face,  the  mighty  regions  where  so  many  of  our  countrymen  have  gone,  that 
it  seems  almost  a  second  home.  We  are  informed,  in  minute  details  of  the  life 
that  is  led  thi-re.  There  is  no  false  glitter  thrown  over  the  accoimts  ;  the  author 
evidently  strives  to  raise  no  false  hopes,  and  excite  no  unreasonable  expectations. 
The  accounts  given  of  California  are  particularly  explicit.  The  description  of 
Sydney  during  the  excitement  prevailing  on  the  discovery  of  new  mines  is  very 
interesting. ' ' — Sun. 


12  HURST    AND    BLACKETT's    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 


AUSTRALIA     AS     IT     IS: 

ITS  SETTLEMENTS,  FAMIS,  AND  GOLD  nELDS. 
BY    F,    LANCELOTT,    ESQ. 

MINERALOGICAL  SURVEYOR  IN  THE  AUSTRALIAN  COLONIES. 

Second  Edition,  Revised.     2  vols,  post  8vo.   2Is. 

"This  is  an  unadorned  account  of  the  actual  condition  in  which  these  colonies 
are  found  by  a  professional  surveyor  and  mineralogist,  who  goes  over  the  ground 
with  a  careful  glance  and  a  remarkable  aptitude  for  seizing  on  the  practical  por- 
tions of  the  subject.  On  the  climate,  the  vegetation,  and  the  agricultural 
resources  of  the  country,  he  is  copious  in  the  extreme,  and  to  the  intending 
emigrant  an  invaluable  instructor.  As  may  be  expected  from  a  scientitic  hand, 
the  subject  of  gold  digging  undergoes  a  thorough  manipulation.  Mr.  Lancelott 
dwells  with  minuteness  on  the  several  indications,  stratifications,  varieties  of  soil, 
and  methods  of  working,  experience  has  pointed  out,  and  olfers  a  perfect  manual 
of  the  new  craft  to  the  adventurous  settler.  Nor  has  he  neglected  to  provide 
him  with  information  as  to  the  sea  voyage  and  all  its  accessories,  the  commochties 
most  in  request  at  the  antipodes,  and  a  general  view  of  social  wants,  family 
management,  &c.,  such  as  a  shrewd  and  observant  counsellor,  aided  by  old 
resident  authorities,  can  afford.  As  a  guide  to  the  auriferous  regions,  as  well  as 
the  pastoral  solitudes  of  Australia,  the  work  is  unsurpassed." — Globe. 

"This  is  the  best  book  on  the  new  El  Dorado;  the  best,  not  only  in  respect  to 
matter,  style,  and  arrangement,  in  all  of  which  merits  it  excels,  but  eminently 
the  best  because  the  latest,  and  the  work  of  a  man  professionally  conversant  with 
those  circumstances  which  are  charming  hundreds  of  thousands  annually  to  the 
great  Southern  Continent.  The  last  twenty  years  have  been  prolific  of  works 
upon  Australia,  but  they  are  all  now  obsolete.  Every  one  who  takes  an  interest 
in  Australia  would  do  well  to  possess  himself  of  Mr.  Lancelott's  work,  which 
tells  evervtbing  of  the  social  state,  of  the  physiology,  and  the  precious  mineralogy 
of  the  gold  country." — Standard. 

"  We  advise  all  about  to  emigrate  to  take  this  hook  as  a  counsellor  and  com- 
panion."— Lloyd's  Weekly  Paper. 


A  LADY'S  VISIT  TO  THE  GOLD  DIGGINGS 

OF   AUSTRALIA    IN    185.2-3. 

BY    MRS.    CHARLES    CLACY.     1  voL     10s.  6d. 

"  The  most  pithy  and  entertaining  of  all  the  books  that  have  been  written  on 
the  gold  diggings." — Literary  Gazette. 

"  Mrs.  Clacy's  book  will  be  read  with  considerable  interest,  and  not  without 
profit.  Her  statements  and  advice  will  be  most  useful  among  her  own  sex." — 
^then/Ptciii. 

"  Mrs.  Clacy  tells  her  story  well.     Her  book  is  the  most  graphic  account  of  the 
diggings  aiul  the  gold  country  in  general  that  is  to  be  had." — JJnili/  A^ews. 
"  One  of  the  best  guides  to  Australian  emigrants  yet  issued." — Messenger. 
"  We  recommend  this  work  as  the  emigrant's  vade  mecum." — Home  Companion. 


VOYAGES   AND    TRAVELS.  13 

A    TOUR    OF    INQUIRY 

THROUGH  FRANCE  AND  ITALY, 

ILLUSTEATING  THEIR  PRESENT 

SOCIAL,    POLITICAL,    AND    RELIGIOUS   CONDITION. 

BY    EDMUND     SPENCER,    ESQ., 

Author  of  "Travels  in  European  Turkey,"  "  Circassia,"  &c.     2  vols.  21s. 


"  Mr.  Spencer  is  favourably  known  to  the  public  as  the  author  of  several  works 
describing  the  land  of  the  Osraanli,  the  Greek,  the  Albanian,  and  tlie  Slavonian  ; 
and  in  the  two  volumes  before  us  he  has  given  the  results  of  a  Tour  of  Inquiry 
through  France  and  Italy,  which,  coiriinenchig  at  Boulogne,  includes  visits  to 
Paris,  to  the  important  towns  in  the  centie  and  south  of  France,  to  Leghorn, 
Rome,  and  Piedmont.  As  a  careful  observer  of  the  actual  condition  of  the  people 
in  both  countries,  the  results  of  his  inquiries  cannot  fail  to  be  read  with  much 
interest  and  instruction.  Mr.  Spencer  has  made  liiinself  thoroughly  conversant 
with  the  present  social,  political,  and  religious  condition  of  the  people  of  France 
and  Italy,  describing  at  one  time  that  curious  class  the  vagrants  of  Paris;  next  the 
modern  miracles  by  which  the  parti  pretre  in  France  are  endeavouring  to  stimulate 
the  superstitious  feelings  of  the  peasantry;  and  then  the  hostility  of  the  Papal 
Church  to  intellectual  progress,  the  political  condition  of  Turin,  the  insurrection 
at  Rome,  &c. — topics  which  at  the  present  moment  excite  the  deepest  interest  in 
this  country.  It  must  not  be  supposed  that  Mr.  Spencer's  work  is  made  up  of 
mere  dry  political  or  religious  disquisitions,  however  valuable  they  may  be  in 
themselves.  He  describes  all  that  he  saw  with  a  facile  and  graceful  pen,  and  the 
tone  of  his  narrative  is  altogether  so  animated  and  cheerful  that  we  defy  the 
reader  who  takes  the  work  in  his  hand  for  mere  amusement  to  put  it  down 
unsatisfied.  ^Ve  have  now  said  enough  to  recommend  Mr.  Spencer's  valuable 
and  interesting  work,  which  we  have  no  doubt  will  command  an  extended 
popularity." — Morning  Post. 

"  Mr.  Spencer  has  travelled  through  France  and  Italy,  with  the  eyes  and  feelings 
of  a  Protestaut  iihilosopher.  His  volumes  contain  much  valuable  matter,  ninny 
judicious  remarks,  and  a  great  deal  of  useful  information." — Morning  Chronicle. 


A    SKETCHER'S    TOUR 

ROUND    THE    WORLD. 

BY     ROBERT     ELTVES,     ESQ. 

1  vol.  royal  8vo.,  with  21  Coloured  Illustrations  from  Original  Designs  by  the 
Author.     21s.  elegantly  bound. 


FOREST    LIFE    IN    CEYLON. 

BY   W.   KNIGHTON,    M.A.    2  vols.  21s. 


14         HURST    AND    BLACKETT's    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 


TRAVELS    IN   EUROPEAN   TURKEY: 

THROUGH  BOSNIA,  SERVIA,  BUI  GARIA,   MACEDONIA,    ROUMELIA,  ALBANIA,   AND 
EPIRUS  ;    WITH  A  VISIT  TO  GREECE  AND  THE  IONIAN   ISLES,    AND  A  HOME- 
WARD TOUR  THROUGH    HUNGARY    AND   THE  '  SCLAVONIAN    PROVINCES 
OF  AUSTRIA  ON  THE  LOWER  DANUBE. 

BY     EDMUND     SPENCER,    ESQ., 
Author  of  "  Travels  in  Circassia,"  &c. 

Second  and  Clieaper  Edition,  in  2  vols.  8vo.  with  Ilhistrations,  and  a  valuahle 

Map  of  European  Turkey,  from  the  most  recent  Charts  in  the  possession  of 

the  Austrian  and  Turkish  Governments,  revised  by  the  Author,  18s. 

"  These  important  volumes  appear  at  an  opportune  moment,  as  they  describe 
some  of  those  countries  to  which  public  attention  is  now  more  particularly 
directed :  Turkey,  Greece,  Hungary,  and  Austria.  The  author  has  given  us  a 
most  interesting  picture  of  the  Turkish  Empire,  its  weaknesses,  and  the  em- 
barrassments from  which  it  is  now  suffering,  its  financial  difhculties,  the  discon- 
tent of  its  Christian,  and  the  turbulence  of  a  great  portion  of  its  Mohammedan 
subjects.  We  are  also  introduced  for  the  first  time  to  the  warlike  mountaineers 
of  Bosnia,  Albania,  Upper  Moesia,  and  the  almost  inaccessible  districts  of  the 
Pindus  and  the  Balkan.  The  different  nationalities  of  that  Babel-like  country, 
Turkey  in  Europe,  inhabited  by  Sclavonians,  Greeks,  Albanians,  Macedonians, 
the  Romani  and  Osmanli — their  various  characteristics,  religions,  superstitions, 
together  with  their  singular  customs  and  manners,  their  ancient  and  contem- 
porary history  are  vividly  described.  Tlie  Ionian  Islands,  Greece,  Hungary,  and 
the  Sclavonian  Provinces  of  Austria  on  the  Lower  Danube,  are  all  delineated  in 
the  author's  happiest  manner.  We  cordially  recommend  Mr.  Spencer's  valuable 
and  interesting  volumes  to  the  attention  of  the  reader." — U.  S.  Magazine. 

"  This  interesting  work  contains  by  far  the  most  complete,  the  most  en- 
lightened, and  the  most  reliable  amount  of  what  has  lieen  hitherto  almost  the 
terra  incognita  of  European  Turkey,  and  supplies  the  reader  with  abundance  of 
entertainment  as  well  as  instruction." — John  Bull. 


ARCTIC    MISCELLANIES, 

A  SOUVENIR  OF  THE  LATE  POLAR  SEARCH. 
BY  THE   OPFICEBS    AND    SEAMEN  OF    THE   EXPEDITION. 

DEDICATED  BY  PERMISSION  TO  THE  LORDS  OF  THE  ADMIRALTY. 

Second  Edition.      1    vol.    with    numerous    Illustrations,     10s.    6d. 

From  the  "  Times." — This  volume  is  not  the  least  interesting  or  instructive 
among  the  records  of  the  late  expedition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  com- 
manded by  Captain  Austin.  The  most  valuable  portions  of  the  book  are  those 
which  relate  to  the  scientific  and  practical  observations  made  in  the  course  of  the 
expedition,  and  the  descriiitions  of  scenery  and  incidents  of  arctic  travel.  From 
the  variety  of  the  materials,  and  the  novelty  of  the  scenes  and  incidents  to  which 
they  refer,  no 'less  than  the  interest  which  attaches  to  all  that  relates  to  the 
probable  safety  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions,  the  Arctic  Miscellanies 
forms  a  very  readable  book,  and  one  that  redounds  to  the  honour  of  the  national 
character. 


VOYAGES  AND  TRAVELS.  15 

THE  ANSYEEEH  AND  ISMAELEEH: 

A  VISIT  TO  THE  SECRET  SECTS  OF  NORTHERN  SYRIA, 

WITH   A   VIEW   TO    THE    ESTABLISHMENT    OF   SCHOOLS. 

BY  THE  REV.  S.  LYDE,  M.A., 

Late  Chaplain  at  Beyhout.     1  vol.  10s.  Gd. 

"  Mr.  Lj'de's  pages  furnish  a  very  good  illustration  of  the  present  state  of  some 
of  the  least  known  |)arts  of  Syria.  Mr.  Lyde  visited  the  most  important  districts 
of  the  Ansyreeh,  lived  with  them,  and  conversed  with  their  sheiks  or  chief  men. 
The  practical  aim  of  the  author  gives  his  volumes  an  interest  which  works  of 
greater  pretension  want." — AthentBum. 

"  By  far  the  hest  account  of  the  country  and  the  people  that  has  been  presented 
by  any  traveller." — Critic. 


TRAVELS  IN  INDIA  AND  KASHMIR. 

BY  BARON"   SCHOTyTBERG.     2  vols,  21s. 

"This  account  of  a  Journey  through  India  and  Kashmir  will  be  read  with 
considerable  interest.  Whatever  came  in  his  way  worthy  of  record  the  author 
committed  to  writing,  and  the  result  is  an  entertaining  and  instructive  miscellany 
of  information  on  the  country,  its  climate,  its  natural  productions,  its  history  and 
antiquities,  and  the  character,  the  religion,  and  the  social  condition  of  its  inhabi- 
tants. The  remarks  on  these  various  topics  possess  additional  interest  as  the 
author  views  India  and  our  rule  over  that  country  with  the  eye  of  an  impartial 
observer." — John  Bull. 


KHARTOUM   AND   THE   NILES. 

BY    G-EORGE     MELLY,    ESQ,. 
Second  Edition.     2  v.  post  8vo.,  with  Map  and  Illustrations,  21s. 

"  Mr.  Melly  is  of  the  same  school  of  travel  as  the  author  of  '  Eothen.'  His 
book  altogether  is  very  agreeable,  comprising,  besides  the  description  ot  Khartoum, 
many  intelligent  illustrations  of  the  relations  now  subsisting  between  the  Govern- 
ments of  the  Sultan  and  the  Pacha,  and  exceedingly  graphic  sketches  of  Cairo, 
the  PyTaraids,  the  Plain  of  Thebes,  the  Cataracts,  &c." — Examiner. 


ATLANTIC  &  TRANSATLANTIC  SKETCHES. 

BY    CAPTAIN    MACKINNON,    R.N,     2  vols.  21s. 

<'  Captain  Mackinnon's  sketches  of  America  are  of  a  striking  character  and 
permanent  value.  His  volumes  convey  a  just  impression  of  the  United  States,  a 
fair  and  candid  view  of  their  society  and  institutions,  so  well  written  and  so 
entertaining  that  the  effect  of  their  perusal  on  the  public  here  must  be  con- 
siderable. They  are  light,  animated,  and  lively,  full  of  racy  sketches,  pictures  of 
life,  anecdotes  of  society,  visits  to  remarkable  men  and  famous  places,  sporting 
episodes,  &c.,  very  original  and  interesting." — Sunday  Times. 


16  HURST    AND    BLACKETT's    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 


IIEVELATIONS    OF    SIBERIA. 

BY    A    BANISHED    LADY. 
Third    Edition.       2    vols,    post    8vo.    21s. 

"  A  thoroughly  good  book.  It  cannot  be  read  by  too  many  people." — Dickens's 
Household  Words. 

"  The  authoress  of  these  volumes  was  a  lady  of  quality,  who,  having  incurred 
the  displeasure  of  the  Russian  Government  for  a  political  offence,  was  exiled  to 
Siljeria.  The  place  of  her  exile  was  Berezov,  the  most  northern  part  of  this 
northern  penal  settlement ;  and  in  it  she  spent  about  two  years,  not  unprofitably, 
as  the  reader  will  find  by  her  interesting  work,  containing  a  lively  and  graphic 
picture  of  the  country,  the  people,  their  nuinners  and  customs,  &c.  The  book 
gives  a  most  important  and  valuable  ins.ight  into  the  economy  of  what  has  been 
hitherto  the  terra  incognita  of  Russian  despo'isui." — Daily  Neivs. 

"  Since  the  publication  of  the  famous  romance  the  '  Exiles  of  Siberia,'  of 
Madame  Cottiu,  we  have  had  no  account  of  th?se  desolate  lands  more  attractive 
than  the  present  work,  from  the  pen  of  the  Lady  Eve  Felinska,  which,  in  its  un- 
pretending style  and  truthful  simplicity,  will  win  its  way  to  the  reader's  heart, 
and  compel  him  to  sympathise  with  the  fair  sufferer.  The  series  of  hardships 
endured  in  traversing  these  fro/en  solitudes  is  affectingly  told ;  and  once  settled 
down  at  one  of  the  most  northern  points  of  the  convict  territory,  Berezov,  six 
hundred  miles  beyond  Tobolsk,  the  Author  exhibits  an  observant  eye  for  the 
natural  phenomena  of  those  latitudes,  as  well  as  the  habits  of  the  semi-barbarous 
aborigines  This  portion  of  the  book  will  be  found  by  the  naturalist  as  well  as 
ethnologist  full  of  valuable  information." — Gluhe. 

"These  'Revelations'  give  us  a  novel  and  interesting  sketch  of  Siberian  life — the 
habits,  morals,  manners,  religious  tenets,  rites,  and  festivals  of  the  iniiabitants.  The 
writer's  extraordinary  powers  of  observation,  and  tlie  graceful  facility  with  which 
she  describes  everything  worthy  of  remark,  reiuler  her  '  Revelations'  as  attractive 
and  fascinating  as  they  are  original  and  instructive." — Britannia. 


I 


EIGHT    YEARS 
IN  PALESTINE,  SYRIA,  AND  ASIA  MINOR. 

BY    F.    A,    INT  E  A  L  E,    ESQ,-, 

LATE  ATTACHED  TO  THE  CONSULAR  SERVICE  IN  SYRIA. 

Second  Edition,  2  vols.,  with  Illustrations,  21s. 

"  A  very  agreeable  book.  Mr.  Neale  is  evidently  quite  familiar  with  the 
East,  and  writ»-s  in  a  lively,  shrewd,  and  good-humoured  manner.  A  great 
deal  of  information  is  to  be  found  in  his  pages." — Alhenwum. 

"  We  have  derived  unminglcd  ])leasure  from  the  perusal  of  these  interesting 
volumes.  Very  rarely  have  we  found  a  narrative  of  Eastern  travel  so  truthful  and 
just.  There  is  no  guide-l)ook  we  would  so  strongly  recommend  to  the  traveller 
about  to  enter  on  a  Turkish  or  Syrian  tour  as  tJiis  before  us.  The  narrative  is 
full  of  incident,  and  abounds  in  vivid  pictures  of  Tiu-kish  and  Levantine  life,  in- 
terspersed with  well-told  tales.  The  author  commences  his  narrative  at  Gaza; 
visits  Askalon,  Jaffa  and  Jerusalem,  Caipha  and  Mount  Carmel,  Acre,  Sidon  and 
Tyre,  Be>rout,  Tripoli,  Antioch,  Aleppo,  Alexandretta,  Adana,  and  Cyprus.  Of 
several  of  these  famous  localities  we  know  no  more  compact  and  clearer  account 
than  that  given  in  these  volumes.  We  have  to  thank  Mr.  Neale  for  one  of  the  best 
books  of  travels  that  we  have  met  with  for  a  very  long  time." — Literary  Gazette. 


VOYAGES    AND    TRAVELS.  17 

EIGHTEEN    YEARS    ON    THE 

GOLD    C  0  A  S  T    0  r    A  F  II I  C  A ; 

INCLUDING  AN    ACCOUNT   OF   THE    NATIVE   TRIBES,   AND   THEIR 

INTERCOURSE  WITH  EUROPEANS. 

BY     BRODIE     CBUICKSH  AWK, 

MEMBER    OF    THE    LEGISLATIVE    COUNCIL,    CAPE    COAST    CASTLE.     2  VOls.  21s. 

"  This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  works  that  ever  yet  came  into  our  hands. 
It  possesses  the  charin  of  introducing  us  to  habits  and  manners  of  the  human 
family  of  which  before  we  had  no  conception.  Before  reading  Mr.  Cruickshank's 
vohnnes  we  were  wholly  unaware  of  the  ignorance  of  all  Europeans,  as  to  the 
social  state  of  the  inhabitants  of  Western  Africa.  Mrs.  Beccher  Stowe's  work 
has,  indeed,  made  us  all  familiar  with  the  degree  of  intelligence  and  the  disposi- 
tions of  the  transplanted  African  ;  but  it  has  been  reserved  to  Mr.  Cruickshank 
to  exhibit  the  children  of  Ham  in  their  original  state,  and  to  prove,  as  his  work 
proves  to  demonstration,  that,  by  the  extension  of  a  knowledge  of  the  Gospel,  and 
by  that  only,  can  the  African  be  brought  within  the  pale  of  civilization.  We 
anxiously  desire  to  direct  public  attention  to  a  work  so  valuable.  An  incidental 
episode  in  the  work  is  an  affecting  narrative  of  the  death  of  the  gifted  Letitia 
Elizabeth  Landon  (L.E.L.),  written  a  few  months  after  her  marriage  with 
Governor  Maclean.  It  relieves  the  memory  of  both  husband  and  wife  from  all 
the  vile  scandals  that  have  been  too  long  permitted  to  defile  their  story." — 
Standard. 

"  This  work  will  be  read  with  deep  interest,  and  will  give  a  fresh  impulse  to 
the  exertions  of  philanthropy  and  religion." — John  Bull. 


LIEE    IN    SWEDEN, 

WITH    EXCURSIONS    IN    NORWAY 
AND    DENMARK. 

B"2"  SELIINTA  BUNBURY.    2  vols.  21s. 

"  The  author  of  this  clever  work  never  misses  alively  sketch.  Her  descriptions 
of  life  in  Sweden  and  Norway  ai-e  all  piquant,  and  most  of  them  instructive, 
illustrating  northern  life  in  all  its  pha.^es,  from  the  palace  to  the  cottage.  The 
work  is  well  calculated  to  excite  in  the  English  public  a  desire  to  visit  scenes 
which  have  as  yet  been  exposed  to  the  view  of  few  travellers." — Daily  News. 

"  Two  delightful,  well-informed  volumes,  by  a  lady  of  much  acuteness,  lively 
imagination,  and  shrewd  observance.  The  whole  work  is  full  of  delightful 
remembrances  tonched  otf  with  the  skill  of  an  accomplished  artist  in  pen  and  ink, 
and  it  can  be  safely  recommended  to  the  reader,  as  the  freshest,  and  most 
certainly  the  trufhfuUest  publication  upon  the  North  that  has  of  late  years  been 
given  to  the  world." — Observer. 

"  There  is  an  inexpressible  charm  in  Miss  Bunbury's  narrative.  Nothing 
escaped  her  watchful  attention  and  her  descriptions  have  a  piquancy  and  liveliness 
which  greatly  enhance  their  interest." — Britannia. 


18  HURST   AND   BLACKETT's    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 

NARRATIVE   OF   A 

FIVE  YEARS'  KESIDENCE  AT  NEPAUL. 

BY    CAPTAIN    THOMAS    SMITH, 

Late  Assistant  Political-Resident  at  Nepaul.     2  v.  post  8vo.  21s. 

"  No  man  could  be  better  qualified  to  describe  Nepaul  than  Captain  Smith ; 
and  his  concise,  but  clear  and  graphic  account  of  its  history,  its  natural  produc- 
tions, its  laws  and  customs,  and  the  character  of  its  warlike  inhabitants,  is  very 
agreeable  and  instructive  reading.  A  separate  chapter,  not  the  least  entertaining 
in  the  book,  is  devoted  to  anecdotes  of  the  Nepaulese  mission,  of  whom,  and  of 
their  visit  to  Europe,  many  remarkable  stories  are  told." — Post. 


CANADA  AS   IT  AVAS,  IS,  AND  MAY  BE. 

By  the  late  Lieutenant-Colonel  Sir  R.  Boxnycastle. 

With  an  Account  of  Recent  Transactions, 

BY   SIR  J.  E.  ALEXANDER,  K.L.S.,  &c.    2  v.  with  Maps,  &c.  21s. 

"  These  volumes  offer  to  the  British  public  a  clear  and  trustworthy  statement 
of  the  affairs  of  Canada,  and  the  eff'ects  of  the  immense  public  works  in  progress 
and  completed ;  with  sketches  of  locahties  and  scenery,  amusing  anecdotes  of 
personal  observation,  and  generally  every  information  which  may  be  of  use  to  the 
traveller  or  settler,  and  the  military  and  political  reader.  The  information  ren- 
dered is  to  be  thoroughly  relied  on  as  veracious,  full,  and  conclusive." — Mes- 
senger. 

FIVE   YEARS   IN   THE  WEST   INDIES. 

BY    CHARLES    'W.    DAY,    ESQ.     2  vols.  21s. 

"  It  would  be  unjust  to  deny  the  vigour,  brilliancy,  and  varied  interest  of  this 
work,  the  abundant  stores  of  anecdote  and  interest,  and  the  copious  detail  of 
local  habits  and  pecuharities  in  each  island  visited  in  succession." — Globe. 


SCENES    FROM    SCRIPTURE. 

BY    THE    REV.    G.    CROLY,    LL.D.     10s.  6d. 

"  Eminent  in  every  mode  of  literature.  Dr.  Croly  stands,  in  our  judgment,  first 
among  the  living  poets  of  Great  Britain — the  only  man  of  our  day  entitled  by  his 
power  to  venture  within  the  sacred  circle  of  religious  poets." — Standard. 

"An  admirable  addition  to  the  library  of  religious  families." — John  Bult. 


THE  AUTOBIOGRAPHY  OF  A  MISSIONARY. 

BY    THE    REV.    J.    P.    FLETCHER, 

Curate  of  South  Ilampstead.     Author  of  "A  Residence  at  Nineveh."     2  v.  21s. 

"  A  gra))hic  sketch  of  missionary  life." — Examiner. 

"  We  conscientiously  recommend  this  book,  as  well  for  its  amusing  character 
as  for  the  spirit  it  displays  of  earnest  piety." — Standard. 


HURST    AND    BLACKETT's    NEW    PUBLICATIONS.  19 


FAMILY    ROMANCE; 

OR,  DOxMESTIC  ANNALS  OF  THE  ARISTOCRACY. 
BY  J.  B.  BURKE,  ESQ,.,  Author  of  "  The  Peerage,"  &c.     2  v.,  21s 

Among  the  many  other  interesting  Ifgends  and  romantic  family  histories  com. 
prised  in  these  voliinies,  will  be  foniid  the  following:— The  wonderfnl  narrativ* 
of  Maria  Stella,  Lady  Newborongh,  who  claimed  on  such  strong  evidence  to  be  i 
Princess  of  the  House  of  Orleans,  and  disputed  the  identity  of  Louis  Philippe— 
The  story  of  the  humble  marriage  of  the  beautiful  Countess  of  Strathmore,  anc 
the  sufferings  and  fate  of  her  only  cliild — The  Leaders  of  Fashion,  from  Gramon 
to  D'Orsay — Tlie  rise  of  the  celebrated  Baron  Ward,  now  Prime  Minister  a 
Parma — The  curious  claim  to  the  Earldom  of  Crawford— The  Strange  Vicissitude; 
of  our  Great  Families,  replete  with  the  most  romantic  details — The  story  of  thi 
Kirkpatriclcs  of  Cioseburn  (the  ancestors  of  the  French  Empress),  and  the  re 
markable  tradition  associated  with  them — Tiie  Legend  of  the  Lambtons — Thi 
verification  in  our  own  time  of  the  famous  prediction  as  to  the  Earls  of  Mar- 
Lady  Ogilvy's  escape — The  Bereslord  and  Wynyard  ghost  stories,  correctly  told— 
&c.,  &c. 

"  It  were  impossible  to  praise  too  highly  as  a  work  of  amusement  these  two  mos 
interesting  volumes,  whether  we  should  have  regard  to  its  excellent  i)lan  or  it 
not  less  excellent  execution.  The  volumes  are  just  what  ought  to  be  found  oi 
every  drawing-room  table.  Here  you  have  nearly  fifty  captivating  romances,  witl 
the  pith  of  all  their  interest  preserved  in  undiminished  poignancy,  and  any  on 
may  be  read  in  half  an  hour.  It  is  not  the  least  of  their  merits  that  th 
romances  are  founded  on  fact — or  what,  at  least,  has  been  handed  down  for  trutl 
by  long  tradition — and  the  romance  of  reality  far  exceeds  the  romance  of  fictior 
Each  story  is  told  in  the  clear,  unaffected  style  with  which  the  author's  forme 
works  have  made  the  public  familiar,  while  they  afford  evidence  of  the  valuf 
even  to  a  work  of  amusement,  of  that  historical  and  genealogical  learning  tha 
may  justly  be  expected  of  the  author  of  'The  Peerage.'  The  aristocracy  an 
gentry  owe,  indeed,  a  great  debt  to  Mr.  Burke  as  their  family  historian."- 
Stmu/ard. 

"  The  very  reading  for  sea-side  or  fire-side  in  our  hours  of  idleness." — Atht 
noRum. 


SPAIN     AS     IT     IS. 

BY     G.     A.     HOSKINS,    ESQ,.       2   vols.   21s. 

"To  the  tourist  this  work  will  prove  invaluable.     It  is  the  most  complete  an 
interesting  portraiture  of  Spain  that  has  ever  come  under  our  notice." — John  Bui 


NAVAL   ARCHITECTURE: 

A   TREATISE    ON    SHIP-BUILDING,   AND    THE    RIG    OF   CLIPPER! 

WITH   SUGGESTIONS   FOR  A  NEW   METHOD  OF  LAYING   DOWN  VESSELS. 

BY   LOBD    BOBERT    MONTAGU,   A.M. 

Second  Edition,  with  54  Diagrams.     6s. 

"  Lord  Montagu's  work  will  be  equally  valuable  to  the  ship-builder  and  tl 
ship-owner — to  the  mariner  and  the  commander  of  yachts." — U.  S.  Magazine. 


0  HURST    AND    BLACKETT  S    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 

SAM    SLICK'S   WISE   SAWS 
AND  MODERN  INSTANCES; 

OR,  WHAT  HE   SAID,  DID,  OR  INVENTED. 

Second  Edition.  2  vols,  post  8vo.  21s. 

"  We  do  not  fear  to  predict  that  these  delightful  volumes  will  be  the  most 
)pular,  as,  beyond  doubt,  they  are  the  best  of  all  Judge  Haliburton's  admirable 
orks.  The  '  Wise  Saws  and  Modern  Instances'  evince  powers  of  imagination 
id  expression  far  beyond  what  even  his  former  publications  could  lead  any  one 

1  ascribe  to  the  author.  We  have,  it  is  true,  long  been  famdiar  with  his  quaint 
jmour  and  racy  narrative,  but  the  volumes  before  us  take  a  loftier  range,  and 
e  so  rich  in  fun  and  good  sense,  that  to  offer  an  extract  as  a  sample  would  be 
1  injustice  to  author  and  reader.  It  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  books  we  ever 
ad,  and  we  earnestly  recorrruiend  it." — Standard. 

"  Let  Sam  Slick  go  a  mackarel  fishing,  or  to  court  in  England — let  him  venture 
one  among  a  tribe  of  the  sauciest  single  women  that  ever  banded  themselves 
gether  in  electric  chain  to  turn  tables  or  to  mystify  man — our  hero  always 
anages  to  come  otf  with  iiying  colours — to  beat  every  craftsman  in  the  cunning 
■  his  own  calling — to  get  at  the  heart  of  every  maid's  and  matron's  secret, 
he  book  before  us  will  be  read  and  laughed  over.  Its  quaint  and  racy  dialect 
ill  please  some  readers— its  abundance  of  yarns  will  amuse  others.  There  is 
•mething  in  the  volumes  to  suit  readers  of  every  humour." — AthencEum. 

"  The  humour  of  Sam  Slick  is  inexhaustible.  He  is  ever  and  everywhere  a 
elcome  visitor;  smiles  greet  his  approach,  and  wit  and  wisdom  hang  upon  his 
mgue.  The  present  is  altogether  a  most  edifying  production,  remarkable  alike 
ir  its  racy  humour,  its  sound  philosophy,  the  felicity  of  its  illustrations,  and  the 
jlicacy  of  its  satiie.  Whether  he  is  making  lova  to  Sophy,  or  chatting  with  the 
resident  about  English  men  and  manners,  or  telling  ghost  stories,  or  indulging  in 
ly-dreams,  or  sketching  the  characters  of  Yankee  skippers,  or  poaching  in  our 
iheries,  or  enticing  a  British  man-of-war  on  to  a  sand-bar,  he  is  equally  delightful ; 
larming  us  by  the  graphic  vivacity  and  picturesque  quaiutness  of  his  descriptions, 
id,  above  all,  by  his  straightforward  honesty  and  truth.  We  promise  our 
;aders  a  great  treat  from  the  perusal  of  these  '  Wise  Saws  and  ^Modern  Instances,' 
hich  contain  a  world  of  practical  wisdom,  and  a  treasury  of  the  richest  fun." — 
forning  Post. 

"  As  a  work  embodying  the  cynicism  of  Rochefoucanlt,  with  the  acuteness  of 
ascal,  and  the  experience  of  Theophrastus  or  La  Bruycre,  it  may  be  said  that, 
ccept  Don  Quixote,  the  present  work  has  no  rival." — Observer. 


TRAITS  OE  AMERICAN  HUMOUR. 

EDITED  BY  THE  AUTHOB.  OP  "  SAM  SLICK."    3  vols.  31s.  Gd. 

"We  have  seldom  met  with  a  work  niore  rich  in  fun  or  more  generally 
eliglitful." — Standard. 

"  No  man  has  done  more  than  the  facetious  Judge  Ilaliburton,  through  the 
loutli  of  the  iiiimilable  '  Sam,' to  m;tke  the  old  parent  country  recognise  and 
ijireciate  tier  (piccr  transatlantic  jirngeny.  His  present  collection  of  comic 
ories  and  laughable  traits  is  a  budget  of  fun  full  of  rich  specimens  of  American 
umour." —  Globe. 


WORKS   OF    FICTION.  21 


THE      ROSES. 


BY    THE    AUTHOR    OF 

"  THE  HISTORY  OF  A  FLIBT,"  &c.    3  vols, 

"  The  author  of  '  The  Flirt'  is  ever  welcome  as  a  writer.  '  The  Roses'  is  a 
novel  which  cannot  fail  to  cliarin.'' — Observer. 

"  '  The  Roses'  displays,  with  the  polish  always  attending  a  later  work,  all  th€ 
talent  which  appeared  in  '  The  Flirt,"  and  '  Tlie  Manoeuvring  Mother.'  It  is  a 
book  which  no  one  would  lay  down  unfinished." — Standard. 

"  In  this  charming  novel  the  author  has  brought  out  the  female  character  in 
three  well-chosen  contrasts.  The  whole  tale  is  a  history  of  sweet  and  tendei 
hearts  to  which  the  reader  cannot  refuse  his  sympathy." — Jokti  Bull. 


ELECTRA :  A  STORY  OE  MODERN  TIMES. 

BY     THE     AUTHOR     OP     "ROCKINGHAM." 

WITH    ILLUSTRATIONS    BY  LORD    GERALD   FITZGERALD.      SECOND    EDITION.     3  V 

From  the  Times. — "  The  author  of  '  Rockingham'  holds  always  a  vigorous 
pen.  It  is  imi)ossible  to  deny  him  the  hapjjy  faculty  of  telling  a  pleasing  storj 
with  ability  and  power.  His  characters  are  the  flesh  and  blood  we  meet  in  oui 
daily  walks;  their  language  is  natural,  appropriate,  and  to  the  purpose.  Wean 
bound  to  extend  our  highest  praise  to  the  skill  with  which  the  several  characteri 
in  '  Electra'  are  pourtrayed,  and  with  which  the  interest  of  the  story  is  sustainec 
to  the  very  last  chapter.  Lady  Glenarlowe  and  her  daughter,  Lord  Glenarlow( 
and  Electra,  are  all  finely-drawn  pictures,  and  are  full  of  touches  by  a  maste 
hand.  We  know  not  when  we  have  seen  more  exquisite  painting  than  in  th< 
character  of  Electra,  or  more  convincing  evidence  of  the  knowledge  of  humai 
nature,  in  its  subtlest  as  weU  as  most  prominent  features,  than  is  revealed  in  thi 
■«"idely-distiact  characters  of  Lady  Glenarlowe  and  her  stepson." 

AILTEFORT):    A  EAMILY  HISTORY. 

BY  THE   AUTHOR   OP    "  JOH]>T   DBAYTOIxT."  3  v. 
"  A  work  abounding  in  fascination  of  an  irresistible  kind." — Observer. 
"A  delightful  tale — full  of  affecting  incident." — Standard. 
"  A  most  charming  and  absorbing  story." — Critic. 
"  The  book  throughout  excites  the  interest  of  reality." — Spectator. 
"  '  Aiheford'  is  the  biography  of  the  clever  writer  of  '  John  Drayton.'     It  i 
a  deeply  interesting  tale." — Britannia. 


CHARLES    AUCHESTER. 

DEDICATED  TO  THE  RIGHT  HON.  B.  DISRAELI.      3  VOls. 

"  The  author  has  originality  and  a  strong  imagination." — Times. 

"  Music  has  never  had  so  glowing  an  advocate  as  the  author  of  these  volumes 
There  is  an  amazing  deal  of  ability  displayed  in  them." — Herald. 

"  The  life  of  an  enthusiast  in  music,  hy  himself.  The  work  is  full  of  talent 
The  sketches  of  the  masters  and  artists  ai'e  life-like.  In  Seraphael  all  will  recog 
nize  .\Jendelssohn,  and  in  Miss  Benette,  Miss  Lawrence,  and  Anastase,  Berlioz 
Jenny  Lind,  and  another  well-known  to  artist  life,  will  be  easily  detected.  T( 
every  one  who  cares  for  music,  the  volumes  will  prove  a  delightful  study."— 
Britan7iia. 


22         HURST   ANO    BLACKETT's    NEW    PUBLICATIONS. 


H  A  E  E  Y     M  U  I  E; 

A     STORY     OF     SCOTTISH     LIPE. 

BY    THE    AUTHOR    OF    "MAEOARET   MAITLAND." 
Second  Edition.     3  vols,  post  8vo. 

"We  prefer  ' Harry  Muir'  to  most  of  the  Scottish  novels  that  have  appeared 
since  Gait's  domestic  stories.  This  new  tale,  by  the  author  of  '  Margaret  Maitland,' 
is  a  real  picture  of  the  weakness  of  man's  nature  and  the  depths  of  woman's  kind- 
ness. The  narrative,  to  repeat  our  praise,  is  not  one  to  be  entered  on  or  parted 
from  without  our  regard  for  its  writer  being  increased." — AthencEum. 

"  A  picture  of  life,  everywhere  genuine  in  feeling,  perfect  in  expression." — 
Examiner. 

"  This  is  incomparably  the  best  of  the  author's  works.  In  it  the  brilliant 
promise  afforded  by  '  Margaret  Maitland'  has  been  fully  realised,  and  now  there 
can  be  no  question  that,  for  graphic  pictures  of  Scottish  life,  the  author  is 
entitled  to  be  ranked  second  to  none  among  modern  writers  of  fiction." — Cale- 
donian  Mercury. 

BY   THE   SA:ME   AUTHOR. 

ADAM    GEAEME 
OF  MOSSGRAY. 


Second  Edition.     3  vols. 

"  A  story  awakening  genuine  emotions  of 
interest  and  delight  by  its  admirable  pictures 
of  Scottish  life  and  scenery." — Post. 


CALEB  FIELD. 

A  TALE    OF  THE    PURITANS. 

Cheaper  Edition.  1  v.  6s. 

"  This  beautiful  production  is  every  way 
worthy  of  its  author's  reputation  in  the 
very  tirst  rank  of  contemporary  writers." — 
Standard. 


DAEIEN;    OE,  THE  MEECHANT  PEINCE. 

BY  ELIOT    ■WARBUETOIsr,     Second  Edition.   3  vols. 

"  The  scheme  for  the  colonization  of  Darien  by  Scotchmen,  and  the  opening 
of  a  communication  between  the  East  and  West  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama, 
furnishes  the  foundation  of  this  story,  which  is  in  all  respects  worthy  of  the 
high  reputation  which  the  author  of  the  '  Crescent  and  the  Cross'  had  already 
made  for  himself.  The  early  history  of  the  IMerchant  Prince  introduces  the 
reader  to  the  condition  of  Spain  under  the  Inquisition;  the  portraitures  of 
Scottish  life  which  occupy  a  prominent  place  in  the  narrative,  are  full  of  spirit ; 
the  scenes  in  America  exhibit  the  state  of  the  natives  of  the  new  world  at  that 
period ;  the  daring  deeds  of  the  Buccaneers  supply  a  most  romantic  element  in 
the  story ;  and  an  additional  interest  is  infused  into  it  by  the  introduction  of 
various  celebrated  characters  of  the  period,  such  as  Law,  the  French  financier, 
and  Paterson,  the  founder  of  the  Bank  of  England.  All  these  varied  ingredients 
are  treated  with  that  brilliancy  of  style  and  powerful  descriptive  talent,  by  which 
the  pen  of  Eliot  Warburton  was  so  eminently  distinguished." — John  Bull. 


THE   EIEST    LIEUTENANT'S    STOEY. 

BY   LADY   CATHARINE   LONG.      3  vols. 

"  As  a  tracing  of  tlie  workings  of  human  passion  and  principle,  the  book  is  full 
of  exquisite  beauty,  delicacy,  and  tenderness." — Daily  News. 


WORKS    OF   FICTION. 


23 


HIGH  AND  LOW; 

OR,  LIFE'S  CHANCES  AND  CHANGES. 
BY  THE  HON.  HENRY  COKE.  3  v- 

THE  YOUNG  HEIRESS. 

BY  MRS.  TROLLOPE.     3  v. 

"  The  best  of  Mrs.  TioUope's  novels."— 
Stand'ird. 

"  The  knowledge  of  the  world  which  Mrs. 
TroUope  possesses  in  so  eminent  a  degree  is 
strongly  exliibited  in  the  pages  of  this 
novel." — Obserrer. 

The  DEAN'S  DAUGHTER, 

OR,  THE    DAYS   WE    LIVE  IN. 

BY  MRS.  GORE.  3  v. 

"  One  of  the  best  of  Mrs  Gore's  stories. 
The  volumes  are  strewed  with  smart  and 
sparkling  epigram." — Morning  Chronicle. 

CASTLE    AVON. 

By  the  Author  of 
"  EMILIA  WYNDHAM,"  &c.  3  v. 

•"  Castle  Avon' is,  in  our  judgment,  one  of 
the  most  successful  of  the  author's  works." 
—Pout. 

LADY    MARION. 

BY  MRS.  W.  FOSTER.  3  v. 

"This  fascinating  novel  needs  not  the 
attraction  of  the  name  of  the  late  Duke  of 
Wellii'gton's  niece  upon  the  title-page  to 
commend  it  to  tlie  novel  readers  of  the 
fashionable  world.  The  work  gives  evidence 
of  talent  of  no  common  order." — John  Dull, 

THE     LONGWOODS 
OF   THE   GRANGE. 


By  the  Author  of 
ADELAIDE  LINDSAY." 


3  V. 


"  'The  Longwoods'  are  a  family  eroup,  in 
the  story  of  whose  life  romance  readers  will 
find  a  charm  and  an  interest  similar  to  that 
which  attends  the  annals  of  the  '  Vicar  of 
Wakefield.'  "—Daily  News. 


UNCLE    WALTER. 

BY  MRS.  TROLLOPE,  3  v, 

'"  Uncle  Walter'  is  an  exceedingly  enter- 
taining novel.  It  assures  Mrs.  TroUope  more 
than  ever  in  her  position  as  one  of  the  ablest 
fiction  writers  of  the  day." — Morning  Post. 


THE  KINNEARS. 

A   SCOTTISH    STORY.     3  v. 

"  We  heartily  commend  this  story  to  the 
attention  of  our  readers  for  its  power,  sim- 
plicity, and  truth.  None  can  read  its  impres- 
sive record  without  interest,  and  few  without 
improvement."— Jl/or/ii'ng'  Post. 

BROOMHILL ; 

OR,   THE    COUNTY    BEAUTIES. 

"  '  Broomhiir  is  a  tale  of  life  in  polite 
society.  The  dialogue  is  easy— the  interest 
is  well  sustained." — Athenceum. 

MARY  SEAHAM. 
BY  MRS.  GREY, 

Author  of  "  The  Gambler's  Wife."  3  v. 

"  Equal  to  any  former  novel  by  its  author." 
— Athencbiim. 

"An  admirable  work — a  powerfully  con- 
ceived novel,  founded  on  a  plot  of  high 
moral  and  dramatic  interest." — John  Bull. 

ANNETTE.  A  Tale. 
BY  W.  F.  DEACON. 
With  a  Memoir  of  the  Author,  by  the 
Hon.  Sir  T.  N.  Talfourd,  D.C.L.  3  v. 
"'Annette'  is  a  stirring  tale,  and  has 
enough  in  it  of  life  and  interest  to  keep  it 
for  some  years  to  tome  in  request.  The 
prefatory  memoir  by  Sir  Thomas  Talfourd 
would  be  at  all  times  interesting,  nor  the  less 
so  for  containing  two  long  letters  from  Sir 
Walter  Scott  to  Mr.  Deacon,  full  of  gentle 
fai--thinking  wisdom.'"— Examiner. 

CONFESSIONS  OF  AN 

ETONIAN. 

BY   C.    ROWCROFT,    ESQ.    3  v. 

"The  life  of  an  Etonian — his  pranks,  his 
follies,  his  loves,  his  fortunes,  and  misfor- 
tunes— is  here  amusingly  drawn  and  happily 
coloured  by  an  accomplished  artist.  The 
work  is  full  of  anecdote  and  lively  painting 
of  men  and  manners." — Globe. 

THE  BELLE  OF  THE 
VILLAGE. 

By  the  Author  of 
"  The  Old  English  Gentleman."   3  v. 

"  An  admirable  story.  It  may  take  its 
place  by  the  side  of  'The  Old  English  Gen- 
tleman.'"— John  Bull. 

The  LADY  and^the  PRIEST. 
BY  MRS.  MABERLY.    3  v. 


THE    ARMY   AND    WAVY. 


L 


Published  on  the  1st  of  every  Month,  Price  3s.  6d. 

COLBURN'S  UNITED  SERVICE  MAGAZLV 

AND 

NAVAL  AND  MILITARY  JOURNAL. 


\ 


This  popular  periodical,  which  has  now  been  established  a  quarter  ( 
a  century,  embraces  subjects  of  such  extensive  variety  and  powerfi 
interest  as  must  render  it  scarcely  less  acceptable  to  readers  in  gener 
than  to  the  members  of  those  professions  for  whose  use  it  is  more  pa 
ticularly  intended.  Independently  of  a  succession  of  Original  Pape 
on  innumerable  interesting  subjects.  Personal  Narratives,  Historic 
Incidents,  Correspondence,  &c.,  each  number  comprises  Biographic 
Memoirs  of  Eminent  Officers  of  all  branches  of  service.  Reviews  of  Ne 
Publications,  either  immediately  relating  to  the  Army  or  Navy,  or  i 
volving  subjects  of  utility  or  interest  to  the  members  of  either.  Ft 
Reports  of  Trials  by  Courts  Martial,  Distribution  of  the  Army  and  Nav 
General  Orders,  Circulars,  Promotions,  Appointments,  Births,  Marriage 
Obituary,  &c.,  with  all  the  Naval  and  Mihtary  Intelligence  of  the  Moni 


"  This  is  confessedly  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  attractive  periodicals  of  wh 
the  British  press  can  boast,  presenting  a  wide  field  of  entertainment  to  i 
general  as  well  as  professional  reader.  The  suggestions  for  the  benefit  of 
two  services  are  distuiguished  by  vigour  of  sense,  acute  and  practical  observati 
an  ardent  love  of  discipline,  tempered  by  a  high  sense  of  justice,  honour,  an 
tender  regard  for  the  welfare  and  comfort  of  our  soldiers  and  seamen." — Glob. 

"  At  the  head  of  those  periodicals  which  furnish  useful  and  valuable  informat 
to  their  peculiar  classes  of  readers,  as  well  as  amusement  to  the  general  bod} 
the  public,  must  be  placed  the  '  United  Service  ^lagazine,  and  Naval  and  Miht 
Journal.'  It  nunabers  among  its  contributors  almost  all  those  gallant  spirits  ■n 
have  done  no  less  honour  to  their  country  by  their  swords  than  by  their  p 
and  abounds  with  the  most  interesting  discussions  on  naval  and  military  aff; 
and  stirring  narratives  of  deeds  of  arms  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Every  infor 
tion  of  value  and  interest  to  both  the  Services  is  culled  with  the  greatest  dilige 
from  every  available  source,  and  the  correspondence  of  various  distingui^ 
officers  which  enrich  its  pages  is  a  feature  of  great  attraction.  In  short, 
'  United  Service  Magazine'  can  be  recommended  to  every  reader  who  posse 
that  attachment  to  his  country  which  should  make  him  look  with  the  dee 
interest  on  its  naval  and  military  resources." — Sun. 

"  This  truly  national  periodical  is  always  full  of  the  most  valuable  matte  r 
professional  men." — Morning  Herald. 

HUEST   AND   BLACKETT,   PUBLISHERS, 

SUCCESSORS  TO  HENRY  COLBURN,  t;>  uj 

13,    GREAT    MARLBOROUGH     STREET.    I 


OR,  I 
BY  ■ 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

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